Increased boost on Mitsubishi 4D56

[speedaholic]

no they dont change tips.. they run a machine with a concentrated soloution tru the fuel lines to the injectors.. thier number is 638-4121.. its on the eastern main road heading to POS after the croisse..

[CD4Accord]

Does anyone know the difference in the process between what Zaid Mustapha and Sookhai's do?

From what I understand Sookhai will not only clean your injectors but recalibrate them as well...
Can Mustapha do that? If so, $800 is not bad at all..

I used to take the vehicle to electrodiesel on Cipero St, Sando but they don't do single jobs anymore..

[speedaholic]

zaid mustapha dont recalibrate..... recalibration has to do with the Fuel pump... zaid jes does injector cleaning... if ur fuel pump needs recalibrating sookhais is prob the only place you can get that done..

Lighthammer's dad took his K34T l200 @ sookhais recently... they changes the tips on all the injectors and recalibrated the fuel pump on his engine and he said.. @ 200,000+ kilometers the engine is running like brand new again... IMO its worth the money... but if u cant afford that and think its just your injectors need cleaning... check zaid mustapha...

[CD4Accord]

Great info speedaholic...

Let me ask you this, do you all know anyone else who performs the same work as Sookhai's?
ie. recalibration of pump and changing of tips etc? They can't have a complete monopoly on it in Trinidad can they?

If it comes down to it, I may fork out the $3000 but that is still a serious amount of money for what is probably 2 hours work for them..

[cutthroatInt]

diesel specialist in tableland does this type of work also. (6563154) appointments only. Call for info
i believe they have a calibration bench as well to work on your fuel pump.

there are lots of other ppl that will clean and service your injectors but you have to find out if they will set it back to spec. (spring tension/pulse). because anyone can take apart an injector and mount it back up.

Last time i did some work by a guy in arima, i found out he sent the injector pump to sookhai. there was a worn shaft in the pump. and he hit me a bill of $2500. this is bout 4 yrs ago btw.

[CD4Accord]

I know the place in Tableland, drive past every once in a while and wonder what quality of work they do.. Always seem busy though..

I think i'll give them a call in a few weeks when I ready to do a full tune up on the engine..
All this in anticipation leading back to the original topic... Increasing the boost by 2 or 3 psi..

[Timeshift]

Na man I didnt buy it as yet planning to, might jus get it off ebay cuz no where down here seems to hv it

[CD4Accord]

Yea, probably cheaper to import it too anyway...

I was considering one for a while, but then I really it didnt really make sense with my driving style.. Nearly all the reviews I found say that the increased flow of the K+N comes with decreased particulate filtration etc..
I don't really see that as being too much of an issue with a car, but the offroading etc that I do, I don't think its worth it in my case..

I'm gonna work on upping the boost first, then maybe when I get some more $$ saved up put it towards a full 2.5" stainless steel exhaust..

[lighthammer]

Lighthammer's dad took his K34T l200 @ sookhais recently... they changes the tips on all the injectors and recalibrated the fuel pump on his engine and he said.. @ 200,000+ kilometers the engine is running like brand new again... IMO its worth the money... but if u cant afford that and think its just your injectors need cleaning... check zaid mustapha...

Yup, Sookhai's cleaned the injector tips, and we had to replace one cuz the threading had gone bad on it. They also recalibrated the fuel pump. When we got it back, the pump was a bit too far advanced so the engine was smoking and missing a bit - but we carried it back and they re-adjusted it.

Now the L200 runs smoothly and pulls like it was factory new. Doesn't run as fast as it used to, it has 297,000km on the clock now, but the power is still there.

[cutthroatInt]

i have the 4656 turbo engine. non intercooled.
wen i first put in the engine, i ran a Cone filter that connects straight to the intake manifold.
and i have 2.5 free flow exhaust straight back (muffler specialist St madeline $2500 k14 L200 single cab) $2700 for 3", which i would have done one time if i had asked sooner. but the job was already done.
Van ran like a beyotch wen it was set up like that.
but i took off the cone filter as advised by mechs about the same particulates passing tru.
there is a noticable drop in acceleration now with the stock air filter (even wen new)

so if u get a free flow exhaust. (not too big as i was told u wud loose out on top end), best possible air filter that is as free as possible, service ur injectors, u shud be good to go.

i fingered around with the wastegate already... running it with the hose off n stuff.. wasnt for long but did feel a difference in the pull.. and a larger puff of black smoke at the back.

want to try the raising boost properly and upping fuel once i make sure my injectors bess. and install an intercooler. but in the long run its just more and more money being spent.. is it worth it?

my van doesnt accelerate and drive as those new vans do. but pulls evenly up those inclines on the highways.. get like 83-85 mph on the speedo. its an old engine.

