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maj. tom wrote:I don't think those RGB smart bulbs have the Photosynthetic Active Radiation (PAR) for plant growing. A lot, if not all of them use mixing color LED programming of varying intensity to trick your eyes and brain into perceiving certain colors, rather than a true wavelength output from a dedicated color LED that produces enough PPE Photosynthetic Photon Efficiency (the fraction of light energy converted into chemical energy during photosynthesis in green plants and algae).
So OP aaron17, this can get really complicated, but unnecessary. A real white 20W fluorescent bulb about 2 feet length can supply enough of what a low light plant needs in about 2 square feet. There's no need to do all this calculation if you don't want to know about it. The light is just one part, plant nutrition, root support and air circulation are also very important.
timelapse wrote:Adnj: Have you ever seen standard socket LED bulbs at the lower range of the spectrum?
Will check modern for some warmer bulbs when my current crop gets harvested,and try a mixed range, providing I get the required wattage.I supplemented my regular setup with the red/blue lights some time last year but it didn't really make a difference.I ended up giving my wife it for her orchid seedlings.adnj wrote:maj. tom wrote:I don't think those RGB smart bulbs have the Photosynthetic Active Radiation (PAR) for plant growing. A lot, if not all of them use mixing color LED programming of varying intensity to trick your eyes and brain into perceiving certain colors, rather than a true wavelength output from a dedicated color LED that produces enough PPE Photosynthetic Photon Efficiency (the fraction of light energy converted into chemical energy during photosynthesis in green plants and algae).
So OP aaron17, this can get really complicated, but unnecessary. A real white 20W fluorescent bulb about 2 feet length can supply enough of what a low light plant needs in about 2 square feet. There's no need to do all this calculation if you don't want to know about it. The light is just one part, plant nutrition, root support and air circulation are also very important.
This is misleading.
Flourescent tubes that are not specifically phosphored to to add near infrared will have a bias to blue.
Any white LED will offer a superior spectral distribution to a fluorescent tubes.
RGB LED arrays are just that: three different color LEDs driven separately. Frequencies can differ a bit but you still get something close to the red and blue that growers use.timelapse wrote:Adnj: Have you ever seen standard socket LED bulbs at the lower range of the spectrum?
Yes, I have. You can also buy medium socket LED grow lights at Modern Electric, if you need to go that route.
Try that literally, look directly at the bulbs when on.Your brain will hurt.I use sunglasses when I working in the grow tent for white light.I could only imagine single coloursadnj wrote:If you really want to your brain to hurt, take a look at medium base LED bulbs that are available in green-only and red-only.
Nice .Do you use ferts?Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:Got this AeroGarden as a gift about 6 weeks ago.
https://www.aerogarden.com/
It has artificial light and it circulates water and plant food automatically. It has a built in pump so it’s kinda like aquaponics.
We got basil, mint, thyme and parsley.
The basil and mint just took off and got huge
Guessing those are white, infrared and ultraviolet LEDs
ps the screen next to it is an Alexa Echo Show, it’s unrelated to the aerogarden, just have both on the same table stand.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:Everything comes in the box. There’s a plant solution liquid that you add. The green light blinks when it’s time to add more.
pugboy wrote:do you dump the existing nutrient mix and replace with a completely new remixed solution ?Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:Everything comes in the box. There’s a plant solution liquid that you add. The green light blinks when it’s time to add more.
aaron17 wrote:So its basically like a large cuboid shed with one open area.
Sun and air enters that side. There is some direct sun in the morning time but by 9 am ..its gets shaded. There is sufficient of air/ very breezy. Close to the wall, we have typical chive, celery etc that gets direct sun to grow. We cannot put it on the opposite side due to how the sun moves..hence being shaded. That’s why I want to utilize the mostly shaded area for artificial light planting.
Also a very valid option.I saw some clear plastic made like galvanize sheets by R Maye last weekadnj wrote:aaron17 wrote:So its basically like a large cuboid shed with one open area.
Sun and air enters that side. There is some direct sun in the morning time but by 9 am ..its gets shaded. There is sufficient of air/ very breezy. Close to the wall, we have typical chive, celery etc that gets direct sun to grow. We cannot put it on the opposite side due to how the sun moves..hence being shaded. That’s why I want to utilize the mostly shaded area for artificial light planting.
