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Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby sharkman121 » January 14th, 2013, 3:41 pm

^yep, thats def a good bump. Fishman was always mih inspiration.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby greenlime100 » January 16th, 2013, 2:32 pm

Guys, where can I get magnesium an calcium test kits localy? Or is it best to order them online ?

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 16th, 2013, 2:51 pm

I bought mine by Raj in Pasea. Either $175 or $200 i payed for them. Its the Salifert brand. Amazon has it for $25US ($160TT)

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 16th, 2013, 3:37 pm

Anyone have a fragtank outside cause i have a small tank about 5 gallons ans i want to put some xenia and zoas outside doh want to spend any money on it. I have it set up alreayd i just dont know where to put it cause i put it in the yard where sun is all day and the water was almost boiling :shock: so idk if to put it in the shade or something or put something over the tank to allow some light in.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 16th, 2013, 4:03 pm

A 5gal tank in the direct sun will heat up in min and kill everything. Corals and fish wont make it tru those fluctuations of temp. and if you put it in the shade, the corals may still die cause of insufficient light. You will also get alot of evaporation. Put it in the shade and put a light

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby kurpal_v2 » January 16th, 2013, 4:26 pm

Anyone seen black moors locally?

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 16th, 2013, 5:40 pm

HondaB20B wrote:A 5gal tank in the direct sun will heat up in min and kill everything. Corals and fish wont make it tru those fluctuations of temp. and if you put it in the shade, the corals may still die cause of insufficient light. You will also get alot of evaporation. Put it in the shade and put a light

lol well then i will have to buy a light. i just wanted the brightness of natural sunlight cause i heard someone put it in the sun and the corals grew fast.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 16th, 2013, 5:59 pm

Reefplanet wrote:
HondaB20B wrote:A 5gal tank in the direct sun will heat up in min and kill everything. Corals and fish wont make it tru those fluctuations of temp. and if you put it in the shade, the corals may still die cause of insufficient light. You will also get alot of evaporation. Put it in the shade and put a light

lol well then i will have to buy a light. i just wanted the brightness of natural sunlight cause i heard someone put it in the sun and the corals grew fast.


What you need to find out now what was the temp. I have tubs outside and depending on the year when the sun is directly overhead the tubs get too hot and my xenias, kenyas and zoas die. other times they survive and thats just using indirect sunlight. Then also my tubs are 40 & 60 gal and take long to heat up. Also its concrete tubs

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby link » January 16th, 2013, 9:37 pm

kurpal_v2 wrote:Anyone seen black moors locally?

natures world on sutton st. sfdo & petshop boyz on mucurapo st.
not much so-so specimens
Charran's in Cunupia got in new shpmnt...many sold...chk them also...(they got aligator gars !!)
rgds

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 17th, 2013, 12:07 am


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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 17th, 2013, 9:27 am

Saltwater users, valuable info to keep handy.

Salinity: 1.021 to 1.025 g/ml fish only, 1.023 to 1.026 g/ml corals
Salinity refers to the concentration of ionic particles in saltwater. The common compounds that are dissolved in sea water include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium and magnesium carbonate, calcium and magnesium chloride.

Measurement: Salinity can measured with electrical conductivity or density. Salinometers, which measure electrical conductivity, show that normal reef seawater is approximately 35% salt particles. A hydrometer or which is much more economical, measures reef water density at 1.024 g/cm3. Hydrometers are glass tubes that contain a weight and a calibrated scale. When they are floated in water, their float level on the calibrated scale can be read to find the saltwater density. Because temperature affects the calibration of a hydrometer, a specific hydrometer may be calibrated for only a specific temperature. A refractometer measures the density of water by passing light through a prism. Light refraction is affected by both saltwater solutes and temperature. Refractometers cancel out the effect of temperature and produce precise and accurate aquarium salinity readings.


Nitrate: Fish: < 50 mg/L, Corals: 0 to 10 mg/L
Nitrate (NO3-) is produced in the marine aquarium by the oxidation of nitrite (NO2-). Nitrate is a major marine nutrient and its depletion limits the growth of all marine algae. Natural seawater nitrate levels are generally very low, just less than 0.5 mg/L. At higher levels than 20 mg/L it may become toxic to invertebrates. Fish are more tolerant of nitrate, but in a fish-only system the nitrate levels should be kept under 50 mg/L.

