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carluva wrote:Goulds pump. Period.
I've seen goulds manufactured in USA and some made in Mexico selling in the same hardware. The USA one is more expensive. Not sure on the differences.
A properly connected goulds, with pressure tank (well X trol, nothing else), gauge and correctly set pressure switches will outlast any other pump out there especially those smart heads...
G-DUB wrote:carluva wrote:Goulds pump. Period.
I've seen goulds manufactured in USA and some made in Mexico selling in the same hardware. The USA one is more expensive. Not sure on the differences.
A properly connected goulds, with pressure tank (well X trol, nothing else), gauge and correctly set pressure switches will outlast any other pump out there especially those smart heads...
The USA made pump is much heavier than the Mexican made, main difference would be the cast iron used to manufacture the pump.
shake d livin wake d dead wrote:Pugboy...hear this nah...u does fix/service pumps or wah???
pugboy wrote:Not professionally, only the ones I happen to had to in my possession, which are like 3 of both brands.
TBH it's not hard if you are a little handy.shake d livin wake d dead wrote:Pugboy...hear this nah...u does fix/service pumps or wah???
Assuming that you are using a 115v 1ph float switch; use the switch to energize a 2 pole relay.eitech wrote:Hey guys jus need a lil advice. So my goulds pump works fine however i wanted the additional protection of a tank float switch. Now my pump is wired for 230v and the float switch will only interrupt one line. I thinkin i would need the float to control a contactor which would break/make both lines for motor. Can it be done without a contactor besides rewiring d motor for 120v?
Only if there is an insulation failure. You will probably experience a shock similar to when a shower heater's insulation fails.pugboy wrote:Those float switches don’t touch the water when they are floating on the water surface.
How do they introduce current into the water ?
pugboy wrote:That is one advantage of a smarthead
They can sense if water not passing and trigger a fault.
I want to try and see if s smarthead could be used inline as a fault sensor only.
eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:That is one advantage of a smarthead
They can sense if water not passing and trigger a fault.
I want to try and see if s smarthead could be used inline as a fault sensor only.
So the float switch is not a good option?
pugboy wrote:I have two with no problems, the egg shaped one which floats on the water surface inside the tank,
make sure to put a knot so the cable does fall back into the tank and secure the wire connections cleanly and waterproof with electrical tape and plastic bag.
One of them a guy installed it for me, the idiot used a big hole saw to cut a 3" hole in the top of the tank for the device to fit through.eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:That is one advantage of a smarthead
They can sense if water not passing and trigger a fault.
I want to try and see if s smarthead could be used inline as a fault sensor only.
So the float switch is not a good option?
eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:I have two with no problems, the egg shaped one which floats on the water surface inside the tank,
make sure to put a knot so the cable does fall back into the tank and secure the wire connections cleanly and waterproof with electrical tape and plastic bag.
One of them a guy installed it for me, the idiot used a big hole saw to cut a 3" hole in the top of the tank for the device to fit through.eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:That is one advantage of a smarthead
They can sense if water not passing and trigger a fault.
I want to try and see if s smarthead could be used inline as a fault sensor only.
So the float switch is not a good option?
Aight but back to my initial question: a float switch will only interrupt one line of a 230v motor. Unlike a 115v motor the float switch will open d circuit completely. There is no other way around this unless i use a control relay?
pugboy wrote:Yeah as mentioned in an earlier post about using a double contactor.
I guess you could use two float switches
One for each leg.
But don’t quote me on thateitech wrote:pugboy wrote:I have two with no problems, the egg shaped one which floats on the water surface inside the tank,
make sure to put a knot so the cable does fall back into the tank and secure the wire connections cleanly and waterproof with electrical tape and plastic bag.
One of them a guy installed it for me, the idiot used a big hole saw to cut a 3" hole in the top of the tank for the device to fit through.eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:That is one advantage of a smarthead
They can sense if water not passing and trigger a fault.
I want to try and see if s smarthead could be used inline as a fault sensor only.
So the float switch is not a good option?
Aight but back to my initial question: a float switch will only interrupt one line of a 230v motor. Unlike a 115v motor the float switch will open d circuit completely. There is no other way around this unless i use a control relay?
shake d livin wake d dead wrote:Back at it again...facepalm
Pump comes on and its only humming...blown capacitor??
Yes the entire wire can be changed ur will need some regulator clips to crimp the wire the red wire broken off is the problem The pump hummingshake d livin wake d dead wrote:Even i could even troubleshoot the cap, the red wire was busted....notice in the pic...also if you can zoom in to the yellow wire with the black tape...im seeing strands detached from where it supposed to be connected...can the entire wire be changed??
pugboy wrote:what is prob agaib ?
pugboy wrote:tank as in pressure tank ?
pugboy wrote:well that means the pressure tank diaphragm is busted, have to get a new one and we need to figure out why it not lasting.
Before this was it functioning normally ?
what was/is the cutoff pressure switch psi which your pump would stop at ?
assuming you have a pressure gauge on the pump.
If the cutoff pressure is too high it will over fill the pressure tank and bust the rubber in it.
pugboy wrote:well that means the pressure tank diaphragm is busted, have to get a new one and we need to figure out why it not lasting.
Before this was it functioning normally ?
what was/is the cutoff pressure switch psi which your pump would stop at ?
assuming you have a pressure gauge on the pump.
If the cutoff pressure is too high it will over fill the pressure tank and bust the rubber in it.
wheelbarrow wrote:pugboy wrote:well that means the pressure tank diaphragm is busted, have to get a new one and we need to figure out why it not lasting.
Before this was it functioning normally ?
what was/is the cutoff pressure switch psi which your pump would stop at ?
assuming you have a pressure gauge on the pump.
If the cutoff pressure is too high it will over fill the pressure tank and bust the rubber in it.
Also check the discharge check valve, if this is leaking it could be that high WASA pressure can be coming back into the pressure tank.
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