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Building a house in Trinidad

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h1tach1
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby h1tach1 » August 18th, 2021, 3:49 pm

The outdoor light socket is faulty; there seems to be short. It keeps blowing the bulb. Is there any way to change or repair this without breaking the concrete? It is hanging like that because I removed the screw for the hinge to see if I would help me get access, but it didn't.

Also is this the usual way this type of socket is installed? Thanks.

fixture.jpg

adnj
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby adnj » August 18th, 2021, 4:04 pm

h1tach1 wrote:The outdoor light socket is faulty; there seems to be short. It keeps blowing the bulb. Is there any way to change or repair this without breaking the concrete? It is hanging like that because I removed the screw for the hinge to see if I would help me get access, but it didn't.

Also is this the usual way this type of socket is installed? Thanks.

fixture.jpg


This is not typical.

Turn off the power at the circuit breaker box. Use a small chisel and chip away the concrete plaster. You will find the fixtures electrical box below it. Remove the fixture.

If you need to patch the wall before replacing the fixture, use 3 parts plaster sand to 1 part Portland cement. Add water and stir until the mixture is the consistency of warm butter.

Mount the fixture to electrical box using #6 machine screws.

A bead of silicone caulk at the base of the fixture will help to keep insects from nesting in the electrical box below the base of the fixture.

h1tach1
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby h1tach1 » August 18th, 2021, 4:07 pm

Thanks for the detailed response.

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 19th, 2021, 12:14 pm

Musical Doc wrote:
Thanks for the recommendation. A guy sent me a link to SSL who sells a loctite concrete resurfacer which I will look into as well. The crack you are seeing is actually where the new concrete joined to the existing concrete bridge. If I do the screed mix I may have to do it on the old concrete as well to get height uniformity


Hey. I was just browsing Crete Art's FB page and saw that they offer a concrete repair product called Surecrete Deep Patch. According to Crete Art's post:

"Our Deep Patch is a thick repair product that is used on concrete to repair areas up to 4" deep with just adding water. This product cures to 4000 psi and the areas can be used in 24 hours. Goes from 1/8" to 4"... no other product on the market can achieve these results $185.00 plus VAT for a 50 lb bag."

See if this link works:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_ ... %2As%2As-R

Give them a call and see if this may work for you.

pugboy
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » August 19th, 2021, 12:25 pm

what i wonde about those surface patches is if the original surface flaky won’t it eventually unstick

Musical Doc
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Musical Doc » August 20th, 2021, 8:21 am

carluva wrote:
Musical Doc wrote:
Thanks for the recommendation. A guy sent me a link to SSL who sells a loctite concrete resurfacer which I will look into as well. The crack you are seeing is actually where the new concrete joined to the existing concrete bridge. If I do the screed mix I may have to do it on the old concrete as well to get height uniformity


Hey. I was just browsing Crete Art's FB page and saw that they offer a concrete repair product called Surecrete Deep Patch. According to Crete Art's post:

"Our Deep Patch is a thick repair product that is used on concrete to repair areas up to 4" deep with just adding water. This product cures to 4000 psi and the areas can be used in 24 hours. Goes from 1/8" to 4"... no other product on the market can achieve these results $185.00 plus VAT for a 50 lb bag."

See if this link works:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_ ... %2As%2As-R

Give them a call and see if this may work for you.


That's strange because I contacted them and they said they don't sell to the public and they only take jobs costing $25000 and upwards lol

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 20th, 2021, 8:41 am

Strange. I spoke to them yesterday to arrange a site visit for some potential work. I was told that the minimum area for a job is 500sf

Try them again. Could be a mixup.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » August 20th, 2021, 9:08 am

how your new septic system working ?
esp with the rainfall last week
you should inspect the soakaway as u have a port to look in

i installed some wire wall fencing this week in aranguez
dug holes 16” for the posts
water seeped at that dept, crazy water table height now
hopefully my old soakaway can keep up

carluva wrote:Strange. I spoke to them yesterday to arrange a site visit for some potential work. I was told that the minimum area for a job is 500sf

Try them again. Could be a mixup.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Musical Doc » August 20th, 2021, 9:44 am

carluva wrote:Strange. I spoke to them yesterday to arrange a site visit for some potential work. I was told that the minimum area for a job is 500sf

Try them again. Could be a mixup.


I had contacted them through email because noone was answeing the phone and that was the response I got. I'll try them again in a bit.
I'm seeing in the Technical data sheet that a coating of surebond has to be put before the deep patch. If I can't find that, would poly v work as a substitute or is there something else I can use?

