TriniTuner.com | Latest Event:
Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
X2 wrote:BANzai Rastafarai wrote:ok...soooo....why not do like the Rover Chassis and make the weight distribution a bit better for "coming offthe gas" in corners bit?....i guess to each car brand the application of the chassis design is different. I used my only FWD knowledge (Which was the rover) when entering the corner and i got suprising results....with Hoe's car, i had to blip the throttle to maintain the current direction as the back was coming around (and its so bloddy quick!!!)....with B-TorF's.....i had no time to blip, i was already on the handbrake to get the back out and it snapped like WHOA!!...
Oh boy... this one is going to boost up some egos....The ITR is a fine line of 'perfection in fwd engineering'. Every part of the car is meant to compliment another. Honda took the DC5 a little further by utilizing the unibody/tub chassis, which stiffened the ITR even more than the DC2R, which, during it's production was considered the best FWD platform ever... a title now held by the DC5. But back to my statement of the car is built to compliment itself. Go hot into a corner and (unlike most other FWD setups) the answer for the ITR is:
1) Know HOW HOT to come in
2) Understand the dynamic response of the car
Staying on the throttle can save the car. It's a combination of the suspension design and how it's reacting to the power delivery and LSD. Coming off the gas too early (in an attempt to induce oversteer) will upset the pre-load on the suspension and send the rear out... try to correct without throttle modulation and get you end up whipping the tail around (as you can see in Cleriq's vid). Even with judicious throttle, it would still be easy to lose control once you upset the suspension because the weight transfer and momentum are already setup to act like a slingshot.
Some of this can be overcome by dialing in a bit more negative camber in the rear than it comes with stock (on a DC2), but that will promote tire wear on a street car. True enthusiasts that pay attention to the very precise balance of the ITR will realize that you can easily go from perfect to crap by making an un-informed or badly calculated change.... engine, suspension, chassis, steering... You need to consider everything when you make an adjustment on an R.
honda hoe wrote:i posted this thread in the car park when a friend of mine crashed his DC5 within weeks of me doing the same wit my old teggy
good reading also
http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... +oversteer
X2 wrote:Banzai, the DC2R is also equipped with an LSD.
To mod suspension to match power... on a ITR or even a CTR, you have a great base and can take more power with little to no modification for street driving and light track time. For heavier high speed use, better shocks and quality lowering springs are great, but you need to dial in the suspension and corner weight the car if possible. Set camber, toe, alignment is important or else you waste your money on the parts... but that is true for any car ! Once you get to civics and base model integras though, you need to start adding or upgrading parts almost immediately for even frequent bouts of spirited driving... beyond shock / spring combos, you get into stiffener bars, larger sways and the like.
honda hoe wrote:me ain't know why rasta doh jus buy a dc5 an done
setta simmydimmy questions
X2 wrote:Banzai, the DC2R is also equipped with an LSD.
To mod suspension to match power... on a ITR or even a CTR, you have a great base and can take more power with little to no modification for street driving and light track time. For heavier high speed use, better shocks and quality lowering springs are great, but you need to dial in the suspension and corner weight the car if possible. Set camber, toe, alignment is important or else you waste your money on the parts... but that is true for any car ! Once you get to civics and base model integras though, you need to start adding or upgrading parts almost immediately for even frequent bouts of spirited driving... beyond shock / spring combos, you get into stiffener bars, larger sways and the like.
BANzai Rastafarai wrote:honda hoe wrote:me ain't know why rasta doh jus buy a dc5 an done
setta simmydimmy questions
honestly... from reading the forums and stuff...its seems like the DC5 is the "GTR" of 2wd cars locally..meaning its treated like an exotic and that parts for it are expensive and hard to get.
Then I saw how "Ren" sold his DC5 that he bought from Torf over a Gearbox issue and I'm like naaaaaaaaaaaah!! things that hard/rare/expensive for a DC5?
