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TTUNDRA Drag Racing Saturday Results & Competition tomorrow!

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TTUNDRA Drag Racing Saturday Results & Competition tomorrow!

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 27th, 2013, 1:11 am

Image

TTUNDRA presents Drag Racing at Camden on the 31st August and 1st September 2013



Briefing Meeting will be on Thursday 29th August at the Chaguanas Indoor Sporting Arena at 9:00PM

The costs are as follows:
To compete: FREE (TTUNDRA Member)
$350 (NON-TTUNDRA MEMBER)
Spectator Fee:
Saturday: $30
Sunday: $50

Children under 12 I believe are free!

Saturday: TEST & TUNE
Sunday: Competition

Timing system used: Christian Tam's system, (worked flawlessly last event)

photos from this event can be found at Lyden Thomas' Page at: http://www.lydenthomas.com
Last edited by Sinister_Audio on September 1st, 2013, 1:56 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby red_dragon » August 27th, 2013, 6:55 am

What time the events starting on saturday and sunday

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby turbosingh » August 27th, 2013, 9:25 am

^^ Just read the logo 11am

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby JDM_GUY » August 27th, 2013, 9:48 am

if you want to just time your car Saturday what will be the cost?

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 27th, 2013, 1:58 pm

Information Change Notice:
TTUNDRA Members race cost: FREE
Non-TTUNDRA Members: $350TT

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby FugiTECH » August 27th, 2013, 3:37 pm

Best Video !!!

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby QG » August 29th, 2013, 2:11 pm

word...

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 29th, 2013, 2:57 pm

Tonight's meeting will start at 9PM at the Central Regional Indoor Sporting Arena.

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 2:45 pm

Cyber Evo: 10.9

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 3:10 pm

Fish Van: 10.0 Fastest SR Locally

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing @Camden THIS INDEPENDENCE DAY WEEKEN

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 3:33 pm

Boost Factory's S14: 9.4 (1st pass)

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 4:23 pm

Hayden's Tercel: 12.5

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 4:27 pm

Gerrard's Teknet Evo7: 11.8 also a clean 12.0

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 4:39 pm

Kevin Khan's Cressida: 13.8

Rampee's B13: 11.7

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 4:53 pm

Kingston Twelve's Laurel: 12.2

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Sinister_Audio » August 31st, 2013, 5:15 pm

Boost Factory's second pass: 9.37 / 1.573 60ft
Fastest Time for the day, two 9 second passes.

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Alain_2NR » August 31st, 2013, 6:21 pm

What times Ryan Garcia did with GSR SKF Lancer..?

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby FugiTECH » August 31st, 2013, 6:59 pm

Ryan was testing the car but got a 1.2 60ft

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby cornfused » August 31st, 2013, 7:58 pm

Riva Racing 120y 11.04 only one pass for the day.
Last edited by cornfused on September 2nd, 2013, 10:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby A172 » August 31st, 2013, 8:00 pm

Sinister_Audio wrote:Hayden's Tercel: 12.5


gj hayden, hope he gets a better time tomorrow.

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby 16 cycles » August 31st, 2013, 8:36 pm

passed through...some of the pics are cars that ran...some were just chilling...mode feel free to move if need be....

thanks to all those who accommodated for the pics...

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^ some cool fellas from the honda camp

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^ set up on bike
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really well put together car....brrom stick missing a jdm sticker...

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drew alot of attention

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^guy was joking about 17s...think he made 12s..

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^teknet camp....many thanks for helping out G esp on staging...

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^9s bike

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^evo gonna be one of the more photographed ones...

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brakes are awesome...

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diff bike...props to lady for sticking with it...did a personal best IIRC

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another fast bike...

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby honda hoe » August 31st, 2013, 8:59 pm

Nice pics cycles

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby 4everstock » September 1st, 2013, 12:10 am

Drag Strip Info and Etiquette

Staging:

Watch the track officials, do not move until they motion you forward. You should keep your AC off in the staging lanes, it will drip water that will get on tires and ruin traction. Your windows should be closed (and parking lights on if it is nighttime) as you approach the starting line.

