WTK - recommended oil for 4B11 engine

[acmilan11]

yea fellarz, wud like to know watz the best oil to use on the 4B11 engine? thanks

[Messi]

You refeering to the Evo X engine?

[acmilan11]

^^^no the non turbo one,,like the ones that comes in the gt lancer

[venum]

Amsoil

Mobil 1

DM using Total - not a bad oil

I would even say Shell Helix Ultra

what grade does the owners manual specify

thing about oil is that one or two oil changes using a particular oil doesn't do much for your engine

you need to be using a particular oil over a long term for it to have any effect on your engine

this way your engines benefits from the effects of teh additives for a prolonged time

kinda like taking multivitamins everyday instead of only when you getting sick, or now coming down with something

so pick a good oil (0ne that you can have a reliable supply of) and stick to it

[Alpha_2nr]

^^So why not GTX @ the required viscosity?

[Rooki3]

use what ever yur service manual recommends

[venum]

^^So why not GTX @ the required viscosity?

on a new model engine like that , I would only use synthetic, in teh right viscosity

because of the additives and because it is a better oil than mineral

whoever has a different opinion about synthetic vs mineral can just keep it

does GTX have a synthetic offering

[Alpha_2nr]

^^So why not GTX @ the required viscosity?

on a new model engine like that , I would only use synthetic, in teh right viscosity

because of the additives and because it is a better oil than mineral

Why would you use a synthetic oil in that engine? Why not recommend Motul then, as it's rated as being better than most synths out there?

What additives are you referring to also? Also, do you think that a non-highly strung engine of that Lancer's nature can have NOTICEABLE benefits from a synth oil, as opposed to a well made mineral oil?

Lastly, does the owner's manual specifically call for synthetic oil? AFAIK, once the oil meets the req'd API specifications (SL/SM etc), the oil will do what it's supposed to in terms of oxidation resistance and other properties. The added "additives" you're referring to with synthetics help withstand shear loss and breakdown over extended mileage, but will not provide much benefits to an engine of this nature other than that....and even that "extended mileage" factor is a moot point if you choose to run the OE change interval - which is a good choice IMHO.

My 2c. - stick to the OE change interval, and use a mineral/blend/whatever-fits-your-budget oil IMHO. Don't waste money on something uber-expensive that isn't going to provide tangible benefits, long or short term.

Keeping in mind that your "suggested" oils like Mobil 1 still aren't true synthetics (only a Group 3 basestock AFAIK).

whoever has a different opinion about synthetic vs mineral can just keep it

does GTX have a synthetic offering

It's just a case of people buying the most expensive oil they can thinking that they're doing some good.....like when folks put in AMSOIL Series 2000 racing oil and a K&N drop in filter in their Almera/B15/Corolla and state how faster and smoooooooother it feels

The only way you can determine which oil is BEST for your application, is by running some spent oil analyses (which used to be done locally btw) - and comparing which yields a noticeabel change in wear metals and loss of visc.

Since no one does that, then everyone falls prey to marketing strategy.

Me personally, I would have used Castrol GTX bar none in most N/A cars on our markets, especially if it isn't a high revving engine, and there's been no evidence (oil analysis not withstanding) that has made me change that stance thus far. For the WRX, I'm on Castrol Syntec at the moment (may switch back to Royal Purple), for the sheer reason that the turbo uses oil cooling (water too actually)......and mineral oils can burn off a tad in these cars, as they don't seem to hold up as well in turbocharged Subaru apps. Keep in mind the OE manual for the WRX doesn't call for a synthetic oil either.

[JUS4SHO]

my experience with mitsubishi engines i only use shell, DM made the mistake and used total in my car and the engine was slugish and very noisy. the shell ultra 5w-40 is best for the 4b11, if you look at your owners manual this covers the widest spectrum of the heat ranges.
ran shell in my CB lancer no issues
ran shell in my CK lancer 100K+ no issues took the cover off to change seals engive was gunk free and no no tarnish or brown spots plus only oil to keep the lifter noise down
running shell in my CS lancer 97K+ no issues took the top off recently t change plug seal engine looked like new, shinny and clean.
running shell in my CY 36K+... no issues todate

[venum]

Why would you use a synthetic oil in that engine? Why not recommend Motul then, as it's rated as being better than most synths out there?

Why not run a synthetic oil

I will not recommend Motul primarily because of availability. In my reply I outlined my strategy for gaining the benefits of an oil - use a good oil regularly so that it's effects and benefits can be realized in the long term life of the engine. To do this you need an oil that is readily available such that it can be used every oil change. Motul is not readily available and thus cannot be used regularly. by readily available I mean you can find it in almost any parts place across teh country - like Shell and Mobil and Castrol

What additives are you referring to also? Also, do you think that a non-highly strung engine of that Lancer's nature can have NOTICEABLE benefits from a synth oil, as opposed to a well made mineral oil?

