battery recommendations

[xtrail]

my small yellow top optima just died after 2 years. Running a usamps merlin2d (1500 rms) and a usamps xterminator(800 rms) pulling 210 amps in a civic. whats a good battery setup.

[southside connections]

first how large is you alternator? for that install it has to be about anywere from 120-150amps, or you can have a secondary alternator of about 80amps for the rear battery alone. my advice is to place a redtop or regular batt in your bonnet and another yellow top in the trunk with a 1.5-2 farad capcitor and isolator with a 0AWG lead wire then branch off from there

[- Rovin's car audio -]

these days every1 saying how kinetics r d bess drycells out there but its a bit pricey so if u have d $ - go for it ...

[xtrail]

got the stock alternator. any recommendations for a good electrician to install a better in a civic

[nigel1977]

you may need to also consider a second battery, as the optima civic batteries are smaller than the regular d34

[SR]

get a higher capacity alternator

and you can go back with a single battery

optima is still a good choice

[damage_control]

optima supposed to be a good battery..like dem fellas say..maybe check out to see if u cud get a better alternator..and i eh sure if you running capacitor..maybe try one a dat too..should help take some strain off the battery

[casper]

first how large is you alternator? for that install it has to be about anywere from 120-150amps, or you can have a secondary alternator of about 80amps for the rear battery alone. my advice is to place a redtop or regular batt in your bonnet and another yellow top in the trunk with a 1.5-2 farad capcitor and isolator with a 0AWG lead wire then branch off from there

^^^nah southside....they ARE the same brand but they are built for 2 COMPLETELY different applications....red top focuses on the cold cranking amp(like if u have a big engine and turbo and whatever)...and the yellowtop focuses on deep cycle capabilities....so they WILL have two different charge and discharge rates SSC......my advise to him is to go as rovin did with a yellowtop d34/78 in the bonnet and another in the trunk.....install together for best experience ...if u install one first and then after about a year...install the other.... then the one that you had b4 life span will differ to the one just bought....therfore this MAY affect the charge and discharge rate of the older one compared to the newer one....i'm not tooooo sure.....


about the alternator....it has an old man in the bamboo that rewires alternators for a reasonable price...see to it and check him before purchasing a high output alt....he is located in the bamboo where bobby's is....NOT the one opposite grand bazaar.....and u have to go STRAIGHT DOWN till u reach the LAST right turn.....take the right and i think he is the last business on the left side.....a small place...old house....he charges like $500 and when dun....u will gain almost an additional 40 amps to ure current alt.....give it a try....its worth it IMO....

ok....so here is what i understand...an ampere hour is the product of the time that a battary can deliver a certain amount of current (in hours) multiplied by that current (in amps) for a particular discharge period...this is one indication of the amount of total energy a battery is able to store and deliver at its rated voltage...In normal automotive service the vehicle's engine-driven alternator powers the vehicle's electrical systems and restores charge used from the battery during engine cranking.....


at 100% charge....approximate open circuit voltage of the battery will be 12.65 volts...at 75%...12.45....at 50%...12.24....at 25%....12.06...and at 0%...11.89 volts....