Power outage and load shedding

[VexXx Dogg]

Brownout and power cut this evening waterloo/orange valley.
Lasted 5 mins. Isolated or anywhere else got some darkness?

Approx 750-755pm

[redmanjp]

hearing some outages in south this evening

[K74T]

Reports of a blackout in Vistabella, Marabella, Williamsville and parts of Princes Town.

[The_Honourable]

Reports of a blackout in Vistabella, Marabella, Williamsville and parts of Princes Town.

When i saw this post earlier, there was electricity but now, i'm seeing darkness in some parts of vistabella and san fernando.

I just saw when it came back, then 30 seconds later... gone.

[DMan7]

Power outage in the El Socorro area for about 15 - 20 mins. Btw the standard voltage for us is 240V ? My UPS fan keeps coming on due to low voltage even a few minutes before total outage.

[teems1]

Anyone in Charlieville area experiencing voltage fluctuating?

[VexXx Dogg]

seeing people reporting Low voltage all over.
No issues by me yet, but I hadda pull by DMM to check.

[DMan7]

Shouldn't the input voltage directly from the power outlet read 220V since we switched to that years now?

[The_Honourable]

Yeah voltage fluctuations seem to be happening in mostly central and parts of south.

[maj. tom]

Shouldn't the input voltage directly from the power outlet read 220V since we switched to that years now?

Screenshot 2023-05-04 212737.png

TTEC Residential use single phase 115/230 V +|- 6% AC. Just like USA/Canada Residential which can regionally vary up to 125/250V. Commercial and industry generally have separate transformers with 3 phase and higher voltages supplied than residential.

There are 3 wires entering at the TTEC pole to the main breaker. Neutral and two 115V lines, going all the way back to the nearest transformer on a pole. The potential difference between the two combined 115V lines is 230V.
Most plugs and light circuits in a house will be wired with either of the 115V lines with the potential difference compared to the neutral line. Less amps are pushed with lower voltages which is good enough for the power needs of most household appliances which are also wired with lower circuit breakers.

Circuits requiring much more current like a water heater, aircon or welding plan will use 230V wiring because those devices need more power hence more amps and more voltage to push it. Can't use the 115 V circuit because to push that much current with a lower voltage is more work and more heat in the wires. P=IV formula.The current drawn will trip the breakers anyway in a safely 115V wired panel. 230V plugs are wired with the two 115V lines rather than just one.

Use a multimeter and check the AC voltages between the live and neutral prong inserts in a typical outlet. You will get 115V +|- 6%. Check an aircon plug and you will get 230V. But in that plug also check between either and the ground insert you will get 115 V. See if it making sense.

Electricals ppl correct me where I wrong because that's the best I understand it.

[nervewrecker]

Shouldn't the input voltage directly from the power outlet read 220V since we switched to that years now?

Screenshot 2023-05-04 212737.png

TTEC Residential use single phase 115/230 V +|- 6% AC. Just like USA/Canada Residential which can regionally vary up to 125/250V. Commercial and industry generally have separate transformers with 3 phase and higher voltages supplied than residential.

There are 3 wires entering at the TTEC pole to the main breaker. Neutral and two 115V lines, going all the way back to the nearest transformer on a pole. The potential difference between the two combined 115V lines is 230V.
Most plugs and light circuits in a house will be wired with either of the 115V lines with the potential difference compared to the neutral line. Less amps are pushed with lower voltages which is good enough for the power needs of most household appliances which are also wired with lower circuit breakers.

Circuits requiring much more current like a water heater, aircon or welding plan will use 230V wiring because those devices need more power hence more amps and more voltage to push it. Can't use the 115 V circuit because to push that much current with a lower voltage is more work and more heat in the wires. P=IV formula.The current drawn will trip the breakers anyway in a safely 115V wired panel. 230V plugs are wired with the two 115V lines rather than just one.

Use a multimeter and check the AC voltages between the live and neutral prong inserts in a typical outlet. You will get 115V +|- 6%. Check an aircon plug and you will get 230V. But in that plug also check between either and the ground insert you will get 115 V. See if it making sense.

Electricals ppl correct me where I wrong because that's the best I understand it.

there are 110v water heaters and ac units. they have a current draw of double that of the 220v unit - P=IV

[pugboy]

the amps pulled on 220v will generally be less for same power if using same equation above and wastes less in the wires with the other equation I^2R

which is also why long distance transmission is extremely high voltage and low current, then stepped down on the lamp post with transformers to 440/220v
otherwise the wires on them big towers would get hot fast

[VexXx Dogg]

Given the wide geographical spread of the low voltage, did TTEC issue a statement about root cause?