[CD4Accord]

The intercooler will definitely make a positive difference to your cause.. Moreso than messing with cone filters and so on..

Also, concerning the exhaust, i think 3" would have been a definite overkill.. Everyone on the Pajero forums reccomends 2.5" exhaust for the 4D56T (and the more powerful 4M40T).. 3" will actually lead to reduced LOW end torque due to reduced exhaust velocity..

What did you think of 2001 Specialist Muffler's work?

[speedaholic]

check Harry's muffeler works on John dulam road aranguez! man does good work @ great prices!!!

[cutthroatInt]

^^ his muffler work was very good!... very professionally done i'd say. its 2.5 from turbo back end straight back.. i didnt use mandrel bends, just bout 2 crush bends over axel... but its pretty much even diameter truout..

i just regret not going with the 3" incase i decided to put a jz in it. lol...


but if u want we can arrange, u can peep under my van and check it out for urself.

[CD4Accord]

Nah man, I'm well familiar with his work.. Who you think did up the exhaust on the Accord? I was just wondering how your experience was doing an entire exhaust..

I have an exhaust leak on my pajero I need to sort out, but not sure if its the kinda job to call in the big (expensive) people or just do it by one of the more affordable options...

That said, trust me 2.5" was the right call..

Ordering my manual boost controller today! Plan is (if everything works out as I hope) by the end of August I should have the pajero gauge/boost project almost completed..
Going to cost me a fair amount of money, but lets hope its worth it..
If I get chance will definitely be doing a before and after dyno

[cutthroatInt]

updates?

[CD4Accord]

None.. As I said, end of august is the plan for the pajero..

I have my Hallman Pro Manual Boost Controller
My oil pressure gauge
My digital boost gauge, exhaust temperature (pyrometer) and a digital water temperature for added info..

Step 1 for me is getting the injectors serviced/fuel pump calibrated... Also, to clean out all the gunk from my intercooler and get my modified catch can installed
Step 2.. Get the boost controller sending units for all the gauges installed by my mechanic and getting the pyrometer drilled into the exhaust manifold..
Step 3. Electrician to get it all wired up
Step 4.. See where my boost is at and decide what I am doing from there..

Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) is pretty much the wideband sensor of the diesel tuning world.. It is really all the information I need to adjust my boost safely and correctly..

[cutthroatInt]

Did you decide on who ur carryin the injectors to be serviced by?

Im positive my injectors are dirty now. cos twice since i put on this FU engine i got a puff of smoke, and the van start to pull like a beyotch... den a few days later it will go back to its sluggish ways...

and i believe my usual driving habits with this engine is exceeding the limits of my radiator. do u kno any one wit a larger (bigger than stock k14) radiator for sale?

[speedaholic]

^^ get your radiator Re-cored... i had mine done a few months ago cuz the original started swelling @ the fins.. went to Lincoln radiator works in cunupia... did really gud work.. and costed me about $1100... u can also chose between 2 and 3 cores to do over with... obviously the 3 core will be more expensive..

[CD4Accord]

cutthroat.. I really havent decided where I am doing the injectors yet...
If I don't find any more affordable option it will probably end up being Sookhai.. If I can find another place that has the ability to calibrate the fuel pump etc I will try there out...

What exactly do they do to the fuel pump? How exactly do they calibrate it? Anyone know?

[speedaholic]

lighthammer may be able to answer that for u... his dad's L200 was re calibrated @ sookhais somtime ago...

[CD4Accord]

Yeah, he already gave a small review of it just up this page..

I feel when august come round I will call the people in tableland, see whats their story and price and then make a determination..
I am the kinda person likes to stand around and watch work being done on my vehicle, so I hope that they let me do that ..