Yes - a non-highly strung engine of that Lancer's nature can have NOTICEABLE benefits from a synth oil

highly strung engines are not the only engines that can benefit from synthetic oil

teh additives taht I am speaking about are teh detergents and chemicals that treat with sludge and carbon buildup

Lastly, does the owner's manual specifically call for synthetic oil? AFAIK, once the oil meets the req'd API specifications (SL/SM etc), the oil will do what it's supposed to in terms of oxidation resistance and other properties. The added "additives" you're referring to with synthetics help withstand shear loss and breakdown over extended mileage, but will not provide much benefits to an engine of this nature other than that....

the specification that teh owners manual states should be used. the oil will be able to stand the stress of teh engine, but additives do more than just make teh oil resilient to the engine's stress, they clean teh engine and protect engine components such as seals

also, keep in mind that teh fuel that we get isn't exactly teh best and as a result the combustion of poor grade fuel will introduce contaminants in the engine, that you will need some cleaning agents for - case in point - local diesel fuel vs European diesel (we taling about gas, but the same applies, just not as grand a scale)

and yes they WILL provide much benefit to teh engine by dealing with sludge and carbon as well as protecting teh components

and even that "extended mileage" factor is a moot point if you choose to run the OE change interval - which is a good choice IMHO.

stick to OE change intervals, but if the chosen oil's properties is must be capable of providing protection for that interval.

My 2c. - stick to the OE change interval, and use a mineral/blend/whatever-fits-your-budget oil IMHO. Don't waste money on something uber-expensive that isn't going to provide tangible benefits, long or short term.

you are entitled to your 2c, so share it freely

the additional money spent on synthetic oil is not a waste, it is a benefit to your engine.

it will be a waste if you change it prematurely - before it's capabilities are expended

budget should be observed, but if your pocket slim you can't just buy the wrong oil because that is what you can afford - it will be to teh detriment of teh engine

It's just a case of people buying the most expensive oil they can thinking that they're doing some good.....like when folks put in AMSOIL Series 2000 racing oil and a K&N drop in filter in their Almera/B15/Corolla and state how faster and smoooooooother it feels

no it's not a case of people buying the most expensive oil they can thinking that they're doing some good - the more expensive, better oil is serving a purpose

putting racing oil in a stock street car is a waste because the oil is then mismatched for teh application, but using synth oil in a stock N/A engine isn't a mis-matched application

a mis-matched application is outting Castrol GT-X in a diesel engine

using Mobil1 synth in a 30 year old 120Y engine may not be the best oil for that engine even if it meets the factory specs

The only way you can determine which oil is BEST for your application, is by running some spent oil analyses (which used to be done locally btw) - and comparing which yields a noticeabel change in wear metals and loss of visc.

Since no one does that, then everyone falls prey to marketing strategy.

Agreed - Shell Blending Plant in Pt. Lisas does oil analysis, not sure if they do it for small jobs liek car engines, mostly on a contractual basis

falling prey to a marketing strategy - no

Me personally, I would have used Castrol GTX bar none in most N/A cars on our markets, especially if it isn't a high revving engine, and there's been no evidence (oil analysis not withstanding)

as they don't seem to hold up as well in turbocharged Subaru apps. Keep in mind the OE manual for the WRX doesn't call for a synthetic oil either.

because it is not a high revving engines does not discount it from being benefitted from a synth oil - my point is that N/A engines stand to benefit from synth oils just as much as turbo ones

my experience with Mitsubishi engines and oil is similar to JUS4SHO

with both gas and diesel engines

[Alpha_2nr]

^^we will agree, to disagree on some points perhaps. But duly noted.

Also:

Agreed - Shell Blending Plant in Pt. Lisas does oil analysis, not sure if they do it for small jobs liek car engines, mostly on a contractual basis

falling prey to a marketing strategy - no

Mora Oil Laboratories did these (St. Aug I believe) at least up to two years ago. Pretty nice stuff, similar to what you see from the vaulted Blackstone Labs in the US.

also, keep in mind that teh fuel that we get isn't exactly teh best and as a result the combustion of poor grade fuel will introduce contaminants in the engine, that you will need some cleaning agents for - case in point - local diesel fuel vs European diesel (we taling about gas, but the same applies, just not as grand a scale)

I'll take a stab at this though - WHAT contaminants exactly?

I trust you're referring to sediments/water content/ that kinda jazz? If so...yeah I hear ya! If you're talking about octane though....then.....

......the gas we make is ALWAYS up to international standards (it's tested by local and foreign inspectors), and considering the bulk of Trini's gas make goes to export, the entire blended gasoline pool has to meet int'l stds (e.g. Benzene content, sulphur content, water content). In terms of octane, this is especially pertinent considering more often than not, blends leaving the bond for local use (premium) are actually a few counts over the 95 RON mark, and can never be under (or it's dumped to lower octane blending).

For the sediments and that kinda stuff....well jed....blame yuh friendly local gas station for that e.g. Me complaining to a nearby Uneee<cough> station about the premium having a slight "pinkish" tinge to it (my car was pulling timing - went back, put some in a bottle and wah-lah!)

Diesel on the other hand.....that's another kettle of fish.

it will be a waste if you change it prematurely - before it's capabilities are expended

What IS premature then? Before the OE req'd interval? Or the suggested interval for the oil in question?

Take me for example, I used RP in the Swift Sport consisently after the first 1000 km (initial change done by me, not the firm). They purport that you can run for extended mileage (well at least they used to), but I stuck to the 7500 km severe condition interval regardless.

Keep in mind that in many cars nowadays, 5000 km oil changes seem to have been replaced by longer 7000-10000 km recommended oil change....If that's the case, then using a synth oil to go past that (even if the documentation says it can) seems a bit sketchy to me, and comes down to believing product hype to a point IMHO. In terms of change interval, I'd rather be "premature" and follow the OE recommendation for a specific car, rather than a blanket statement by an oil man'fr about their oil.

Again, my 2c.

[illumin@ti]

ah bumpin dis >>> good non bs info here ,,, ah feel it should be edited and stickied too yes ,, "all about oil"