1az rebuild jk

[kurpal_v2]

Need to replace a 1az from my rav4 but having a hard time finding a replacement engine.


A foreign used placed got a couple of the engines but the engine they have has a secondary fuel pump at the top of it and the guys said the accelerator is electronic. My oem engine doesn't have the pump and my accelerator is cable, I believe.



What you guys think are my options here?

Should I take the foreign used engine and "work it up" if possible? Can I convert from electronic to cable or vice versa? I was told by the guys at the place I won't get "warranty" from them on the engine if I convert anything.

Should I drop the oem engine and do a rebuild? Oem engine was neglected, sludge build up and now the bearing knocked like a Jehovah's Witness before the engine cuts off.

Should I swap for a 2az? Dunno if it will mount to my transmission but I saw one that I was told was "cable" accelerator.


And since wen yota engines cost a premium so, $14 freaking grand without a transmission

[turbohead]

you talking about the aca21 rav 4 you have. there are gdi versions in this model. a rebuild should cost like 20k or so

[Ted_v2]

14k?
O__O

[toyolink]

A 1azfe and 1azfse rebuild estimate runs something like this:
-original parts including rings,con-rod &mn bearings $6800
-Machine shop -$200-$1500 depending on cutting to be done.
-Consumerable (oil,filters,coolant etc) $1500-$2000
-Labour $3800.
Estimated total $14000.
This is using Toyota branded parts.

[turbohead]

these engines hav a tendency to damage the threads on removal of the head bolts...

[kurpal_v2]

A 1azfe and 1azfse rebuild estimate runs something like this:
-original parts including rings,con-rod &mn bearings $6800
-Machine shop -$200-$1500 depending on cutting to be done.
-Consumerable (oil,filters,coolant etc) $1500-$2000
-Labour $3800.
Estimated total $14000.
This is using Toyota branded parts.

That really not bad estimate, the machine shop fee would be reduced cause of my access to such labour and I have 90% of the consumables.

[toyolink]

these engines hav a tendency to damage the threads on removal of the head bolts...

Yep this engine and the 3zzfe for some reason sometimes create real difficulties with head bolts when taking apart engine.
I know of a few engines where machine shop work was required to facilitate reinstallation of head bolts.

[kurpal_v2]

It have anyway to avoid damaging the threads? Or it's a 50/50 chance?


Hoping I could find time to take apart the engine this weekend.

[toyolink]

I dont believe there is much more you can do but use the proper fitment tool which allows you to exert the proper torque efficiently to remove the bolts.
I just quickly took a look at the bolt I have instock to confirm that they are 'spline type key fit',therefore ensure your tool is not worn for a proper interface.If your tool is not giving a tight exact fit stand down the exercise until you have a proper one.
The bolts that end up in a welded fit condition between the head and block are normally removed after achieving a proper fit and application of above normal torque.
What causes all hell to break free is normally worn tool of inferior quality where the tool starts to cut the bolt head and then all kinds of none spec. homemade solutions are applied.
The experience referred to herein is not the norm and you may very well have a easy time at it.

[nervewrecker]

You finally spoil it.

[Mr. Fixables]

A 1az and 2az would compatable and should be a direct swap. It would also work with your transmission as well.

Kirk

[black start]

time to install that sr20 that you always wanted

[Ted_v2]

time to install that sr20 that you always wanted

[Notorious Scullman]

Trying to help someone with the same engine in a RAV 4 making exactly the same noise.

[kurpal_v2]

Trying to help someone with the same engine in a RAV 4 making exactly the same noise.

A knocking while reving?


Upon closer inspection my engine went due to sludge buildup which clogged holes in the engine and "starved" oil at points.


I am going forward with a rebuild option ATM since I can't get a direct drop in. Toyolink hands down is the most knowledgeable person on this motor and has been quite helpful every step of the way so I'd recommend giving him a call if you decided to go the rebuild route.

Rockauto.com has the parts but by time they are cleared the cost is just a few hundred off the oem toyota replacements from toyolink.

[cinco]

Was there ever a recall on this engine? Toyota engines of that era had known sludge issues a la 1zz

[kurpal_v2]

So guys, finished the rebuild on this engine yesterday, wasn't around for the first start up but the engine runs smooth.


Two things I noticed however when I took it from my mechanic:

1. The engine feels like its running a bit hotter, maybe it was just me but I noticed that.

2. When I step on the accelerator I notice a lot of blue smoke. Then van only drove from the mechanic to my house (5km on odometer) but that smoke has me abit worried.

[Hook]

The smoke is worrisome, but it would depend on the installation method used for the pistons.
Some mechanics use WD-40, some just smear the mating surfaces with break-in oil and some literally dunk the pistons in oil before installing.
A common practice as well, is to pour a cap of oil down into the spark plug holes prior to the first start-up. Either way, there'll be a bit of oil to blow out, but it's not supposed to be excessive, which could suggest something is supplying the combustion chamber with oil.
If it persists, take it back and have the mechanic give it a once-over and a compression test to be certain.