As you approach the starting area, you will reach the "water box", an area that is kept wet by track officials. If you have street tires, drive around the water. You may back up a little to straighten the car out and get your rear tires onto the damp area just past the water box. If you drive through the water, your tread will spread the water into the starting area and other competitors will hate you for it! The water is there to allow cars with race tires to do a proper "burn out". Street tired cars should not do a big smoky burnout. The rubber in street tires is designed to operate best at typical ambient temperatures. The tires get slipperier, not stickier, when they get too hot. Just wait for the official to give you the signal to advance to the starting line. At that point, just briefly spin the tires while you accelerate out of the damp area and pull up to the lights. If your car is an automatic, hold the brakes on while you press down on the accelerator and your wheels should spin when you release the brake. For a stick shift, just bring the revs up and "pop" the clutch to get your wheels to spin for a few revolutions.


The "Christmas Tree"

The start of a drag race is controlled by the "Christmas tree", often called just the "tree". It has multicolored starting lights and the name comes from these. On each competitors side are seven lights: two small yellow lights at the top of the fixture, followed in descending order by three larger yellow lights, then a green and a red bulb. Two light beams cross the starting-line area and are wired to the Christmas tree and electronic timers. When the front tires of a vehicle break the first light beam, called the pre-stage beam, the top yellow light (pre-stage light) illuminates and indicates that the car is approximately seven inches from the starting line.

Rolling further forward into the stage beam causes the second yellow light (the stage light) to illuminate, indicating that the vehicle is ready to race. When both vehicles are staged, the starter will activate the tree, and each driver will focus on the three large amber lights on his side of the tree. The three large yellow light will illuminate consecutively 0.500sec (1/2 second) apart, followed in 0.500sec by the green light. This sequence of lights is called a "full tree". There is also a "pro tree" in which all three yellow lights illuminate for 0.400sec. As a newcomer you will want a full tree.


The Starting Line

As you approach the starting line, watch the starter and the "tree" as you creep forward. When the top yellow light illuminates, you are "pre-staged". If you are first to the line, wait for the other car to pre-stage before you "stage". To stage, advance just a little further until the second yellow comes on. If you go too far, first the top and then the second light will go out. If that happens, back up past the line and creep forward again until both lights are illuminated. You are not yet ready for the controversial technique of "deep staging" where up pull far enough forward to extinguish the first light but still leave the second light illuminated. After both cars have staged, the tree will start. Each of the three main yellow lights will come on in succession 0.5sec apart. You should launch when the last yellow illuminates, the green light will illuminate 0.5sec later and you need to anticipate this to get close to the perfect 0.500sec reaction time. If your reaction time is less than 0.500sec you have "red lighted". You can still make your pass for testing purposes, but you have lost the race unless your competitor red lights first!



Here’s some more Drag 'Racing' etiquette that should be noted:
1) Do not start your burnout while the guy in front of you is still staging.
2) Unless you have a car that seriously needs to lay down a rubber strip, do not pretend like you are John Force and do a burnout through the timing lights.
3) Do not sit in the staging lanes with your a/c running.
4) DO NOT DOUBLE BULB your opponent. Some of you might be scratching your head as to what I mean. (I actually watched quite a few people do this quite often) Let me break it down as to what you're suppose to do:
A) Pull up to the line and roll into the first bulb.
B) Sit there and WAIT.
C) Do not pull forward yet.
D) Sit there and WAIT.
E) Do not pull forward yet. You should still only have one bulb lit up.
F) Now you see his bulb come on.
G) You are NOW allowed to pull forward.


I don't care if you have a turbo and need to start spooling it up. I don't care if you need to purge your nitrous. I don't care if you have a Transbrake and want to get ready. Whatever you have going on inside your car really makes no difference. DO NOT DOUBLE BULB your opponent.

However, if you are the Second car... and you see that your opponent already has one bulb lit up... you are permitted to pull forward into both bulbs... But, only if the other guy already has one bulb lit up. In other words, if you are the second car pulling in, you don't have to pull into one bulb, then wait for his second, then pull into your second. (That's typically what I do, but you don't have to). If he already has one bulb lit, he's telling you he's ready so you can stage however you like.

