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The comprehensive 4age thread

It's all about 4AGE, NZE, 3SGTE, 1JZ, 2JZ etc.

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gt4tified
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Postby gt4tified » December 13th, 2009, 9:54 pm

Logan Easton wrote:could nyone link up a mr2 gearbox hopefully lsd..wanna bolt up to a 3sgte..


Bring about $6500 and come. :twisted:

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Postby reddo_tuner » December 14th, 2009, 12:04 am

I saw a blue dx wagon, looked 3sgte powered in Marabella tonight....who might you be? drd3sgte, unless yuh sell the car?

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Postby gt4tified » December 14th, 2009, 9:16 am

reddo, Duane (drd3sgte) has an l-touring wagon. If you're certain it was a dx wagon then it wasn't him. But I hear that putting a 3sgte in the dxwagon is the new in-thing now....4wd madness. :lol:

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Postby reddo_tuner » December 14th, 2009, 10:46 am

gt4tified wrote:reddo, Duane (drd3sgte) has an l-touring wagon. If you're certain it was a dx wagon then it wasn't him. But I hear that putting a 3sgte in the dxwagon is the new in-thing now....4wd madness. :lol:


well not sure, didnt see the front, but the colors look the same and it seems to be the same vehicle

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Postby dmitc » January 4th, 2010, 10:00 am

Hey folks i'm looking for some seals for the oil filter bracket union sub assembly as higlighted in orange and by the arrows

Image
this is what the seal look like the other one smaller and blue
Image
here is where the larger one goes ignore the silicone
Image
and here is where it is on the engine, note where the gray silicone is
Image

I checked TTTL and they did not have nor did anywhere else i checked.
Anyone knows where i can get them. I'm not a fan of silicone so i'm just using it in the interim

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Postby razman292 » January 4th, 2010, 6:21 pm

i second this how an is it possible

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Postby lastminuteaudio » January 4th, 2010, 10:15 pm

fuel pressure regulator, bigger injectors....i jus suggestin, so nobody doh crucify meh!!!

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Postby Zeriam » January 4th, 2010, 10:40 pm

fpr, and 3s or 1jz injectors can work with stock ecu

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Re: WTB a bigger fuel rail for 20valve engine, seeking advic

Postby haydn28 » January 5th, 2010, 9:42 am

branz wrote:WTB a bigger fuel rail for my 20valve engine and also do u need a management system for the increase of fuel or the stock brain cod be tuned for this!


call meh if u serious bout performance 3327056

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Re: WTB a bigger fuel rail for 20valve engine, seeking advic

Postby gt4tified » January 5th, 2010, 5:51 pm

branz wrote:WTB a bigger fuel rail for my 20valve engine and also do u need a management system for the increase of fuel or the stock brain cod be tuned for this!


If the 20v rail is similar at all to the 3sgte rail in terms of how much meat there is, you can bore out the rail to a larger diameter. The 3sgte rail is 4.5mm bore and can be easily bored to 8mm. There is no need to upgrade anything else with this modification, unless your engine requires additional fuel delivery.

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Postby _moti_ » January 6th, 2010, 1:36 pm

so 6 pages and not one comment of a RWD 4AGE 16v. i mean is this engine so scarce?

:x :x :x

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Postby Tsuchiya » January 9th, 2010, 8:48 pm

^^it is hella rare in T&T...
i built a 4ag some years back (RWD) :D ; 16v big port head, a pair of 45 weber carbs, match-porting on intake and exhaust, stock 16v cams, a stock blacktop 20v bottom end complete, MSD coil.
The only down-side I encountered was the power dropping off above 7300 rpm, as a stock 16v would. I suspected the stock cams just couldn't provide the upper rpm breathing, and i never got to try higher lift/duration cams.
But it was an eye-opening combo to say the least. Performance was abit better than a slightly modded 20v silvertop.
In the end, the completed engine worked out to be half the price of a complete silvertop 20v 4ag based on bamboo prices, as the blacktop bottom end was bought as a head and block and 16v heads are virtually being thrown away. Oil consumption was minimal; fuel consumption was pretty damn good for those huge draughts. The sound was feral :twisted: :twisted:

Had I more time to tinker with that engine, I believe it could have spit out 120 to 130 whp.

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Postby haydn28 » January 10th, 2010, 5:58 am

^^good stuff

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Postby moti » January 14th, 2010, 2:54 pm

Tsuchiya wrote:^^it is hella rare in T&T...
i built a 4ag some years back (RWD) :D ; 16v big port head, a pair of 45 weber carbs, match-porting on intake and exhaust, stock 16v cams, a stock blacktop 20v bottom end complete, MSD coil.
The only down-side I encountered was the power dropping off above 7300 rpm, as a stock 16v would. I suspected the stock cams just couldn't provide the upper rpm breathing, and i never got to try higher lift/duration cams.
But it was an eye-opening combo to say the least. Performance was abit better than a slightly modded 20v silvertop.
In the end, the completed engine worked out to be half the price of a complete silvertop 20v 4ag based on bamboo prices, as the blacktop bottom end was bought as a head and block and 16v heads are virtually being thrown away. Oil consumption was minimal; fuel consumption was pretty damn good for those huge draughts. The sound was feral :twisted: :twisted:

Had I more time to tinker with that engine, I believe it could have spit out 120 to 130 whp.




nice i'm currently working on mine (fwd convert to rwd).
16v stock
extractors
pair of dellorto's
T40 g/b

though i have a RWD head and block (big port) that i will rebuild later on this year.

