When is the best time to check your engine oil to get a good reading?

[aaron17]

I always don't check it when it reaches operating temperature even though the manual says it. Only cold.
What is the purpose of checking it at operating temperature? Even if we are in a warm climate?

[teems1]

When the car is on, the oil is being pumped around the engine/header/turbo etc.

You need to measure it cold when it's all in the pan to get an accurate reading.

[Xplode]

When the car is on, the oil is being pumped around the engine/header/turbo etc.

You need to measure it cold when it's all in the pan to get an accurate reading.

Also on a level ground .

[VexXx Dogg]

Cold engine, level ground.
Check the other fluids as yuh there one time

[ruffrider27]

Just did my 100,000 km tune up on my 2014 Corolla , with the North American climate recommend oil 0W20 should be checked cold on a level ground ,mostly new cars with CVT transmissions it’s sealed so checking it’s not an option , changed out the stock rotors for the DS one brand drilled slotted coated with the Bosch Quietcast disc pads , service the calliper pins, new shims and clips new huge difference in stopping power .


Brake rotors 100,000 KM passed tru 8 winter seasons all the salt and abuse .

[MG Man]

cold, with max oil in the sump, level ground
SO I check first thing in the morning
If for example you're checking after an oil change / top-up etc, 10 minutes after adding oil or switching off the engine should do

[hindian]

Cold, on level ground. I suppose the other follow up question might be how often should you check your oil?

[aaron17]

I does check it once a month just for sake. If I see any drop for no reason , I does check it once a week just to monitor the drop.

[Mercenary]

every morning .

[agent007]

It also depends on the vehicle you drive and the age of the engine. Some engines consume oil which is normal operation like some boxer and rotary engines.

Do some research so you would know if your engine is more at risk to oil burn or not. It is important to pour the correct viscosity/body as per manufacturer specs.

0W-20 and 5W-30 are common for most new/modern fuel injected, direct injected, forced induction and hybrid vehicles.

Recently a particular dealership poured 10W-30 in a new turbocharged engine doing 20,000kms. After 2 months, I decided to check the dipstick and saw that almost half the oil was burnt. The dealership's response to this was basically to doh hot yuh head cause if the engine mash up, they would replace it for free since I have evidence that they did the wrong thing.

Again I underscore, make sure the correct body is poured into your engine. These modern engines with sophisticated valve timing systems, twin cam heads and 4 valve per cylinder etc require proper lubrication and pouring thick oil into the engine would not help it at all.

Stop driving off as soon as you cold start the engine. Let the operating temperature regularize first and allow the oil to properly reach the head before you simply drive off hard or start to rev up etc.

If you're lucky enough to have a 4E-FE, 5A/4A-FE, 1G-FE, 1/2JZ-GE, GA15/16DE, SR18/20DE, RB20/25DE, 4G63, B16A and K20A then kindly ignore. We understand those engines can run like Swiss watches even if you pour sand and water in them lol.

[Sundar]

cold, with max oil in the sump, level ground
SO I check first thing in the morning
If for example you're checking after an oil change / top-up etc, 10 minutes after adding oil or switching off the engine should do

i usually start n as the oil light switches off(oil pressure sufficient) i switch off and check again. Reason being the new oil filter has to fill. Some filters can be filled before attaching it depending on position.

[hindian]

I check every morning because the habit stuck with me from driving ole car. A quick check of all fluids and belts and a general glance over is enough to settle my mind on wifey car especially and she drives the newer one lol.

[Chimera]

D bess time to check is when the the oil light come on and yuh see smoke coming from under the bonnet.

[Mercenary]

D bess time to check is when the the oil light come on and yuh see smoke coming from under the bonnet.

[rollingstock]

I does check oil on my sloped driveway whilst idling so I could play mih Skeng X Sparta. Once I see a lil oil on the dipstick it have enough.
If there's no reading that is a reminder that I should probably change that pcv valve that stuck open in 2015 and it's time for an oil change. Drain and dump the whole gallon till next 5-6k Kms

[ProtonPowder]

Once the car switched off for at least 5-10 mins, all the oil should be returned to the oil pan and it good to check.
Oil volume doesnt change much with temps, the viscosity does.

[Dave]

Oil....wuz dat?

[bluefete]

As we on the oil topic - a question:

My very experienced mechanic recently suggested that I use 15-40 oil for my 15 year old Toyota. He said it is used in diesel cars but its viscosity is quite good.