Reducing Aqueous Nitrate:
Nitrates can be reduced by utilizing algae which absorb it to build their cellular proteins. Refugium filtration systems take advantage of this.
A moderately deep gravel bed (2" to 3" of aragonite 2 to 4 mm particle diameter) facilitates the growth of anaerobic Pseudomonas bacteria that denitrify nitrate to nitrogen gas and ammonia.
Frequent water changes using purified water will also help to keep nitrates in check.


Alkalinity: 8 to 14 dKH, Ideal = 10 dKH
Alkalinity measures the ability of a solution to resist pH change. Buffers, compounds that react with hydrogen ions (H+) or hydroxide ions (OH-) in solution, are responsible for alkalinity. The primary marine buffers are carbonate (CO32-), bicarbonate (HCO3-), borate (B(OH)4-), hydroxide (OH-), silicate (SiO3-2-), and phosphate (PO43-). The most important is bicarbonate.

Units: Alkalinity can be measured in mg per liter (mg/L), milliequivalents per liter (meq/L), and degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH). Around 10 dKH = 36 meq/L = 179 mg/L. (One meq = the amount of a substance that will supply/react with 0.001 mole of hydrogen ions (H+) ions in solution.) Most test kits monitor alkalinity in dKH.

General vs. Carbonate Hardness: General hardness (GH) is defined as the sum of the divalent cations in a solution. This includes all ions that have a +2 charge: calcium, magnesium, strontium, and trace metals. Because calcium and magnesium are in such abundance in marine systems, the general hardness (GH) is largely due to them. "Carbonate" hardness (KH) is not only due to carbonate, but also to any anion that affects pH. These anions include carbonate, hydroxide, phosphate, silicate, and borate. Most seawater alkalinity is due to carbonate (CO32-(aq)) and bicarbonate (HCO3-(aq)) ions. Carbonate (GH) hardness is considered "temporary" because the carbonates are depleted rapidly by acids.

Excess Alkalinity: It is important not to raise the alkalinity of a marine aquarium beyond 16 dKH. Excess alkalinity will cause calcium to precipitate from the system and crystallize on glass, rock, pump housings, etc.


Phosphate: 0 to 0.3 mg/L
Phosphate (PO43-) is utilized by all cells as an energy carrier between organelles and an information carrier between cells. Phosphate is removed from solution by all photosynthetic algae as they photosynthesize and produce new cells. Free phosphate (PO43-(aq)) is called 'inorganic', while phosphate bound to biochemicals (such as adenosine triphosphate or ATP) is called 'organic'. Phosphate is released into marine aquarium water by the decomposition of organic matter, which simultaneously consumes oxygen.

Sources: Phosphates find their way into aquarium systems in several ways:

Overfeeding: Too much uneaten food in the aquarium is likely the most significant source of phosphate in the water. Decomposition rapidly releases the organic phosphate as inorganic phosphate.

Tap Water: Tap water has phosphates that are often sourced from upstream livestock operations that should never be added to a marine aquarium.

Decomposition: Dead organisms, algae or animals, release phosphates into the aquarium water as they are decomposed.

Low-Grade Activated Carbon: Phosphoric acid used to etch the pores of activated carbon can end up in the marine aquarium. High-grade activated carbon is more expensive - the acids are removed.

Control: While phosphates in sea water are generally around 0.07 mg/L, it is recommended that marine aquarium systems keep the phosphate below 0.05 mg/L. Phosphates can be controlled in an aquarium by either biological or chemical means. Refugiums with high growths of algae and good water flow offer a biological method of phosphate control. Periodic harvesting of the algae continually removes phosphate from the aquarium system. There are also resins and iron reactor systems that can remove phosphate from aquariums systems artificially. These systems generally involve pump water diversion through a tube of resin/powdered iron(III)oxide which reacts with free phosphate. The "cleansed" water is then returned to the aquarium system.

Phosphate Absorption: Phosphates are absorbed by living cells as they multiply to cover rocks and gravel. Their presence indicates a possible phosphate issue. If the phosphate level is initially reduced by water changes and chemical filtration, the bacterial and algal populations that once depended on the excess phosphate will begin to die. As they decompose and disintegrate, they release phosphate and reduce the oxygen levels in the pores of the rock where they grew. This phosphate rebound may produce higher phosphate levels than were initially present before action was taken. Several cycles of water changes and aggressive filtration may be necessary to "permanently" reduce the phosphate to acceptable levels.

Phosphate Adsorption: Phosphates are also absorbed by rock and substrate in an aquarium, and then leached out after its aqueous levels are reduced. Calcium carbonate has a high affinity for phosphate ions. The more porous the rock/substrate, the more phosphate that can be adsorbed. If phosphates are removed from the aquarium water, the phosphates adsorbed onto rock/substrate will leach into the water, leading to a phosphate rebound. Several cycles of phosphate reduction may be needed to "permanently" bring the phosphate to a reduced level.