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 20th, 2021, 9:49 am

Musical Doc wrote:
I had contacted them through email because noone was answeing the phone and that was the response I got. I'll try them again in a bit.
I'm seeing in the Technical data sheet that a coating of surebond has to be put before the deep patch. If I can't find that, would poly v work as a substitute or is there something else I can use?


Call them. I got through on 386-4087.

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 20th, 2021, 10:07 am

pugboy wrote:how your new septic system working ?
esp with the rainfall last week
you should inspect the soakaway as u have a port to look in

i installed some wire wall fencing this week in aranguez
dug holes 16” for the posts
water seeped at that dept, crazy water table height now
hopefully my old soakaway can keep up



Well, the soakaway has water in it. I have inspected the soakaway and the septic tank. With the drops in elevation of the piping from the septic tank to the soakaway, the level in the septic tank has not changed. That's a good sign as it indicates no back flow to the septic tank from the outlet line. But then again, with how the system is configured, why should there be...

... Remember from the soakaway, there is a 6" perforated pipe in a trench about 36" below grade and this runs to the pump sump. That pump does its job and has pumped out a bit of water. Truth be told, with the rainfall since last week, there is a constant slow trickle of water from the pipe to the sump. This tells me that the excess water in the system (additional rainfall, higher water table, ground water and runoff from septic tank/soakaway) is flowing to the sump which is another good thing. I usually don't know when the pump starts and stops, but it does as the level in the sump is also low.

In addition, there is also the 4" rubble drain about 18" (max.) below grade. This is run along the fence line and spills out to the main community drain. The area has been graded towards this rubble drain and then the rubble drain graded to the main community drain. This serves to handle the higher surface water as well as water from the lot behind my house which may make its way into my yard. This drain also works as I did see a flow from it at the main community drain. However, the opening in my fence wall through which this drain's pipe exit was only sealed up yesterday. So with the grading of the area, all the water was running off and emptying through this opening. The water did not have time to penetrate the earth to the rubble drain. However, the first time the rain fell last week, there was a good flow out of that drain. This also works as well.

All in all, I think that the new system works to deal with the water in that area with the ultimate intent of preventing a backup of the soakaway and septic tank.

I even did a DIY chlorinator chamber to house the chlorine tablets. This disinfects the water being discharged by the pump. Truth be told, I am not sure how effective the disinfecting will be as the flow of water from the pump is pretty high and there may not be enough dwell time over the tablets. But hey, its there. I uses a 4" PVC Seeping TEE and inserted a 3" pipe sleeve to house the tablets.

Regarding your fencing. If there is a concern of water, consider installing a similar rubble drain to deal with that water, if it's posing a problem. From what I have seen, this works well.
Last edited by carluva on August 20th, 2021, 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Musical Doc » August 20th, 2021, 10:51 am

carluva wrote:
Musical Doc wrote:
I had contacted them through email because noone was answeing the phone and that was the response I got. I'll try them again in a bit.
I'm seeing in the Technical data sheet that a coating of surebond has to be put before the deep patch. If I can't find that, would poly v work as a substitute or is there something else I can use?


Call them. I got through on 386-4087.


I got through to them. Thanks alot bro! The guy said it doesn't need any adhesive, just add water and spread but I'm still thinking of brushing on some poly v on the surface before spreading since its not a large area. My only problem now is this unpredictable weather lol

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eitech
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » August 20th, 2021, 6:42 pm

I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » August 20th, 2021, 6:46 pm

use both so water don’t get stagnant in the unused one
hopefully they are same sized and at same level
if so then you just need to hook up the bottom lines and both will fill from one side.

if they are diff heights you likely to have problems with higher one overflowing the lower one
eitech wrote:I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » August 20th, 2021, 6:59 pm

pugboy wrote:use both so water don’t get stagnant in the unused one
hopefully they are same sized and at same level
if so then you just need to hook up the bottom lines and both will fill from one side.

if they are diff heights you likely to have problems with higher one overflowing the lower one
eitech wrote:I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?


Ok. One is slightly larger than the other however both have check valves at the outlet so neither can push into the next.

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 20th, 2021, 7:49 pm

As pug said, leave both lined up. Are the check valves on the outlet of each tank spring tensioned check valves or flapper type?

Reason I ask is that some spring check valves need a fair amount of force (pressure) on the upstream side of the valve to over come the spring tension to flow through the valve. You may find that when the water level is high is the tank, the available head pressure from the tank water will be sufficient to overcome the spring tension to flow through the valve. However, at lower water levels in the tank, the available head pressure may not be large enough to flow through the valve. This could lead to no water on the pump suction from that tank(s). If water is not available to pump suction, you'll not get water to the building and, depending how long the pump runs, the pump can get damaged and fail.