I have used 10-30 oil from ever since - manufacturer recommended. Car is roro.

Should I go with his suggestion?

[rollingstock]

Why? What's his reasoning?
If the vehicle was maintained in a timely manner I see no reason to stray from manufacturers recommended body oil

[bluefete]

Why? What's his reasoning?
If the vehicle was maintained in a timely manner I see no reason to stray from manufacturers recommended body oil

He said that 15-40 oil takes longer to break down and as the car is about 15years, it is time to look at oil suitable for older cars.

[Dave]

If there is no burning then remain with the body currently being used.

[bluefete]

If there is no burning then remain with the body currently being used.

Thank you. I think the sump is quite icky from the oil not being changed on time.

[DMan7]

Like this?

[kamakazi]

I check the oil level after starting it for 2 minutes, then switching off and letting it sit for at least 5.

My vehicle will gladly show full when stone cold with 6 quarts but it will be in the bottom quarter of the dipstick after it is checked minutes after it was run

In terms of frequency... I check it just before I planned for it to be changed or when the vehicle sounds or responds differently(engine wise)

Stick with what works for you yes. Diesel oil isn't the best for gas engine cars; it will work... But it probably isn't a good long term solution.

[hindian]

D bess time to check is when the the oil light come on and yuh see smoke coming from under the bonnet.

I had a friend who used to do that with an RD1 CRV despite me telling her that that is not how it works. Sold it eventually cuz the engine developed a knock lol

[shake d livin wake d dead]

It also depends on the vehicle you drive and the age of the engine. Some engines consume oil which is normal operation like some boxer and rotary engines.

Do some research so you would know if your engine is more at risk to oil burn or not. It is important to pour the correct viscosity/body as per manufacturer specs.

0W-20 and 5W-30 are common for most new/modern fuel injected, direct injected, forced induction and hybrid vehicles.

Recently a particular dealership poured 10W-30 in a new turbocharged engine doing 20,000kms. After 2 months, I decided to check the dipstick and saw that almost half the oil was burnt. The dealership's response to this was basically to doh hot yuh head cause if the engine mash up, they would replace it for free since I have evidence that they did the wrong thing.

Again I underscore, make sure the correct body is poured into your engine. These modern engines with sophisticated valve timing systems, twin cam heads and 4 valve per cylinder etc require proper lubrication and pouring thick oil into the engine would not help it at all.

Stop driving off as soon as you cold start the engine. Let the operating temperature regularize first and allow the oil to properly reach the head before you simply drive off hard or start to rev up etc.

If you're lucky enough to have a 4E-FE, 5A/4A-FE, 1G-FE, 1/2JZ-GE, GA15/16DE, SR18/20DE, RB20/25DE, 4G63, B16A and K20A then kindly ignore. We understand those engines can run like Swiss watches even if you pour sand and water in them lol.

Add qd32, 1kd/2kd to that list....some may even argue for qg15 and 1zz

[Dave]

And the almighty Nissan L series.
Qgs and the 1nz are quite good.

[rollingstock]

If there is no burning then remain with the body currently being used.

Thank you. I think the sump is quite icky from the oil not being changed on time.

Why? What's his reasoning?
If the vehicle was maintained in a timely manner I see no reason to stray from manufacturers recommended body oil

He said that 15-40 oil takes longer to break down and as the car is about 15years, it is time to look at oil suitable for older cars.

If there's build up in the sump a 15/40 intended for diesel engines may be his way of dealing with it. Diesel oils have more detergents.

I would drop the sump and give it a clean and do a visual inspection, but most of these mechanics these days are change parts specialist.

[Chimera]

D bess time to check is when the the oil light come on and yuh see smoke coming from under the bonnet.

I had a friend who used to do that with an RD1 CRV despite me telling her that that is not how it works. Sold it eventually cuz the engine developed a knock lol

When u hear a knock in the engine that's the honda genie asking to be let out

[88sins]

Stick with what works for you yes. Diesel oil isn't the best for gas engine cars; it will work... But it probably isn't a good long term solution.

.
Works really well, especially for cleaning and flushing gunk out of older engines and freeing up parts that can start moving a bit sluggish when varnish starts to build up, like valves and lifters. Would not recommend using it consistently as a replacement for the vehicles recommended oil, but it does have a benefit to using it.