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Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Diesel, Gas, 4x4, 4x2

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Mr. Go Slow
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Postby Mr. Go Slow » March 8th, 2010, 7:26 am

civic minded wrote:alyah i real hate the rims and tyres that the ranger came with - so i traded mines in and got these instead - what alyah think?Its 17" with 255/17/65 Hurcules terra trac AT

Image


Nice! where did you get them and $$$?

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » March 8th, 2010, 8:00 am

Wheels looking good civic minded :!:



I have a quick fix for the dust problem in the A/C. It involves flushing out the evaporator with water.

If you get a few seconds of a dust blast or mildew kinda smell when you turn on the A/C, it usually is because the evaporator is dirty. You'll need a phillips screwdriver, a bucket, a flashlight, and a garden hose...(yes I said garden hose)



1. remove the left kick panel. (the plastic panel that would be near your left foot if you were sitting on the front left seat. You'll have to remove a plastic nut on the front of the panel and one screw at the bottom of the door jam (where the scuff plate is) to slide it back. Lift the scuff plate a bit if the kick plate wont slide out)

2. remove the electrical connections to the blower & thermostat under the dash.

3. remove the three screws holding the blower in place. (use both hands, one the hold the blower, and the other to use the screwdriver. The blower should drop straight down when you remove the last screw.

4. remove the thermostat, it has two screws holding it in place and it's a bit to the right of the blower. All the electrical leads are taped together, so you just have to trace the wires to find it.

(all of the above will come out in less than five minutes)

5. at this point you can open and close your external vent a few times to see if anything drops down onto the car mat. Be a little curious and look up inside the vent (use a flashlight,) you'll see that there is no filter and you also see how the air is moved through the system.

6. snake your garden hose in the vent past the point where the thermostat is located. if you put your hand in there you'll feel a foam covered tube. That's one of the A/C gas lines, the evaporator is just behind that. You should be able to hold the hose nozzle easily in there.

7. also put a bucket under the vehicle where the evaporator drain line is, so you can see what's coming out when you run the water.

8. Get someone to assist you in opening & closing the tap while you hold the hose nozzle in the vent. Run the water for a few seconds at a time and try to move the nozzle in a circular motion to cover the evaporator with water.

DO NOT run the water for too long, remember the evaporator drain line is designed to flow water out at a very slow rate, so you don't want it to over fill. and then have water back-up into the interior of the van. Short bursts of water would be okay.

9. Examine the contents of the bucket for debris/dust. If you see stuff empty the bucket and flush again until clear water flows out. (use a white bucket, it would obviously help.) Lock off the water (and hope wasa is not aware of what you did :-P) and put everything back together in reverse order.

10. Run some water outside at the base of the winscreen to flush out that air intake area. Fire up your A/C and breathe some fresh air.



You can also spray some Lysol or Oust on the external intake at the base of the wipers while the A/C is on (and the external vent left open) to deodorize the system.

The entire process will not take very long, If you're not comfortable with the DIY, just check any A/C technicians in your area. Mind you they might want to tear down your entire dash and charge you up to $500 dollars to do it.
Last edited by Cooper on March 8th, 2010, 9:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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civic minded
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Postby civic minded » March 8th, 2010, 8:21 am

thanks alot cooper i will definitely try that

Thanks alot fellas - the rims i got it from my brothers place - v&s trading on ramsaran st. chaguanas- i paid a difference of 3000 dollars - He accepts trade in's so you should get something for your current set.

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Postby civic minded » March 9th, 2010, 4:27 pm

i read in the Nissan and the Hilux threads that you need to 'break in' your engine for the first 1000-1200km and do an oil change at 1000km;
When i bought mines i asked them about the ranger and they told me - that it wasn't necessary.
Question is -shouldn't this be a standard thing- cause even tho the engine was pre- broken shouldn't a oil change be performed to get rid of any metal wear that will happen (load carrying ) ?

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » March 9th, 2010, 10:36 pm

I asked that same question before I purchased my truck. The sales person said no, but I was still wasn't convinced so I googled it. I read FAQ's on engine oil websites and articles about Diesel break-in periods....this is what most of them said in a nutshell....

With the new engine manufacturing technology available today, a break-in period isn't necessary. Modern engines are manufactured with greater precision compared to engines manufactured 10-20 years ago, so less wear and tear takes place to properly 'mate' the metal surfaces together.

BUT!... even with the modern technology available today, there is still a margin for error so actually all engines still require a 'short' break-in period.


So basically, use your own discretion (and take in to consideration your driving style) and just take it easy for the first 1000km.


***Edit - removed the 3000km limit on the advice of a couple mechanics***

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Postby Kill-Bill » March 13th, 2010, 11:57 am

Ranger 4X2 2009 model...WLT 2.5

From full to 1/4 about 450km (mix of hghw & city driving) 60/40 respectively with ac.

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Postby civic minded » March 13th, 2010, 11:38 pm

So does it make sense to purchase a k&n air filter? Did it make a difference?

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » March 14th, 2010, 2:28 am

I have been alternating between the K&N and the factory filter for the past six months. I can say for sure that I do get power gains, especially during acceleration where you have to rev into the higher RPMs. The gains in fuel economy have not been 'significant' but you will notice a going a bit further on tank of fuel....I get anywhere between 25-50km extra depending on how I drive. Like avoiding hard launching, driving over 100km/h on the highway etc.

