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D15B OIL?

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JDM_GUY
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D15B OIL?

Postby JDM_GUY » April 18th, 2010, 10:45 pm

My engine has about 75000 Kms, I have been using the Castrol GTX 20w50 and changing every 3 months or 4500KM.

I do however fine after the first 2000 km the car doesn't rev fast as it did when the oil was firstly change.

Some of my friends use Royal Purple Synthetic Oil 20w50 and they say it performs very good, the RPMs go up quickly and the car idles very smooth.

Would Quaker State 20w50 non-syn be better than the Castrol GTX?

What are some good oils and their body to run on my old engine?

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Postby embryo » April 18th, 2010, 11:06 pm

i use the quaker state an have no probs......but the oil type depends on the type of driving u do. if u drive hard all the time you would need synthetic oil that can take the jamming like the royal purple, but if is small runs that not puttin the engine under un due stress, and you changing oil on time then the quaker state( jus my opinion not a statistical fact) is sufficient.

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Postby NY4PD » April 19th, 2010, 6:59 am

Use the Castrol GTX as you been using just use the 10/40 instead of the 20/50 which is only for the high mileage cars.

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Postby JDM_GUY » April 19th, 2010, 9:00 am

NY4PD,I will look for the 10/40. embryo,thanks for the advice, I don't drive hard all the time, but do sprint most times.

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Postby ek4ever » April 19th, 2010, 11:59 am

if you change to a full synthetic you will find that your engine will perform better, rev faster, run cooler, etc. Remember synthetics have very high detergent packages so it will clean out alot of the deposits in your engine formed as a result of using dino-oil.

Secondly, synthetics maintain their viscosity characteristics much better that dino-oils and because of their smaller molecular size can lubricate places which dino-oil has a hard time getting at. They also have superior sheer strength than conventional oils.

And finally synthetics do not produce as much deposits or varnish on engine parts another great advantage .... you entire engine will be a lot cleaner (to check this put some conventional oil in a beaker and place on a stove....you'll see how black and thick it will become....then try it with a synthetic...you'll probably not see any change to the syn.) Now think of this happening in your engine :shock:

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Postby JDM_GUY » April 19th, 2010, 1:04 pm

ek4ever,Nice read. Will consider the syn when I get the rebuild

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Postby TK! » April 22nd, 2010, 5:26 pm

honda oil.


full stop.

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Postby r3iXmann » April 22nd, 2010, 5:32 pm

or shell helix :mrgreen:

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Postby chris1388 » April 22nd, 2010, 5:43 pm

you can try amsoil or this new oil from japan eneos....i hear it works really well

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Postby CD4Accord » April 22nd, 2010, 6:07 pm

TK, i agree with your supporting honda coolant, or trans fluid etc.. But honda oil man? You pushing it too far now...

Why the hell would I pay so much for rebranded mobil that its a grey bottle saying honda? Explain to me how this oil is anything better than what you will get for the equivalent price..

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Postby speedfreak44 » April 22nd, 2010, 6:23 pm

TK!, i agree... 10w-30 is good.. but what is the mileage rate on it?

i use castrol full syn ... no probs

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Postby EL JEFE » April 22nd, 2010, 6:29 pm

CD4Accord wrote:TK, i agree with your supporting honda coolant, or trans fluid etc.. But honda oil man? You pushing it too far now...

Why the hell would I pay so much for rebranded mobil that its a grey bottle saying honda? Explain to me how this oil is anything better than what you will get for the equivalent price..


How much you play for Honda oil? The Firm has it for $35 a quart.

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Postby r3iXmann » April 22nd, 2010, 7:06 pm

before vat and tax? ^

retail is about $55/quart

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Postby CD4Accord » April 22nd, 2010, 7:13 pm

Seeing as its from the firm, is that quote before or after VAT?
I forgot that it was that price to be honest, but I still don't really see the point.
Honda oil is no better than any other comparative oil in the price range.. especially when you consider its just oil and isn't made with some sort of Honda-specific proprietary formula like the Manual + Auto trans fluids..

That said, for a while I was getting Total Quartz 9000 Synthetic for $42 a qt..
Now, it runs me about 53 or so a qt

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Postby r3iXmann » April 22nd, 2010, 7:15 pm

total is good stuff

best cleaning oil i've ever used..oil used to be BLACK when i drained it

it's a bit hard to find though,that's why i switched to shell helix (blue bottle)

never looked back since 8-)

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Postby CD4Accord » April 22nd, 2010, 7:26 pm

Funny, I made the opposite switch.. Wasnt so direct tho


Went from Shell Helix Plus (blue bottle) to Mobil1 for a while, but then came across the Total at Mathura's for a wicked price and been using it since.. Agreed 100% on the cleaning ability..
Im basing it more on how it cleaned up my engine after 1 yr use...

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Postby TK! » April 22nd, 2010, 8:01 pm

the other oils are also good. i've used:

- honda
- mobil 1
- castrol syntec

- currently use amsoil

Jus that you don't have to test/guess if the original honda oil works. Mobil makes it, yes. but it may not have the same exact additives as the mobil 10-30.

