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QG owners united, Service Manual pg1, CVTC pg 12

Sunny to Skyline - SR20, CA18, RB20-26, VG30 etc.

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cacasplat3
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Postby cacasplat3 » January 2nd, 2008, 1:09 pm

i having throttle body issues again....this damn e-throttle thing is ah pain....the first time it threw a CEL, changed the TB and the accelerator electronics things.........problem was it was idling high, and then eventually it just stop working, and pressing the accelerator did nothing, it just kept idling high........ :| so the car dealer changed everything........now day before yesterday i take off the TB and clean it now the car start back idling high......no engine check light though......i feeling to kick up that car now.........
BTW anybody has the FSM for the new shape B15(the ones with the chrome grill and smooth bumpers)

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Postby RBphoto » January 2nd, 2008, 1:47 pm

cacasplat3 wrote:i having throttle body issues again....this damn e-throttle thing is ah pain....the first time it threw a CEL, changed the TB and the accelerator electronics things.........problem was it was idling high, and then eventually it just stop working, and pressing the accelerator did nothing, it just kept idling high........ :| so the car dealer changed everything........now day before yesterday i take off the TB and clean it now the car start back idling high......no engine check light though......i feeling to kick up that car now.........
BTW anybody has the FSM for the new shape B15(the ones with the chrome grill and smooth bumpers)


The car will always idle high after you clean the throttle body if you ain't reset the ECU. Sometimes as high as 1000rpm. I do not know what the acuator is on an e-throttle system, but if you force the throttle open, I guess you can mess with the calibration if it is a stepper motor. It have TPS to adjust on the E-throttle qg's?

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 2nd, 2008, 10:29 pm

i did reset the ecu........but like i said....it was doing that before(hight idle), and then eventually the whole e-throttle failed :|
real dangerous thing, like if u have to do evasive driving to prevent an accident or sumthing, and then all of a sudden i fails :|

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Postby RBphoto » January 3rd, 2008, 7:15 am

^^^^^^^^Curious. I have to learn more about these e-throttle business, but what I getting at is if you service the throttle, did you force the butterfly open? That may have damaged the servo. What is the actuator mechanism? Most electronics in cars have a designated fail safe mode, so I am wondering whether the throttle fails closed or partially closed. Also, what is the gas pedal connected to?

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 3rd, 2008, 1:22 pm

the pedal works, but the car idles high....yes i forced the butterfly open(but i wouldnt say force), there is no other way to clean it :|
cuz i tried putting on the ignition and pressing the pedal but it wasent open, so i guess its a engine running only mechanism........

will take some pics of the pedal area :idea:

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Postby RBphoto » January 3rd, 2008, 1:33 pm

^^^^^^I am trying to find the manual for a qg with E-throttle on phatG20 to help you, I am really interested in the mechanism and I feel almost certain that throttle not supposed to be forced open. If you can give me a shot of the actuator on the throttle body it would help.

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 3rd, 2008, 11:07 pm

its covered by a big plastic cover :|
goign to take the pics now!

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 3rd, 2008, 11:21 pm

by the pedal
Image

throttle body
Image

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Postby RBphoto » January 4th, 2008, 7:04 am

I ent seeing the pedal mechanism picture but I am seeing the intake. That is looking forward from the back of the engine right? At the top of the intake flex there is a rubber part with holes to hold a clip on my QG that spaces the fule lines and the return lines, and this is in the horizontal position in my car. Did you orient this hose differently when you put it back on after the cleaning and did you re-connect all of the hoses, like the crankcase breather, to this peice?

I still trying to find the e-throttle engine manual, at least I know what the part looks like now. Will see if I can figure out how the e-throttle actuator works by this evening (I actually starting to do work for the new year, so gimme a lil more time :) )

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Postby RBphoto » January 4th, 2008, 10:25 am

Got it. There were a lot of big files to download but finally found the e-throttle on the QG-18 DE stuff. The file is "2005_Sentra.rar" on phatg20.com. The PDF name is EC.pdf, page 397. Whole diagnostic procedure there. About a hundred pages, so will be reading for a while.

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 4th, 2008, 11:47 am

to see the pic.....right click and view image.....it working on my pc good.......

there is no return line for fuel.....its just the feed line to the rail......the pressure is regulated differently :wink:

i not finding the file....u have the exact link to get it from?

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Postby RBphoto » January 4th, 2008, 11:57 am

http://phatg20.net/index.php?option=com ... own&id=195

is 48.2 megs. You have to agree to the site policy checkbox before it lets you download. From the diagrams I seeing the intake flex definitely put on bent on ur car. See for yourself.

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Postby RBphoto » January 4th, 2008, 12:04 pm

By the by, Is my work firewall that blocking the image. Did you post them up differently? anyway, is the TB we talking about, so no loss.

