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rspann wrote:Some people rather not build. Me, I making sure I know what under my tiles and paint yes. There are people who build to sell and cut corners, you see it showing up years after. I saw men using 1/4" steel for stirrups, soakaway built with soft stones that melted after use. Plumbing problems ,electrical ,you name it.
adnj wrote:Now you're talking about the real problem: How can a person demonstrate that the home that they are selling was well built?
No approvals. Improper setback and grade. The wrong steel was used. No termite treatment. No earthquake design. Not enough cement in the mix. Floors aren't level. Plaster too thin. Doorways too small. Passageways too narrow. Wires and pipes are the wrong size. Walls aren't plumb. Poor lighting. Incorrect grounding. Poor drainage. Incorrect waste treatment. No as-built drawings. And the layout makes no sense.
Before the sale of an existing home, a proper home inspection can/will uncover most problems.
If you build it yourself and can't prove that you did it right (and nearly none of the people that I've met can), you may have a house that needs to be drastically discounted to ever sell. If it can even be sold at all.rspann wrote:Some people rather not build. Me, I making sure I know what under my tiles and paint yes. There are people who build to sell and cut corners, you see it showing up years after. I saw men using 1/4" steel for stirrups, soakaway built with soft stones that melted after use. Plumbing problems ,electrical ,you name it.
lalloboy101 wrote:A proper home inspection as pointed out above will only reveal what can be seen, there is no way of telling what size piles were used, foundation depth, floor reinforcement, spacing of supports etc. Even 'As builts' can be falsified. I've seen instances where houses were mass built and the quality control was poor, water for concrete mixing was used from a ravine, honeycomb concrete was covered with plaster, piling to the wrong depth etc. Too many residential contractors out there cut cost even where critical work is being done.
rspann wrote:lalloboy101 wrote:A proper home inspection as pointed out above will only reveal what can be seen, there is no way of telling what size piles were used, foundation depth, floor reinforcement, spacing of supports etc. Even 'As builts' can be falsified. I've seen instances where houses were mass built and the quality control was poor, water for concrete mixing was used from a ravine, honeycomb concrete was covered with plaster, piling to the wrong depth etc. Too many residential contractors out there cut cost even where critical work is being done.
Unless you have xray vision.
V2NR 3.0 wrote:Well said Urban and Adnj. I know for one I do not have the time nor the patience to buy land and build. I will surely crack someone with a good 2x4.
V2NR 3.0 wrote:What does "Town and Country" approvals mean for agriculture land ? What do you guys think about this option ? I mean 2 acres is a nice spread.
sMASH wrote:I may be mistaken but that could be the Caroni vsep land.
If so, it MAY/MIGHT only be for agricultural purposes because they gave farmworkers residential lots as well.
The agri plots were only allowed a 10' x 10' structure to store tools.
Not sure if they can be given approved for building a house on it.
Just do some research with the Caroni office in the brechen castle office and with the regional corporation in couva to confirm...
lancer3 wrote:Which order do you think is best: paint first or floors first?
lancer3 wrote:Which order do you think is best: paint first or floors first?
rspann wrote:I sometime have to do 40 or 60 doors, I have a guy that ,seals ,spray paint ,install the locks and put up the doors for $100 each.
rspann wrote:]lancer3 wrote:Which order do you think is best: paint first or floors first?
I giving you some priceless information for free. When you finish plastering, prepare prime and paint before you do anything else. Ceilings, tiles, cupboards, outside soffits. it's very hard to get grout ,thinset or mortar off bare walls,even if you scrape it it will leave imprints. Scraping off from the paint is easy. Trying to paint walls after ceiling and soffits need taping or else it's a mess. What I do is to put on two coats of paint ,do the ceilings, and soffits and then the tiles . When everything is complete I put on the last coat without going up to the last quarter of an inch to the ceiling, (outside too) there is no need to tape. Paint down to the tiles and then put on the pre-painted skirting, so there is only touching up left on the skirting.
SNIPER 3000 wrote:Spann, send me aa number for a someone that dose gypsum ceiling please.
Thanks.
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