Accelaration Problem with AC on

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 17th, 2010, 7:44 pm

no hoss the only real difference other than some minor ones between the zm & Zl is the stroke the bore is the same as the zl pistons basically the same rod crank i think are different

s.serty · Postby **s.serty** » February 17th, 2010, 9:48 pm

have a 2000 BJ engine auto wagon for 3yrs currently 170000 sorry to say

and it working best!!!!!!!!!! hill climbing easy A/C on 4...no mods ...2nd owner proper oil changes and no worries, lookin to sell som time....i'm just a owner maybe the gas cable slack or it stretch....hence not enough gas opening to climb hill especially with A/C..e.g my rpm needle when n neutral does b jus a point below 1000rpm...Secondly, check belt tension

Groovemaster · Postby **Groovemaster** » February 25th, 2010, 7:41 pm

Changed the knock sensor today. I must say my car feels alive again........getting my 'kick down' again!!! SS have it for $751.
Part # ZL02-18-921

Wildcard26 · Postby **Wildcard26** » February 25th, 2010, 7:58 pm

Thanks for that info man. I feel I might need to change mine.

libra · Postby **libra** » February 25th, 2010, 9:21 pm

Groovemaster u kno the prices of the other sensors by chance ..... and coil packs ?

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 25th, 2010, 9:26 pm

coil packs $1,600.00 cam sensor $600.00 cam sensor same thing might be 700.00 airflow $1,600.00 last time i checked

villain · Postby **villain** » February 25th, 2010, 9:35 pm

you all check outside the firm for these items?
a knock sensor didnt cost me that much by checks ....

libra · Postby **libra** » February 25th, 2010, 9:37 pm

ouch

tanks fer d info man

FullStop · Postby **FullStop** » February 25th, 2010, 9:38 pm

red bwoy wrote:coil packs $1,600.00 cam sensor $600.00 cam sensor same thing might be 700.00 airflow $1,600.00 last time i checked

thank God u not driving a royal saloon,a friend of mine needed one for his royal and toyota told hin $10500

villain · Postby **villain** » February 26th, 2010, 6:12 am

it cheaper to get an aftermarket coil relocation kit and do away with the coil packs....cant remember what it is they using, but you not using back your coils i think....
secondly somebody see if they can get the coils from foreign and the maf sensors from the 1.8 toyota engine or celica 2000+ engine

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 26th, 2010, 8:40 am

i using the 1zzfe air flow right now works fine no probs would really like to find out about the coil relocation kit as i've realised the coil packs on the vvt are an issue they get burned easily at high revs

villain · Postby **villain** » February 26th, 2010, 3:59 pm

use some heat wrap between the engine and the coil pack and tell me how it work :mrgreen:

it seem to be the heat killing the coils and them

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 26th, 2010, 4:35 pm

you might have to show me a pic of that i getting a new problem now when iver its hot out and i running the ac after a few minutes the engine starts to malfunction it will drive on the highway normal but as i stop at a light or park up the idle goes haywire i'm going to trouble shoot tonight change water in the rad add some coolant and water wetter clean maf sensor and throttle body see what gives cleaned the k&n already is just to put it back in

villain · Postby **villain** » February 26th, 2010, 7:13 pm

dont just change it flush it....and are you using 10w 30 in your engine?
i want to know because i fraid to use that thin oil....you know im a hybrid now...zl-v head with zm block :mrgreen:

...right now im trying the 5w 50...

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 26th, 2010, 7:56 pm

well i usually flush with plain water anyways fraid them flush chemical an my engine i been using 10w 30 since about two months after i got my car no probs its actually recommended in the FSM for the zm and fs engines

nareshseep · Postby **nareshseep** » February 26th, 2010, 8:02 pm

villain wrote:dont just change it flush it....and are you using 10w 30 in your engine?
i want to know because i fraid to use that thin oil....you know im a hybrid now...zl-v head with zm block ...right now im trying the 5w 50...

how dat pulling breds?

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 26th, 2010, 8:27 pm

i drove my friends own before he turbo it and it used to pull nice with the original tranny worse for a zl-ve gearbox that will move my thinking is that it will add some torque to the mix and a lot more top end with the vvt HP might not change much imho

libra · Postby **libra** » February 26th, 2010, 10:18 pm

hmm dem makin frankenstein wid mazda now

villain · Postby **villain** » February 27th, 2010, 2:59 pm

the top end ent change much...but it have more torque low down...it pulling good but i still feel i have problems...we suspect the wiring bad or the harness could be bad...then im not using the recommended oil...i fraid it burn out and i spin bearings.....again...so i working my way down...next i'll try 10w 40....but the 20w 50 is really too thick for it....since i down to 5w all cold start up noises cease....
and for some reason my car runs faster with the a/c on than with out????? wiring problems?????

villain · Postby **villain** » February 27th, 2010, 3:00 pm

libra wrote:hmm dem makin frankenstein wid mazda now

baby frank. give me a few more months i'll bore out my spare zm block to a 1.7 with high compression pistons.....with the zl-ve head....

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 27th, 2010, 3:09 pm

i still get a little rattle of the intake cam on cold start but 20w 50 is mud in da engine in truth villain u using management right if so some of your maps might be off if not get a zlve manual brain and harness an try that oui :?:

libra · Postby **libra** » February 27th, 2010, 3:14 pm

nice !! yuh gonna leave d normal 323 men in the dust

villain · Postby **villain** » February 28th, 2010, 1:56 am

nah not using the management and the funny thing i have a manual engine and harness but only an automatic brain working...i have the manual brain but it hesitating when i try it...it feels like boost lag and then surge everything i shift gears...so i dunno what could be wrong and honestly i fed up trying...my car working and i feel i'll leave it alone....aye how much you get out of your car ...i only bouncing on 180 and i sounding like it want to go more but it just staying there

red bwoy · Postby **red bwoy** » February 28th, 2010, 6:00 am

same here i might just take a lil longer to reach than you but 180 it is and then speed cut comes on i hoping the hks speed cut defencer i taking from a friend will work still trying to get the wiring diagram for the zl-ve to try something oui

villain · Postby **villain** » February 28th, 2010, 9:29 am

yeah i saw one for the zl-ve by hks

nareshseep · Postby **nareshseep** » February 28th, 2010, 1:07 pm

villain wrote:
libra wrote:hmm dem makin frankenstein wid mazda now

baby frank. give me a few more months i'll bore out my spare zm block to a 1.7 with high compression pistons.....with the zl-ve head....

I see someone was talking to BK

villain · Postby **villain** » March 1st, 2010, 12:31 am

nope ...bk will tell you buy a sport20... :mrgreen:

Wildcard26 · Postby **Wildcard26** » March 1st, 2010, 7:00 am

True True..lol

nareshseep · Postby **nareshseep** » June 30th, 2010, 11:07 pm

villain wrote:the top end ent change much...but it have more torque low down...it pulling good but i still feel i have problems...we suspect the wiring bad or the harness could be bad...then im not using the recommended oil...i fraid it burn out and i spin bearings.....again...so i working my way down...next i'll try 10w 40....but the 20w 50 is really too thick for it....since i down to 5w all cold start up noises cease....
and for some reason my car runs faster with the a/c on than with out????? wiring problems?????

villain I experience that with my car also, so I guess thats normal and my car stock.