The heat is not a big deal. It would appear to run a tad hotter because of the excess friction of the rough-honed cylinder walls and the bedding-in process, but a proper cooling system with a functional thermostat isn't supposed to go past a set temperature anyway. Just make sure your cooling system is in excellent working order.

[cinco]

is it consistent smoke or smoke on idle or when u press hard does it go away?
could also be badly installed valve seals

[kurpal_v2]

Well today I only drove the van for 10km, noticed the smoking was less but still there when I rev (tried adhering to under 2000rpm and no hill eh hook but in my area is either or ) Ill try to find out more from the mech when I can, his methods can be mango treeish at times (removed my thermostat and insisted its a waste of time then said I have to replace it, iLoled )

Yesterday it was smoking on idle, today it's nothing noticeable on idle, only when I rev a bit hard.

Saturday ill be back with the van, hopefully after the first oil change things change. Currently on NP ultra 10w30 might change it to something easier to find.

Incase I need a compression and leak down test done, who is recommended in the south?

[toyolink]

I would hold on the compression test for a bit and run the vehicle using 'break-in procedure' since this might be entrained burn-off.
Yes,this is a nervous time,but give the job the benefit of positive thinking.
You may also have to test the emission to confirm if its not excess fuel dump as a result of ignition/combustion issues at low rpm.
Easy does it.
Remember the vehicle was down for quite a while and ecu and other sensors may not as yet reached optimum operating settings.

[Hook]

Yeah, drive it around some more. 10km at <2000rpm won't push that oil out. Like I said, if it persists, have your mechanic look it over.
When did he advise you to do the first oil change?

[kurpal_v2]

He was suggesting we run the vehicle for 50km but I'm cutting that to the 30km you suggested, just for ease of mind

[Hook]

yeah, mine suggested 100km but I ain't about dat life. The majority of the metal filings from a fresh break-in happen at the first 50km or so, and oil plenty cheaper than a rebuild.
I can't remember the timeline, but let's say I picked up my car on a Wednesday evening, by Friday morning I changed oil.

[Notorious Scullman]

The one I was asking about, overheated on a Mayaro run. Pulled dipstick, showed no oil. Thought it was an oil leak, but wasn't seeing any drips.
Found oil, topped up, about 2.5 quarts, continued driving, knocking started, then temp rose again.
Let it cool down, checked oil, it was ok. Drove the rest of the way.
Let vehicle stand over night. Checked oil next morning, it was low, but no sign of leaks.
Topped up oil, drove back from Mayaro. Started to overheat in POS, checked oil, topped up.
Took to mechanic next morning. He found almost 4 qts of excess oil.
He thought the filter was faulty (I realised later it was sludge) Mild knocking was now permanent, vehicle ran for a couple months, then just gave in one day one the Beetham

Been parked for about 3 months. It start, but just idles for 10 seconds, then stalls.

Are there any swaps available at all?

[toyolink]

Have things settled down with the breaking-in period?

[trinigamer]

a 2AZ-FE head and block is a bolt for bolt swap for the 1AZ-FE.

[kurpal_v2]

Have things settled down with the breaking-in period?

Not quite, luckily I had a friend bring the oils pump in for me, changed that and now I'm in a different predicament.


Now when I start the engine knocks upon start up (from the bottom of the block) and smokes for about 20mins. When I rev beyond 3000rpm knocking also starts.


My mechanic says he suspects it is the block being improperly honed and us causing oil to "run back" so #3&4 cylinder is dry at start up but the guys who did the work for me have never failed me in the past 10yrs on our equipment engines so idk what to believe. He also suggesting that I should drive the van and let the carbon build up so it could help the ring seat better.

Idk how much I trust this guy at this point tbh so my van is at home with brand new parts and same problems.

[Hook]

Ugh. So brand new cars hafta "let the carbon build up" ? What a load of horseshit.

Likely you need to replace bearings now, and I suspect bad installation (too much crush? wrong bearing?). Hopefully the crank is fine.

When you scrap the bottom end, see if there are digits stamped near the front of the engine.
Some Toyota engines don't have standard or oversized bearings but grades from one through four. The number stamp indicates what grade goes where. Mine was all 2's for main and rod bearings so I was lucky.

[kurpal_v2]

Hopefully the crank is fine indeed. If there is any damage to that I'd really be in sheit street seeing as I previously cut that.



Looking around for a new mechanic ATM while my funds regenerate. Right now I'm about $16k deep and ain't seeing the light at the end yet



Hook I remember seeing mine with the 1-4 markings, can't remember where that was though.