The Official CS Lancer Thread!

[katalist]

i own a Manuel Cs3 Mitsu and i have read alot of solutions to this problem, from replacing the idle speed contorl valve to the "flat head fix" and all sorts of things, basicly anytime i remove the battery or remove one of the terminals even if just for a second when the car comes to a stop / low idle it cuts off, this happend a few times already, i have forced and driven the car for almost a week which at the end it disappeared and the car was back to normal and the last time i removed the negative terminal over night as suggested by a fellow tunner which worked. Now i am trying to put to pratice removing the negative am terminal again but to no avail, i have noticed its problem faced by some, my neighbour has an automatic Cs3 but said he never had this problem. what is the right fix to this problem and what causes this , PLEASE HELP.

Katalist maybe i have a hard time understanding english but what exactly is your problem?

Why are you removing the battery terminals? Everytime you do so you have to retrain the ecu
Its in the mitsubishi manual

What to do when engine speed becomes unstable after battery replacement
1.Place vechicle in P. switch off, turn off ac
2. Restart and allow to warm up until needle stabilizes near center mark
3. allow engine to idle for appr 10min
4. when engine speed stabilizes, the resetting is complete
(if i get a chance i ll send the actual pic from the manual)
But this is one of your problems when removing the battery terminal, this is never something you should be practicing unless you have a serious electrical problem.

So besides the irratic idle from removing terminal what other symptoms do you have?
Have you tried cleaning you map sensor, checking coils and spark plugs?

Sorry if i wrote a bit confusing i just wanted to my story across.

Well should begin with saying i dont have a automatic CS3, its a Manual CS3/ Clutch, so as to puting it into park thats out of the question. but i get where your coming from. I did what you said before, when it come to switching off and letting it idle for a while but this didnt help at all. because when i have to stop, the car goes to a very low idle and cuts off.

The car runs good once its moving but as i said once i come to a stop its cuts off, I heard tunners talking about ajusting the flathead screw on the throttle body but its not something you should really do i've also heard about replacing the idle control valve but another tunner mentioned that this valve doesnt go just like that and it can be a ECU problem, and so on and so on it seems to me that basically if one gives problems it can lead to another.
A mechanic told me it seems mine isnt giving a big problem because the engine steps up when the A/C is put on, he told me the throttle body may need cleaning.

What you think?

[nissan4life]

Sorry if i wrote a bit confusing i just wanted to my story across.

Well should begin with saying i dont have a automatic CS3, its a Manual CS3/ Clutch, so as to puting it into park thats out of the question. but i get where your coming from. I did what you said before, when it come to switching off and letting it idle for a while but this didnt help at all. because when i have to stop, the car goes to a very low idle and cuts off.

The car runs good once its moving but as i said once i come to a stop its cuts off, I heard tunners talking about ajusting the flathead screw on the throttle body but its not something you should really do i've also heard about replacing the idle control valve but another tunner mentioned that this valve doesnt go just like that and it can be a ECU problem, and so on and so on it seems to me that basically if one gives problems it can lead to another.
A mechanic told me it seems mine isnt giving a big problem because the engine steps up when the A/C is put on, he told me the throttle body may need cleaning.

What you think?

Katalist you basically could be looking at a number of things. Clutch or auto the idle is your problem
When applying brakes it cuts off so that could indicate a booster leak, as booster is tied back into the engine vacuum/air control. Check booster or for vacuum leaks.

Could be a blocked egr valve as well( not sure if cs3 have these)
Clean maf/map and see what happens.
If the idle steps up during load then i doubt its iacv. But it could be related.
Idlemind posted a vid on how to clean the iacv. Search for it,its on the forum.

Clean you throttle body wit Bars, pull on x cable open butterfly and see if theres any gunk behind the butterfly.
Could also be a dirty or failing O2 sensor. Trust me these dont always throw a cel. A person who knows to diagnose can see how the o2 is performing to state if its running lean or rich and how its affecting cars air/fuel ratios

Start with simplest, cheapest option and go from there.

[Nidish]

Sorry to tell you, but that pretty much looks like your head gasket had failed and oil mixed with your coolant. It is possible that those same fans may have failed and caused that issue.

You'll most likely have to do an engine job by removing the head and replacing with a new head gasket (Buy genuine mitsubishi gasket preferably.)

Also possibly check the radiator for damage, if the cap blew off (may have damaged the locking points on the neck of the radiator itself).

And lastly have your fans checked to see if a controller has failed or a direct relay has done so.

Actually, its the thermostat not working and the water inlet pipe being rusty. Can anyone please give me the part numbers for the thermostat, thermostat gasket and water inlet pipe so that i can order them? Thanks

[Jade_Inc.]

Thks it's how my spark plugs look, my car isn't smoking at all... any ideas what could cause this?

[cinco]

Thks it's how my spark plugs look, my car isn't smoking at all... any ideas what could cause this?

Sparkplug seals on the valve cover leaking

[Jade_Inc.]

Just the threads are getting oil, the spark plug wire is dry. Not a drop of oil

[ZeroOne]

Sorry to tell you, but that pretty much looks like your head gasket had failed and oil mixed with your coolant. It is possible that those same fans may have failed and caused that issue.

