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rollingstock wrote:I have an idq8, works well in a small sealed enclosure. Very accurate but I like my wub wub wub.
The DD 200 series will work great also.100-300 rated. But only the newer redline if going sealed, has a bigger spider and more compliant soft parts than the previous models.
X_Factor wrote:i actually offered him my pair of ctx 08 -10 inch in the bassworx sealed enclosure for 900.00
Brian Steele wrote:After trying all sorts of different designs in my cars, I've ended up coming back to simple sealed boxes for subwoofer duty. The boxes are smaller (small vented boxes end up either being tuned too high, or compromised because the vent is too small, resulting in the box's output audibly changing at higher volumes). I like the idea of going with a small sealed box, and don't get too hung up on the power rating (which at best is a wet-finger-in-the air marketing geek figure). Look for a driver with a low inductance (which suggests better motor design) and one that will give an FB/F3 around 50 Hz in the volume that you're planning to use it.
This is one that I've been eyeing for the longest while for use in an upgrade, but dammit, my 12" Alpine Type Rs refuse to quit! Aluminium cone, 700W power handling, can be used in a 0.5 cu.ft. sealed box, Fb around 50 Hz. Low Re - it basically hits all of the marks for me. And damn, it looks GOOD too, no gaudy car audio crap here.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-au ... r--295-467
But, bear in mind that the distortion generated by this driver will be pretty low and it might sound entirely different to what you might be used to hearing from car audio systems. Many car audio guys don't know that the bass being generated by their system is actually comprised of lots of distortion generated by the use of low quality motors and soft parts in their car audio subs.
nervewrecker wrote:But how is the output?
Brian Steele wrote:nervewrecker wrote:But how is the output?
Efficiency at low frequencies is largely a function of box size and "order", and peak SPL at those frequencies a function of the driver's linear excursion potential. A 12" driver with 12~14mm Xmax in a 0.5 cu.ft. box is not going to knock down any buildings, but it should be enough to enhance the low end of an SQ system.
My go-to these days is actually two good 12" drivers in a sealed enclosure. Doesn't take up much space and with enough power provides all the SPL that I want.
X_Factor wrote:i actually offered him my pair of ctx 08 -10 inch in the bassworx sealed enclosure for 900.00
Brian Steele wrote: Doesn't take up much space and with enough power provides all the SPL that I want.
Rovin wrote:i used to run sealed enclosures alot long time & my advice [even though u say u want complimentary bass] is to get more than u think u need since sealed output is generally considerably lower than a ported . so if u think u need 150 go 300 if u need 300 go 500-600ish etc , doesnt mean u need to be running it max all d time as u can simply lower d sub output on ur deck
wheel whores wrote:Brian Steele of the availability of subs locally and the ones I listed which would be the best in your opinion
wheel whores wrote:X_Factor wrote:i actually offered him my pair of ctx 08 -10 inch in the bassworx sealed enclosure for 900.00
Looking for one sub actually.... To maximize trunk room
X_Factor wrote:wheel whores wrote:X_Factor wrote:i actually offered him my pair of ctx 08 -10 inch in the bassworx sealed enclosure for 900.00
Looking for one sub actually.... To maximize trunk room
two 10 sealed is roughly a little more than 1 cube
one 10 or 12 ported needs more space than that
Brian Steele wrote:Rovin wrote:i used to run sealed enclosures alot long time & my advice [even though u say u want complimentary bass] is to get more than u think u need since sealed output is generally considerably lower than a ported . so if u think u need 150 go 300 if u need 300 go 500-600ish etc , doesnt mean u need to be running it max all d time as u can simply lower d sub output on ur deck
This is very, very good advice. I've got 1.2kW going to my two 12s in their sealed box. Turning it down when there's too much bass (like when the mother-in-law is visiting, LOL) is easy. Turning it up when your subwoofer is already at its limits leads to crappy sound and likely a blown subwoofer.
nervewrecker wrote:I may have missed it but is this the same suv you had? Have you done any electrical upgrades to accommodate the 1.2kW?
X_Factor wrote:the thing with sealed boxes is a good EQ
once you are able to EQ 20-50hz range it will shine
Turn the gain up on the sub amp, and turn down the 50hz band on the head unit eq.kavaninho wrote:X_Factor wrote:the thing with sealed boxes is a good EQ
once you are able to EQ 20-50hz range it will shine
most basic Decks wont be able to eq out subs properly
Brian Steele wrote:Brian Steele wrote: Doesn't take up much space and with enough power provides all the SPL that I want.
I forgot one more thing - it allows me to carry other stuff in my car's trunk .
The two 12s are actually mounted below all that crap in that image, in a fiberglass enclosure built into the car's spare tire well. The wooden grille above it was a temporary one that I was using until the stainless steel replacement was finished.
sMASH wrote:Turn the gain up on the sub amp, and turn down the 50hz band on the head unit eq.kavaninho wrote:X_Factor wrote:the thing with sealed boxes is a good EQ
once you are able to EQ 20-50hz range it will shine
most basic Decks wont be able to eq out subs properly
kavaninho wrote:sMASH wrote:Turn the gain up on the sub amp, and turn down the 50hz band on the head unit eq.kavaninho wrote:X_Factor wrote:the thing with sealed boxes is a good EQ
once you are able to EQ 20-50hz range it will shine
most basic Decks wont be able to eq out subs properly
In your case this worked because most of the "energy" was centered around the 50Hz region where you could have attenuated.
This will vary from car to car.
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