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Postby JDM_GUY » April 23rd, 2010, 8:55 am

TK!,what body oil do you use?

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Postby TK! » April 23rd, 2010, 10:10 am

once i get 10-30, i happy. you really do feel the difference.

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Postby ek4ever » April 23rd, 2010, 12:54 pm

TK! wrote:the other oils are also good. i've used:

- honda
- mobil 1
- castrol syntec

- currently use amsoil

Jus that you don't have to test/guess if the original honda oil works. Mobil makes it, yes. but it may not have the same exact additives as the mobil 10-30.


Agreed....I doubt EM would provide their best SuperSyn package for Honda branded oil they usually keep it for their Mobil products

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Postby Sky » April 23rd, 2010, 2:05 pm

r3iXmann wrote:total is good stuff

best cleaning oil i've ever used..oil used to be BLACK when i drained it

it's a bit hard to find though,that's why i switched to shell helix (blue bottle)

never looked back since 8-)


Helix in the blue bottle is the truth.

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Postby JDM_GUY » April 23rd, 2010, 3:35 pm

TK! wrote:once i get 10-30, i happy. you really do feel the difference.


but isnt that a little to thin for my engine?

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Postby r3iXmann » April 23rd, 2010, 3:40 pm

Sky wrote:Helix in the blue bottle is the truth.


ent! Image


JDM_GUY wrote:
TK! wrote:once i get 10-30, i happy. you really do feel the difference.


but isnt that a little to thin for my engine?


^
others in here (myself included) have been using 10w30 for years without problem.
You have a special engine or wha? :|

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Postby CD4Accord » April 23rd, 2010, 3:41 pm

Open up your manual for the car and see what grade oil it reccomends.. I dont know what is Trinidad's obsession with heavy oil...

I posted on this earlier, let me find the post...

"This obsession with heavy weight oil in Trinidad doesn't really make any sense...

Case in point, in Florida people use 10w-30 throughout the year.. including the summer which is equally hot if not hotter than Trinidad..
What im saying is, there is no real need (unless you are burning or leaking like mad) to use 20w-50 and 25w-50 oils in your engine...
Coming to think of it, Hondas in the US use 5w-20 with no problems, including in the summer in the south.
Even the "Racing" Oils usually go 15w-50, so if that is designed for a car running at max throttle all the time, why would a normal car need said weight?

Give it the good stuff and let it live to its true potential..

I personally run Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 on my 13 yr old F20B Honda engine with no isses... "

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Postby r3iXmann » April 23rd, 2010, 3:49 pm

CD4Accord wrote:Open up your manual for the car and see what grade oil it reccomends.. I dont know what is Trinidad's obsession with heavy oil...

I posted on this earlier, let me find the post...

"This obsession with heavy weight oil in Trinidad doesn't really make any sense...

Case in point, in Florida people use 10w-30 throughout the year.. including the summer which is equally hot if not hotter than Trinidad..
What im saying is, there is no real need (unless you are burning or leaking like mad) to use 20w-50 and 25w-50 oils in your engine...
Coming to think of it, Hondas in the US use 5w-20 with no problems, including in the summer in the south.
Even the "Racing" Oils usually go 15w-50, so if that is designed for a car running at max throttle all the time, why would a normal car need said weight?

Give it the good stuff and let it live to its true potential..

I personally run Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 on my 13 yr old F20B Honda engine with no isses... "


Agreed. I would also think that Honda did their R&D well enough to know that not only people in temperate countries would be buying their cars. The only thing in the factory manual that makes reference to heat is spark plugs, which should be +1 OEM for racing applications and tropical countries

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Postby CD4Accord » April 23rd, 2010, 4:01 pm

My bad about the manual, i got accustomed to the volvo manual where it gives you a breakdown based on ambient temperature etc...

Nonetheless, im pretty certain it doesnt mention 20w or 25w oil anywhere in your manual..

Try something less viscous and enjoy the power and fuel economy gains!

PS. In Trinidad its hard to find lighter weight mineral oils, so you will normally have to move up to at least semi-syn .. or if you hunt around maybe..

Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 still gets my vote..

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Postby r3iXmann » April 23rd, 2010, 4:06 pm

actually the manual just says that folks in temperate countries use 5w20 and everybody else should use 5w30/10w30 (depends on the manual)..just remembered :oops:

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Postby JDM_GUY » April 25th, 2010, 12:10 am

Guys i changed my oil today. Went with the ESSO 20w50 semi syn. The car feels a little better but i think next time i using the 10w30 once my engine could still handle it.
rex the reason i asked about the 10w30 cause i heard that my engine have to much mileage and it could damage. any light on this rex?

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Postby r3iXmann » April 25th, 2010, 3:08 am

afaik (open to correction)

up to 100,000kms - 10w30

after that, you gradually increase weight if necessary (xw40) and xw50 on really high mileage engines

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Postby JDM_GUY » April 25th, 2010, 8:44 pm

r3iXmann wrote:afaik (open to correction)

up to 100,000kms - 10w30

after that, you gradually increase weight if necessary (xw40) and xw50 on really high mileage engines


where did you get that info? If so then i can still run the 10w30 man?

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