The Official CS Lancer Thread!

[turbo_beast369]

venum,who changed your camshaft and crankshaft seals on your 4G18?

[ZeroOne]

venum, how to change de bulbs in de ac controls? de manual doh have it

[ronsin1]

I just changed Silver's two cradle bushings and 4 wheel allignment

$985.00 parts (OEM from Federal) and labour together

WTF I only pay $675 Vat inclusive for this service and yes OEM parts

[venum]

just bought the parts by Federal - $550.00

I did teh change and allignment by Tone's

as for teh seal changes, my mech Robert Chan did it

and I will have to tell u bout the bulb change next week.

will attemt it this weekend.

[ZeroOne]

ok ill try to do it this weekend too

[turbo_beast369]

ZeroOne, have you ever pulled out the middle dash to change your stereo deck...that whole piece does come out...is it that hard to get to the bulb? when i pulled down mine to change d deck i never really looked at it nah....

[venum]

When I was installing the deck, I had to remove the AC controls

[turbo_beast369]

yeah u hadda pull out d A/C control knobs and there are screws behind it....

[idlemind]

venum, i have to pull dong meh IP and dem fellas say is u to check for instructions....link meh wit some steps nah

[TURBOT]

guys and girl i now got back home from a morning full of drama.......
first lets start with the good news, so all my cradle arm bushings have been changed front and back as well as the new ball joints.... the boot rubber was also changed..
i havent carried the car to check the alignment as yet but it feels good, it isnt pulling but i guess i should still check it....

yesterday my steering wheel was very light but today with the new parts the steering feels stiff and wonderful i also notice that the car doesnt have as much body roll on corners......for real i taking corners and the car feels soooooooo much more stable..... all the noises and loose feelings are gone and now the car feels tight and sweet.......if i didnt know better i would swear she was a virgin again....


ok now for the drama...... remember i mentioned i need a new battery?

well i went in to L&D this morn and had the guy test the battery and alternator.... he said everything looked fine and he said the battery just need a full charge so he cleaned up the connections topped up some water and said take her for a drive..... (he said that he would charge it for me but it would take an hour so i opted for the drive )


gone driving enjoying the tightness (sry thats the best i can discribe the feeling as) everything went well , drove down to diego then back to maraval to go and try and get my alignment checked.... the guy said he was short staff and i could come back if i want .... so i tried to leave....tried to bounce starter nada.......sometimes i heard a click , then everytime i try to start the alarm would trip and go crazy and try to lock the dors and open them but they weren't getting enough power to do it....eventually the guy brought the meter and jus so the car start ..... so i decide battery good lemme head to the mechanic.....reached by the mechanic trying to turn in and the rpm dropped and the car shut off and refused to start in the middle of the road . i got a push into the mechanics yard..... he sat in the car and bounce starter, what u know d beyotch start........he say it look like an electrical problem because when u turn on the ac the compressor kept on tripping and voltage dropped in the car.....

so i gone by the electrician she yes SHE did her thing and she decided that the problem was a bad connection on the battery.......i have a small pole battery with the adapters to make it a big pole and the adapter was too big bla bla bla.... she cut it and put it back up .....since then the car seems to be working fine ... i switch off and start back a few times and everything good......

but after i drove out, the car still got that low rpm prob, randomly rpms would drop really low and the car would feel like it wants to cut off.. then all of a sudden it would go back to normal.......
i remember reading about some idle control motor you guys spoke of. but my car doesnt have a problem with it idleing too high..... i remember some one said that their car was ideling too high and too low ..... so i dunno what wrong......

u guys have any idea what that idle problem could be? my mind now run on the possibility that it could be the super gas i use but i dunno i doubt, i using super like a year now or something so and this hasnt really been a problem b4........

[TURBOT]

1. take out the 2 screws on the black bezel

2. remove 3 screws that hold teh IP

3. remove the IP - gently

4. disconnect the 2 cable dongles

5. check post on pg 21 and remove bulb #5

6. replace

7. test

and here is a link to the post on page 21
http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... start=1560

[idlemind]

well its known that once u start playing around withthe battery u tend to get fluctuations in the idle for the next few days.

my suggestion and is up to you whether u are comfortable and confident in the suspension work u jus did would be to run the car hard later, get that rpm up a lil bit. wait for a few days to past with normal driving and monitor the idle it should get back to normal.

well it sounds like u had a weird day, i felt the same when i drove out after my suspension parts was strange...yes the term virgin also did come to mind.

hit us up with the contact for that electrician nah, she seems to know her stuff and long time now i looking to maintain a good electrician

thanks for the link bro, the Ole Fart woulda jus ignore me anyway

[TURBOT]

sounds like a plan........would take the car out for a lil run later ...tooo much traffic in pos right now......
should i reset the ecu???
and well how long do u leave the poll off to reset the ecu?


reno's auto electrical & repairs
ruby 750 7090
located on salaza street st james
it was cool to see a woman as an electrician ......


idlemind,thanx for the advice

[idlemind]

nice !!
il check her out

resetting the ecu, to be safe, would be to leave the poll off over night.
but dont do that jus yet, run the car first

what i believe happens is without the battery the ecu resets and then your cvt loses all data about your driving habits, so while the car mite seem to be driving odd for u, it is actually learning over again.

