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Soul Collector wrote:carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
The air is coming mainly from gaps in the window frame itself after taking another look. Once the frame is closed, there are gaps of 1/4" or less vertically (where iron window frame meets main iron housing) and smaller gaps on the underneath/top of the frame.
There's no space between any of the masonry work, just that the frames don't fit very tightly or snug once closed. The curtains are always blowing as if windows are opened when a strong breeze passes, lol
timelapse wrote:Car trunk rubber by Radica's should be cheap
The good part is that it sells by the yard and has different profiles.My dad built my windows for me, square af, he left a piece of steel welded on it to keep it square while installing.Soul Collector wrote:timelapse wrote:Car trunk rubber by Radica's should be cheap
Thanks.
Will give the rubber a try, seems like the best option for what I need. If for some reason it doesn't work out will try the tape and maybe hit you up carluva when passing through central.
Will skip the silicone as it's a lot of windows and don't want to go through all that mess.
BTW - if I wanted to add a layer of UV protection to help block sunlight/heat from affecting the room, do I just use car tint or is there something for home use I can apply to the windows?
The walls heat up in a ridiculous way in this part of the house, especially around those iron burglar proof frames. I was studying to bolt on some plywood onto the walls that heat up to act as a cheap/quick insulator. I don't care how it looks, once the room is comfortable to be in. Sun hits both walls from 1pm-sunset creating a sauna. Trying to control what I can to decrease the need for AC and also having to push it extra at those times of day.
Soul Collector wrote:timelapse wrote:Car trunk rubber by Radica's should be cheap
Thanks.
Will give the rubber a try, seems like the best option for what I need. If for some reason it doesn't work out will try the tape and maybe hit you up carluva when passing through central.
Will skip the silicone as it's a lot of windows and don't want to go through all that mess.
BTW - if I wanted to add a layer of UV protection to help block sunlight/heat from affecting the room, do I just use car tint or is there something for home use I can apply to the windows?
The walls heat up in a ridiculous way in this part of the house, especially around those iron burglar proof frames. I was studying to bolt on some plywood onto the walls that heat up to act as a cheap/quick insulator. I don't care how it looks, once the room is comfortable to be in. Sun hits both walls from 1pm-sunset creating a sauna. Trying to control what I can to decrease the need for AC and also having to push it extra at those times of day.
pugboy wrote:you need to block the sun from hitting the walls, awning or such.
you can put the clear uv blocking tint on the glass.
btw those windows made with flat bars ?
carluva wrote:I don't have steel windows... UPVC.
Anyhow, from your pic, is it possible to bend the flats that the handle locks onto so that the handle pulls the window tighter when locked, thereby providing a tighter seal?
Soul Collector wrote:Going to try Liquid Nails. A friend has some extra so will opt for that instead of glue or silicone.
Now googled to make sure exactly what it is, lol - "LIQUID NAILS® Polyurethane Construction Adhesive"
pugboy wrote:i now see your problem
just use the acrylic latex caulk that comes in a cartridge, squeeze a bead around 3/8 on the frame side and then put strips of glad wrap over the bead then close the window to squeeze it conform to the gap
when it dries open window and pull off the plastic then trim with a sharp knife
the acrylic can take paint
Soul Collector wrote:pugboy wrote:i now see your problem
just use the acrylic latex caulk that comes in a cartridge, squeeze a bead around 3/8 on the frame side and then put strips of glad wrap over the bead then close the window to squeeze it conform to the gap
when it dries open window and pull off the plastic then trim with a sharp knife
the acrylic can take paint
Ya know, this sounding like it worth a try before the rubber - at least for the large windows like what in the pic. The small ones on top could all take a thick piece of rubber same size, as the gaps way bigger than what shown in the pic.
But with the larger windows, the gap gets bigger in the upper half of the frame only, so the rubber might have had to mix and match sizes for a snug fit. Will give the caulk a go so it can just conform in one shot as you said. Much appreciated
pugboy wrote:that is what acrylic made for, if you read the labels, esp as they make it to take paint compared to silicone rubber.
it also washes off with water and easy to cut after.
if you dont get big enough seal just put more after first set dry.
Car trunk rubber has grooves that fit the window framecarluva wrote:Cool. Curious. How is the rubber fastened? Glue, silicone, urethane sealant?
Thanks will check. Its a new shower mixer i bought. Before i install just wanted to see if replacements available. Once i get would buy a couple and keep.Phone Surgeon wrote:bhagwansinghs trincity for sure has a large selection of those, carry the old one
never really seen them at bhagwansingh chaguanas
you could call enfix as well in cunupia to find out
Soul Collector wrote:pugboy wrote:i now see your problem
just use the acrylic latex caulk that comes in a cartridge, squeeze a bead around 3/8 on the frame side and then put strips of glad wrap over the bead then close the window to squeeze it conform to the gap
when it dries open window and pull off the plastic then trim with a sharp knife
the acrylic can take paint
Ya know, this sounding like it worth a try before the rubber - at least for the large windows like what in the pic. The small ones on top could all take a thick piece of rubber same size, as the gaps way bigger than what shown in the pic.
But with the larger windows, the gap gets bigger in the upper half of the frame only, so the rubber might have had to mix and match sizes for a snug fit. Will give the caulk a go so it can just conform in one shot as you said. Much appreciated
CorrectRayden6 wrote:when building a wall, the wall has to be on the inside of the boundary markers on the owners side correct?
ASKING FOR A FRIEND
Rayden6 wrote:but it have some ASS does build it dead centre and wanna say its them wall, when it build on the opposite side just because the build it. WHAT would you do
Ryan197912 wrote:Rayden6 wrote:but it have some ASS does build it dead centre and wanna say its them wall, when it build on the opposite side just because the build it. WHAT would you do
Fight, curse, pull cutlass for 2 inches of land
Joshie23 wrote:Ryan197912 wrote:Rayden6 wrote:but it have some ASS does build it dead centre and wanna say its them wall, when it build on the opposite side just because the build it. WHAT would you do
Fight, curse, pull cutlass for 2 inches of land
2" of land on the 100' length of a standard, 5,000 ft² lot of land is around 17 ft². In places where land is $250 psf, that's $4,250...worth it?
Joshie23 wrote:Ryan197912 wrote:Rayden6 wrote:but it have some ASS does build it dead centre and wanna say its them wall, when it build on the opposite side just because the build it. WHAT would you do
Fight, curse, pull cutlass for 2 inches of land
2" of land on the 100' length of a standard, 5,000 ft² lot of land is around 17 ft². In places where land is $250 psf, that's $4,250...worth it?
Ryan197912 wrote:Joshie23 wrote:Ryan197912 wrote:Rayden6 wrote:but it have some ASS does build it dead centre and wanna say its them wall, when it build on the opposite side just because the build it. WHAT would you do
Fight, curse, pull cutlass for 2 inches of land
2" of land on the 100' length of a standard, 5,000 ft² lot of land is around 17 ft². In places where land is $250 psf, that's $4,250...worth it?
Or hire an attorney like myself....for around 2500 I would send a Pre-Action Protocol letter to the offender.
And if not settled initate legal action at a cost to you of 20k,(to start) you will also be required to pay a surveyor about 6k to determine if any or the amount of encroachment that occurred.
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