Adjustment: Phosphates are continually added to an aquarium through feeding. They can be removed by 1) use of calcium hydroxide to precipitate the phosphate from the water, 2) use of a protein skimmer to remove uneaten food and organic material from an aquarium.


Ammonia: All marine organisms: 0 mg/L
Ammonia (NH3) is particularly toxic to living things. In marine systems, most of the ammonia (NH3) reacts with water and becomes an ion, the ammonium ion (NH4+) in an equilibrium reaction: NH3 + H2O <---> NH4+ + OH-. The significance of this is that ammonia is far more toxic than ammonium ions. Higher temperatures and pH favor the formation of ammonia, so these conditions can make an existing ammonia/ammonium ion situation worse. Ammonia concentrations as little as 0.02 mg/L cause stress to fish, while ammonium is tolerated at much higher levels. Ammonia levels must be kept as close to 0.0 mg/L as possible.

Sources of Ammonia: The major source of ammonia (or ammonium) in a marine aquarium is food. High nitrogen foods such as Mysis or brine shrimp can increase ammonia levels beyond the capacity of aquarium Nitrosomonas bacteria to oxidize it. Other sources of ammonia include nitrogen fixation - the reaction of nitrogen gas with hydrogen (ions) by Azotobacter and Clostridium bacteria. A small amount is made by denitrification of nitrate back to nitrogen gas by Pseudomonas.

Reducing Aqueous Ammonia:
Ammonia can be reduced by utilizing live rock and gravel (aragonite) beds to foster the growth of bacteria such as Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter which will convert it to nitrite and nitrate. Algae can then absorb the nitrate, effectively removing the nitrogen from the aqueous aquarium system. Refugium filtration systems take advantage of this.
Frequent water changes using purified water will also help to keep nitrates in check.



Nitrite: All marine organisms: 0 mg/L
Nitrite (NO2-) is produced in the marine aquarium by the oxidation of ammonia (NH3-). Nitrate is nearly as toxic as ammonia. Its levels must be kept as close to 0.0 mg/L as possible.

Reducing Aqueous Nitrate:
Nitrites can be reduced by utilizing rock and gravel beds to foster the growth of Nitrobacter bacteria which convert it to nitrate. Ay algae in the system can then absorb the nitrate and remove the nitrogen from the system. Refugium filtration systems take advantage of this.
A moderately deep gravel bed (2" to 3" of aragonite 2 to 4 mm particle diameter) facilitates the growth of anaerobic Pseudomonas bacteria that denitrify nitrate to nitrogen gas and ammonia.
Frequent water changes using purified water will also help to keep nitrites in check.


Calcium: 380-500 mg/L
Calcium carbonate (CaCO3) is produced in the marine aquarium by the dissolution of calcium carbonate from its aragonite crystalline form. The dissolution equation is: CaCO3(s) <---> Ca2+aq + CO32-aq. The carbonate ion (CO32-) can then accept protons to act as a buffer in the marine system according to the following equation: H+aq + CO32-aq <---> H+aq + HCO3-aq. This is an important reaction - it helps to prevent pH drop from the acids produced by aquarium biological activity. Freshwater systems do not have this buffering ability that marine systems have. Also, carbon dioxide is a "player" in this "calcium reaction system", because it can react with water to form carbonic acid, which can then dissociate to form bicarbonate ions and protons according to the following equation: CO2(g) + H2O(l) <---> H2CO3 <---> H+aq + HCO3-aq. As a result of this, carbon dioxide produced by respiration and decomposition, does cause pH to fall.

Calcium Usage: Calcium carbonate (CaCO3) is a major component of the skeletons of most of the animals in marine systems, from sponges to fish. Reef systems do best at calcium concentrations between 410 and 450 mg/L. Animals cannot grow without calcium uptake from the sea water. The constant uptake of calcium from marine aquarium water by animals causes a constant and gradual decline in the calcium concentration.

Maintaining Aqueous Calcium:
Calcium Reactors: Equipment which consists of calcium-laden materials through which water is passed before adding it to a marine aquarium provides a means of raising the calcium levels:
Aragonite-based systems: Either carbon dioxide-injected water or sulfur-laden water is passed through a reaction chamber of aragonite. The acidity of the carbon dioxide/sulfur-laden water dissolves the aragonite and produces a saturated solution of calcium (CaCO3(aq)). The reactor then passes the solution into the aquarium. This system requires a pH controller to prevent excess carbon dioxide influx, pH drop, and excess algae growth. Cost: over $500.

