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:: The official TOOLS thread ::

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*KRONIK*
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » December 16th, 2016, 9:08 pm

As u say impact sockets

Image

These working good so far

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby neexis » December 17th, 2016, 12:27 pm

What kinda masonry bits allyuh fellas using? And how much life those normally have before getting dull?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » December 17th, 2016, 12:33 pm

Used a Bosch recently, totally amazed at the performance. Before I used to use those generic ones that sell at those hardware store. 30-40$ per bit

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Re: RE: Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » December 17th, 2016, 1:36 pm

neexis wrote:What kinda masonry bits allyuh fellas using? And how much life those normally have before getting dull?

Using these a while now...

Image

The 1/4" get some good work so far, the head now start to get a lil smooth.
Works well.

I used the 1/2" a few weeks ago...i wasnt too impressed, even tho my uncle and cousin seemed rather intrigued. All use so far was with the cordless hammer drill.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » December 17th, 2016, 3:48 pm

bosch blue granite hammer drill bits
expensive but amazing

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Strugglerzinc » December 17th, 2016, 6:11 pm

X_Factor wrote:bosch blue granite hammer drill bits
expensive but amazing


x1000

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Duane 3NE 2NR » December 17th, 2016, 10:18 pm

X_Factor wrote:bosch blue granite hammer drill bits
expensive but amazing

Been using the rock carbide DeWalt 1/4" bits around the house (all concrete blocks and some loaded) and it works ok with a DeWalt DW505 hammer drill.

Definitely going to try the Bosch you recommend here cause I find the "like butter" comments I see earlier in this thread not working for me. Wall hard like iron.

Where sells them?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » December 17th, 2016, 10:39 pm

Got mine at allied. Guy who wanted the buffing machine, I came across this today shopping.
1482028753487.jpg

425$

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » December 17th, 2016, 11:19 pm

Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:
X_Factor wrote:bosch blue granite hammer drill bits
expensive but amazing

Been using the rock carbide DeWalt 1/4" bits around the house (all concrete blocks and some loaded) and it works ok with a DeWalt DW505 hammer drill.

Definitely going to try the Bosch you recommend here cause I find the "like butter" comments I see earlier in this thread not working for me. Wall hard like iron.

Where sells them?


never really looked for them locally, and i could imagine the price
i got my set from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HCBG800-Gr ... ue+granite

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby adnj » December 18th, 2016, 3:01 pm

I use Bosch for concrete that has large aggregate. Dewalt and Makita make great bits that work hard and I use them, too. I use my hammerdrill only for mortar or fine concrete. I use SDS Plus bits and a rotary hammer for anything else.

If you get a diamond wheel for a bench grinder, you can sharpen your carbide bits just as easily can a tool steel bit. They will last for hundreds (depending) of holes and will cut better and stay cooler also.
Last edited by adnj on December 18th, 2016, 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » December 18th, 2016, 3:24 pm

So where has Christmas sale these days? I saw L&G has a 24" 6 drawer tool chest for 995$. I also looking for a 6" bench vice for under 1k.

Saw some good record but not 1k na. Need a decent air hose, water trap and a hammer drill

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » December 19th, 2016, 8:01 pm

So i went today saw the tool chest, Wasn't too impressive but for a DIY guy id highly recommend it. I already have one this size but it makes no sense buying another at this size.

Anyone looking for a black and decker 20v lithium drill, i saw them for just over 500$ At L&G

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Re: RE: Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » December 19th, 2016, 8:29 pm

Ted_v2 wrote:So i went today saw the tool chest, Wasn't too impressive but for a DIY guy id highly recommend it. I already have one this size but it makes no sense buying another at this size.