[ruffneck_12]

Shouldn't the input voltage directly from the power outlet read 220V since we switched to that years now?

Screenshot 2023-05-04 212737.png

TTEC Residential use single phase 115/230 V +|- 6% AC. Just like USA/Canada Residential which can regionally vary up to 125/250V. Commercial and industry generally have separate transformers with 3 phase and higher voltages supplied than residential.

There are 3 wires entering at the TTEC pole to the main breaker. Neutral and two 115V lines, going all the way back to the nearest transformer on a pole. The potential difference between the two combined 115V lines is 230V.
Most plugs and light circuits in a house will be wired with either of the 115V lines with the potential difference compared to the neutral line. Less amps are pushed with lower voltages which is good enough for the power needs of most household appliances which are also wired with lower circuit breakers.

Circuits requiring much more current like a water heater, aircon or welding plan will use 230V wiring because those devices need more power hence more amps and more voltage to push it. Can't use the 115 V circuit because to push that much current with a lower voltage is more work and more heat in the wires. P=IV formula.The current drawn will trip the breakers anyway in a safely 115V wired panel. 230V plugs are wired with the two 115V lines rather than just one.

Use a multimeter and check the AC voltages between the live and neutral prong inserts in a typical outlet. You will get 115V +|- 6%. Check an aircon plug and you will get 230V. But in that plug also check between either and the ground insert you will get 115 V. See if it making sense.

Electricals ppl correct me where I wrong because that's the best I understand it.

yeah u correk, but you coulda summarize it

DMan, we always had 220, it's just split between two feeds (a 'positive' 110 and a 'negative' 110) for greater flexibility of voltages, optional bigger devices and load sharing.....

What is the model of ur UPS and what does the plug look like? I've attached a diagram, just pick the one its plugged into.


Ur UPS most likely plugged into a 110 outlet bro

[adnj]

Power outage in the El Socorro area for about 15 - 20 mins. Btw the standard voltage for us is 240V ? My UPS fan keeps coming on due to low voltage even a few minutes before total outage.

TTEC provides 230/115 Volt 1Ø (single-phase) to most homes. The supply is named 230/115 Volt 1Ø because of the type of transformer that is used for your service. In my experience, TTEC nearly always provides about 240/120V to residential service connections - which is on the high side of what should be expected.

If your UPS fan is coming on, it is very likely that the automatic voltage regulator (AVR) circuit is actively attempting to raise your household input voltage back up to 120V. The AVR circuit is a voltage amplifier/clipper and can get hot during operation.

If the input voltage drops too low (usually 80V - 100V), the UPS will switch to battery-only power.

Shouldn't the input voltage directly from the power outlet read 220V since we switched to that years now?
Screenshot 2023-05-04 212737.png

It should not. Most of your wall plugs will read ~120V from the line terminal to ground or line terminal to neutral on the plug. There are 220 Volt two-wire 1Ø power supplies available, but those are used in Europe and provide 220V two-wire output.

According to your block diagram:
- household voltage is 120.3V
- the UPS output is connected directly to the building's outlet.
- output voltage is unregulated a 120.3V

[DMan7]

Thanks for the responses folks, I think I'm well equipped with the necessary knowledge to go out there and work on the poles.

[nervewrecker]

the amps pulled on 220v will generally be less for same power if using same equation above and wastes less in the wires with the other equation I^2R

which is also why long distance transmission is extremely high voltage and low current, then stepped down on the lamp post with transformers to 440/220v
otherwise the wires on them big towers would get hot fast

It's also high voltage to overcome resistance / impedance over long runs.

We also use aluminum or ACSR (aluminum core, steel reinforced) despite copper being a better conductor as it's lighter so less sag accross pole spans and it's cheaper.

Same conductors for low voltage can be used for high voltage as it's the insulation resistance that matters. What matters is where insulation is needed because for overhead transmission air is the insulator. There are insulated HV lines in use, sudama village is one such place where iirc the 33kv is transmitted across a few pole spans in an area where there is heavy vegetation. Terrain and pole height would have constantly put the conductors at risk of shorts and downtime on the grid.

Line spacing is dependant on ability to ionize air and voltages jump accross coupled with the electromagnetic field generated.

You get 110/220V where there is a center tap for a neutral on two coils.
From and end of any coil to the neutral is a 110v phase. You get two phases coming to a house (except in places wired for 110v only or places like point Fortin with single phase single wire 220V) where phase to neutral is 110V and phase to phase (both ends of both coil) gives you the sum of the induced voltages in both coils, ie 220V.