5) Do not be unsportsmanlike and takes forever to stage. You see the other guy's ONE bulb is lit up. You should be ready to go... pull forward.
6) Do not try to 'burn down' the other guy. What this means is... you've activated one bulb, your opponent has both bulbs activated and he's over there on his two-step or Tbrake, and you're just buying time pulling forward with the purpose of hoping his tranny gets hot, etc.

Can you tell I don't like it when people DOUBLE BULB the other guy? In a true sanctioned race (and if the starter is doing what he's suppose to), if you pull up and double bulb... the starter will walk over to you and tell you to back up and re-stage 'properly'.

Please feel free to add to the list. The purpose of this thread is to educate those that were never taught proper drag racing etiquette.

(addition:)
The Courtesy stage
In drag racing your car there is a thing we call courtesy stage. What this means in the nut shell is, the first car to the line. Pulls up far enough to light the PRE STAGE BULBS ONLY! Then WAITS for the other driver to do likewise. Don’t just go roaring up to the line, light the pre stage, the stage, and then go straight to deep stage ALL AT ONCE! If you do everyone will know you are a rank amateur

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby foss » September 1st, 2013, 12:29 am

honda hoe wrote:Nice pics cycles


X2.. very nice indeed

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby wagonrunner » September 1st, 2013, 12:57 am

when you plagiarize text, it's good etiquette to post the source.
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Track%20Etiquitte%20Tech%20Tips.htm

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby Sinister_Audio » September 1st, 2013, 1:55 am

wagonrunner wrote:when you plagiarize text, it's good etiquette to post the source.
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Track%20Etiquitte%20Tech%20Tips.htm



:lol: schooled!


btw.... video update:


Boost Factory's 2JZ S14, Fastest Car for the day: 9.37 seconds


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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby 4everstock » September 1st, 2013, 7:29 am

wagonrunner wrote:when you plagiarize text, it's good etiquette to post the source.
http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Track%20Etiquitte%20Tech%20Tips.htm




noted......but tried to compile (and tweak) info to direct at our racers so that we can eliminate some of the problems that we are experiencing and help make everyone better

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing TODAY/NOW! Updates @ Camden Live

Postby 333halfevil » September 1st, 2013, 8:30 am

4everstock wrote:Drag Strip Info and Etiquette

Staging:

Watch the track officials, do not move until they motion you forward. You should keep your AC off in the staging lanes, it will drip water that will get on tires and ruin traction. Your windows should be closed (and parking lights on if it is nighttime) as you approach the starting line.

As you approach the starting area, you will reach the "water box", an area that is kept wet by track officials. If you have street tires, drive around the water. You may back up a little to straighten the car out and get your rear tires onto the damp area just past the water box. If you drive through the water, your tread will spread the water into the starting area and other competitors will hate you for it! The water is there to allow cars with race tires to do a proper "burn out". Street tired cars should not do a big smoky burnout. The rubber in street tires is designed to operate best at typical ambient temperatures. The tires get slipperier, not stickier, when they get too hot. Just wait for the official to give you the signal to advance to the starting line. At that point, just briefly spin the tires while you accelerate out of the damp area and pull up to the lights. If your car is an automatic, hold the brakes on while you press down on the accelerator and your wheels should spin when you release the brake. For a stick shift, just bring the revs up and "pop" the clutch to get your wheels to spin for a few revolutions.


The "Christmas Tree"

The start of a drag race is controlled by the "Christmas tree", often called just the "tree". It has multicolored starting lights and the name comes from these. On each competitors side are seven lights: two small yellow lights at the top of the fixture, followed in descending order by three larger yellow lights, then a green and a red bulb. Two light beams cross the starting-line area and are wired to the Christmas tree and electronic timers. When the front tires of a vehicle break the first light beam, called the pre-stage beam, the top yellow light (pre-stage light) illuminates and indicates that the car is approximately seven inches from the starting line.

