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pugboy wrote:that is the female of a smart head?
maj. tom wrote:I went to AP Scott at the Atrium in San Juan. They were the dealers for Twyford.
Geberit (UK) bought Twyford I was told. In fact it's a company called the Sanitec Group and since 2016. The sanitaryware manufacturer now plans to combine its three brands – Geberit, Twyford Bathrooms and Keramag Design – in both the contract and retail markets.
That's how you're seeing China Twyford everywhere and they're not the same as the old school Twyford. Sanitech doesn't seem to really care about that particular brand anymore and they're pushing Geberit. It was high quality and expensive stuff.
So be aware that the old time high quality Twyford will never exist again. It's just like the how some British car brands sell out manufacturing to India and is rubbish now, but still retaining the badge to fool customers. The Chinese Twyford one is thin and cheap. If you lift the tank inside them are not even glazed and thin, and porous brown indicating that it was never dipped in the glaze. Richford is another similar Chinese brand with similar manufacturing.
The USA Briggs and UK Armitage Shanks and old Twyford were not like this and are fully glazed inside the tank as well.
Empress G wrote:Thanks. I was looking for a beam to hold up a roof and the sawmill recommended this one but I never hear of it before. Obviously your stakes are a lot smallerbut at 6"x6" would you consider that to be solid? Like did you have any splitting or anything like that?
pugboy wrote:i used sticks outdoors for growing tomato and they actually held up quite well, i would say in par with teakEmpress G wrote:Has anybody here heard of or used olivier wood for building? Can you share your results if so? Not necessarily pics...just what was your experience with it.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:Not Trinidad but Jamaica - Diplo's house
demented wrote:Anybody ever see this installation tools selling locally?
dtopshottas wrote:Hey 2NRS,
What is the best primer and sealer for gypsum ceilings?
demented wrote:dtopshottas wrote:Hey 2NRS,
What is the best primer and sealer for gypsum ceilings?
Good day guys, I am also looking for some recommendations on Gypsum primer and sealer.
Chimera wrote:it have normal sealer and primer selling by contractors warehouse/ home store/ most places that sell gypsum products
pugboy wrote:that stuff sticks to anything
need methylated spirits if you plan to wash and reside brush’s
adnj wrote:pugboy wrote:that stuff sticks to anything
need methylated spirits if you plan to wash and reside brush’s
That's Zinsser BIN. Bullseye 123 doesn't hide as well, but for new ceilings, I haven't seen anything that will give a better primer coat.
Jerry84 wrote:Looking for a suggestion
My father has an apartment building with 4 units which he started to build about 30 years ago. He completed one unit at a time so that the income could go towards building the other unit. In this regard, each unit was facilitated with its own pump and tank.
Due to the water shortages we experienced in recent years, he was in a situation where he had to change water pumps occasionally. He opted to have an extra pump on hand but the situation is the pumps are different brands. Therefore everytime one is changed, plumbing is reconfigured (inflow and outflow location).
I was wondering if there is some kind of flex line (similar to those used for supplying toilets and vanities) that can be used in this application.
I'm also open to suggestions. Size of pvc at pump locations for all units is 3/4".
PEX and it's fittings available locally ?adnj wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Looking for a suggestion
My father has an apartment building with 4 units which he started to build about 30 years ago. He completed one unit at a time so that the income could go towards building the other unit. In this regard, each unit was facilitated with its own pump and tank.
Due to the water shortages we experienced in recent years, he was in a situation where he had to change water pumps occasionally. He opted to have an extra pump on hand but the situation is the pumps are different brands. Therefore everytime one is changed, plumbing is reconfigured (inflow and outflow location).
I was wondering if there is some kind of flex line (similar to those used for supplying toilets and vanities) that can be used in this application.
I'm also open to suggestions. Size of pvc at pump locations for all units is 3/4".
There is flexible copper and flexible stainless steel that are made specifically for water heater connections. There is also PEX tubing that is used for general water supply plumbing.
You'll probably be happier with PEX.
Jerry84 wrote:Looking for a suggestion
My father has an apartment building with 4 units which he started to build about 30 years ago. He completed one unit at a time so that the income could go towards building the other unit. In this regard, each unit was facilitated with its own pump and tank.
Due to the water shortages we experienced in recent years, he was in a situation where he had to change water pumps occasionally. He opted to have an extra pump on hand but the situation is the pumps are different brands. Therefore everytime one is changed, plumbing is reconfigured (inflow and outflow location).
I was wondering if there is some kind of flex line (similar to those used for supplying toilets and vanities) that can be used in this application.
