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pugboy wrote:the pentax pumps are weaker pressure wise than a goulds, they work fine but will burn when run dry
just make sure and have dry tank protection
the impeller has narrow passages which can get clogged over time though but can be serviced.
alfa wrote:pugboy wrote:the pentax pumps are weaker pressure wise than a goulds, they work fine but will burn when run dry
just make sure and have dry tank protection
the impeller has narrow passages which can get clogged over time though but can be serviced.
The mechanical shaft seal is what burns when run dry. I put a half filled water bottle inside the tank with a string and lead weight on the outside. When the tank is filled the weight hangs low and vice versa. No need to be unaware of an empty tank
pugboy wrote:you have to watch that then physically switch off pumpalfa wrote:pugboy wrote:the pentax pumps are weaker pressure wise than a goulds, they work fine but will burn when run dry
just make sure and have dry tank protection
the impeller has narrow passages which can get clogged over time though but can be serviced.
The mechanical shaft seal is what burns when run dry. I put a half filled water bottle inside the tank with a string and lead weight on the outside. When the tank is filled the weight hangs low and vice versa. No need to be unaware of an empty tank
VexXx Dogg wrote:The float switch is under 100, can be bought at most hardwares. .
pugboy wrote:yeah rotoplastics makes a good one
would prob need to buy some rhino wire to extend itVexXx Dogg wrote:The float switch is under 100, can be bought at most hardwares. .
*KRONIK* wrote:Do we get those pre-mixed cement which you just add water to locally?
Looking for a quick solution to cast some fence posts (2" pipe)
*KRONIK* wrote:Do we get those pre-mixed cement which you just add water to locally?
Looking for a quick solution to cast some fence posts (2" pipe)
Very interestingChimera wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Do we get those pre-mixed cement which you just add water to locally?
Looking for a quick solution to cast some fence posts (2" pipe)
https://harricrete.com/product/reinforced-concrete/
Niceadnj wrote:
My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Jerry84 wrote:My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Any other options?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
And these screws would be able to go into flat steel or rhs comfortably?matix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Any other options?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
These are the screws used for concrete board. You’ll have to counter sink the board a bit.
Jerry84 wrote:And these screws would be able to go into flat steel or rhs comfortably?matix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Any other options?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
These are the screws used for concrete board. You’ll have to counter sink the board a bit.
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
1/2" thick concrete board. Flat is 1" wide, 1/8 thick. Rhs is 1x1 rhsmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:And these screws would be able to go into flat steel or rhs comfortably?matix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Any other options?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
These are the screws used for concrete board. You’ll have to counter sink the board a bit.
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
Depends on the thickness of the RHS and flats, yes. You may need to use cutting countersunk screws for your application or pre-drill the materials. What’s the thickness of the concrete board?
Jerry84 wrote:1/2" thick concrete board. Flat is 1" wide, 1/8 thick. Rhs is 1x1 rhsmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:And these screws would be able to go into flat steel or rhs comfortably?matix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Any other options?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
These are the screws used for concrete board. You’ll have to counter sink the board a bit.
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
Depends on the thickness of the RHS and flats, yes. You may need to use cutting countersunk screws for your application or pre-drill the materials. What’s the thickness of the concrete board?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
Thanksmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:1/2" thick concrete board. Flat is 1" wide, 1/8 thick. Rhs is 1x1 rhsmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:And these screws would be able to go into flat steel or rhs comfortably?matix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My issue with the perlin screws is the head of rhe screw that will be sticking out a bit.NR8 wrote:Purlin screws
Any other options?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
These are the screws used for concrete board. You’ll have to counter sink the board a bit.
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
Depends on the thickness of the RHS and flats, yes. You may need to use cutting countersunk screws for your application or pre-drill the materials. What’s the thickness of the concrete board?
Sent from my SM-A705MN using TriniTuner mobile app
Try to get these,
If you want good quality fasteners, you’ll get them at Agostini / Hilti store. Any hardware you’ll get the cheaper ones.
pugboy wrote:aka tek point countersunk screws
seen many electrical work where fellas run them into ibeams, however when i tried i fail
pugboy wrote:aka tek point countersunk screws
seen many electrical work where fellas run them into ibeams, however when i tried i fail
dtopshottas wrote:Quick question
Need some information on rolling gates. I need to install a wheel for the track. I see some gates with the wheel box welded into the frame, others with the frame cut and the wheel is inside of it (with and without a flat steel welded to support it) or just weld the wheel under frame in a wheel box. Any pros and cons for each method?
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