Rolling further forward into the stage beam causes the second yellow light (the stage light) to illuminate, indicating that the vehicle is ready to race. When both vehicles are staged, the starter will activate the tree, and each driver will focus on the three large amber lights on his side of the tree. The three large yellow light will illuminate consecutively 0.500sec (1/2 second) apart, followed in 0.500sec by the green light. This sequence of lights is called a "full tree". There is also a "pro tree" in which all three yellow lights illuminate for 0.400sec. As a newcomer you will want a full tree.


The Starting Line

As you approach the starting line, watch the starter and the "tree" as you creep forward. When the top yellow light illuminates, you are "pre-staged". If you are first to the line, wait for the other car to pre-stage before you "stage". To stage, advance just a little further until the second yellow comes on. If you go too far, first the top and then the second light will go out. If that happens, back up past the line and creep forward again until both lights are illuminated. You are not yet ready for the controversial technique of "deep staging" where up pull far enough forward to extinguish the first light but still leave the second light illuminated. After both cars have staged, the tree will start. Each of the three main yellow lights will come on in succession 0.5sec apart. You should launch when the last yellow illuminates, the green light will illuminate 0.5sec later and you need to anticipate this to get close to the perfect 0.500sec reaction time. If your reaction time is less than 0.500sec you have "red lighted". You can still make your pass for testing purposes, but you have lost the race unless your competitor red lights first!



Here’s some more Drag 'Racing' etiquette that should be noted:
1) Do not start your burnout while the guy in front of you is still staging.
2) Unless you have a car that seriously needs to lay down a rubber strip, do not pretend like you are John Force and do a burnout through the timing lights.
3) Do not sit in the staging lanes with your a/c running.
4) DO NOT DOUBLE BULB your opponent. Some of you might be scratching your head as to what I mean. (I actually watched quite a few people do this quite often) Let me break it down as to what you're suppose to do:
A) Pull up to the line and roll into the first bulb.
B) Sit there and WAIT.
C) Do not pull forward yet.
D) Sit there and WAIT.
E) Do not pull forward yet. You should still only have one bulb lit up.
F) Now you see his bulb come on.
G) You are NOW allowed to pull forward.


I don't care if you have a turbo and need to start spooling it up. I don't care if you need to purge your nitrous. I don't care if you have a Transbrake and want to get ready. Whatever you have going on inside your car really makes no difference. DO NOT DOUBLE BULB your opponent.

However, if you are the Second car... and you see that your opponent already has one bulb lit up... you are permitted to pull forward into both bulbs... But, only if the other guy already has one bulb lit up. In other words, if you are the second car pulling in, you don't have to pull into one bulb, then wait for his second, then pull into your second. (That's typically what I do, but you don't have to). If he already has one bulb lit, he's telling you he's ready so you can stage however you like.

5) Do not be unsportsmanlike and takes forever to stage. You see the other guy's ONE bulb is lit up. You should be ready to go... pull forward.
6) Do not try to 'burn down' the other guy. What this means is... you've activated one bulb, your opponent has both bulbs activated and he's over there on his two-step or Tbrake, and you're just buying time pulling forward with the purpose of hoping his tranny gets hot, etc.

Can you tell I don't like it when people DOUBLE BULB the other guy? In a true sanctioned race (and if the starter is doing what he's suppose to), if you pull up and double bulb... the starter will walk over to you and tell you to back up and re-stage 'properly'.

Please feel free to add to the list. The purpose of this thread is to educate those that were never taught proper drag racing etiquette.

(addition:)
The Courtesy stage
In drag racing your car there is a thing we call courtesy stage. What this means in the nut shell is, the first car to the line. Pulls up far enough to light the PRE STAGE BULBS ONLY! Then WAITS for the other driver to do likewise. Don’t just go roaring up to the line, light the pre stage, the stage, and then go straight to deep stage ALL AT ONCE! If you do everyone will know you are a rank amateur



Good read & good info, but i'm sure many ppl wouldn't take the time to actually read & understand what was stated.

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing Saturday Results & Competition tomor

Postby dragaholic » September 1st, 2013, 12:40 pm

Also majority of the racers there don't come on this site

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Re: TTUNDRA Drag Racing Saturday Results & Competition tomor

Postby Sinister_Audio » September 1st, 2013, 1:38 pm

Omar's Evo 3: 10.1

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