Before spending for the lighting I would seriously consider replacing at least some of the galvanized corrugated sheeting used for the roof to clear polycarbonate sheeting.
1. It's a three-sided structure.nervewrecker wrote:Galvanise will bake it with this heat and limit air circulation.
Polycarbonate may accumulate cracks and mildew fast.
Wire mesh will allow for air circulation and vegetative growth on it forming a porous barrier creating shade and natural cooling. But you got to maintain it.
We used styrofoam sheets to insulate buildings already and downsize on system capacity. It's a viable option for a roof with a bare metal frame. Holes cut with upside down plastic bottle bases will allow for light to penetrate and the white styrofoam surface will increase the reflective index inside for light. Can use styrofoam strips a few feet wide on the walls to limit porosity if it's an issue.
Cheap, lightweight, disposable and vegetative growth on the mesh walls promotes carbon capture. Just gotta maintain it.
PVC pipe frame is cheap, even heavier filled with sand or cement.adnj wrote:1. It's a three-sided structure.nervewrecker wrote:Galvanise will bake it with this heat and limit air circulation.
Polycarbonate may accumulate cracks and mildew fast.
Wire mesh will allow for air circulation and vegetative growth on it forming a porous barrier creating shade and natural cooling. But you got to maintain it.
We used styrofoam sheets to insulate buildings already and downsize on system capacity. It's a viable option for a roof with a bare metal frame. Holes cut with upside down plastic bottle bases will allow for light to penetrate and the white styrofoam surface will increase the reflective index inside for light. Can use styrofoam strips a few feet wide on the walls to limit porosity if it's an issue.
Cheap, lightweight, disposable and vegetative growth on the mesh walls promotes carbon capture. Just gotta maintain it.
2. Polycarbonate shetting has a useful life of 15 to 30 years.
3. The best way to reduce radiated heat from a metal roof is to paint the outside surface in silver or pure white: ~97% reflection.
nervewrecker wrote:PVC pipe frame is cheap, even heavier filled with sand or cement.adnj wrote:1. It's a three-sided structure.nervewrecker wrote:Galvanise will bake it with this heat and limit air circulation.
Polycarbonate may accumulate cracks and mildew fast.
Wire mesh will allow for air circulation and vegetative growth on it forming a porous barrier creating shade and natural cooling. But you got to maintain it.
We used styrofoam sheets to insulate buildings already and downsize on system capacity. It's a viable option for a roof with a bare metal frame. Holes cut with upside down plastic bottle bases will allow for light to penetrate and the white styrofoam surface will increase the reflective index inside for light. Can use styrofoam strips a few feet wide on the walls to limit porosity if it's an issue.
Cheap, lightweight, disposable and vegetative growth on the mesh walls promotes carbon capture. Just gotta maintain it.
2. Polycarbonate shetting has a useful life of 15 to 30 years.
3. The best way to reduce radiated heat from a metal roof is to paint the outside surface in silver or pure white: ~97% reflection.
Polycarbonate degrades with uv and gets scratched easy. Most headlights are ploycarbonate and they look like dried brittle cheeze slices in years. Cost is a factor here I assume.
You're talking color, I'm talking material composition. Metal is a very good conductor of heat and being a good conductor it's a good radiator of heat. A shipping container painted white will get hotter than a similar structure made of gypsum or styrofoam. Even less hot if vented.
What is this about?PVC pipe frame is cheap, even heavier filled with sand or cement.
The OP has a 3 sided galvanized corrugated sheet shed shown in a post above and wants to light it. Corrugated polycarbonate is a drop in replacement - if it clouds and crazes, he still gets light. The shed is missing a wall - it is well vented.Polycarbonate degrades with uv and gets scratched easy. Most headlights are ploycarbonate and they look like dried brittle cheeze slices in years. Cost is a factor here I assume.
You're talking color, I'm talking material composition. Metal is a very good conductor of heat and being a good conductor it's a good radiator of heat. A shipping container painted white will get hotter than a similar structure made of gypsum or styrofoam. Even less hot if vented.
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