If you are using a flapper check valve, you should be good to go as this does not require as much pressure to overcome the flapper.

If using the spring check valve (like the brass Pegler or Aquarius brands) monitor over some time and see how it works for you. I'd suggest running with one tank lined up to see what happens as the water level drops in the tank. Then switch to the other tank and repeat.

The other possible issue you'd need to monitor is the filling of the tank. Without check valves at the bottom of each tank, when filling with water, all tanks equalise levels, even if you are filling only one tank. If however your fill line to one tank is closer to the mains water, depending on water pressure, you may find that one tank may get preferential flow (the tank closer to the mains). With the check valves installed, the levels will not equalise, which is a pro in your case due to the difference in sizes in of the tanks. But in cases with low mains pressure, the tank levels won't equalise and one tank has to be filled before water pressure is enough to flow to the second tank and so on. That may not be a huge issue in the long run, but just something to monitor if you find the tanks take long to fill.


eitech wrote:
pugboy wrote:use both so water don’t get stagnant in the unused one
hopefully they are same sized and at same level
if so then you just need to hook up the bottom lines and both will fill from one side.

if they are diff heights you likely to have problems with higher one overflowing the lower one
eitech wrote:I just installed an additional water tank. Should i leave them both lined up to the pump or use one at a time, or does it matter?


Ok. One is slightly larger than the other however both have check valves at the outlet so neither can push into the next.
Last edited by carluva on August 20th, 2021, 7:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » August 20th, 2021, 7:55 pm

i tried and had probs with this 2 diff height tank headache and it did not work with the check valves because the pressure difference is not much between them so it seems they don’t have max tension holding them shut
i got slow cross leak, i tried the flap type too

what you can do is just have the fill float on the shorter one so the taller one will fill up the height of the shorter one

btw u should use a float switch to protect your pump

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eitech
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » August 20th, 2021, 8:08 pm

pugboy wrote:i tried and had probs with this 2 diff height tank headache and it did not work with the check valves because the pressure difference is not much between them so it seems they don’t have max tension holding them shut
i got slow cross leak, i tried the flap type too

what you can do is just have the fill float on the shorter one so the taller one will fill up the height of the shorter one

btw u should use a float switch to protect your pump


With one tank i used to get enough suction even when the level was as low as just above the outlet port. The gould pump is very powerful. This is with the spring type check valve.

The tanks are like maybe 6” or less height difference. Not much difference tbh.

Yea i got an in tank float on one. I figure if that level drops low enough then the other may not be too far behind but i will monitor the operation and check both levels to see how it going

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » August 20th, 2021, 8:32 pm

6” is not much diff so u don’t need check valves or anything
in fact u could prob run the fill in the taller tank unless the heights of the fill holes differ by more than 6”

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eitech
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » August 20th, 2021, 8:37 pm

Everything already installed but i will monitor. Both filling lines jus tee off the supply and goes to each tank with isolation so i can work on either tank without affecting the other.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby k_quk8v4 » August 21st, 2021, 6:12 pm

Does anyone know where I can get steel rods at the best prices these days. 1/2 and 3/8
and 1/4 sizes

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 24th, 2021, 10:23 am

Folks.

I have a quantity of geotextile fabric left over from my recently completed project.

12.5 ft wide x 190 ft long.

It was more cost effective to buy a roll rather than the length I needed.

Full disclosure:

If you were to buy this in precut pieces, it's sold at $675 (VI) for 25 feet long. At that rate, it'll cost about $5,000 for the approx. 200 feet I have left over.

I paid $4,348.69 (VI) for this roll which came with 360 feet. With the length remaining calculated at unit price, the remaining 190 feet on the roll is $2,295.

Any takers for this roll for $1,800? You'll need to bring your transport.

This geotextile fabric is made for lining soakaway, rubble drains, french drains and as a surface barrier before top dressing. It is also ideal for use in landscaping as a weed block and is far more effective and durable than what is sold as a weed block at hardwares. It is also suitable for wrapping your septic tank (as I did) as a form of dirt proofing after water proofing the same.

Message or PM me if interested.

Thanks.
JPEG_20210824_101432_8327185561248627807.jpg
JPEG_20210824_101416_2355362413413919605.jpg

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timelapse
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby timelapse » August 24th, 2021, 10:45 am

Thats the thing they make grow bags with?

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 24th, 2021, 11:15 am

Not sure.