Nilsen Reactors: Water is passed through a chamber of calcium hydroxide, Ca(OH)2, also called kalkwasser and then passed into the marine aquarium. This method produces high levels of dissolved calcium hydroxide. Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2(aq)) raises aquarium pH and once again is best used with a pH controller. Cost: over $250.
Aragonite Sand: Aragonite (mostly CaCO3) can be used as the substrate of the saltwater aquarium. Its crystalline structure allows it dissociate into aquarium water to help offset the loss of calcium carbonate by animal uptake. It will only help offset - it cannot fully replace - the loss of all calcium from the water of a well-stocked marine aquarium.

Additives:
Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide, Ca(OH)2): Has the highest percentage of calcium by weight, but is difficult to dissolve in water and raises pH. It also tends to contain silicates as impurities, which foster the growth of algae. One positive note: calcium hydroxide removes excess phosphate from aquarium systems.

Calcium Chloride: Is simple to prepare and add to an aquarium without pH deflection. It also quickly produces the desired result of calcium increase. It is so soluble in water, that excess addition is possible. This can cause alkalinity drop which results in a loss of pH buffering, and decline in aquarium pH. Some aquarists caution that excess use of calcium chloride can lead to chloride imbalance - but with the concentration of chloride normally at 19.5 g/L, it would be difficult to create a problem with milligram dosages.


Calcium Carbonate: Powdered calcium carbonate is difficult to dissolve in water. Once a solution is saturated, it will hold no more. It can be dissolved more easily in a Nilsen reactor, without the pH issues of the reactor.


Magnesium: 1200 to 1400 mg/L
Magnesium (Mg2+) is present in seawater at normal amounts of almost 1290 mg/L, much higher concentrations than calcium. One of its primary functions in the marine system is to prevent calcium from binding to carbonate and precipitating out of solution. This is achieved by the bonding of magnesium (Mg2+) ions with carbonate (CO32-) ions so the carbonate ions cannot bind to calcium (Ca2+) ions. This allows the calcium ions to be used by living things in the aquarium. The magnesium to carbonate bond is temporary and reversible, allowing the carbonate to still function as a buffer. The equation for the magnesium-carbonate equilibrium is: Mg2+(aq) + CO32-(aq) <---> MgCO3(s). About 2/3 of the carbonate ions in seawater are bound to magnesium and only 7% are bound to calcium. The reason for this is that the most common divalent ions in the aquarium are magnesium. At around 1290 mg/L - Mg2+ is over 3X more common than Ca2+ Magnesium is often inadequate in synthetic sea salt and supplementation may be needed to keep it high. Ample magnesium helps to maintain both KH and calcium levels. Magnesium is also used by algae to make chlorophyll, and it is a cofactor for a number of enzymes in photosynthetic cells, from free algae to zooxanthellae.


pH: 8 to 8.3
pH is a scale that measures the acidity or basicity of a water solution. Hydrogen ions (H+) are responsible for the properties of acids, and hydroxide ions (OH-) are responsible for the properties of bases. There are always H+ and OH- ions in a water solution because of the dissociation of water molecules according to the equilibrium equation: H2O(l) <---> H+(aq) and OH-(aq). Even "pure" water is not pure - it always contains these ions. The pH scale normally ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Solutions that are acidic have more H+ than OH- ions and their pH is less than 7. Basic solutions have more OH- ions than H+ ions - their pH > 7. Neutral solutions are neither basic nor acidic - they have equal concentrations of H+(aq) and OH-(aq).

Buffers: Marine systems have natural buffers which resist pH change. Buffers are aqueous compounds that cause a solution to resist pH change. The primary buffer in marine systems is the HCO3- ion. As acids enter the marine aquarium from cellular respiration the HCO3- ions react to form H2CO3 according to the following equation: H+(aq) + HCO3-(aq) <---> H2CO3(aq). Unlike freshwater systems that can experience much greater pH changes in short periods of time, marine systems are inherently pH stable.

pH Issues: Aquatic aquarium systems normally experience a decline in pH over time due to the release of acids via decomposition increases the H+ in solution. Carbon dioxide produced by respiration of everything from bacteria to fish also lowers pH due to its interaction with water to form carbonic acid (H2CO3).

pH Adjustment: There are various supplements that can be used to raise pH, such as sodium carbonate and calcium hydroxide. The most important aspect of altering pH is to perform it SLOWLY. Every pH unit of adjustment alters the H+ and OH- ion concentrations by a factor of 10. Marine animals have unusually high INTOLERANCE of pH change. All adjustments should be made by: 1) premixing solutions outside of the aquarium, 2) slow addition of the premixed solution to the marine aquarium.


