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Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

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sweeks
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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby sweeks » September 21st, 2010, 4:43 pm

Cooper wrote:sweeks, RUDD Lockmasters specialize in those types of keys. They are located on Duke Street, POS .....opposite NLCB. I don't have their number here but they are in the book.


$1100 for a coded key. It takes half an hour.
Last edited by sweeks on September 23rd, 2010, 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby vharripersad » September 21st, 2010, 8:35 pm

How long does the battery in the ford ranger last? In terms of Mileage ...

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby civic minded » September 22nd, 2010, 6:24 am

^^the 06 ranger battery never been change and that's what, 4 years plus

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Cooper » September 22nd, 2010, 6:30 am

Last time I was at the stealership I asked that same question.... they said I could expect approximately three years out of the battery but they have had clients who didn't change their batteries for up to five years. It all depends on how you use & maintain your battery.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby civic minded » September 22nd, 2010, 6:35 am

Every oil change I check the battery - so far don't have any issues.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby sweeks » September 22nd, 2010, 7:08 am

That's correct .... just top up with distilled water and try not to run down the battery. Once the alternator working, you shouldn't have a problem. On average 3-5 years for the original battery, after that it's approx 12 - 36 months depending on the type of battery purchased.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby civic minded » September 22nd, 2010, 7:00 pm

i donno nah but i find the Track battary and the others local brands don't last long at all. How the AC delco holding up? anyone have that?

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » September 22nd, 2010, 8:24 pm

guys when i take off my radiator cap (when the engine is cool) i notice a sound cant tell if it is releasing pressure or if it is sucking in. But every single time my coolant level in the radiator is fairly low.
Is my head gasket failing?
Also i not sure if it is my mind playing tricks but to me seems a bit less powerful

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby high » September 25th, 2010, 5:29 pm

hi fellow tuners can anyone help me with some information.my 2008 ranger was in an accident and cab and chassis bent on rightside,i am getting a bt 50 cab and chassis would this be advisable for repair option.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Mr. Go Slow » September 26th, 2010, 6:41 pm

high wrote:hi fellow tuners can anyone help me with some information.my 2008 ranger was in an accident and cab and chassis bent on rightside,i am getting a bt 50 cab and chassis would this be advisable for repair option.


Cab and chassis bent?? :shock: :shock:

but 2008 model? shouldn't that be under full comp?

BT50 / ranger = same cab / chassis, so should be no issue ... However, I myself have no trust in vehicles damaged past a point.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » September 27th, 2010, 12:44 pm

well turns out my head gasket is leaking . strange thou after only 70k

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Mr. Go Slow » September 27th, 2010, 1:22 pm

nick009 wrote:well turns out my head gasket is leaking . strange thou after only 70k



Common if you managed to overheat it ... radiator tip top?

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » September 27th, 2010, 1:39 pm

nope never overheated. Even with it, as is, i can still drive the van and it doesnt overheat. been driving it for 2 weeks as is, only got it diagnosed today .No oil/water mixing either. Coolant disappears thou, have to top up often .
Got the radiator checked too and its good to go. Only thing is if the gauge isnt working properly,giving a false reading. I doubt that thou as it goes up to the normal mark and just stays there

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby sweeks » September 30th, 2010, 9:17 am

Nick009 what do you think caused it....? Start with the basics with the cooling system... check for leaks, get a radiator specialist to check it out, flush out with distilled water and replace the coolant.

I also recently saw OEM Mazda coolant being sold in Couva.

Guys... I was speaking to mechanics about the overheating issues with the WLT and they recommended replacing the thermostat to help alleviate the overheating.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Xplode » October 1st, 2010, 11:13 am

was looking to purchase a ford ranger 2.5 turbo 4x2 auto but got turn off by seeing the brain box inside the engine compartment by any means this seem to be trouble and costly

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » October 1st, 2010, 9:17 pm

nope never overheated, got the radiator checked too and its fine, wasnt losing water either before.
It just happened suddenly :S Praying my head didnt crack and its just the gasket. I`ll see this week.

I`m really suprised at this but apparently it has happened to other wlt engines(according to mechanic), but if it is the head, i`m selling it for sure after its fixed. All i did was change the coolant and then a couple days after........started to rough idle slightly when cold and the radiator was pressured up when cold. sigh

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby lighthammer » October 2nd, 2010, 10:54 am

^^ might be a hairline crack in the block or somewhere else along the cooling system.
Try adding some dye into the radiator resevoir, see if there's a leak somewhere.

Bring the truck to a good radiator guy, have it checked thoroughly.


Remember that diesel engines run hotter temps than gasoline engines, so a well-maintained cooling system is a must.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » October 2nd, 2010, 3:08 pm

i got the radiator checked already and the cooling system.......... everything is fine

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby JD...... » October 2nd, 2010, 3:58 pm

when the truck is cold and running, take off the rad cap and if your seeing bubbles in the rad, this is compression comming from the chamber, when the engine heats up with expansion of the head and pressure of the system you will loose more water, somtimes pressure tests will not show this.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby homeboy » October 2nd, 2010, 11:24 pm

So today i just left home and stop at a close by shop to get something before i head to Trincity..................leaving from south........on my way back to the Ranger i saw water dripping from below the radiator, open bonnet and found coolant all around the fan. Drove slowly to Singh's radiator and upon investigation found the top of the rad blown. He had a double core metal for 1700 so i had no choice, fixed in 15 mins and up the road, van working good and it could of been worst....lucky was not on the highway already before it happened.....Just for you guys to note, Singh told me when the top of any plastic rad is changing colour from the original black to bronze this means time to change the top or change complete........

