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Habit7 wrote:carluva wrote:Habit7 wrote:Who does mountings of ceiling fans?
If wiring is already in place, this is fairly easy for a competent DIYer. I have done two in my home already, with some help to lift the fan motor.
However, you need to ensure a few things for safety purposes:
1. A Metal Octagon Can must be installed in the ceiling. Not PVC. The fan is affixed to the metal can which is structurally stronger than a PVC.
2. The metal can must be strapped to the ceiling. In other words, C-Channel must be screwed to the can and this C-Channel is then screwed to the roof purlins (if possible). If this cannot be done, the cross braces using C-Channel can be screwed to the can and then affixed to the C-Channel for the ceiling (if suspended gypsum ceiling). Other means of safely strapping are acceptable depending on ceiling type, but the goal is to ensure that the octagon can is safely secured to a stronger part of the structure to be able to take the suspended weight of a ceiling fan and the accompanying forces when on.
3. If securing to the underside of concrete decking, ideally, the octagon can should have been set flush on the underside of the decking (i.e. the "ceiling") and secured to rebar accordingly.
If none of these exist or are possible, do not install the ceiling fan. It is a safety hazard.
Once the octagon can is safely secured, you can then install the fan affixed to the octagon can. The fan will have all the necessary bracketry to install on a can.
It's a gypsum ceiling on the top floor so it will need something to support it. I trust myself to change a light bulb, beyond that in the electrical department, I like to call a professional.
De Dragon wrote:Habit7 wrote:carluva wrote:Habit7 wrote:Who does mountings of ceiling fans?
If wiring is already in place, this is fairly easy for a competent DIYer. I have done two in my home already, with some help to lift the fan motor.
However, you need to ensure a few things for safety purposes:
1. A Metal Octagon Can must be installed in the ceiling. Not PVC. The fan is affixed to the metal can which is structurally stronger than a PVC.
2. The metal can must be strapped to the ceiling. In other words, C-Channel must be screwed to the can and this C-Channel is then screwed to the roof purlins (if possible). If this cannot be done, the cross braces using C-Channel can be screwed to the can and then affixed to the C-Channel for the ceiling (if suspended gypsum ceiling). Other means of safely strapping are acceptable depending on ceiling type, but the goal is to ensure that the octagon can is safely secured to a stronger part of the structure to be able to take the suspended weight of a ceiling fan and the accompanying forces when on.
3. If securing to the underside of concrete decking, ideally, the octagon can should have been set flush on the underside of the decking (i.e. the "ceiling") and secured to rebar accordingly.
If none of these exist or are possible, do not install the ceiling fan. It is a safety hazard.
Once the octagon can is safely secured, you can then install the fan affixed to the octagon can. The fan will have all the necessary bracketry to install on a can.
It's a gypsum ceiling on the top floor so it will need something to support it. I trust myself to change a light bulb, beyond that in the electrical department, I like to call a professional.
My wife and I did 3 last year, two in bedrooms and one in the living room. First time I did this, and the instructions especially wrt the wiring diagram were a godsend. The only issue is that I had to get longer threaded sleeves for the mount to the can, as the supplied ones were too short. The brand was Hunter from PriceSmart. Make sure to follow the instructions and you'll be good. Gypsum ceiling as well.
Hey buy a bottle or a case of Stag, throw on a pelau, and we can discuss some politics while I help you install it
Habit7 wrote:De Dragon wrote:Habit7 wrote:carluva wrote:Habit7 wrote:Who does mountings of ceiling fans?
If wiring is already in place, this is fairly easy for a competent DIYer. I have done two in my home already, with some help to lift the fan motor.
However, you need to ensure a few things for safety purposes:
1. A Metal Octagon Can must be installed in the ceiling. Not PVC. The fan is affixed to the metal can which is structurally stronger than a PVC.
2. The metal can must be strapped to the ceiling. In other words, C-Channel must be screwed to the can and this C-Channel is then screwed to the roof purlins (if possible). If this cannot be done, the cross braces using C-Channel can be screwed to the can and then affixed to the C-Channel for the ceiling (if suspended gypsum ceiling). Other means of safely strapping are acceptable depending on ceiling type, but the goal is to ensure that the octagon can is safely secured to a stronger part of the structure to be able to take the suspended weight of a ceiling fan and the accompanying forces when on.
3. If securing to the underside of concrete decking, ideally, the octagon can should have been set flush on the underside of the decking (i.e. the "ceiling") and secured to rebar accordingly.
If none of these exist or are possible, do not install the ceiling fan. It is a safety hazard.
Once the octagon can is safely secured, you can then install the fan affixed to the octagon can. The fan will have all the necessary bracketry to install on a can.
It's a gypsum ceiling on the top floor so it will need something to support it. I trust myself to change a light bulb, beyond that in the electrical department, I like to call a professional.
My wife and I did 3 last year, two in bedrooms and one in the living room. First time I did this, and the instructions especially wrt the wiring diagram were a godsend. The only issue is that I had to get longer threaded sleeves for the mount to the can, as the supplied ones were too short. The brand was Hunter from PriceSmart. Make sure to follow the instructions and you'll be good. Gypsum ceiling as well.
Hey buy a bottle or a case of Stag, throw on a pelau, and we can discuss some politics while I help you install it
I need to install the bracing above the gypsum to support it. I was hoping for a ceiling guy who knows a little electrical. I will ask around.