I'm also open to suggestions. Size of pvc at pump locations for all units is 3/4".
Initially my dad didn't have the float switch or whatever it's called. Had 2 pumps being damaged because of no water, one actually damaged because of a surge (at least that's what was told to us) and another conveniently disappeared when a tenant was given eviction notice (made arrangements to collect keys on a particular day as per agreement but they left before without out knowledge)pugboy wrote:pex is used by some of the higher end plumbers locally so i presume it’s available
you could use a union fitting up to a certain point so after that the piping doesn’t change
you only do over the piping before the union
just buy a bunch of the same brand unions to have on hand, or use threaded fittings instead of unions
why did pumps fail?
do you have dry tank protection float switches?
I understand this. Thanks manmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Looking for a suggestion
My father has an apartment building with 4 units which he started to build about 30 years ago. He completed one unit at a time so that the income could go towards building the other unit. In this regard, each unit was facilitated with its own pump and tank.
Due to the water shortages we experienced in recent years, he was in a situation where he had to change water pumps occasionally. He opted to have an extra pump on hand but the situation is the pumps are different brands. Therefore everytime one is changed, plumbing is reconfigured (inflow and outflow location).
I was wondering if there is some kind of flex line (similar to those used for supplying toilets and vanities) that can be used in this application.
I'm also open to suggestions. Size of pvc at pump locations for all units is 3/4".
Similar situation with a fix that worked for me. If you have the extra pumps in hand. Do the plumbing on the spare pumps to facilitate an easy swap using unions. Get the damaged pumps repaired and keep them as spares. Cost wise I’ll suggest sticking to PVC. Picture shows the ease of unions, so if pump needs to be replaced, really easy swap.
If memory serves me correctly I believe it was the electronic components that were damaged. Vaguely remember something about a capacitor.alfa wrote:Pentax is cheaper and performs well. The pump that was supposedly damaged by a surge you should get that properly checked. A surge can damage the electronics in the smart head but cannot burn the actual coils in the motor
Jerry84 wrote:I understand this. Thanks manmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Looking for a suggestion
My father has an apartment building with 4 units which he started to build about 30 years ago. He completed one unit at a time so that the income could go towards building the other unit. In this regard, each unit was facilitated with its own pump and tank.
Due to the water shortages we experienced in recent years, he was in a situation where he had to change water pumps occasionally. He opted to have an extra pump on hand but the situation is the pumps are different brands. Therefore everytime one is changed, plumbing is reconfigured (inflow and outflow location).
I was wondering if there is some kind of flex line (similar to those used for supplying toilets and vanities) that can be used in this application.
I'm also open to suggestions. Size of pvc at pump locations for all units is 3/4".
Similar situation with a fix that worked for me. If you have the extra pumps in hand. Do the plumbing on the spare pumps to facilitate an easy swap using unions. Get the damaged pumps repaired and keep them as spares. Cost wise I’ll suggest sticking to PVC. Picture shows the ease of unions, so if pump needs to be replaced, really easy swap.
In my situation the pumps are different brands and all already have the pressure tanks and switches installed. My issue is with the different brands of pumps, the lineup is somewhat different for the inflow and outflow on the pump.
Understood. Thanks for your advice.matix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:I understand this. Thanks manmatix wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Looking for a suggestion
My father has an apartment building with 4 units which he started to build about 30 years ago. He completed one unit at a time so that the income could go towards building the other unit. In this regard, each unit was facilitated with its own pump and tank.
Due to the water shortages we experienced in recent years, he was in a situation where he had to change water pumps occasionally. He opted to have an extra pump on hand but the situation is the pumps are different brands. Therefore everytime one is changed, plumbing is reconfigured (inflow and outflow location).
I was wondering if there is some kind of flex line (similar to those used for supplying toilets and vanities) that can be used in this application.
I'm also open to suggestions. Size of pvc at pump locations for all units is 3/4".
Similar situation with a fix that worked for me. If you have the extra pumps in hand. Do the plumbing on the spare pumps to facilitate an easy swap using unions. Get the damaged pumps repaired and keep them as spares. Cost wise I’ll suggest sticking to PVC. Picture shows the ease of unions, so if pump needs to be replaced, really easy swap.
In my situation the pumps are different brands and all already have the pressure tanks and switches installed. My issue is with the different brands of pumps, the lineup is somewhat different for the inflow and outflow on the pump.
Understood, what I’m getting at, the lineup doesn’t matter. You can do the plumbing with PVC fittings to line up any way it’s needed. And keep the additional pumps for emergencies. Make sure it’s the same type of unions so when you need to switch, it’s works perfectly.
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