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Yes, these are all epoxy adhesives.fokhan_96 wrote:Another one is pc concrete.Phone Surgeon wrote:Yes it has several products.Jerry84 wrote:Any suggestions for a product/adhesive to bond rebar with concrete? Have a situation with a perimeter wall where I need to raise it by a few block heights, thus having to extend the concrete posts 8 ft apart. I was told that I can drill the top of these posts to put in the additional rebar with the adhesive which would hold pretty well. Sadly the person giving the advice didn't know the exact product. Any suggestions /comments?
One is called "anchorset"
You get that by afzal hardware in el socorro.
There are many other brands and types though.
They are more or less epoxy.
Jerry84 wrote:Do you have a contact for a representative who is charging this price per meter of concrete? At this price I will definitely go with them providing they are a reputable company.Phone Surgeon wrote:775 to 850
I'm in the process of doing a decking 30ft x 30ft with an opening of 12ft x 4ft for a step. Want to know how much concrete I will need in order to work out some budgetary issues.
Well the staircase was enclosed roughly 6 years ago after about 15 or so years so this may be the case.zorced wrote:kerwinishere wrote:Noticed that the reinforcement on the underside of the waist of my exterior staircase is corroded, this has lead to exposed reinforcement and spots with about 4 sq in. Of exposed rebar. Anyone has experience using a product such as Rust Treet from Inter-Chem to treat this? Plan is to apply the product and then reapply mortar to the affected spots.
Is the rebar also corroded? I have a small area like that due to water seepage. The surface above needs to be sealed properly and the extent of corrosion might need to be checked because it may be hidden.
Steel structure bro. So the concrete is only decking.carluva wrote:Hang on. You are using decking pan.
Therefore your beams are already in place not so?
Have your concrete estimates been based on site visits or over the phone conversation?
Jerry84 wrote:So I've been calling around for concrete estimates and I have been getting a number for different quantities. The dimensions of the decking is 30ft x 29ft with an opening of 12ft x 4ft for a step. I've been told that I need 17 meters of concrete, 14 meters and as much as 21 meters, all checking a 5 inch thickness on decking pan. When I googled a concrete calculator I came up with much less, a whopping 10.4 meters and the calculator was for a standard 5" thickness throughout.
Correct me if I'm wrong but with decking pan there will be [b]"ridges and valleys", the latter having the 5" thickness of concrete. [B]Is there anyone here who can verify the volume of concrete needed for my application?
Much thanks
Central concretePhone Surgeon wrote:Lol what company tell you 21 meters?
Wanted to clarify the amount of concrete needed. My assumption is these companies tell you a much higher volume over the phone with the expectation of minimal fluctuations (1-2 meters).carluva wrote:I have consistently used Coosal's.
Sometimes these sales reps make some unreasonable assumptions over the phone. I suggest you select one supplier and ask him to do a site visit. Once you have your volume of concrete and the concrete spec in mind, you can then call around to get your best pricing.
I'm using 20g decking pan. The space between beams are approximately 8 feet. Most likely I will still support these spaces with props.adnj wrote:Jerry84 wrote:So I've been calling around for concrete estimates and I have been getting a number for different quantities. The dimensions of the decking is 30ft x 29ft with an opening of 12ft x 4ft for a step. I've been told that I need 17 meters of concrete, 14 meters and as much as 21 meters, all checking a 5 inch thickness on decking pan. When I googled a concrete calculator I came up with much less, a whopping 10.4 meters and the calculator was for a standard 5" thickness throughout.
Correct me if I'm wrong but with decking pan there will be [b]"ridges and valleys", the latter having the 5" thickness of concrete. [B]Is there anyone here who can verify the volume of concrete needed for my application?
Much thanks
It depends on the decking pan that you are using. There are different profiles.
For a common three inch rise decking pan with a five inch slab (two inches above the rise), expect to use about 0.096 m^3 per sq m of floor space. Your floorspace is 822 sq m.
With 10% wastage, 8 m^3.
Move to an 8 inch slab (0.16 m^3 per sq m), you go to 13.5 m^3 including wastage.
I have used Coosal's in the past and they've proven to be effective. I called the rep I dealt with before but he's no longer with them.carluva wrote:I have consistently used Coosal's.
Sometimes these sales reps make some unreasonable assumptions over the phone. I suggest you select one supplier and ask him to do a site visit. Once you have your volume of concrete and the concrete spec in mind, you can then call around to get your best pricing.
Tell me more about this waterproofing you mentioned.carluva wrote:Yeah. The specs I am referring to include compressive strength (i.e. psi which is based on mix design) any additives or retardants which improve workability, adjust curing time and which add a feature such as waterproofing.
You have to insist on a site visit cause they'll have to determine if a pump is needed.
Much gratitude for this information bro. Can you suggest an additive to combine with concrete for this water tight finish as I will be doing something similar to your tank stand with storage below.carluva wrote:As you know, concrete is very porous. As an example, if you wash down your concrete driveway and you leave the water to pool, eventually the water will be absorbed into the concrete.
What makes concrete porous is that there are many voids in the cured product. These voids exists at the microscopic level and at the level that is visible to the naked eye. It is in these voids that water will travel and this is what causes concrete to be porous and to absorb water.
In concrete that is commonly exposed to water, for example a water tank stand, this can present a problem as the water absorbed in the concrete can result in rot in the rebar. As the rebar begins to rot, rust develops and the rust forms a layer which, over time, cracks and then deforms the concrete around the rebar. This process repeats and overtime it can result in your concrete shelling out.
Waterproofing additives serve to create chemical bonds that fill these voids in the concrete and therefore reduce the porosity of the concrete and the ability for the concrete absorb water. In other words, some of the additives may form a crystalline structure that completely seals all voids within the concrete at the microscopic level and therefore makes the concrete impervious to water. This helps to prevent any corrosion developing in embedded rebar and will result in a long term protection for the structure.
When I did a water tank stand a few years ago, I cast the decking and used a waterproofing additive in the concrete. Underneath the tank stand, I have several storage rooms and over time I have observed that there is no ingress of water through the top decking seeping into the roof of the rooms underneath.
If you would like to make your decking completely waterproof, you can consider adding a waterproofing additive to the concrete. This may be a great benefit in your case because your support for the decking is decking pan, which even though is zinc plated, can still be subject to the effect of moisture and subsequent rust. If you plan to cast this decking and leave it for some time, possibly a few years I would advise using the waterproofing additive. If, however, immediately after casting the decking, you choose to start blocking up and eventually put a roof over the structure, perhaps within a year or so, I would say there is no need to to use the additive and you will achieve waterproofing through the roof of the house.
worksux101 wrote:Vulkem was used on my outdoor porch. Costs a mint but no issues yet.
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