If what they tell me over the phone is not what im looking for, I guess it's back to the sookhai price..


Someone actually also mentioned the truck depot up in Tabaquite to me.. I know where the place is but havent heard any more info/reviews.. I don't know if they only do injector cleaning or fuel pump work as well..

[speedaholic]

yea i like to watch work being done myself...

[cutthroatInt]

^^ get your radiator Re-cored... i had mine done a few months ago cuz the original started swelling @ the fins.. went to Lincoln radiator works in cunupia... did really gud work.. and costed me about $1100... u can also chose between 2 and 3 cores to do over with... obviously the 3 core will be more expensive..

wot u tink bout the mishimoto 3 core aluminum/ss radiator? Prentice has it for bout 1500 last time i checked. is it worth it for the diesel engine? also wot psi rated rad cap u guys use on the 4D56T engine?

[CD4Accord]

The way I feel about mishimoto is, if you needed to change your radiator anyway may as well upgrade.. If your radiator working fine as it is, leave it so..
If you did have to buy it though, i wouldn't pay prentice for it.. I'm sure you can source it cheaper yourself if you look hard..

I can't remember the cap specs offhand and im out the country now, but someone else go chime in im sure..

[cutthroatInt]

so u r sayin a 3 core mishimoto is not an upgrade?
I kno it works on 1jzgte engines well... wanna get some reviews of it on a much hotter diesel turbo engine.

There is a 4 core (seems to be custom made one) in the classifieds section rite now.
what you tink bout one of that design?
I have a padna wit a Titan radiator custom made cross flow in his k14.... cooling is not an issue for him.

im not comfortable wen i run hard the temp rises, and as soon as i slow down, it will drop.. and the radiator is clean. so i tinkin bout upgrading now.

Any suggestions?

[CD4Accord]

Im not saying the mishimoto isn't an upgrade.. What I'm saying is if you havent had any problems with cooling, then spend the money elsewhere..
On the other hand, if your radiator is bad the mishimoto will make for a nice upgrade..

Honestly though, I never had radiator problems on the pajero .. One busted hose and thats about it so far..

[cutthroatInt]

Accord man,

i did a lil service on the injectors by Big Z on the forums/Princess town. is just running concentrated cleaning solution tru the fuel system as described by speedaholic (same as zaid mustapha).

I do feel a difference. the van idles much smoother. revs smoother. and i believe its acclerating faster too... the injector pump was not touched. its a foreign used engine so im assuming that shud be in good operating condition.

but i dont know how i havnt noticed this before or if its mind over matter, im feelin a "flat spot" on the powerband.
i hav a worn gearbox (box makes some ole noise and lately gear 1 givin a lil resistance to go in) and some back lash in rear diff so i dont "launch" my van... but once rolling say bout 30-40 mph i feel like the van goes no where...den from bout 50mph it acclerates very quickly all the way till i meet traffic ahead... been maxxin out my speedo (100mph). not sure if it reading right lol... need to compare wit another vehicle to verify that ting working..

i never got that kinda response before i cleaned injectors.
so im satisfied with the job.. costed me 350$ tt.

now im seriously contemplating IC install, boost gauge, and boost controller to raise psi.

the last muffler bearing who was supposed to "flush" my injectors i realised all he did was adjust my wastegate to minimize "black smoke".

so im not sure wot psi its opening at (working psi).

u reach back in the country yet?
want to meet up to see your set up...
since it seems i'll be goin down the same road ur on.

i dont tink i;ll tamper wit CAI cos i drive tru anyting wit my 4x2... dont want to risk water entering engine.. and yes the cone filter i had on got dirty really fast..
but i want to do some pipe work on my intake (air filter to turbo inlet. Air box is 2.5" turbo is 2".

Presently 2.5-2" reducer on air box , 2" muffler pipe to turbo.
i want to do 2.5" from air box, 2.5 mandrel bends then reduce to 2" at turbo. Do you think that will make a difference? (assuming i dont rearrange everyting to include an intercooler)

i still have my non turbo original engine on the ground with its sexy intake manifold. i tink it will be easier to use that manifold wen working up the intercooler (providing there is enough clearance with the turbo charger itself on this engine)

wot oil u use on ur 4d56T?
i have been using castrol viscus 25w 60 multigrade.
but was recently told its too thick.
I will burn a lil bit of oil if oil change is due (oil is thin) and been driving hard for a long distance.
do you tink its safe for me to go to a thinner oil? and if so wot grade/brand will you recommend in your experience?

other 4d56 ppl plz lend your experiences also..

thanks

[cutthroatInt]

oh and btw, im still monitoring my water temp after this injector service and driving habits to decide if the radiator needs and upgrade. but it hasnt gone above half (thermostat out) since... so for now it seems like the radiator doing its job good enuff.