Strontium: Natural seawater concentration: 8 mg/L
Strontium (Sr2+) is a normal ion present in seawater with unclear function in living systems. It is similar to calcium in chemistry and is incorporated into skeletons wherever calcium is found. The formula of the skeletal salt of strontium carbonate is SrCO3. Since strontium carbonate is found in aragonite and calcium carbonate deposits, it is believed to have a biological function there. It is believed to be important to prevent the peeling of coral tissue away from the underlying skeleton. Although some hobbyists view strontium as a toxin, it is unlikely the agent of negative effects in a marine aquarium. Some aquarists maintain the strontium concentration in their aquaria at 10 to 15 mg/L with no apparent ill effects.

Additives: Most strontium additives are strontium chloride, which is very soluble in seawater and easy to add. Very small quantities are needed to raise the strontium to acceptable levels. It is part of the general hardness of seawater and helps to maintain alkalinity in the home aquarium. Determining strontium concentration is not possible with home test kits, so it's aquarium levels must be approximated.


Iodine: Total natural seawater concentration: 0.06 mg/L
Iodine/Iodate (I-, IO3-) are known to be important to marine organisms but it is not known exactly why. Iodine in seawater is generally ionic and in one of two forms: I-(aq) or IO3-(aq) ions. The sum of the two ion concentrations in natural seawater is about 0.06 mg/L. Algae and animals remove it from aquarium water and it must be supplemented to maintain a measurable level. Fish must have iodine from food or water to maintain internal thyroxine levels. Crustaceans must have it to produce the proper hormones that control molting. Algae must have it to activate specific enzymes. It is theoretical that hermatypic corals protect themselves from excess zooxanthellate oxygen by "soaking" the oxygen with iodide ions: 2 I-(aq) + 3 O2(aq) --> 2 IO3-(aq). Oxygen is destructive to all organic molecules - hence the value of "antioxidants" in the diet of all animals, including humans.

Supplements: Lugol's solution, Iodine-Potassium-Iodide, can be used to increase the iodine in an aquarium system. Dosing an aquarium is easy. The aquarist may want to invest in an iodine removal chemical. There are some preps made from ascorbic acid, and others that use sulfur-based compounds. An accidental overdose of iodine in the aquarium is fatal to most marine life, but it can be instantly removed with a few milliliters of an appropriate halogen-removal solution.


Iron: trace: 5.5 x 10-5 mg/L to 0.3 mg/L
Iron (Fe3+) is used by cells as a cofactor for enzyme function. It is a key component of special proteins called cytochromes that move electrons within cell membranes. Iron ions are directly absorbed by algae cells from the sea water. Animals obtain iron through their foods, so aqueous iron is not helpful to them. Absence of aqueous iron will prevent the proliferation of algae and zooxanthellate animals. It's natural seawater concentration is about 5.5 x 10-5 mg/L. Raising its concentration to 0.2 mg/L is not harmful but will encourage zooxanthellate photosynthesis. Iron supplementation may aid in the appearance of zooxanthellate corals and mollusks. If an algal bloom occurs, there must also be excess phosphate/nitrate in the system since they are also necessary for the growth of algae.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 17th, 2013, 10:06 am

Temperature 72°F to 80°F
Salinity 1.021 to 1.025 g/ml fish only, 1.023 to 1.026 g/ml corals
Nitrate Fish: < 50 mg/L, Corals: 0 to 10 mg/L
KH (Total Alkalinity) 8 to 14 dKH, Ideal = 10 dKH
Phosphate 0 to 0.03 mg/L
Ammonia 0 mg/L
Nitrite 0 mg/L
Calcium 380-500 mg/L
Magnesium 1200-1400 mg/L
pH 8 to 8.3


Water Replacement: Because of the gradual and significant evaporative water loss from an aquariums system, water must be added to maintain salinity at 1.024 g/ml. The water that is added should be filtered and not poured directly from any tap source. Municipal water treatment generally involves the addition of chlorine (Cl2(g)) and chloramine (NH2Cl(aq)) to destroy viruses and kill microbes. Tap water chlorine levels are usually at least 3 mg/L and chloramine levels are at least 1.0 mg/L. Chlorine levels greater than 0.002 mg/L are deleterious to marine life. In addition, tap water contains dissolved solids, dissolved minerals (including those from house plumbing tubing), phosphates, and other impurities. It is important that all of these be removed before adding tap water to a marine system. Also - tap water from the hot water plumbing should NEVER be purified for addition to a marine aquarium system. It has more dissolved metals than the cold water system, which will shorten the life of the purification system.