Anyone looking for a black and decker 20v lithium drill, i saw them for just over 500$ At L&G


Bhagwansinghs had them on sale.
I didnt price it tho...but they had it in the "sale" section

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby kripplerz » December 24th, 2016, 5:56 pm

For the guy that's looking for the polisher, a da polisher is always better and clay before you polish if there are contaminants. You will get a much better finish.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 24th, 2016, 6:56 pm

The man said he looking for a buffer, what is the difference between a buffer and a polisher? Could anybody enlighten me? Also, can a DA polisher buff a car that was micro- sanded? Could a polisher buff?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby G-DUB » December 24th, 2016, 7:39 pm

A da polisher can buff a car that has been wet sanded.
How quick it gets the sand marks out depends on how much you refine the finish.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » December 24th, 2016, 9:20 pm

So...story time:

I gone up toco today to drop someone. I took my reciprocating saw in case i bounce up a tree in the road...since trees like to fall in the road. It turns out when i reach where i was going...there was a coconut tree across the road. I chap it in half with the saw.

Moral of story: walk with ur saw when going rural areas as u will encounter a fallen tree and get 12" blades as 9" isnt long enough

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 24th, 2016, 11:26 pm

Rotary vs DA Polisher vs Traditional Orbital Buffer


First, let's start with the information in Meguiar's *NEW* FAQ



2. What's the difference between?

* Dual-Action polisher
* Orbital buffer
* Rotary buffer


Dual-Action polishers and Orbital buffers

The motors and drive units on these two types of polisher's oscillate in an eccentric circular motion. This type of motion is much safer to the paint because it's virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish.

Because these types of machines oscillate instead of rotate, they will not instill the dreaded buffer swirls or holograms into your finish as long as you use the appropriate chemicals, buffing pads and bonnets. This safety feature makes these machines highly popular with enthusiasts who would like to use a machine but at the same time, are afraid of burning or inflicting swirls into their car's finish.

Both the G-100 and Orbital buffers offer a number of benefits:

* Uncomplicated – Remove from box, attach buffing pad or bonnet, plug in, turn on, start buffing.

* Versatile – Can be used for cleaning, polishing, and applying waxes.

* Takes most of the labor out of the process, the machine does the work, all you do is hold it.

* Faster, more thorough - you can cover more area and do a better job with a machine.

* Creates a more uniform, higher gloss finish than your hands.

* Pushes polishing oils and protective waxes into the pores and microscopic surface imperfections far better than your hands can ever accomplish.



In recent years, the Porter Cable Dual-Action polisher (G-100) has become the machine of choice over the older style Orbital buffers for a number of different reasons:


* Smaller size and lighter weight makes them easier for anyone to use.

* Very easy to control, requires no previous experience or skill to use correctly.

* Smaller size enables you to work on small panels and tight areas easier with better control.

* More options for buffing pads and bonnets.

* Velcro® interface makes changing between pads fast and easy.


Rotary buffers

Rotary buffers are drastically different in the way they work compared to Dual-action polishers and Orbital buffers.

The drive unit used in a rotary buffer is referred to as a direct drive. What this means is the auger, (the threaded part to which the backing plate attaches), is driven directly off the electric motor. This results in a powerful rotating motion. This rotating motion is typically clockwise as you look at the rotary buffer from behind, as though you were using it on a panel.

Because the rotary buffer is a direct drive machine, it can do a lot of work very quickly. By work, we mean, the rotary buffer will remove paint.

Meguiar's understands the average person doesn't want to remove precious paint from their car's finish. However, sometimes removing paint is necessary in order to create a high gloss, defect-free finish. Example: If you have a scratch in your car's finish, say someone keyed your car, or a cat jumped up on the hood and left behind claw scratches. From a horizontal point of view, these scratches would look like this,



In order to remove these scratches, you will need to remove enough paint surrounding the scratches in order to make the surface level. As you can see in this example, removing the scratches will require removing quite a bit of paint material, and in the case of the deep key scratch (where the arrow is pointing), you will not be able to completely remove it without exposing the base, or color coat of paint. This is a situation where you are better off improving the scratch, not completely removing the scratch.

Second Example: Many cars, after being painted, are wet-sanded in order to remove orange peel or to bring the surface to a show car quality finish. After the finish has been sanded, the way you remove the sanding marks is to buff the finish with a cutting compound and a rotary buffer. The cutting compound abrades the paint, removing, or leveling the finish until it’s completely flat.