[CD4Accord]

Sorry about not replying earlier, been seeing some trouble with the accord cooling system lately so that keeping me busy…

What I might consider doing is trying the method you used, possibly by Big Z to see if it helps my injector situation before considering $3000 by Sookhai..
Concerning the flat spot, I actually find that these engines tend to flatten out anywhere about say 3500rpm… Ideally if you can keep it around 3000 I think you will get the best torque/power curve with the stock tuning…
You really really brave to get the pajero up to top speed but I wasn’t aware that it could do 100mph.. I been driving ours about 6 yrs now and we own it about 12, and going downhill on the highway I think the best it has ever done is about 90mph or ~145kmph..

I actually find sometimes the easiest way to see if your speedo is working is to measure a fixed point on the highway in another car.. Say 1mile , then run it in the pajero at a set speed using cruise control.. Have someone ride with you and time the mile, that way you know what speed you were actually going fairly accurately..
On the other hand, you can just borrow a gps from someone and measure your speed using that?

Concerning the mods I’m planning.. I haven’t even had chance to begin..
Need to do an oil change first, clean injectors and fix an exhaust leak..
Also still need to get all my gauges installed.. I can show you my question and answer thread on pajero UK forums if you want more info on the gauges etc..

Concerning the CAI, I say don’t bother.. If you putting any kinda intake modification make it a snorkel, not a cai..
Also, I don’t see the use of modifying the intake pipe sizes really.. You are better off working on the intercooler to make sure its clean inside and that its working optimally..Possibly even do up a scoop for it (if you have the 2.5 4d56t hood like me)

Concerning oil, for the past 2 years or so I have been using Castrol Hypuron but only because the price was right.. Before that all that I ever used on it was the old Shell Rimula Super (grey bottle) which has now become Rimula R4.. Its an excellent oil for the price and many diesel mechanics I know swear by it.. I can also vouch for it having an EXCELLENT detergent pack..
I use 15w-40 and I have never burnt oil so I don’t see the use of running anything more viscous than that..
Are you sure that you are burning oil or you just have a problem with the EGR valve on the engine (common problem)..

I really can’t see the radiator requiring an upgrade.. I don’t think I have ever overheated the vehicle except one time that a hose burst.. The cooling system is well designed for the vehicle so you should be good to go once the cap/thermostat and coolant are in good condition.. I personally use Texaco/Havoline long life mixed half half with battery water..

If you plan on going ahead with the boost adjust I would do these:

1. Try a lighter oil first and see how the car likes it
2. Take off the intercooler and clean it out using some petrol or kerosene.. A lot of oil fumes get into it causing sludge and reducing its function.
3. Change all fluids including diff oils, transmission fluid, transfer case oil etc..
4. Get your tranny checked out.. if it really has a problem then it will NOT like the extra torque that will come from increasing boost..
5. Finally, I think that an oil pressure gauge is always a safe thing to have on vehicles such as these..

Good luck and I’ll keep you posted on when I start my work.. Hate to push back again but im shooting for end of sept to be done..

[cutthroatInt]

Sorry about not replying earlier, been seeing some trouble with the accord cooling system lately so that keeping me busy…

What I might consider doing is trying the method you used, possibly by Big Z to see if it helps my injector situation before considering $3000 by Sookhai..
Concerning the flat spot, I actually find that these engines tend to flatten out anywhere about say 3500rpm… Ideally if you can keep it around 3000 I think you will get the best torque/power curve with the stock tuning…
You really really brave to get the pajero up to top speed but I wasn’t aware that it could do 100mph.. I been driving ours about 6 yrs now and we own it about 12, and going downhill on the highway I think the best it has ever done is about 90mph or ~145kmph..

its actually a k14 L200 i have. burgandy, 2door, in need of a paint job that you may see traversing the country... im usually ALL over the place.