You'll most likely have to do an engine job by removing the head and replacing with a new head gasket (Buy genuine mitsubishi gasket preferably.)

Also possibly check the radiator for damage, if the cap blew off (may have damaged the locking points on the neck of the radiator itself).

And lastly have your fans checked to see if a controller has failed or a direct relay has done so.

Actually, its the thermostat not working and the water inlet pipe being rusty. Can anyone please give me the part numbers for the thermostat, thermostat gasket and water inlet pipe so that i can order them? Thanks

PM me chassis # those part # vary for CS3's

[wagonrunner]

Just the threads are getting oil, the spark plug wire is dry. Not a drop of oil

which is usually as a result of exactly what cinco said.

[Jade_Inc.]

Mechanic chittin I up den...I bought the plug seals and carried it for him to change and he told me the seals is not the problem. He said my rings maybe going....

[wagonrunner]

between you and your mech.
Some have had your symptoms before, and we shared our solution.

Im sure the seals are cheaper to replace (can even DIY) than the rings, but it is up to you.

[Jade_Inc.]

I wud do it myself but is there any gasket or rubbers that wud need changing when I open the top cover?

Edit.
Seals isn't the problem.. just opened the cover and the seals are perfect

[Nidish]

Guys, for the 4G18 SOHC Manual with F5M41, I only have 3 belts that I see, I think one is for powersteering/aircon and one is for alternator and one is for timing belt?

But why is there so many timing belts for the 4G18 engine? which one to buy? Thanks

[ronsin1]

I wud do it myself but is there any gasket or rubbers that wud need changing when I open the top cover?

Edit.
Seals isn't the problem.. just opened the cover and the seals are perfect

I replaced recently my seals looked very good but they were still leaking. used the new seal and no problem since

[Jade_Inc.]

I wud do it myself but is there any gasket or rubbers that wud need changing when I open the top cover?

Edit.
Seals isn't the problem.. just opened the cover and the seals are perfect

I replaced recently my seals looked very good but they were still leaking. used the new seal and no problem since

Ok bro, I already bought them so I would try it. Thanks

[Kingpin_9]

Hey there can someone help me out?
I'm trying to find the part number of cv joint for the cs3a 4g18 efi lancer w/o abs.
It has 23 inner teeth and 25 outer teeth. It doesn't seem to be the MR953745

HELP!

[gastly369]

Looking for 4g18 map sensor pn

[ZeroOne]

Those waning PN's PM me your chassis#

[turbo6930]

fellas i looking for the link that was posted from the guy that removed the intake on the 4g93-t GDI with all the steps posted...link me please, wana do the same to my car

[kjaglal76v2]

anybody interested in a complete gearbox conversion? know someone wanting to make a trade

[wagonrunner]

anybody interested in a complete gearbox conversion? know someone wanting to make a trade

i am. whats included in the complete?

[turbo_beast369]

turbo6930

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=453517&hilit=DIY

[Jade_Inc.]

What could make a "clacks" sound when ever I mash X? (Not every time I'm hearing it tho) Yesterday I turned the steering slightly and mashing the x slowly and I was hearing the sound.
Could it be the velocity joint?

[kjaglal76v2]

where to get the rubber strips that under the bonnet?

[cinco]

What could make a "clacks" sound when ever I mash X? (Not every time I'm hearing it tho) Yesterday I turned the steering slightly and mashing the x slowly and I was hearing the sound.
Could it be the velocity joint?

Yes or stabilizer link

[nissan4life]

^^^
If its only when applying brakes.I would inspect if brakes are seated properly first /missing anti shimmer clips.
stabilizer links, ball joints
CV usually make grinding noise when pressure is applied on the turning force.

where to get the rubber strips that under the bonnet?

bamboo from a bonnet or from any cs man who willing to let you take a look at his engine.

[Jade_Inc.]

I always hear like my low break pad sensor is making noise (metal against metal sound) my pad were recently changed. I'll check the link also

[ZeroOne]

looking for a right axle if anyone have one

[madman2961]

i have the IACV for a mitsubishi vehicle not too sure what engine it will work in but this is the part number md628318. believe it is for a 4G63 so if anyone need it i have it for $350 just trying to get back what i paid for it.

[Nidish]

Hey guys, I'm nearing 70k mileage. Since i am not the first owner, i prefer to change the timing belt at this interval rather than at 100K. I have already purchased the timing belt. Got it in SUN Brand. It's made in japan. What else is neccesary to change? Thanks

[BrotherHood]

Hey guys, I'm nearing 70k mileage. Since i am not the first owner, i prefer to change the timing belt at this interval rather than at 100K. I have already purchased the timing belt. Got it in SUN Brand. It's made in japan. What else is neccesary to change? Thanks

Timing belt tensioner
Camshaft seal x 1 (assuming you have the 4G18 single cam engine)
Crankshaft seal x 2.
Water pump (since u changing timing belt)
Gallon of coolant to flush radiator (since you changing water pump).
Tappet cover gasket and spark plug seals.