After the surface is buffed flat, it will then be polished with a cleaner/polish like Meguiar’s M-83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the rotary buffer to restore a swirl-free, high gloss finish. Rotary buffers are necessary to do both of these procedures because both of these procedures require that some portion of the paint is removed.

Dual-action polishers and Orbital buffers do not have an aggressive enough action to remove small particles of paint in an effort to remove most defects, including sanding marks. This is the same reason Dual-action polishers and Orbital buffers are safe… they don’t have an aggressive action, thus they are safe. However, because they are safe (do not have an aggressive action), they are not aggressive enough to remove all but the finest of scratches.

Do not purchase a dual action polisher or orbital buffer hoping to use these to remove major or even minor scratches, as they are just not aggressive enough. They can often be used to remove fine or shallow scratches and swirls, but they will not remove any scratch that is deep enough to place your fingernail into.

Remember, using a rotary buffer successfully requires both skill and experience. If you use a rotary buffer and are not skilled in its use, you can easily apply too much pressure to the paint and burn right through it, requiring a new paint job. This same result can happen if you use a buffing pad attached to an electric drill.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 24th, 2016, 11:33 pm

A polisher cannot do the work of a buffing machine. A polisher will clean, polish etc, but once it is color-sanded, it is a horse of a different color. You need to cut with compound. After you buff you can use the polisher . It is only about thirty years I doing it , so I have a little idea.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » December 25th, 2016, 9:48 am

rSpann when you planning to run a lil program to teach we boys about painting and polishing?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Strugglerzinc » December 25th, 2016, 10:03 am

Ted_v2 wrote:rSpann when you planning to run a lil program to teach we boys about painting and polishing?


I dey. Where do i sign up?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 25th, 2016, 10:32 am

The best way is to learn on your own, no lie. When I started in 1992, I did not go anywhere to learn . I did lots of reading, and tried to understand what I was doing. Yes there were mistakes but I learned from them. Every situation is different. What works on one job doesn't work on the other. Time is the greatest teacher, but anyone is free to ask me anything and I won't claim to know everything but I can hold my corner. Today I can safely say that I am the second best when it comes to chassis work.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby G-DUB » December 25th, 2016, 11:04 am




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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 25th, 2016, 11:30 am

Nice machine. Like he said around .40sec, it will remove 3000 and finer, but it's harder work with the 1500 grit. To do a whole car with that fine a paper must take real long.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby G-DUB » December 25th, 2016, 3:26 pm

Who finishes sanding on 1500 grit and starts to cut with compound? Usually bodyshops will go to 2000 grit then start compounding, but with 3M trizact discs it makes work so easy. You can get thru a car in very little time with their 3000 or 5000 discs making the compounding step really easy and the finished product so much more flatter and cleaner.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 25th, 2016, 7:04 pm

[quote="G-DUB"]Who finishes sanding on 1500 grit and starts to cut with compound? Usually bodyshops will go to 2000 grit then start compounding, but with 3M trizact discs it makes work so easy. You can get thru a car in very little time with their 3000 or 5000 discs making the compounding step really easy and the finished product so much more flatter and cleaner.

The only time I going through all that hard work is when it's a show finish. My work is more paint, 2000 , buff and roll out. You ever use Abralon?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby G-DUB » December 26th, 2016, 7:31 am

No never used Abralon.
Always used 3M.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 26th, 2016, 8:53 am

G-DUB wrote:No never used Abralon.
Always used 3M.

Which compounds and polishes you find better, Farecla or 3M?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby G-DUB » December 26th, 2016, 8:59 am

I can`t say which is better because i have never used Farecla.
I use 3M 3 step and used Meguiars before.
Meguiars M205 is a really nice polish.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby rspann » December 26th, 2016, 9:12 am

It is a nice polish, used it on a Rolls Royce and a Bentley, shine so deep you could comb your hair . I use a lot of Farecla because my day to day work calls for speed, G3 cuts like crazy, that and the Meguiars W7000 cutting pad is my lifeline. 3M is excellent when you going into details and high quality work especially black.

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