It is quite thick even though it's permeable.

I am sure it can be fashioned into a grow bag.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Jerry84 » August 25th, 2021, 7:29 pm

carluva wrote:Folks.

I have a quantity of geotextile fabric left over from my recently completed project.

12.5 ft wide x 190 ft long.

It was more cost effective to buy a roll rather than the length I needed.

Full disclosure:

If you were to buy this in precut pieces, it's sold at $675 (VI) for 25 feet long. At that rate, it'll cost about $5,000 for the approx. 200 feet I have left over.

I paid $4,348.69 (VI) for this roll which came with 360 feet. With the length remaining calculated at unit price, the remaining 190 feet on the roll is $2,295.

Any takers for this roll for $1,800? You'll need to bring your transport.

This geotextile fabric is made for lining soakaway, rubble drains, french drains and as a surface barrier before top dressing. It is also ideal for use in landscaping as a weed block and is far more effective and durable than what is sold as a weed block at hardwares. It is also suitable for wrapping your septic tank (as I did) as a form of dirt proofing after water proofing the same.

Message or PM me if interested.

Thanks.
JPEG_20210824_101416_2355362413413919605.jpg
JPEG_20210824_101432_8327185561248627807.jpg
What's your location sir? Want to know how feasible/budget friendly it is for me as I have to organize transport which would have to be factored into my cost.

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » August 25th, 2021, 8:39 pm

Jerry84 wrote:
carluva wrote:Folks.

I have a quantity of geotextile fabric left over from my recently completed project.

12.5 ft wide x 190 ft long.

It was more cost effective to buy a roll rather than the length I needed.

Full disclosure:

If you were to buy this in precut pieces, it's sold at $675 (VI) for 25 feet long. At that rate, it'll cost about $5,000 for the approx. 200 feet I have left over.

I paid $4,348.69 (VI) for this roll which came with 360 feet. With the length remaining calculated at unit price, the remaining 190 feet on the roll is $2,295.

Any takers for this roll for $1,800? You'll need to bring your transport.

This geotextile fabric is made for lining soakaway, rubble drains, french drains and as a surface barrier before top dressing. It is also ideal for use in landscaping as a weed block and is far more effective and durable than what is sold as a weed block at hardwares. It is also suitable for wrapping your septic tank (as I did) as a form of dirt proofing after water proofing the same.

Message or PM me if interested.

Thanks.
JPEG_20210824_101416_2355362413413919605.jpg
JPEG_20210824_101432_8327185561248627807.jpg
What's your location sir? Want to know how feasible/budget friendly it is for me as I have to organize transport which would have to be factored into my cost.
Check your PM.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby rexsmith » August 31st, 2021, 10:35 am

To all painters out there what is the average rate per square foot for painting internal walls, doors, cupboards, skirting etc.
i know walls are charged by sq. ft and skirting are charged by linear foot, doors are a standard price, what about cupboard doors and drawer face?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby supercharged turbo » September 5th, 2021, 12:15 pm

I'm getting some water seepage between the flashing and wall.We used sikaflex previously to fill the gap and it worked for awhile but it seems the sikaflex is becoming loose allowing water to seep in.I'm thinking to use either some flex seal or the Lake Asphalt Sealant in the quart.Any suggestions?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Gladiator » September 5th, 2021, 10:31 pm

supercharged turbo wrote:I'm getting some water seepage between the flashing and wall.We used sikaflex previously to fill the gap and it worked for awhile but it seems the sikaflex is becoming loose allowing water to seep in.I'm thinking to use either some flex seal or the Lake Asphalt Sealant in the quart.Any suggestions?


Flexseal is an absolute waste of time...you better off using regular clear silicone.

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carluva
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » September 6th, 2021, 7:14 am

You will need a sealant that is best suited for roofing and can stand up to the weather.

You should also look for a high build sealant as typically, the normal silicone can only do a max of 1/4" bead thickness. Anything larger and the Brad would sag and pull away from the gap being sealed.

Geocel 2300 (purple tube) is a very good sealant used by many roof persons. There is also Enduro but iirc, this is in a can or pail so needs to be applied with a small trowel.

Then there is also a strip of good old flashband. But this will not have the aesthetic appeal depending on the location of the roof.


.
supercharged turbo wrote:I'm getting some water seepage between the flashing and wall.We used sikaflex previously to fill the gap and it worked for awhile but it seems the sikaflex is becoming loose allowing water to seep in.I'm thinking to use either some flex seal or the Lake Asphalt Sealant in the quart.Any suggestions?

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