Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
zorced wrote:Are there any local solutions for water pump housing but the ones with tank and not the smarthead type? (They will need to be bigger). Or better to go custom?
The pic is from Water Source.
Kenjo wrote:zorced wrote:Are there any local solutions for water pump housing but the ones with tank and not the smarthead type? (They will need to be bigger). Or better to go custom?
The pic is from Water Source.FB_IMG_1636381652063.jpeg
Feel you might need to customize . What is the benefit of the smart head over the tank though ?
wheelbarrow wrote:Dave wrote:Definitive guide now.... smart head vs pressure tank?
Smarthead
Pros:
Protects pump from running if there is no water being pumped.
No maintenance until something is damaged.
Ease of installation. Jus connect pipes and plug in.
Simple repairs as it's either the circuit board, diaphragm or base will be the issue with a smarthead. If cost of repair parts crosses 1/2 the price of a whole smarthead, jus buy a whole new smarthead.
Passive protection of motor winding as circuit board will most times burn out in electrical issues before pump motor.
Cons:
Too many cheap poorly made models on the market make sure to buy one originating from Europe.
Circuit Board damaged my voltage issues.
If SmartHead is damaged most times pump will not run at all, this means no pressurised water until repaired.
Very sensitive to leaks on system.
Some models cannot regulate cut in and cut off pressures.
Pressure Tank
Pros:
Can set cut in and cut out pressures on pressure switch.
Once properly sized, it will ensure that pump motor runs for at least 1 min when the motor comes on, this will allow for proper cooling of the motor.
Very simple to repair and conduct maintenance, and if the pressure tank or pressure switch is damaged pump can still temporarily run until damaged part can be replaced.
Cons:
Cannot tell if no water is being pumped (unless a float switch or low level pressure switch is used)
If a valve supplying water is locked off in error to the pump, a normal pressure switch will not know and the pump will run without water and eventually lock up and burn out the motor.
Possibility of voltage drop issues with the use of float switches that are installed without the proper size of wiring
Hassle of having to run a float switch out to water tanks which are sometimes located far from pump
Also, if you don't have a float switch or low level protection installed on a pressure tank/pressure switch system your warranty will be voided.
Needs Maintainance. Pressure tank air pressure should be checked every 6 months.
Pressure Switch and pump motor can be damaged if pressure tank air goes too low and pump begins to short cycle.
Most local distributors/hardwares have options with pressure tanks that are too small for the pump, improperly setting the cut in and cut out pressures with these small tanks will lead to premature failure of the pump.
Alot of cheap, poorly made, disposable pressure tanks on the market which do not have the option to replace the diaphragm.
Larger higher quality pressure tanks that can be repaired are very expensive.
Please make sure you install an outlet check valve to protect both the SmartHead and Pressure Tank from mains pressure.
I will add if I think of anything else.
zorced wrote:Kenjo wrote:zorced wrote:Are there any local solutions for water pump housing but the ones with tank and not the smarthead type? (They will need to be bigger). Or better to go custom?
The pic is from Water Source.FB_IMG_1636381652063.jpeg
Feel you might need to customize . What is the benefit of the smart head over the tank though ?
The smarthead electronically engages the pump. Sales person did not do the best of jobs in convincing me, so my plumber made it easy to go with the pressure tank instead.
Just saw this write up today, check it out for more info.
The point about it being very sensitive to leaks could cause higher electricity consumption till repaired.wheelbarrow wrote:Dave wrote:Definitive guide now.... smart head vs pressure tank?
Smarthead
Pros:
Protects pump from running if there is no water being pumped.
No maintenance until something is damaged.
Ease of installation. Jus connect pipes and plug in.
Simple repairs as it's either the circuit board, diaphragm or base will be the issue with a smarthead. If cost of repair parts crosses 1/2 the price of a whole smarthead, jus buy a whole new smarthead.
Passive protection of motor winding as circuit board will most times burn out in electrical issues before pump motor.
Cons:
Too many cheap poorly made models on the market make sure to buy one originating from Europe.
Circuit Board damaged my voltage issues.
If SmartHead is damaged most times pump will not run at all, this means no pressurised water until repaired.
Very sensitive to leaks on system.
Some models cannot regulate cut in and cut off pressures.
Pressure Tank
Pros:
Can set cut in and cut out pressures on pressure switch.
Once properly sized, it will ensure that pump motor runs for at least 1 min when the motor comes on, this will allow for proper cooling of the motor.
Very simple to repair and conduct maintenance, and if the pressure tank or pressure switch is damaged pump can still temporarily run until damaged part can be replaced.