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby lighthammer » October 3rd, 2010, 12:01 am

^^^ similar thing happened to our frontier a couple years ago.
Changed the radiator, no problems thus far.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby lighthammer » October 3rd, 2010, 12:04 pm

nick009 - I just found out that a common problem with Ford Diesels, esp. with the Powerstroke diesels in the US can be the EGR cooler. It sits downstream from the oil-cooler and receives coolant from the output end of the oil-cooler.

Sometimes the EGR's coolant intake can get clogged up with debris from within the cooling system. This causes the temps inside the EGR to shoot way up, causing coolant to bubble into the exhaust system instead of returning to the coolant resevoir.


Warning signs to look out for:
- unexplained loss of coolant from your resevoir bottle. After checking the entire radiator & piping system, and ensuring the head gasket isn't cracked or leaking and the block itself is solid, the next most likely source of coolant loss is from the EGR into the exhaust system. This leads to warning sign no. 2....
- White smoke from the tailpipe. This is actually steam, from the water-based coolant leaking & dumping into the exhaust system. Keep an eye on the colour of your exhaust and when the white smoke appears
- Gushing of coolant out of the coolant bottle or from the overflow hose. Might be a sign that the oil cooler's pipe are clogged, or the EGR isn't getting enough coolant hence whatever little coolant is inside the EGR is boiling and releasing steam pockets through the coolant system.

In american ford diesels, this can happen after 50,000 miles. I'm not so sure about the UK and Thailand models, but it stands to reason that this may be a possibility, after all other obvious causes are ruled out.

Problem is that these can all add up: Plugged-up engine oil cooler >>> ruptured EGR cooler >>> overheated engine oil >>> overheated fuel injectors >>> loss of coolant overall >>> blown head gasket >>> $$$ to repair.


If your ranger is still under warranty, it might be prudent to take it to McEarney motors and request to have the entire coolant system inspected, including the oil-cooler & EGR cooler. Usually this will be replaced under waranty, but later on the system may be prone to failure again. AFAIK there are 3rd party solutions for American ford engines like a remote oil-cooler with optional oil-bypass function for the coolant.


Hope this helps, or at least leads you to a proper diagnosis & fix even if it wasn't the EGR at fault.

Keep us updated dude, would like to know the eventual outcome for you.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby lighthammer » October 3rd, 2010, 12:09 pm

^^ also, if your head gasket was cracked, you'd have seen water/coolant leaking into the engine & cylinders. This usually shows up as a whitish/cheesy residue around the oil cap.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » October 3rd, 2010, 1:39 pm

i`ll let you guys know for sure this week ,its going to fix, but the oil/coolant aint mixing , just loosing coolant and radiator pressured up when cold.
But i dont think i have an engine oil cooler do i?well not that i see.
And the EGR doesnt see coolant as far as i know, it just recirculates exhaust gas back into the intake. Some of the rangers ive seen locally dont have this thou, wonder if this is the cause hrm.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Silvermike » October 6th, 2010, 2:14 pm

whats the top speed of the 2.5 manual 4X4?

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » October 6th, 2010, 9:56 pm

well it was the head , it cracked in the no.3 cylinder fuel injector chamber.
Alot of people apparently this has happened to and is a common flaw either in the casting or design of the head.
Note: there were no signs of warping or overheating

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby sweeks » October 8th, 2010, 10:25 am

Nick009: Thanks for the update. Please let us know what remedial action is being taken and the cost of repairs.

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby nick009 » October 9th, 2010, 8:16 am

well its out of warranty by 10k km (reach 70k) this same thing happened to a guy who reached 65k
new head from firm =18g (non in stock)
Got a head from Ramai`s Auto Supplies in Marabella ($5000), Boodram and sons sold all their "headmaster" brand heads so had no choice.
This is a bare head so had to transfer everything from the old head to this one
had to remachine 10 valves for them to sit back properly for the 45degree angle
had to buy two new valves (the two intake in cylinder no.3 had to replace from damage from the water getting in)
new timing belt -changed it one time
new head gasket
new valve seals
new camshaft seal
plus labour

Total cost about $8400 -i think, will know today

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Cooper » October 9th, 2010, 2:13 pm

nick009 wrote:well its out of warranty by 10k km (reach 70k) this same thing happened to a guy who reached 65k....



You purchased this vehicle NEW from the firm?

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Re: Tech Thread - Ford Ranger

Postby Silvermike » October 9th, 2010, 4:54 pm

whats the stock wheel offset and bolt pattern?

whats a good offset in a 9" wheel to get to be flush or slightly past the fenders... without modifications ofcourse?

thanks.

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