I don't think anyone should be climbing poles without the linesman training. There is a lot to learn and a lot to appreciate in the job T&TEC does. Can't say the same for some of the ratch work some contractors do.

[pugboy]

pt fortin households have it specifically different so?

[nervewrecker]

pt fortin households have it specifically different so?

It's how power in the area is before it was populated. Maybe 3 phase 440V LV so the only available power is 440V single phase two wire or 220V single phase phase and neutral so they need a tx for 110V.

I know for a fact Handel Street is wired like this and every house you pass by over there has small tx units around for their 110V

[pugboy]

so who owns that household transformer and if it
blows who pays to replace?

[nervewrecker]

so who owns that household transformer and if it
blows who pays to replace?

i'm not sure if the TX are privately owned or by T&TEC. I honestly cant remember offhand where their jurisdiction ends, on commercial TX I think its at the LV side. I honestly cant remember if the TX has a main breaker on it's primary as a protection device. In my mind it should be like every other TX connected to the mains, that's yours and your responsibility but this situation is different where a 110V isn't available.

TX dont blow, there is usually a fuse on the primary side that blows where an abnormal condition presented itself and rated draw has been exceeded. Other systems have VCB, OCB or auto-reclosers that trip almost instantly upon detection of a fault. Some (not sure if all) try to reclose three times before lockout and manual reset required. Its why after an outage you will see power comes back on once and stays on, maybe twice before it goes out again and the third time, thats it.

This is for temporary conditions like lines made contact somehow from things like overgrown vegetation brushed a line, trucks brushed lines, branch fall, bird or animal short circuit the system. If its something like fallen lines which is more persistent / permanent the system will remain off until the commission attends to the matter.

With proper protection in place there should be no damages to the TX, most are in service for years upon years and only fail from misuse. Off the top of my head, I think England is wired like this so there is the option to acquire appliances from there and minimize load on the 110V circuit and a lot of appliances actually have a 110/220v switch behind it.

[alfa]

pt fortin households have it specifically different so?

It's how power in the area is before it was populated. Maybe 3 phase 440V LV so the only available power is 440V single phase two wire or 220V single phase phase and neutral so they need a tx for 110V.

I know for a fact Handel Street is wired like this and every house you pass by over there has small tx units around for their 110V

You know by chance what size those transformers are? Cuz I thinking if it's small they'll be fairly limited in the size of loads they can draw. On appliances that work on 220v but have a 110v circuit board that'll still be needed to be taken from the transformer thus adding to further load. Not sure if air conditioning units are like that but I know some 220v dryer units are like that

[Chimera]

if you install two influx capacitors in series but then you juxtapose the parallelogram wiring, can you get 440v down to 110v ?

[pugboy]

your feel is back to future or wha?

if you install two influx capacitors in series but then you juxtapose the parallelogram wiring, can you get 440v down to 110v ?

[gastly369]

[DMan7]

your feel is back to future or wha?

if you install two influx capacitors in series but then you juxtapose the parallelogram wiring, can you get 440v down to 110v ?

Let the man cook, I'm hoping we get a time machine out of this conversation.

[Chimera]

if i get just ONE chance to go back in time......

should i

A) go back to before Trinidad became independent and stop that

B) go back to when rowley's father was on the way to meet his mother and run him off the road and carry him in a rumshop to drink so he wouldnt do that faithful jam

C) go back and the week before the biggest lotto jackpot and buy the ticket and win it

[DMan7]

Most people are selfish and would choose C.

[Chimera]

I choosing c and getting out of it. Hard luck dey people

[nervewrecker]

pt fortin households have it specifically different so?

It's how power in the area is before it was populated. Maybe 3 phase 440V LV so the only available power is 440V single phase two wire or 220V single phase phase and neutral so they need a tx for 110V.

I know for a fact Handel Street is wired like this and every house you pass by over there has small tx units around for their 110V

You know by chance what size those transformers are? Cuz I thinking if it's small they'll be fairly limited in the size of loads they can draw. On appliances that work on 220v but have a 110v circuit board that'll still be needed to be taken from the transformer thus adding to further load. Not sure if air conditioning units are like that but I know some 220v dryer units are like that

They limited to lighting and small appliances like TV etc at most, toasters, blow driers and flat irons.

Systems with 110V boards, that's a control circuit while the load remains 220V. Some have 24V and 12V control circuits with transformers built in. Most AC units are 12V DC but as of recent they start coming with 220V control boards.

If you look at some of our timers, they are on the control circuit, some were 24V and needed a control tx.