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Zeriam
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want to make more toque from a 20v

Postby Zeriam » January 20th, 2010, 10:33 am

i wanna make more torque out of a 20v. so any advice good advice is welcomed.
Last edited by Zeriam on January 23rd, 2010, 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby eliteauto » January 20th, 2010, 10:55 am

put 2 20v engines in your car :|

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Postby Zeriam » January 20th, 2010, 11:12 am

eliteauto wrote:put 2 20v engines in your car :|
8-) 8-) portmore 8seconds or something like that?

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Postby eliteauto » January 20th, 2010, 11:21 am

korrect

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rx80
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Postby rx80 » January 20th, 2010, 9:00 pm

Torque sold seperately when you install a 20V. You can get better performance from the engine by using light weight flywheel and pulley set. Prol try getting more displacement, higher lift cams etc or just change to some low comp pistons stronger rods and forced induction the mofo..

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Postby lastminuteaudio » January 20th, 2010, 10:17 pm

rx80,i agree, an install d blacktop head so u will be usin MAP sensor instead of airflow...management....

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Postby Zeriam » January 20th, 2010, 10:23 pm

lastminuteaudio,just have to use bt management on a st and it will work. u dont have to swap heads if u do cam work

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Postby rx80 » January 21st, 2010, 1:37 pm

Boi aint need to do all that, you gonna need some type of management if you decide forced induction so install a greddy emanage with a greddy map. And yuh orn.

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Postby jackyboy30 » January 22nd, 2010, 1:49 am

oru could get a 7a block n put the st head on it

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Postby haydn28 » January 23rd, 2010, 4:07 pm

rx80 wrote:Boi aint need to do all that, you gonna need some type of management if you decide forced induction so install a greddy emanage with a greddy map. And yuh orn.



x2

forced induction in not the unreliable thing most people think it is

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Postby Zeriam » January 23rd, 2010, 10:00 pm

haydn28 wrote:
rx80 wrote:Boi aint need to do all that, you gonna need some type of management if you decide forced induction so install a greddy emanage with a greddy map. And yuh orn.



x2

forced induction in not the unreliable thing most people think it is
true but i'm not a fan of turbo even tho the next project is gonna be something turbo currently testing the waters with the "blue stars" company.

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Postby rx80 » January 23rd, 2010, 10:17 pm

Forced induction might be the easiest way to achieve better performance. Manifold, management, BOV, and try a turbo from a SR20 should be a lil laggy but they come a dime a dozen or even a 1JZ CT12 which aren't worth much either and should spool even better. The most difficult and expensive item will be the manifold. Or you can even use the 4agze supercharger.
IMHO it isn't worth spending a lot of money in displacement upgrades etc just to say that the car N/A, and still may not be able to get as best results. First figure out what HP target yuh looking at then yuh funds and choose accordingly.

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Postby Zeriam » January 23rd, 2010, 10:21 pm

target hp is 200ish(give or take) which i can achieve with n/a and would be easy to do. i'm more about driver feel and over all response than hp figures.

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Postby eliteauto » January 24th, 2010, 7:21 am

Zeriam wrote:target hp is 200ish(give or take) which i can achieve with n/a and would be easy to do. i'm more about driver feel and over all response than hp figures.


easy to do .......yes

cheap........no

the reality of the 20V is that it's a technical marvel, ahead of it's time when it came out, but it never got the following of say the B16A or SR16VE and as such, mods are way more expensive to come by, furthermore the engine is a lot more comfortable on a circuit track than say a drag strip, I'm glad for those who want to experiment and wish them luck

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Postby Zeriam » January 24th, 2010, 9:27 am

A172 wrote:lmao
shite look who. do u have anything useful to add?

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Postby haydn28 » January 24th, 2010, 10:51 am

eliteauto wrote:
Zeriam wrote:target hp is 200ish(give or take) which i can achieve with n/a and would be easy to do. i'm more about driver feel and over all response than hp figures.


easy to do .......yes

cheap........no

the reality of the 20V is that it's a technical marvel, ahead of it's time when it came out, but it never got the following of say the B16A or SR16VE and as such, mods are way more expensive to come by, furthermore the engine is a lot more comfortable on a circuit track than say a drag strip, I'm glad for those who want to experiment and wish them luck


^^^^true


to achieve that 200whp is not going to be a walk in the park and im willing to bet it might cost many times the time and money that a forced induction upgrade will cost.(we are currently turboing a sunny engine for an overall cost of $1500 inclusive of everything)

btw if u want a good manifold custom built, a guy in Point called Charlie does very good work for the best prices ive seen around. can get u d #

for N/A u looking @ very high compression 13/14:1 , extensive head work ( cams, valves, springs, gasket, studs, 5 angle porting, ) completely balanced and strengthened bottom end to swing high revs , cuz u will have to swing 10000+ rpm to make that kinda power from a 1.6.
also , a good standalone engine management like a haltech (piggy backs will do a poor job as the stock ecu does not map till 10000 rpm) and a good tuner.



:arrow:

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