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h1tach1 wrote:The outdoor light socket is faulty; there seems to be short. It keeps blowing the bulb. Is there any way to change or repair this without breaking the concrete? It is hanging like that because I removed the screw for the hinge to see if I would help me get access, but it didn't.
Also is this the usual way this type of socket is installed? Thanks.
Musical Doc wrote:
Thanks for the recommendation. A guy sent me a link to SSL who sells a loctite concrete resurfacer which I will look into as well. The crack you are seeing is actually where the new concrete joined to the existing concrete bridge. If I do the screed mix I may have to do it on the old concrete as well to get height uniformity
carluva wrote:Musical Doc wrote:
Thanks for the recommendation. A guy sent me a link to SSL who sells a loctite concrete resurfacer which I will look into as well. The crack you are seeing is actually where the new concrete joined to the existing concrete bridge. If I do the screed mix I may have to do it on the old concrete as well to get height uniformity
Hey. I was just browsing Crete Art's FB page and saw that they offer a concrete repair product called Surecrete Deep Patch. According to Crete Art's post:
"Our Deep Patch is a thick repair product that is used on concrete to repair areas up to 4" deep with just adding water. This product cures to 4000 psi and the areas can be used in 24 hours. Goes from 1/8" to 4"... no other product on the market can achieve these results $185.00 plus VAT for a 50 lb bag."
See if this link works:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_ ... %2As%2As-R
Give them a call and see if this may work for you.
carluva wrote:Strange. I spoke to them yesterday to arrange a site visit for some potential work. I was told that the minimum area for a job is 500sf
Try them again. Could be a mixup.
carluva wrote:Strange. I spoke to them yesterday to arrange a site visit for some potential work. I was told that the minimum area for a job is 500sf
Try them again. Could be a mixup.
Musical Doc wrote:
I had contacted them through email because noone was answeing the phone and that was the response I got. I'll try them again in a bit.
I'm seeing in the Technical data sheet that a coating of surebond has to be put before the deep patch. If I can't find that, would poly v work as a substitute or is there something else I can use?
pugboy wrote:how your new septic system working ?
esp with the rainfall last week
you should inspect the soakaway as u have a port to look in
i installed some wire wall fencing this week in aranguez
dug holes 16” for the posts
water seeped at that dept, crazy water table height now
hopefully my old soakaway can keep up
carluva wrote:Musical Doc wrote:
I had contacted them through email because noone was answeing the phone and that was the response I got. I'll try them again in a bit.
I'm seeing in the Technical data sheet that a coating of surebond has to be put before the deep patch. If I can't find that, would poly v work as a substitute or is there something else I can use?
Call them. I got through on 386-4087.
eitech wrote:I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?
pugboy wrote:use both so water don’t get stagnant in the unused one
hopefully they are same sized and at same level
if so then you just need to hook up the bottom lines and both will fill from one side.
if they are diff heights you likely to have problems with higher one overflowing the lower oneeitech wrote:I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?
eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:use both so water don’t get stagnant in the unused one
hopefully they are same sized and at same level
if so then you just need to hook up the bottom lines and both will fill from one side.
if they are diff heights you likely to have problems with higher one overflowing the lower oneeitech wrote:I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?
Ok. One is slightly larger than the other however both have check valves at the outlet so neither can push into the next.
pugboy wrote:i tried and had probs with this 2 diff height tank headache and it did not work with the check valves because the pressure difference is not much between them so it seems they don’t have max tension holding them shut
i got slow cross leak, i tried the flap type too
what you can do is just have the fill float on the shorter one so the taller one will fill up the height of the shorter one
btw u should use a float switch to protect your pump
What's your location sir? Want to know how feasible/budget friendly it is for me as I have to organize transport which would have to be factored into my cost.carluva wrote:Folks.
I have a quantity of geotextile fabric left over from my recently completed project.
12.5 ft wide x 190 ft long.
It was more cost effective to buy a roll rather than the length I needed.
Full disclosure:
If you were to buy this in precut pieces, it's sold at $675 (VI) for 25 feet long. At that rate, it'll cost about $5,000 for the approx. 200 feet I have left over.
I paid $4,348.69 (VI) for this roll which came with 360 feet. With the length remaining calculated at unit price, the remaining 190 feet on the roll is $2,295.
Any takers for this roll for $1,800? You'll need to bring your transport.
This geotextile fabric is made for lining soakaway, rubble drains, french drains and as a surface barrier before top dressing. It is also ideal for use in landscaping as a weed block and is far more effective and durable than what is sold as a weed block at hardwares. It is also suitable for wrapping your septic tank (as I did) as a form of dirt proofing after water proofing the same.
Message or PM me if interested.
Thanks.
Check your PM.Jerry84 wrote:What's your location sir? Want to know how feasible/budget friendly it is for me as I have to organize transport which would have to be factored into my cost.carluva wrote:Folks.
I have a quantity of geotextile fabric left over from my recently completed project.
12.5 ft wide x 190 ft long.
It was more cost effective to buy a roll rather than the length I needed.
Full disclosure:
If you were to buy this in precut pieces, it's sold at $675 (VI) for 25 feet long. At that rate, it'll cost about $5,000 for the approx. 200 feet I have left over.
I paid $4,348.69 (VI) for this roll which came with 360 feet. With the length remaining calculated at unit price, the remaining 190 feet on the roll is $2,295.
Any takers for this roll for $1,800? You'll need to bring your transport.
This geotextile fabric is made for lining soakaway, rubble drains, french drains and as a surface barrier before top dressing. It is also ideal for use in landscaping as a weed block and is far more effective and durable than what is sold as a weed block at hardwares. It is also suitable for wrapping your septic tank (as I did) as a form of dirt proofing after water proofing the same.
Message or PM me if interested.
Thanks.
supercharged turbo wrote:I'm getting some water seepage between the flashing and wall.We used sikaflex previously to fill the gap and it worked for awhile but it seems the sikaflex is becoming loose allowing water to seep in.I'm thinking to use either some flex seal or the Lake Asphalt Sealant in the quart.Any suggestions?
supercharged turbo wrote:I'm getting some water seepage between the flashing and wall.We used sikaflex previously to fill the gap and it worked for awhile but it seems the sikaflex is becoming loose allowing water to seep in.I'm thinking to use either some flex seal or the Lake Asphalt Sealant in the quart.Any suggestions?
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