[ZeroOne]

well i had a successsful attempt at changing the ac bulbs it was really easy just prise out the ac knobs remove screws and pull out dash but be careful with the deck. Then just pull out the bulb, it was enclosed in a holder so you have to pull out the bulb itself. I was surprised just to find 2 blubs behind there.

I have to check maturas tommorrow to see if they have the bulb. It was blown just as i suspected.

It have a woman working by renos? When i went to get my ip check he had a man there working with him.

[venum]

TURBOT,

This is prob NOT what you want to hear, but I tgink it is important to mention,

It doesn't seem that you have encountered the last if those electrical problems, they may return to haunt u, I hope not though

I say this because it seems too easy a fix, although logical

The click on ignition with a low battery is expected

The alarm going crazy is not, once u disarm it, it should allow u to start normal

The rpm dropping so low that the car cut off is odd, although expected with idle control motor problems, which u indicate taht u do not have, so this needs to be checked.

Basically, once the car started and idling the dead battery is not supposed to affect it. Several other things may:

Idle control motor
Coil packs
Grounding
Fuel starvation
Leak on vacuum
Fouled plugs
Cam position sensor
Ecu

Several in that list just not applicable in your case, but just listing possiblities

Also the not starting problem can be resolved by cleaned the terminals

So my friend, while this can be one of those simple-problem-weird/complicated-symtoms scenario, do a few extra checks to prevent it happening again

Firstly do a ECU reset - disconnect -ve terminal only for 10min (make sure it doesn't ground on the chassis for that 10 min), then take her for a 1/2 drive

[TURBOT]

venum what u mean a 1/2 drive???


thanx for the advice ..... i monitering the car like a jelous boyfriend lol..... today i drove a little i think the low idle happened one time ..... tonight i drove again it didnt happen at all ......so i hoping she just behave......

but i know i have little things to do in order to reduce the likely hood of something bad happening again.
i plan on checking /replacing the plugs tomorrow,,,, dont have a plug wrench( i checked for the tool bag, have no clue where it is, i have the jack handle and wheel spanner loose in the trunk.)

my tappet pan gasket was leaking a little oil onto the block so i took off the exhaust manifold heat shield and purple blasted that SOB... then i checked the bolts on the cover itself and to my suprise they were all in need of a little tightening (think i had the same loose bolt problem on my old car a tercel)......i didnt over tighten them tho... so hopefully oil leak solved.... gonna keep an eye on it......if it still leaks i will try to get another gasket or just clean this one and use a little grey silicone...


ps the exhaust manifold real shitty looking in true ......

[venum]

venum what u mean a 1/2 drive???

Sorry, I meant a 1/2 hour drive - was replying from my mobile, so small typo.

i plan on checking /replacing the plugs tomorrow,,,,

my tappet pan gasket was leaking a little oil onto the block

The leaking oil problem from the tappet pan gasket is fairly common with aged gaskets.

If it isn't bad, u will only get leaked oil on the outside of the block, no real problem here, mostly aesthetically displeasing

If it bad, u can get oil in the spark plug chamber, causing the plugs to become fouled.

If u can get another gasket, all's well, if not, grey silicon does a good job (did this on my CK).

[ZeroOne]

u write all that from your mobile??

[turbo_beast369]

has anybody removed their catalytic converter in their CS....I know they manufacture cars with these becuz of emissions and strict regulations and what not...and well no one will check for it in trinidad...is it recommended to do becuz its a restriction in the exhaust systema and maybe gain a small amount of power...who knows......

[TURBOT]

ok so today was a little stress again ....... i checked the plugs they were dirty so i cleaned them and put them back in but i gonna change them this week ......they look like they need to be changed.......glad to see i had in the NGK BKR5E-11

when i pulled off the plug wires i realised that there was a little oil leaking into the plug chamber....... as venum was mentioning .....

so far the tappet pan gasket hasnt leaked any more oil onto the block so it looks like i fixed that problem. 3 of my plugs were dry and well one had some oil on it i dunno if it is from taking it out ....

the oil in the chambers looks like it is only at THE TOP of the chamber ......when i looked down into it it looks dry, but u see oil setteling right at the top.....the one plug that was wet its chamber had a bit more oil in it, i aint talkin about no pool of oil eh jus a lil bit ...... i vexx i didnt take pictures....

[idlemind]

turbo_beast369, although its not the eco-friendly option, most ppl remove their cat onverters and have noticed improved performance. usually this is one of the first things u do to any roro vehicle. but again u gonna get a nicer pull at a cheap cost but the gas consumption gonna decrease but not by much.