I actually find sometimes the easiest way to see if your speedo is working is to measure a fixed point on the highway in another car.. Say 1mile , then run it in the pajero at a set speed using cruise control.. Have someone ride with you and time the mile, that way you know what speed you were actually going fairly accurately..
On the other hand, you can just borrow a gps from someone and measure your speed using that?

so i dont have cruise control, nor a tacho. will try timing it between a fixed distance. S=D/T. I have this tacho i got from someone. seems to have to same 5 wires as some i saw on the net. Now i most likely thing the FU i got came from a pajero. Double groove alternator pulley. Does this alternator have a "R/W terminal"? Havnt reached by and electrician to try to install it yet. And dont want to spend all the extra to get Autometer Diesel tacho.

Concerning the mods I’m planning.. I haven’t even had chance to begin..
Need to do an oil change first, clean injectors and fix an exhaust leak..
Also still need to get all my gauges installed.. I can show you my question and answer thread on pajero UK forums if you want more info on the gauges etc..

kindly pm me that link...

Concerning the CAI, I say don’t bother.. If you putting any kinda intake modification make it a snorkel, not a cai..
Also, I don’t see the use of modifying the intake pipe sizes really.. You are better off working on the intercooler to make sure its clean inside and that its working optimally..Possibly even do up a scoop for it (if you have the 2.5 4d56t hood like me)

well the reason for wanting to change the intake sizes is cos the engine didnt come intercooled and unless i get a stock set up to make it line up as original as possible (as in pajero, Turbo L200) i will have to install a custom set up. was wondering if there will be negatives bout air velocity/turbulence if i go to the 2.5 intake pipes. I kno mechanical injection pump diesel engines love air.. more the better.

Concerning oil, for the past 2 years or so I have been using Castrol Hypuron but only because the price was right.. Before that all that I ever used on it was the old Shell Rimula Super (grey bottle) which has now become Rimula R4.. Its an excellent oil for the price and many diesel mechanics I know swear by it.. I can also vouch for it having an EXCELLENT detergent pack..
I use 15w-40 and I have never burnt oil so I don’t see the use of running anything more viscous than that..
Are you sure that you are burning oil or you just have a problem with the EGR valve on the engine (common problem)..

oil change next 2500 miles. will go to the lighter 15w 40 and compare. however i have d/c the EGR vacuum line on the intake manifold. cos a padnas' one got stuck in the open position and his engine started to "knock". the engine dont smoke much now so didnt want to risk mines being stuck also. so basically i eliminated EGR ever being a problem. and right now mother nature isnt too upset wit me

I really can’t see the radiator requiring an upgrade.. I don’t think I have ever overheated the vehicle except one time that a hose burst.. The cooling system is well designed for the vehicle so you should be good to go once the cap/thermostat and coolant are in good condition.. I personally use Texaco/Havoline long life mixed half half with battery water..

so its the k14 radiator that i keep wondering if was undersized. never compared it to a pajero's rad. will take some measurements.. but its a stock 2 core rad for L200 k14

If you plan on going ahead with the boost adjust I would do these:

1. Try a lighter oil first and see how the car likes it
2. Take off the intercooler and clean it out using some petrol or kerosene.. A lot of oil fumes get into it causing sludge and reducing its function.
3. Change all fluids including diff oils, transmission fluid, transfer case oil etc..
4. Get your tranny checked out.. if it really has a problem then it will NOT like the extra torque that will come from increasing boost..
5. Finally, I think that an oil pressure gauge is always a safe thing to have on vehicles such as these..

all drivetrain oils already changed. gearbox prob cud be due to clutch slave cylinder... i didnt get the exact repair kit.. and had to use 2 springs (original one, and one that came wit the kit.. to make it fit snuggly on the piston shoulder. so prob thats wot causing gear 1 to give a lil resistance wen going in.

the prob wit the diff is jus some back lash.. that is only an issue if i "fierce clutch" and try to get wheel spin at 0mph.

Good luck and I’ll keep you posted on when I start my work.. Hate to push back again but im shooting for end of sept to be done..

likewise.. im just tryin to put tings in place. and buy up my parts... good luck wit ur accord probs also.