Habit7 wrote:yeah but I'm afraid it is not strong enough, I don't want a wining fan.
Habit7 wrote:I need to install the bracing above the gypsum to support it. I was hoping for a ceiling guy who knows a little electrical. I will ask around.
VexXx Dogg wrote:Any recent recommendations for foundation to finish residential contractors? turnkey options even better.
I saw HJ Designs on social media and their stuff looks good - dunno anyone who used them tho: https://www.facebook.com/hjdesignsltd
Another is
ALJA development: https://www.facebook.com/aljadevelopment
Phone Surgeon wrote:anyone buy backfill recently?
what 20 yard loads going for
2WNBoost wrote:I’m interested in some remodeling work.
Not convinced the former has any real experience and the latter did not return calls after the initial meeting.
Are there any others who do designs and do or coordinate the build?
ThanksVexXx Dogg wrote:Any recent recommendations for foundation to finish residential contractors? turnkey options even better.
I saw HJ Designs on social media and their stuff looks good - dunno anyone who used them tho: https://www.facebook.com/hjdesignsltd
Another is
ALJA development: https://www.facebook.com/aljadevelopment
carluva wrote:Cutover to new septic tank complete. Will button up in the morning. Being filled with water atm.
Observation and point to note.
We have two toilets upstairs and one downstairs. The line to the new septic tank had to be extended by about 20 feet.
When the two toilets upstairs are flushed because of the gravity, the water is able to quickly reach the septic tank. However the toilet downstairs takes a while to reach and barely so partly because there are a few bends that have to take place. It seems as though some buildup has to occur in this line before it can flow, but I am sure that stuff stays in.
Luckily I have several cleanouts at grade. I flushed them each out with a hose a lo and behold, waste came through into the new septic tank. So, always install cleanouts especially at bends in the line. And I plan to flush these cleanouts weekly or twice weekly based on what I have seen today. So the same should be done.
Ideally though, the shorter the line from the house to the septic tank with the fewest bends possible, the better.IMG_20210806_180152834.jpgIMG_20210806_180158829_HDR.jpgIMG_20210806_180204535_HDR.jpg
2WNBoost wrote:I’m interested in some remodeling work.
Not convinced the former has any real experience and the latter did not return calls after the initial meeting.
Are there any others who do designs and do or coordinate the build?
ThanksVexXx Dogg wrote:Any recent recommendations for foundation to finish residential contractors? turnkey options even better.
I saw HJ Designs on social media and their stuff looks good - dunno anyone who used them tho: https://www.facebook.com/hjdesignsltd
Another is
ALJA development: https://www.facebook.com/aljadevelopment
2WNBoost wrote:I’m interested in some remodeling work.
Not convinced the former has any real experience and the latter did not return calls after the initial meeting.
Are there any others who do designs and do or coordinate the build?
ThanksVexXx Dogg wrote:Any recent recommendations for foundation to finish residential contractors? turnkey options even better.
I saw HJ Designs on social media and their stuff looks good - dunno anyone who used them tho: https://www.facebook.com/hjdesignsltd
Another is
ALJA development: https://www.facebook.com/aljadevelopment
carluva wrote:That's good.
Was that clean fill or the fill with clay?
Whatever it is, that's a good price but likely you got that because of the quantity.
Musical Doc wrote:Hey guys, I have a piece of driveway that was done a year ago and the area that the 2nd batch of readymix was used, the top is washing away a bit exposing the aggregate. I was in contact with a guy from SCL to recommend how to repair it but have been getting run around. Can anybody recommend any method and products to use to repair this?
carluva wrote:Size of area?
What do you mean by the 2nd batch of ready-mix?
Can you send some pics of the spalling concrete?
Spalling is common when the old school masons trowel finish when the concrete releases the water during the pour and compensate by throwing some cement on top. The best time to trowel finish is after the concrete has pulled back in the water. Most masons can't wait for this and do what they normally do, almost always at the risk to the customer in the long run.Musical Doc wrote:Hey guys, I have a piece of driveway that was done a year ago and the area that the 2nd batch of readymix was used, the top is washing away a bit exposing the aggregate. I was in contact with a guy from SCL to recommend how to repair it but have been getting run around. Can anybody recommend any method and products to use to repair this?
carluva wrote:Agree that the sales persons from SCL are not the most reliable at times.
I would suggest you call the SCL solutions store in Barataria. The persons there are very knowledgeable and are able to get through to the product experts if they don't know. And in my experience, they do get back to you.
From what is pictured, I do believe that SCL has products that can repair your driveway. Renderoc is a repair product but there are different types suitable for different types of damage.
Another option, if you have the space at the top of the driveway that goes to your house/garage is to do a 1" to 2" screed mix above the entire driveway. It seems you have enough room from the pics to lay some board along the sides to get a 2" coverage above the existing driveway.
A good screed mix would be 3/8" pebbles with sharp sand (I used this a few years ago and have good performance). You can even add fibers to reduce cracking over time. You may even find that this will give a uniform appearance throughout rather than having the repaired section look a bit different.
I have heard of the Renderoc repair products failing as well, but I cannot recall which product this was. YMMV.
Additionally, you have a crack as well that should be dealt with. The best way to do this will be to open up the crack with a grinder and suitable disc, clean and then fill with an epoxy joint repair. This needs to be done before you repair the surface.
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