Mazda B2500: More Problems. Help Please.

[ThatDamnDrunk]

My "oil pressure" light and "fuel filter water trap" light do not turn off until I start the engine; they remain on infinitely when the vehicle ignition is in the "on" position with the engine not started. I do not have the manual for the car (either my dad of cousin in-law lost it or they're just holding it ransom; if anyone has an online link it'd be cool; TBL plates for year model) but I can't recall that happening when I first got the vehicle back at the start of this week.

Also, the clutch fan spins freely to a stop when the engine is turned off; I've read that this may be seen as a problem in some previous threads but the convo wasn't concluded so I'm not sure. I am at 148,000km; the mythical zone for a WLT engine if I'm not mistaken and I'd rather not go through any head problems.

Engines been running fine if anyone asks. Just concerned as to whether or not I should even be driving it. I haven't detected any loss in power though I think they've put in some sheit oil recently; may have to argue to get some amsoil back in there. Company ownership be damned.

Thanks in advance!

Also, if you see this, thankyou very much lighthammer for the 4x4 info; d man is a boss.

[jblCROWN]

the clutch fan spins freely to a stop when the engine is turned off;

buy silicone oil for d clutch fan an go by a mechanic they will open an fix it

[3stagevtec]

Get that sorted out asap. Change out the silicone oil as jblCrown suggested.

[droppa]

from my opinion, the oil light will stay on with the ignition, and only when started and the oil pressure is obtained it will turn off, if it doesn't or takes long, more than a few secs, then there is a problem......

the fan shud not spin freely, ur manual shud give the required resistance, but what we do is re-oil these fans as long as they continue to spin free after the engine has stopped......you can find the recommended cst oil at most parts place, one of the guys in the club has told me that his mech had used a mixture of silicone oil and clear silicone in his, and it works great.....it actually did....

[lighthammer]

Also, if you see this, thankyou very much lighthammer for the 4x4 info; d man is a boss.

What did I do?
I didn't do anything.... I didn't interfere with nobody or nobody girl chile...... for the record!!

My "oil pressure" light and "fuel filter water trap" light do not turn off until I start the engine; they remain on infinitely when the vehicle ignition is in the "on" position with the engine not started

Dat's normal bruh.... same thing for any ford or mazzie. Once it comes off when the ignition is fired up, then ur safe... although it wouldn't hurt to check the following:
- fuel filters for replacement - or prime the pump and see if any sediment/water comes out
- the wire mesh at the inlet line to the fuel pump. Soemtiems it gets clogged and can cause problems like fuel starvation, manifesting in loss of power or smoking out the tailpipe

Also, the clutch fan spins freely to a stop when the engine is turned off; I've read that this may be seen as a problem in some previous threads but the convo wasn't concluded so I'm not sure. I am at 148,000km; the mythical zone for a WLT engine if I'm not mistaken and I'd rather not go through any head problems.

Ok the way a clutch fan works... it uses a variable viscosity oil (silicone oil) that changes viscosity according to the temp. At cool temp, the oil is slick and the fan doesn't turn as fast (i.e. engine needs less cooling). At hot temps, the oil is thicker and fan will turn at max speed.

Once you shut off the engine after running at normal engine temps (eg. coming home after a drive) - quickly open the bonnet and spin the fan in both directions. it should give a mild resistance but not be impossible to turn. If it spins as free as a bird, then ur clutch fan oil is gone through - i.e. time to buy some new oil and replace that sucker.

(note!! Be sure to allow the turbo time to run through the full 60 secs before shutting off eh! Don't switch off immediately after a hard run - your turbo will still be spooling down and will need that extra 60 secs of oil to run through it to cool down properly. If you ignore this warnign and decided to move like a badman who doh cater - then the oil that's left in the turbo will overheat and coke-up/form a hard sludge.... leading to the eventual death of the poor little turbo)



Anyway, hold dat dey - daiz de service manuals for your WLT engine... in chase yuh wah go brave and play mechanic!!
http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/MAZDA%20material%20for%20technician/BT-50_en.pdf

[Paullct]

how to clean that little wire mesh thing? i heard its tricky

[4g63]

you need to carefully open the bolt which allows the through-flow of fuel. you'll most likely have two brass washers along with it... top and bottom. put that aside and then carefully use maybe a bird beak pliers or a piece of wire and pinch the spring between your finger and the wire or delicately use a small bird beak and remove being careful not to damage the spring. the filter is beneath the spring, so i use a piece of wire to take it out, but you have to be careful not to puncture the mesh. is not made out of paper or anything, but you still need to take your time. clean that out proper, prolly with some carb cleaner and then maybe a toothbrush and some soap powder and then thoroughly rinse it out with water and then replace.

[ward one]

you need to carefully open the bolt which allows the through-flow of fuel. you'll most likely have two brass washers along with it... top and bottom. put that aside and then carefully use maybe a bird beak pliers or a piece of wire and pinch the spring between your finger and the wire or delicately use a small bird beak and remove being careful not to damage the spring. the filter is beneath the spring, so i use a piece of wire to take it out, but you have to be careful not to puncture the mesh. is not made out of paper or anything, but you still need to take your time. clean that out proper, prolly with some carb cleaner and then maybe a toothbrush and some soap powder and then thoroughly rinse it out with water and then replace.

nice run though man.

to get the strainer out i usually use a flat head screwdriver. the strainer jus sticks on the tip so easy and doesn't get damaged.

wrt to the brass washers take your time. they are easy to fall out especially if its your first time doing this.

I am at 148,000km; the mythical zone for a WLT engine if I'm not mistaken and I'd rather not go through any head problems.

bro in our b2500's 1 of them got over 500,000k's before an engine change and another was doing over 300,000k's b4 sellin it.