Reverse Osmosis: This purification system uses high water pressure to push water through a barrier that other solutes cannot pass. The cellulose acetate or polyamide polymer membranes of these systems have very small pore sizes (1.5 nanometers) that will reject dissolved substances but will allow water to pass. These systems produce water with substance removal rates of 90% to 99.5%. The only drawback of this system is the waste of water - the water that does not pass through the membrane containing concentrated solutes is discarded. Most reverse osmosis systems use pre-filters to remove dissolved solids and prolong the life of the purification membrane. They tend to be cheaper to operate and require less maintenance than other purification systems.

Deionization: This purification system uses resin beads impregnated with very small pores (2 to 5 nm). To make the beads deionize, they are exposed to either strong acids or strong bases to load them with hydrogen or hydroxide ions. The beads are loaded into a canister through which tap water is allowed to flow. As cations (positive ions) and anions (negative ions) of tap water flow between the beads, they exchange ions with them. The principal ions in tap water - calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, lead, nitrate, bicarbonate, sulfate, chloride, and iodide - end up stuck on the bead surface. As the beads becomes saturated with tap water impurities, their pH and color change, indicating they should be recharged or replaced. Tap water passed through a deionization system can be up to 99.5% free of dissolved ions. Pre-filters may be needed to prolong the life of the resin beads. Carbon reactors may be needed to remove organic impurities.

Final Notes:

Tap water should not be used to replace evaporated salt water in an aquarium.

The most important aspect of aquarium salinity is stability. As water evaporates from an aquarium, salinity rises. Removal of saltwater, salt spray, and protein skimmers lower salinity. Barring leakage, evaporation exceeds salt spray in most systems and salinity gradually falls over time. Any and all adjustments must be made GRADUALLY. Saltwater fish can tolerate salinity that it not optimal, but what is often fatal is rapid salinity change. The addition of water or salt to an aquarium system should be done gradually to avoid wide fluctuations in salinity.


The Nitrogen Cycle: Nitrogen Gas (N2(g)), Ammonia (NH3), Nitrite (NO2(aq)), Nitrate (NO3(aq), Protein

The Nitrogen Cycle describes the movement of nitrogen, a nonmetal element, through an ecosystem. Aquariums have their own unique issues with respect to this cycle. Nitrogen gas, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and proteins are all part of the story. Ultimately, all organisms must get nitrogen from some source to build their proteins, ann activity central to life on earth. Bacteria and blue-green bacteria play key roles at critical points in the cycle.

Nitrogen gas (N2): Earth's nitrogen reservoir is the nitrogen gas in air, at almost 80% by volume. The only marine organisms that can use nitrogen gas in a chemical reaction are specific types of bacteria. These species of bacteria can convert nitrogen gas to ammonia, a process called nitrogen fixation. Two bacteria that have been studied are the planktonic Azotobacter and the benthic Clostridium. Thus, the aqueous nitrogen gas of seawater is inert but becomes active when it is converted to ammonia (highly poisonous) by bacteria.

Ammonia (NH3): Ammonia produced by nitrogen fixation in an aquarium is usually of negligible quantity compared to that produced by the metabolism of protein by animals and bacteria. Aqueous ammonia gas (NH3 (aq)) is the most toxic and dangerous of all the nitrogen cycle compounds. Most of the ammonia reacts with water to form ammonium ions (NH4 (aq)), rendering it less toxic. Some species of aerobic bacteria, Nitrosomonas, and Nitrosococcus (purple sulfur bacteria) found in marine sediment, are chemoautotrophic and consume ammonia (NH3/NH4+). Their oxidation of ammonia produces nitrite, NO2-. This process is the first step of nitrification, called nitrosification. Ammonia and nitrite levels should be or nearly be 0 in the seawater of an aquarium.

Nitrite (NO2-): Nitrite is metabolized by other nitrifying genera of bacteria: Nitrobacter (alpha proteobacteria), Nitrospina (delta proteobacteria), and Nitrococcus (gamma proteobacteria/purple sulfur bacteria). These aerobic bacteria oxidize the nitrite to nitrate. Nitrates are far less toxic than ammonia or nitrites. The conversion of nitrite (NO2-) to nitrate (NO3-) is the 2nd step of nitrification. While nitrite levels should be 0, nitrate levels in aquarium seawater can safely range from 0 to 10 mg/L for corals, up to 50 mg/L for fish.

