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Nexus wrote:Also sometimes they send the plans straight to the Corporation without letting you know. And corporation is where the headache is be....well i should say more headache.
thelem-again wrote:100% correct.
And I'm speaking from experience. Did an application September 18th 2019. Was approved by T&C November 1st 2019. No grease hands. No favors. No civil engineer. Did my plans through an average yet experienced draughtsman/designer.
Proper planning is important.adnj wrote:If you meet the requirements with planned usage and design of proposed structure, you will receive a response within a few weeks. Otherwise, you will receive a defects list with issues to be corrected and resubmitted.stout wrote:Anyone have links in town and country....house plan already inside
Every T&C slowdown that I have seen was due to improper land use, incorrect structure design, incorrect structure placement, incomplete submissions, or poorly drawn plans.
You can check George Sheet Works in MalabarPhone Surgeon wrote:Wheres a good option for galvanize these days?
I down to choosing between varma and bhagwansingh. Varma is $5 per foot more though.
Where bhagwansingh does get their galvanize from?
Ramlagan was cheapest but i hear their price match the quality...
shake d livin wake d dead wrote:thelem-again wrote:100% correct.
And I'm speaking from experience. Did an application September 18th 2019. Was approved by T&C November 1st 2019. No grease hands. No favors. No civil engineer. Did my plans through an average yet experienced draughtsman/designer.
Proper planning is important.adnj wrote:If you meet the requirements with planned usage and design of proposed structure, you will receive a response within a few weeks. Otherwise, you will receive a defects list with issues to be corrected and resubmitted.stout wrote:Anyone have links in town and country....house plan already inside
Every T&C slowdown that I have seen was due to improper land use, incorrect structure design, incorrect structure placement, incomplete submissions, or poorly drawn plans.
town and country is not the problem...when it reaches the cooperation, well good lord....them building inspectors
kas1992 wrote:Good day all, what size steel could be use for the foundation of a flat house?
rspann wrote:kas1992 wrote:Good day all, what size steel could be use for the foundation of a flat house?
5/8 HT rebars and 3/8 mild for stirrups and you good to go . If HT is used for stirrups , you have to understand the use of a minimum bending radius per size of the steel rebars. Your builder should also observe the stirrup placement as per the drawing . I've seen builders using undersized steel and also wrong spacing of stirrups . The catchphrase is , dat go wuk so .
pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
kas1992 wrote:Can't remember nuh, but will the half inch be an issue?pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
kas1992 wrote:I was told 1/2 was fine...so that's failure then?rspann wrote:kas1992 wrote:Good day all, what size steel could be use for the foundation of a flat house?
5/8 HT rebars and 3/8 mild for stirrups and you good to go . If HT is used for stirrups , you have to understand the use of a minimum bending radius per size of the steel rebars. Your builder should also observe the stirrup placement as per the drawing . I've seen builders using undersized steel and also wrong spacing of stirrups . The catchphrase is , dat go wuk so .
The minimum steel that is recommended is 1/2" but that depends on design and load. I have never seen anything smaller than 5/8" specified by a structural engineer.pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
adnj wrote:kas1992 wrote:I was told 1/2 was fine...so that's failure then?rspann wrote:kas1992 wrote:Good day all, what size steel could be use for the foundation of a flat house?
5/8 HT rebars and 3/8 mild for stirrups and you good to go . If HT is used for stirrups , you have to understand the use of a minimum bending radius per size of the steel rebars. Your builder should also observe the stirrup placement as per the drawing . I've seen builders using undersized steel and also wrong spacing of stirrups . The catchphrase is , dat go wuk so .The minimum steel that is recommended is 1/2" but that depends on design and load. I have never seen anything smaller than 5/8" specified by a structural engineer.pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
The mat should have more than 3" of concrete below it.
Take any of this with a grain of salt.
TTS599 has all this info for $300.
rspann wrote:pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
Ent bone does be in the center of flesh?
kas1992 wrote:I was told 1/2 was fine...so that's failure then?rspann wrote:kas1992 wrote:Good day all, what size steel could be use for the foundation of a flat house?
5/8 HT rebars and 3/8 mild for stirrups and you good to go . If HT is used for stirrups , you have to understand the use of a minimum bending radius per size of the steel rebars. Your builder should also observe the stirrup placement as per the drawing . I've seen builders using undersized steel and also wrong spacing of stirrups . The catchphrase is , dat go wuk so .
pugboy wrote:what about height location of the rebar within the concrete being cast?
pugboy wrote:I tired see men just drop the rebar setup into the channel cut into the ground
supercharged turbo wrote:I'm in the market for a new refridgerator.Is there any place up north side that is worth checking?I already have most of the places in central and south to check i.e. Fens,Reliable,American Stores,Courts etc.Feel free to add any place regardless of location if you think its worth checking.
nemisis wrote:Any one has any feedback on this contractor
https://www.facebook.com/pg/BildaBoyzCo ... d/reviews/
Prices look attractive. I have some cracks appearing on the house and I want to do some yard work to make it look more presentable, paving it so that its uniform , changing front wall etc
supercharged turbo wrote:I'm in the market for a new refridgerator.Is there any place up north side that is worth checking?I already have most of the places in central and south to check i.e. Fens,Reliable,American Stores,Courts etc.Feel free to add any place regardless of location if you think its worth checking.
Make certain that the prints are flat or slightly concave.2ndchance wrote:Hello guys. Just did a driveway but a dog walked on the wet concrete leaving some deep footprints. What do you recommend to fix?
adnj wrote:Make certain that the prints are flat or slightly concave.2ndchance wrote:Hello guys. Just did a driveway but a dog walked on the wet concrete leaving some deep footprints. What do you recommend to fix?
Mix 3 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement.
Add enough water to make it workable.
Fill the prints and let dry until firm.
Smooth and feather the fill into the surrounding concrete while sprinkling water on the surface as necessary.
For older concrete, prep with PVA and amend the concrete mix as indicated on the label.
If the concrete is less than about 90 days old, you may not need it. PVA is inexpensive and will add adhesion. If you want to use it, go ahead.2ndchance wrote:I'm concerned about the patchwork separating or cracking and lifting out after a while. Will the PVA act like a glue?adnj wrote:Make certain that the prints are flat or slightly concave.2ndchance wrote:Hello guys. Just did a driveway but a dog walked on the wet concrete leaving some deep footprints. What do you recommend to fix?
Mix 3 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement.
Add enough water to make it workable.
Fill the prints and let dry until firm.
Smooth and feather the fill into the surrounding concrete while sprinkling water on the surface as necessary.
For older concrete, prep with PVA and amend the concrete mix as indicated on the label.
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