I had a K20 initially as the motor for the Rover..but the amount of "boy yuh go ketch yuh arse finding parts" comments i got i quickly got rid of it....this was in 2005 so i was not as shooled/knowledgable as I am now...
Still maintain that this is one of TWO honda's i'd buy for fun. The other is a the Accorrd R (Zims whip).
Like the Toyota's they seem like fun to tune suspensionwise....
SUPAstarr wrote:X2 wrote:Banzai, the DC2R is also equipped with an LSD.
To mod suspension to match power... on a ITR or even a CTR, you have a great base and can take more power with little to no modification for street driving and light track time. For heavier high speed use, better shocks and quality lowering springs are great, but you need to dial in the suspension and corner weight the car if possible. Set camber, toe, alignment is important or else you waste your money on the parts... but that is true for any car ! Once you get to civics and base model integras though, you need to start adding or upgrading parts almost immediately for even frequent bouts of spirited driving... beyond shock / spring combos, you get into stiffener bars, larger sways and the like.
Agreed, the first EK hatch i used was completely stock, an from my use over 2yrs i found the suspension to be inadequate for the little power the d15 has, goin down the highway the car go too light at speed, plenty body roll around corners but great, understeer was significant, an the back came around as i metioned before, almost caught me goin around that bend after sagicor around the savannah, back came out an God alone knows where grip came from. But with my own hatch with the tien setup its as if the car is now complete for the 1** hp an dynamics of the car. But i still dont kno how to harness it as yet though
honda hoe wrote:BANzai Rastafarai wrote:honda hoe wrote:me ain't know why rasta doh jus buy a dc5 an done
setta simmydimmy questions
honestly... from reading the forums and stuff...its seems like the DC5 is the "GTR" of 2wd cars locally..meaning its treated like an exotic and that parts for it are expensive and hard to get.
Then I saw how "Ren" sold his DC5 that he bought from Torf over a Gearbox issue and I'm like naaaaaaaaaaaah!! things that hard/rare/expensive for a DC5?
I had a K20 initially as the motor for the Rover..but the amount of "boy yuh go ketch yuh arse finding parts" comments i got i quickly got rid of it....this was in 2005 so i was not as shooled/knowledgable as I am now...
Still maintain that this is one of TWO honda's i'd buy for fun. The other is a the Accorrd R (Zims whip).
Like the Toyota's they seem like fun to tune suspensionwise....
<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rdLevBPNDzQ&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed>
@ 4:25...
BANzai Rastafarai wrote:SUPAstarr wrote:X2 wrote:Banzai, the DC2R is also equipped with an LSD.
To mod suspension to match power... on a ITR or even a CTR, you have a great base and can take more power with little to no modification for street driving and light track time. For heavier high speed use, better shocks and quality lowering springs are great, but you need to dial in the suspension and corner weight the car if possible. Set camber, toe, alignment is important or else you waste your money on the parts... but that is true for any car ! Once you get to civics and base model integras though, you need to start adding or upgrading parts almost immediately for even frequent bouts of spirited driving... beyond shock / spring combos, you get into stiffener bars, larger sways and the like.
Agreed, the first EK hatch i used was completely stock, an from my use over 2yrs i found the suspension to be inadequate for the little power the d15 has, goin down the highway the car go too light at speed, plenty body roll around corners but great, understeer was significant, an the back came around as i metioned before, almost caught me goin around that bend after sagicor around the savannah, back came out an God alone knows where grip came from. But with my own hatch with the tien setup its as if the car is now complete for the 1** hp an dynamics of the car. But i still dont kno how to harness it as yet though
What's your driving technique going into corners?
BANzai Rastafarai wrote:I like the EP3 its like a "aight chick" with a SLAMMING piece of thigh and ass that begs... "WE IS SELLING SEAMOSS!!"...
Its the same Ks20A right?.....what suspension subtleties are there between the Ep3 and the DC5?
Return to “Ole talk and more Ole talk”
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 54 guests
..