Nitrates: (NO3-): The removal of nitrates from sea water is accomplished via uptake by algae or by anaerobic bacterial reduction of the nitrate to nitrogen gas. Under anaerobic conditions, bacteria such as Pseudomonas, Micrococcus, and Paracoccus convert nitrates to nitrogen gas, in a process called denitrification. These bacteria are facultative anaerobes, and can grow in the sand, where water flow is minimal and oxygen levels are low. They participate in the removal of nitrogen from the aquarium system, because the gases they produce from nitrate reduction escape to the atmosphere. Note: one of the products of denitrification is ammonia, which is then consumed by nitrifying bacteria. Also, denitrification can only occur under anaerobic conditions. Nitrates are also used by marine algae, both microscopic and macroscopic, to produce protein. Phytoplankton, coralline algae, Caulerpa, Ulva are only a few of the organisms that rely on nitrates for their source of nitrogen. The amount of nitrate available to these organisms directly determines their growth potential. Algae can be used to biologically control the nitrate levels in a marine aquarium.

Protein: Proteins make up the structural material that binds bodies together. Enzymes, the catalysts of chemical reactions, are also proteins. Excess protein produced by animals is metabolized to carbohydrate and ammonia is released as a waste product.

Inputs to the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle: Animals digest food protein to make their own protein. They metabolize excess protein to produce other biochemicals, and release the waste product ammonia to the water around them. Foods high in protein, such as frozen Mysis or brine shrimp can add aquarium bioload. Decomposition of excess food by such bacteria as Bacillus adds ammonia to aquarium water. High levels of nitrosifying bacteria are needed to process the excess ammonia.

New Aquariums: If key species of the nitrogen cycle are absent from an aquarium, a chemical bottleneck will occur. Their component builds up in the water, possibly to toxic proportions. For example, if Nitrosomonas and Nitrosococcus are absent, ammonia will build up to toxic levels, but there would be little or no nitrate or nitrite in the aquarium system. Normally, a period of several weeks is required after initial setup before animals are introduced. This allows an aquarium system to grow the bacteria/algae necessary to complete the entire nitrogen cycle. Live rock and sand greatly accelerates the acclimation process. Once all bacterial "players" in the nitrogen cycle are present, nitrogen should cycle through the aquarium system and end up in the algae. Harvesting algae from the aquarium and consumption of algae by fish moves the nitrogen through the food chain.

Protein Skimmers: Protein skimmers benefit an aquarium by removing dissolved organic substances from water, including proteins. This prevents the proteins from being metabolized to carbohydrate and ammonia by bacteria, which could toxify an aquarium.

Final Notes:

All new marine aquarium systems must be allowed to "cycle" for at least 2 weeks and possibly "seeded" with live rock and live sand to accelerate the growth of nitrogen cycling bacteria. During this time there should be no animals in the aquarium. After two weeks, only a few animals at a time should be added with days between additions. This will allow the aquarium populations of nitrogen cycling species to grow to the necessary levels required to keep nitrogen compounds at minimal levels.

Refugium biological filtration systems with live rock and gravel beds increase the populations of nitrogen cycling bacteria and will likely increase the carrying capacity of any marine system. The more rock and gravel surface present, the greater the habitat for nitrogen cycling bacteria to grow. Denitrification will require anaerobic conditions, which a deep gravel bed in a refugium provides.

Quality test kits should be used weekly to determine the status of a marine system nitrogen cycle, including ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

One of the simplest means of remediating unacceptable ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate levels is regular water changes with purified (not tap) water.

In summary:

Aerobic processes add nitrates to the system (nitrification).
Anaerobic processes (denitrification) and aerobic algae (nitrate uptake) remove nitrates from the system.
Filters and media must balance aerobic and anaerobic+uptake processes to properly process nitrogen in a marine system. There must be aerobic and anaerobic regions in an aquarium for these processes to occur. Live rock and sand is currently believed to be the best system for both of these to occur.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 17th, 2013, 10:26 am

That was very helpful thanks. I guess i need some algae a deeper sandbed and more rodi waterchanges cause the nitrates are still at 50.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 17th, 2013, 11:09 am

Its not advisable to put a deeper sandbed in your tank thats already cycled. Your tank is already small and your parameters will change drastically