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 4th, 2008, 12:44 pm

same way i took off the intake flex is the same way i put it back on.......
prob a difference for the qg18 i guess??????

the pics both linked from tinypic.com

going to take a pic of the entire engine bay....will post back in a while :!:

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Postby Alpha_2nr » January 4th, 2008, 1:55 pm

same way i took off the intake flex is the same way i put it back on.......
prob a difference for the qg18 i guess??????


Nuh uh. QG series engines have the intake w/flex mounted the same way.

It have TPS to adjust on the E-throttle qg's?


Did an OBD log on mine. Was unable to pull a TPS reading. Cacasplat can confirm. 8-)

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Postby RBphoto » January 4th, 2008, 2:02 pm

^^^^From the manual, it have NO feedback, so if you can tap that voltage OUTPUT FROM THE 3 and 6 terminal and log it on a graph next to the readout, you in business. It should be proportional once the motor working. What scantool did you use for that?

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 4th, 2008, 8:39 pm

i not seeing a diagram to show that my intake flex connected differently.....
bhagan,u could point out a diagram sumwhere that showin how it should be?

Knight1, is correct....no tps to pull with the e-trot :idea:

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Postby Alpha_2nr » January 4th, 2008, 9:06 pm

vFrom the manual, it have NO feedback, so if you can tap that voltage OUTPUT FROM THE 3 and 6 terminal and log it on a graph next to the readout, you in business. It should be proportional once the motor working. What scantool did you use for that?


Three.

I used the GReddy Informeter, and I used my Tactrix OBD2 cable from my WRX. It worked well with some generic (non Subaru) software......

Also used some "auto diagnostic" OBD2 reader that my mech has. Same thing.

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Postby caglowe » January 5th, 2008, 8:06 am

From today i am a proud owner of a QG18DE

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Postby RBphoto » January 5th, 2008, 9:22 am

cacasplat3 wrote:i not seeing a diagram to show that my intake flex connected differently.....
bhagan,u could point out a diagram sumwhere that showin how it should be?

Knight1, is correct....no tps to pull with the e-trot :idea:


Page EC-414, 115, 116, 117 has the diagrams showing the flex mounting.
Does the crankcase vent fit on the flex at that ange?
It have nothing to adjust in the positioner as far as the manual concerned, just diagnostics for the motor/positioner bad. I aint see anything so far to tell me whether you can manually move the butterfly or not. Don't they expect that we might want to clean it? Anyway, most of the diagnosis is with the scantool and a multimeter, no physical inspection of inside the actuator.

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 5th, 2008, 1:50 pm

well mine looks just like that......
and the high idle still hasent stopped....... :|
the car dealer supposed to come and take a look at it today.......

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Postby QG » January 5th, 2008, 2:54 pm

Does any one know a price on them APEX- i safc?

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 6th, 2008, 3:24 pm

the local apexi dealer is a powerseller on the forums.....GT RACING

well anyways the dealer didnt show u......so the car not being used right now :|

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Postby RBphoto » January 7th, 2008, 7:40 am

If you from Debe, you could check Paul with the Autoboss shop, see if he could help ya out and do a visit with his scantool cacasplat3.

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Postby RBphoto » January 7th, 2008, 11:10 am

Just change coolant in my QG. Had a few problems losening some bolts though. See here for my sunday activities:

http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... 4&start=60

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Postby cacasplat3 » January 7th, 2008, 2:52 pm

to crack seized bolts, tighten a lil bit then loosen.....thats for when they are seized by heat and rust :wink:

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Postby moti » January 8th, 2008, 8:30 am

you not supposed to force open the butterfly on the E-Trottle set up.

the cable setup is no problem to clean and "force open".

what you can do next time is have some one start the car and you spray the trottle while they revs the engine.
but this will be kinda tricky cause air will have to pass through the air flow sensor
to allow the car to rev off.
:wink:

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Postby RBphoto » January 8th, 2008, 8:46 am

If yuh just remove the whole TB, remove the actuator, clean the butterfly how much you want, then re-assemble? Don't have to interfere with the actuator at all.

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Postby joel » January 11th, 2008, 8:55 am

hey, i gettin a lil problem in the engine. when i gas down i gettin a shudder like the car goin to shut off....i take out the thermostat yesterday cause it gone bad...could this be the problem? or could it be my injectors...i aint sure and it annoyin me

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Postby RBphoto » January 12th, 2008, 6:31 am

joel, There are many mango tree mechanics (Including mine) that tell you not to replace the thermostat. Don't listen to them. If that was the last thing you did to your car, install a new thermos (Original Nissan, and prefferably before your block cracks) and see what happens. If you had this problem before you removed the defective thermos, the heat may have done damage to your engine or cooked some oil.

What made you think that your thermos was defective in the first place? Overheating?

Do you run on water or coolant mix?

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