TURBOT, i hope u got a cloth down in that chamber and cleaned it up a bit. oil in the plugs means ur plug seals need changing, and if you're going to do that one u mite as well change all. get it in while ur fixing that leaky tappet cover too.
i dont know how its lined up with the 4g18 but my plug seals are practically between the head and block so prepare to go let a mech do it. my advise would be to buy the seals before hand.

try and do this before u change plugs coz new plugs gonna foul up quick once the oil is leaking. and use the recommended plugs in page 1. dont try no fancy thing.

how the idle going?

[TURBOT]

oh yeah ....... WRT the idle i dont think it happened for the day.....so thats really good .....kepping my fingers crossed that it doesnt happen again but i keeping a look out for it...........she idleing like a champ right now ......got a good highway run today too....

i will get a pic in the morning.....



and abt ur response to turbo beast did u say that gas consumption will DECREASE?????

[idlemind]

well what i mean is u basically removing the restriction on your exhaust.
causing an improved flow of emissions from the combustion process.

with this in place, the demand on air and fuel will increase to feed this emission exit and what may seem as an increase in performace is actually a side effect of getting more air and fuel into combustion because there is a faster way to get rid of emissions.

simply put u going to be using more gas on kick downs and at other 'spirited driving' times

[turbo_beast369]

idlemind, why do u take off the cat on a RORO vehicle...does it have any more emissions control compared to a local vehicle....I would like to get a lil more power becuz I drive at normal speed most of the times and I find that the CVT is a bit sluggish whenever I have to speed up or overtake...so I find myself having to kick down to get what I want....sometimes d car does pull sweet....sometimes...when I feel like it I drive "spirited".....and also there is a leak on my exhaust somewhere in the back so when I repair that leak I am thinking of taking it out.....in essence I want a smooth flow of power wit less pedal play...
will NGK Iridium Plugs (BKR5EIX-11) make a difference in performance and reliability...I know they may last longer than stock plugs not so?...i know this topic was probly covered b4 but don't have the time to look thru the entire CS forum.....

TURBOT,when you get the plug seals let me know where u bought it and how much it cost please....

[idlemind]

The cat is removed on roro vehicles because when roro started coming out years ago the local cars did not have it and to this day its not law in trinidad and tobago. So in the car dealer's mind it useless and they advise you to remove it you gain extra pep.

You are right, the CVT is sluggish when you want to overtake or speed up because its simply different to conventional automatic trannies. The older trannies shift into a lower gear with the slightest depression on the throttle. Now dont get it wrong eh, CVT trannies do this too but at a gradual level. And you have to learn to manipulate the CVT to get what you want.

Lets say you driving at a constant level and you suddenly want to overtake...there are two behavior patterns the CVT will adopt next.
1. You will get a kick if you floor the throttle while the throttle is already semi depressed.
2. You will not get any kick if you floor the throttle immediately after you ease off the throttle or tip on brake.

And theres another way which I was tryin to get you guys to experiment with and thats shifting into Ds. In this way you're not relying on the ecu to detect the acceration pattern.

Now that leak that you have in the exhaust will tinker with the performance you get. I suggest you patch that first and then notice the changes.

I cant advise you on plugs for the 4G18. It is in my opinion to use the ones noted on Page 1 because they have all been tried and tested by tuners. GDI on the other hand must use the only plug specified by MMC because the car is already tuned for maximum performance and efficiency out of factory.

[turbo_beast369]

yeah I will monitor the changes....right now I get poor gas mileage and most times I dont use A/C......boi sometimes that CVT does pull like if u have a small turbo yes....but sadly you dont get it all the time....

btw i think i sent u a pm but somehow i not seein it in my outbox..very odd...
i wanted to know where u got ur cross drilled and slotted rotors from....at high speed when I mash good brakes it vibrates...my alignment and tyes are good....at low speed its perfect....i machined my rotors already but i feel it slightly warped....i know its a common problems with these cars....I dont really want to put back OEM...those rotors u have looks very good.....

[idlemind]

nah my inbox empty is it in your sentbox?

i bought my rotors online and brought it in myself from R1Concepts.

[turbo_beast369]

i remember typin it but probly it didnt go thru or i clicked the wrong button lol....I also wanted to know how was the install to a 4G93 GDI engine....if u encountered problems.....I am thinking of later on installing a 4G93T so I wanna know the do's and the dont's

btw those rotors rel reasonable...how do they perform and is it good quality...the reason i ask is becuz I see rotors on amazon.com and ebay for like $200+ US so i was jus wondering

[TURBOT]

k so this is the baby .......night time and cam phone = crappy pic




so u can see the oil to the top of the plug wire and the oil u see on the tappet cover is only to the top ..... is it my plug seals that need to be changed? and can i change them myself?

ohh how much u pay for shipping on the rotors to trini?