Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
sMASH wrote:what is max working temp the compressor coudl sustain?
Use a heat exchanger in the front to take in hot air. Like a radiator to take in heat from the fan and a continuous duty pump.sMASH wrote:i want to do some cooling, but could use the hot side to do some heating too. an 80deg c should be okay. but i dont want to over shorten the life span of the compressor and refrigerant
nervewrecker wrote:Use a heat exchanger in the front to take in hot air. Like a radiator to take in heat from the fan and a continuous duty pump.sMASH wrote:i want to do some cooling, but could use the hot side to do some heating too. an 80deg c should be okay. but i dont want to over shorten the life span of the compressor and refrigerant
Unless your unit has the metering device in the evap, submerge the liquid line and scavenge heat.
Or if you capable, the discharge line.
There are hybrid units for sale btw
Saw it. Daewoo is to stay away from. He have to import that chipmaj. tom wrote:you have any old Daewoo units or fridge? a fella on the forum looking for some old boards for a particular chip.
https://www.trinituner.com/v4/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=768551&p=10305060#p10304820
Somewhere around I saw them online but price.sMASH wrote:nervewrecker wrote:Use a heat exchanger in the front to take in hot air. Like a radiator to take in heat from the fan and a continuous duty pump.sMASH wrote:i want to do some cooling, but could use the hot side to do some heating too. an 80deg c should be okay. but i dont want to over shorten the life span of the compressor and refrigerant
Unless your unit has the metering device in the evap, submerge the liquid line and scavenge heat.
Or if you capable, the discharge line.
There are hybrid units for sale btw
hybrids? go on...... lemme kno...
In our case it was instantaneous. Any chance you can check it out or recommend someone? I think we need a second opinion. We're in PoS.nervewrecker wrote:sMASH wrote:what is max working temp the compressor coudl sustain?
I cant remember the specs off the top of my head but I think inverter is over 100 deg C, conventional its lower.
They have thermal overloads built in to protect them so if it crosses a certain temp it opens the circuit till it cools down.
WRT inverter boards, when one component goes it sometimes takes others with it. Like a 4 cylinder engine, woks as a whole, but one piston ring fail the other 3 pistons will take up the strain for that one. It will run but eventually it will fail. All depends on how bad the damage is in the single cylinder. It can take out your whole engine or run a bit where you notice something is off and get it checked out.
Techs should have bought replacement boards and swapped to see which is at fault. Can refresh my memory as to what E1 is but iirc its motor.
Yes people getting critters on boards frying them.
WRT changing the entire unit, such is the case with POE oil. Its why I place emphasis on getting an install done properly in the first place.
maj.tom, I try getting info across in a manner that the average person can understand pertaining to whats in the book without over complicating it. You gimme a chance I get into pressure-enthalpy charts, fluid dynamics, comm, termination, the printery, carrier de-humidification, multi stage flash distillation etc
If comp tripping instant it's short circuit, either internal or external. Could be burnt coil, burnt wire, burnt capacitor.whizzard wrote:In our case it was instantaneous. Any chance you can check it out or recommend someone? I think we need a second opinion. We're in PoS.nervewrecker wrote:sMASH wrote:what is max working temp the compressor coudl sustain?
I cant remember the specs off the top of my head but I think inverter is over 100 deg C, conventional its lower.
They have thermal overloads built in to protect them so if it crosses a certain temp it opens the circuit till it cools down.
WRT inverter boards, when one component goes it sometimes takes others with it. Like a 4 cylinder engine, woks as a whole, but one piston ring fail the other 3 pistons will take up the strain for that one. It will run but eventually it will fail. All depends on how bad the damage is in the single cylinder. It can take out your whole engine or run a bit where you notice something is off and get it checked out.
Techs should have bought replacement boards and swapped to see which is at fault. Can refresh my memory as to what E1 is but iirc its motor.
Yes people getting critters on boards frying them.
WRT changing the entire unit, such is the case with POE oil. Its why I place emphasis on getting an install done properly in the first place.
maj.tom, I try getting info across in a manner that the average person can understand pertaining to whats in the book without over complicating it. You gimme a chance I get into pressure-enthalpy charts, fluid dynamics, comm, termination, the printery, carrier de-humidification, multi stage flash distillation etc
If is plumbing you doing, yea. I use push lock fittings from J Harriman on Cross Crossing San Fernando for medium to low pressure stuff. I use them in my condenser sprayer for my car. Trucks use them on air lines. They work fine.sMASH wrote:https://youtu.be/TofHP1moT78
Coukd the experienced guys give some feedback on these methods?
Invest in a voltage monitor....if it even have. Preferably with time delay after loss of power.nemisis wrote:So I'm looking for a 24k btw split unit l. I had a peakes unit that gave 9 years mostly issue free would still be working if not for the col3man technicians damaging it. What is the verdict from nerve with respect to reliable brand to purchase? Also anyone can give an explanation on what 5 year warranty on compressor means exactly when its 1 year on parts and labor? I ask because the first thing the technicians say like ta tec send low voltage so its not manufacturers defect so compressor not covered...
Was watching them but for over 10k best I buy a Daikin and change it in 6 years for anotherDave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
Dave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
Dave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
nemisis wrote:Was watching them but for over 10k best I buy a Daikin and change it in 6 years for anotherDave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
matix wrote:Dave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
The catch with their warranty is the service schedule. Not worth it in my opinion.
nervewrecker wrote:nemisis wrote:Was watching them but for over 10k best I buy a Daikin and change it in 6 years for anotherDave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
Depending on where you install your unit, 10 years is nothing. My gree units up going in 10 years and look like they installed yesterday.matix wrote:Dave wrote:Would the Mitsubishi place in Barataria that sells Mitsubishi be considered along the lines of the LG....parts would be hard to come by or impossible to source?
The catch with their warranty is the service schedule. Not worth it in my opinion.
Its not for everyone, some people unit need servicing every 3 months or less. Some can service every 2 years and you can get away with that.
Innovair same as the rest (midea)SuperiorMan wrote:For 18000 BTU, is the new Innovair they bringing down any good?
Or better to pay a couple hundred more for a Pioneer?
or pay even more for an Infinity with better wiring (copper etc)?
Phone Surgeon wrote:what allyuh think about this from abel? on sale
Katashi Eco-Series
$3,474.73 (VI)
Katashi air conditioning units bring the latest in cooling solutions to you.
Sizes: 18,000BTU,
Supply only: Brackets and 10ft Trunking
this is without installation.
nervewrecker wrote:Innovair same as the rest (midea)SuperiorMan wrote:For 18000 BTU, is the new Innovair they bringing down any good?
Or better to pay a couple hundred more for a Pioneer?
or pay even more for an Infinity with better wiring (copper etc)?
Pioneer built by gree.
Infinity, has coils but not pipes, at least 4 loops missing.
Return to “Ole talk and more Ole talk”
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot] and 145 guests