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 17th, 2013, 5:50 pm

So what to do put it in the sump or something? cause the sandbed in my main tank is under an 1inch or maybe just an inch

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 17th, 2013, 8:17 pm

I realy cant tell you what to do. I'm just giving an opinion. Better you leave it as is cause if you put an additional 1-2" of sand ontop the existing sand, you may get another mini cycle and have to go tru the diatom issue once again. your tank already running a few mths with no big issues. Not only that, putting that new sand ontop the old sand which also has your algae outbreak, will kill the algae but then it will be rotting under your sandbed which may raise your Nitrates and who knows what else. that just my 2cents worth.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby greenlime100 » January 17th, 2013, 8:55 pm

Agreed,
Recently I added some more live rock as well as change my lights from T5 to LED and as a result got a mini cycle and now battling brown algae..... not very pleasing to come home to a brown tank with struggling corals

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 17th, 2013, 9:55 pm

greenlime100 wrote:Agreed,
Recently I added some more live rock as well as change my lights from T5 to LED and as a result got a mini cycle and now battling brown algae..... not very pleasing to come home to a brown tank with struggling corals



thats correct............... That why you try to add all your rocks one time or if you do have to add, add in very small amounts over a few days. That like adding new live rock, The die off from living stuff and bacteria raises your ammonia and nitrates.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 18th, 2013, 2:04 pm

Any fellas with reef tanks have any mushrooms they have to trade?
I have small GSP frags and small kenya tree's. PM me

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 18th, 2013, 3:37 pm

I dont have mushrooms but i want!!! please please pleeeease!!!

I could put the sand in my sump or dat will make a mini cycle to?

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 18th, 2013, 4:32 pm

Reefplanet wrote:I could put the sand in my sump or dat will make a mini cycle to?


do it at your own risk...................... again, i cant make you do anything.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 18th, 2013, 6:22 pm

yeahhh i wouldnt do it.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 18th, 2013, 6:54 pm

Reefplanet wrote:yeahhh i wouldnt do it.


Go on reefcentral and find out what to do.
Last edited by HondaB20B on January 18th, 2013, 7:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby link » January 18th, 2013, 7:30 pm

HondaB20B wrote:Saltwater users, valuable info to keep handy.

Salinity: 1.021 to 1.025 g/ml fish only, 1.023 to 1.026 g/ml corals
Salinity refers to the concentration of ionic particles in saltwater. The common compounds that are dissolved in sea water include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium and magnesium carbonate, calcium and magnesium chloride.
.........
......... is not harmful but will encourage zooxanthellate photosynthesis. Iron supplementation may aid in the appearance of zooxanthellate corals and mollusks. If an algal bloom occurs, there must also be excess phosphate/nitrate in the system since they are also necessary for the growth of algae.

I really enjoyed the read....noice info...
reminded me of the ole days of A'level zoology.....
:idea: :)

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby greenlime100 » January 18th, 2013, 7:34 pm

Yupp,
Defiantly somthings to remember and note...

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby netsket » January 18th, 2013, 7:48 pm

HondaB20B wrote:Any fellas with reef tanks have any mushrooms they have to trade?
I have small GSP frags and small kenya tree's. PM me


keep one kenya tree for me eh bro, i taking it once i get the skimmer

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 18th, 2013, 7:55 pm

netsket wrote:
HondaB20B wrote:Any fellas with reef tanks have any mushrooms they have to trade?
I have small GSP frags and small kenya tree's. PM me


keep one kenya tree for me eh bro, i taking it once i get the skimmer



It have, most of them are 4-5" tall and will start to drop shoots like crazy. Some are 1-3".

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Reefplanet » January 18th, 2013, 8:34 pm

Should i get the kenya tree or GSP they both sound interesting i know the kenya tree does take over the tank and float around sometimes. PM me how much it is i might take one each
Last edited by Reefplanet on January 18th, 2013, 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby netsket » January 18th, 2013, 8:51 pm

HondaB20B wrote:
netsket wrote:
HondaB20B wrote:Any fellas with reef tanks have any mushrooms they have to trade?
I have small GSP frags and small kenya tree's. PM me


keep one kenya tree for me eh bro, i taking it once i get the skimmer



It have, most of them are 4-5" tall and will start to drop shoots like crazy. Some are 1-3".


i prefer the 1-3" kenya

might even take a gsp if any remain (dont keep any for me, i need to see if i like it) cause as i told u i need to add some colour to the tank

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » January 18th, 2013, 9:07 pm

yeah but GSP only comes in one color............ green

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