You will also notice a bit of noise coming from the turbo, but it isn't anything to complain about, because is a Diesel you're driving anyway and personally I'd prefer to hear more of that suction noise :lol:

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Postby civic minded » March 14th, 2010, 7:46 am

^^where did you get yours?

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » March 14th, 2010, 7:46 pm

Teknet Company Ltd
8 French Street
Woodbrook, POS
625-TNET (8638)
teknet@trinidad.net
contact : Gerrard ----> W2J on the forum

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V2NR 3.0
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Postby V2NR 3.0 » March 18th, 2010, 1:05 pm

Good information

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Postby nick009 » April 2nd, 2010, 11:02 am

hey guys can one of you tell me what is the recommended lsd differential oil for the ranger
dont got a manual

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » April 3rd, 2010, 10:09 am

^^^ From the Owner's Manual:

The models with the TDCi engine - API Service: GL-5, SAE: 80W-90


The models with the WLT engine - API Service: GL-6, SAE 90

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Postby JD...... » April 22nd, 2010, 7:08 am

anyone with the new ranger get a vibration only in first gear whenever boost comes in (2200 rpm)?
feels similar to wheel hop but not as voilent

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Postby civic minded » April 22nd, 2010, 8:10 am

^^nope - never had that - you should take it to the firm and have it checked.

I bought the K&N filter and the gains i get form it is immediately noticed - my van suddenly wants to rev further - and i can feel the engine breathe much better too - i noticed to that on startup there is less noise, so far it is worth the price i paid.

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Postby Slack » April 22nd, 2010, 8:11 am

I had that initially when i got the van but seemed to have gone away by itself. My "outside woman" is going on 15000k now.

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Postby civic minded » April 22nd, 2010, 8:13 am

Mines now hit 8000

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Postby Jeremy Mohd » April 22nd, 2010, 12:41 pm

Last time I saw mine in the showroom was 68!... collecting next week.

3.0 Duratorq turbo/Auto (not the thunder). Blue.

civic_minded -- been reading your posts, keep us updated on it... (any problems/services/upgrades etc).

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Postby nick009 » April 22nd, 2010, 7:50 pm

hrm dont get that vibration either
but i do get that clunk noise coming from the diff gonna get it adjusted soon only on 58k so i dunno why sigh

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Postby JD...... » April 23rd, 2010, 6:54 am

it does seem to be getting less noticable though, i now hiting 5k, best mods so far is the ironman suspension, the vehicle rides better on the highway, less body roll, and got some lift as well.
K&N next

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » April 23rd, 2010, 7:01 am

nick009, can you describe that noise :?:

I'm occasionally hearing a small clunk/knock from the underside when accelerating and stopping, especially in stop and go traffic. But I don't get it all the time, so it's hard to zero in on the cause of the noise.

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Postby nick009 » April 23rd, 2010, 7:41 pm

yea it is a clunk/knock noise
and its only when i change gear, if u come off the clutch fast when accelerating particullary the lower gears 1-2-3 u`ll hear it
maybe urs need adjusting too
i dont hear it when stopping thou

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » April 24th, 2010, 2:07 pm

Sounds similar to what I'm getting between gear changes, but the noise is more noticeable when stopping and accelerating.

I'm doing just under 13,000km but I'll check out the service center to see if they can handle it before my next service.

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Postby civic minded » April 24th, 2010, 9:57 pm

Image

came across this during a search - i am waiting for a pricing

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Postby SmokeyGTi » April 24th, 2010, 10:36 pm

Cooper wrote:So far I've noticed that the A/C doesn't contribute that much to fuel economy.

But if you guys manage to keep it under 100km/h on the highway, you should see some major improvements....Yes, I know that is a difficult thing for some people :fadein:




That is so true. i have the 2.5 WLT, once you cross 100 the gas needle moves!

I've done Chaguanas to Cedros keeping the revs under 2500rpm with the gas guage moving from just above Full to squarely on Full. This was with a full trip of people.

I did Chaguanas to Matelot and Back with A/C on, full trip, I gun it a little on the highway - about 1/3 of the tank used. I'm pretty sure if i kept it under 100km/hr i would have only used 1/4 tank.

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Postby SmokeyGTi » April 24th, 2010, 10:44 pm

nick009 wrote:hrm dont get that vibration either
but i do get that clunk noise coming from the diff gonna get it adjusted soon only on 58k so i dunno why sigh


i hear something similar with my b2500sometimes. Haven't heard it in a while though. It's a soft "clunk" noise.

anybody know what that could be?

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » April 26th, 2010, 9:34 am

okay, here's a weird one....

after three months I finally washed my truck (mainly because it was starting to look more grey than black) and then I took it for a spin this morning and the noise stopped. :lol:

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Mr. Red Sleeper
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Postby Mr. Red Sleeper » April 30th, 2010, 9:43 am

Vehicles always drive better after good treatment!
Everyone knows that.
Lol :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Mr. Red Sleeper
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Postby Mr. Red Sleeper » April 30th, 2010, 9:57 am

civic minded,
Have you managed to locate the leds as in your avatar?

Ironman 4x4

can you source this rollbar/ mirrors?

Image

Image

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Cooper
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Postby Cooper » April 30th, 2010, 10:40 am

wow, that's a nice kit :!:

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