Cons:
Cannot tell if no water is being pumped (unless a float switch or low level pressure switch is used)
If a valve supplying water is locked off in error to the pump, a normal pressure switch will not know and the pump will run without water and eventually lock up and burn out the motor.
Possibility of voltage drop issues with the use of float switches that are installed without the proper size of wiring
Hassle of having to run a float switch out to water tanks which are sometimes located far from pump
Also, if you don't have a float switch or low level protection installed on a pressure tank/pressure switch system your warranty will be voided.
Needs Maintainance. Pressure tank air pressure should be checked every 6 months.
Pressure Switch and pump motor can be damaged if pressure tank air goes too low and pump begins to short cycle.
Most local distributors/hardwares have options with pressure tanks that are too small for the pump, improperly setting the cut in and cut out pressures with these small tanks will lead to premature failure of the pump.
Alot of cheap, poorly made, disposable pressure tanks on the market which do not have the option to replace the diaphragm.
Larger higher quality pressure tanks that can be repaired are very expensive.
Please make sure you install an outlet check valve to protect both the SmartHead and Pressure Tank from mains pressure.
I will add if I think of anything else.
You can use the same housing just place the pressure tank on the outside, not on top the pump.zorced wrote:Are there any local solutions for water pump housing but the ones with tank and not the smarthead type? (They will need to be bigger). Or better to go custom?
The pic is from Water Source.
fokhan_96 wrote:You can use the same housing just place the pressure tank on the outside, not on top the pump.zorced wrote:Are there any local solutions for water pump housing but the ones with tank and not the smarthead type? (They will need to be bigger). Or better to go custom?
The pic is from Water Source.
No. It depends on the pressure setting on your pressure switch. The pressure in the pressure tank should be set at 2 psi less than the cut in pressure. So if the pressure switch cut in/cut out is 30/50, then the pressure tank should be set at 28 psi.eitech wrote:Does the pressure tank size affect its pressure setting requirement for proper operation? Or it should be a standard pressure? I don’t have any issues however i would like to check the pressure. I noticed a standard valve on top like that found on on a tyre.
timelapse wrote:Question for allyuh nerds.
Is there any kind of device that I can put on my house water system that would force air out of the water line?
eitech wrote:timelapse wrote:Question for allyuh nerds.
Is there any kind of device that I can put on my house water system that would force air out of the water line?
Usually once your mains pressure is good just open your pipes especially those at higher levels and air should be purged. I usually do that when i flush my water heater
VexXx Dogg wrote:90PSI? that's real high from WASA. you sure that measurement correct?
VexXx Dogg wrote:wta! you getting reaaaal juuuuice dey.
eitech wrote:Should i be concerned if my water mains pressure hits 90psi once in awhile. Haven’t got any leaks but is it possible for wasa to send too much and cause damage?
pugboy wrote:very common in areas close to hilly areas since wasa has to send high pressure for the water to make it up the hill areas.
eg many places along saddle road maraval see 100psi+
you should get a pressure regulator installed before a pipe in your walls burst and real headache to fix.
they are around $900 for a good one to put on your mains.
you should split the mains and let the line which fills your water tank be unregulated so it can fill tanks quick.eitech wrote:Should i be concerned if my water mains pressure hits 90psi once in awhile. Haven’t got any leaks but is it possible for wasa to send too much and cause damage?
eitech wrote:Ugh hardly have working space by the mains. Hada work out something
pugboy wrote:all these things should be up off the ground and preferably on a wall so easy to service down the road
the worst is having to dig up ground to do plumbing workeitech wrote:Ugh hardly have working space by the mains. Hada work out something
Jerry84 wrote:Good night. So I am exploring the option of fabricating a steel structure above my garage. Dimensions are 30ft in length by 27 ft wide. Most fabricators telling me I have to trench all the way around but I'm not putting up any walls around. My initial thought based on advice from a contractor in my family was to auger the area where the butts are going (9ft deep) and not trench all the way around. What are your thoughts?
Another question is if the butts are 4ft x 4ft, does the studs for the post need to be in the center of the matting or could it be off to one side (closer to the existing house)? Also would I have to auger the middle of the footing or does it have to be below the studs?
Looking to do this on a budget of 100k ie groundwork and steel frame. Is this achievable? Span between posts is 26ft. No post in the middle. Total of 6 posts.
eitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing.
pugboy wrote:you need to give more infoeitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing.
pugboy wrote:probably concrete mixed badly so porous
you could pressure wash it and try roofing compound which is a rubbery paint from kaleidoscope
or the best rubber sealer is vulchem $800
Return to “Ole talk and more Ole talk”
Users browsing this forum: Duane 3NE 2NR and 193 guests