well i been reading and i see some tuners asking if box bracing is really necessary and if it makes a difference, well today i built a pair of boxes to see for myself.
each box was 1.7cuft(excluding port and brace displacement),tuned to 35hz and 24si port and the normal box was just built to 1.7cuft not including the braces(basically a normal ported box)
the test speakers were a pair of audiopipe ts-od10's which i paid $250 for one.specs-
dual 4ohm
2" 4 layer coil
350wpeak
125wrms
the amp used was a lighten audio strike 300.2 specs(rated at 14.4v i belive)-
100wrms x 2 @ 4ohms
150wrms x 2 @ 2ohms
300wrms x 1 @ 4ohms bridged
200wrms x 1 @ 8ohms bridged
car was a the 2000 almera,80amp alternator and a big 3 upgrade running on 14.7v and 1 normal water battery upfront and a optima yellowtop at the back,backseat was up(can't move) and center was down
the first box was braced from the baffle board to the rear wall and the top to the bottom each crossing at a t in the center and the port was also braced to the baffle
the second box was built to just the 1.7 including driver displacement and excluding port and brace displacement (remember there was no bracing)
results-(used maddonna power of goodbuy,som bass tests)
regular ported box-
results were as expected,lows down to the lower 30's ,but the box walls were vibrating.
braced box-
the bass seemed stronger in the lower notes and more firm, the walls had not much vibration as compared to the regular box
the bass actually sounded more controlled and had a slightly higher output and the box was notably more solid and as expected heavier
conclusion-
boxes should be braced,it actually helps with box response and overall output,remember energy is never destroyed,it is merly transfered from one form to another,what you loose in sound,u gain in vibration which for your trunk and box is a bad thing
so i have concluded that to achive more bass,you need to stop as much as possible vibration as you can
thanks all for reading,hope u all enjoy and comments are welcome good or bad
