Problem....

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 4:49 pm

nono in the mitsibishi CB models itÂ´s below

the second dotted on is its position now...

Mr. Red Sleeper · Postby **Mr. Red Sleeper** » December 29th, 2006, 4:54 pm

is the clutch fork and slave cylinder supposed to be connected?

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » December 29th, 2006, 4:54 pm

what kinda car he have?

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » December 29th, 2006, 4:57 pm

slave cylinder need to be bolted to the gearbox, usually two bolts. slave cylinder has a rounded pin that presses the fork arm. not really connected but touching.

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 4:57 pm

Mr. Red Sleeper wrote:is the clutch fork and slave cylinder supposed to be connected?

the pin for the slave cylinder should be onto the fork.....and the fork should be leaning towards the pin.

And as Krakle Korn said, it bolts onto the box....

krack korn he has a CB lancer wagon

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » December 29th, 2006, 4:59 pm

^k, thanx

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » December 29th, 2006, 5:05 pm

so it look like the fork arm come out of position? it has probably sliped out of its upper bearing point. that would explain why its not fully disengaging although he got the clutch to mash all the way down.

mishi do you know if the fork arm is connected to the fork in this gearbox via a pin or a splined shaft?

is the slave cylinder firmly attached to the gearbox?

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 5:10 pm

ok no sorry....I have been looking at it wrong sleeperÂ´s pic.

The image red sleeper put at position c is the correct position.....it should be resting on the pin of the slave cylinder.

Could definately mean that the slave cylinder is damaged....

It would explain the fluid loss as well....

Try replacing the rubber on the slave cylinder

Krackle Korn, the fork extensions on the CB lancer are part of the fork itself

and yeah the cylinder is attatched to the gearbox

TRINIOUTLAW · Postby **TRINIOUTLAW** » December 29th, 2006, 5:19 pm

X2 wrote:I'm interested to find out why your idle is being affected by the clutch ?

Mr. Red Sleeper · Postby **Mr. Red Sleeper** » December 29th, 2006, 5:21 pm

MISHI just resting on the pin?
cause thats whats happening ..i can seperate the two pices with my hand is what im saying.

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 5:25 pm

that shouldnÂ´t be....if the pin is loose in the slave cylinder that may be the problem. It means as others have said not enough pressure to disengage the clutch. is it leaking around the boot of the cylinder?

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 5:28 pm

use this as a reference...

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » December 29th, 2006, 5:34 pm

Mr. Red Sleeper, its normal to have a little play, the arm should be held onto the slave cylinder pin by a small spring, this keeps the release bearing off the PP until you mash the clutch.

Mr. Red Sleeper · Postby **Mr. Red Sleeper** » December 29th, 2006, 5:37 pm

ok no leaking at all around any rubers cylinder etc. A little play is an understatement.
Im saying that im holdin the faork arm at leat 3inches away from the slave and am able to press with my hand the slave until its totally inside the bell housing

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 5:37 pm

no I think itÂ´s on a pin....

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » December 29th, 2006, 5:41 pm

3" seems a bit much.

youre saying that you can press what till it is in the bell housing? the slave cylinder? or the fork arm?

if you can press the pin back into the slave cylinder that is not a problem.

Postby **MISHI** » December 29th, 2006, 5:43 pm

Mr. Red Sleeper wrote:ok no leaking at all around any rubers cylinder etc. A little play is an understatement.
Im saying that im holdin the faork arm at leat 3inches away from the slave and am able to press with my hand the slave until its totally inside the bell housing

OOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

pull down box......No more to say... internal problem.

pressure plate damage or clutch disc as I said earlier, in addition to krakle kornÂ´s possibility of the fork itself..

either way, you hadda take it down.... buy all those things new one time (clutch etc)

i hope i donÂ´t have this problem when I put in the 93T

Mr. Red Sleeper · Postby **Mr. Red Sleeper** » December 29th, 2006, 5:49 pm

krack korn,

Yes....

MISHI,
Ordered the parts already anyway....figured as much....dont want to have to go back into the box for a while, so everything will be new!

Thanks guys!

horsepwrjunki · Postby **horsepwrjunki** » December 29th, 2006, 6:32 pm

.. bring it over.. thsisoundin familair.. i has some issues with teh f5m22as well like that...

Mr. Red Sleeper · Postby **Mr. Red Sleeper** » December 29th, 2006, 6:36 pm

its comin..... :lol:

horsepwrjunki · Postby **horsepwrjunki** » December 29th, 2006, 7:22 pm

.. thats what they all say...

DriFT_KiNG · Postby **DriFT_KiNG** » January 3rd, 2007, 9:40 am

ey fellas i don't mean to hijack the thread but i getting a kinda similar problem.
i just change clutch and pressure plate and getting some shudder when taking off in first gear. now i getting some grating when changing gears what could be the cause ????

Postby **MISHI** » January 3rd, 2007, 3:36 pm

Was the clutch aligned to the flywheel properly?

You may have to do the basics...

Check the system for leakage.

If not that, you will have to pull the box down and recheck the clutch or pres. plate

krack korn · Postby **krack korn** » January 4th, 2007, 11:17 am

DriFT_KiNG, First check your clutch free play, a simple adjustment may save you some stress, sounds like the clutch isn't properly disengaging when changing gears.

How far down are you mashing before you start to feel resistance on the pedal?

The shudder on first could be a number of things, clutch material, absorber material, rubber or spring, incorrect clutch for your vehicle. Break it in first and see. Does the clutch seem fiercer than before or softer?

SmokeyGTi · Postby **SmokeyGTi** » January 4th, 2007, 6:08 pm

1. start the car in neutral
2. mash the clutch - any problems/difference?
3. try to put in 1st gear (do not lift the clutch pedal yet) - does your idle drop? any grating sound?
4. then release the clutch slowly and see wht resolts you getting

do it in statges and let us know what goin on
i still think you need a new clutch and pressure plate

DriFT_KiNG · Postby **DriFT_KiNG** » January 5th, 2007, 10:51 am

GTI : ITS A BRAND NEW CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE BRO

Mr. Red Sleeper · Postby **Mr. Red Sleeper** » January 29th, 2007, 10:12 am

Well, took down the box.
MISHI,
It appears you were right to a point.The fork is secured to the release bearing with a pin.The pin came out in my hand while doing EARLY investigations. :shock:

You know whats next........

took down the box and was amazed at what i saw.
Because the pin got away, the fork could not put the release bearing in the proper place on the pressure plate. This destroyed the bearing. Now because of the obvious friction between the destroyed bearing and pplate, im sure that ill get an award for the newpplate that i created :lol:

.The heat at the center of the pplates' (leaves if u wish) bent each "leaf" backwards in a uniform manner! Looked like if it was supposed to be this way.....
Ill post the pics soon.

Everyone i went by with it including horsepwrjunki, was startled at the fact that i was even able to drive like this .Even for a little while.

But all in all , it gave me a better understanding and respect for the gearbox, cause i did most of the work myself...

cheers! :lol:

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