Which residential water pump to buy?

[alfa]

What's a reliable brand of smart head? I'm seeing haitun for 3 something and another Spanish brand for 6 something, choelo's the name I think. I run a tank and switch but I think the new generation of electronics may have improved.
Btw I got the Pentax working flawlessly after a second cleaning and a heavy coat of red oxide inside

[pugboy]

inside ?
the wasa particles will erode that paint fast

What's a reliable brand of smart head? I'm seeing haitun for 3 something and another Spanish brand for 6 something, choelo's the name I think. I run a tank and switch but I think the new generation of electronics may have improved.
Btw I got the Pentax working flawlessly after a second cleaning and a heavy coat of red oxide inside

[alfa]

inside ?
the wasa particles will erode that paint fast

What's a reliable brand of smart head? I'm seeing haitun for 3 something and another Spanish brand for 6 something, choelo's the name I think. I run a tank and switch but I think the new generation of electronics may have improved.
Btw I got the Pentax working flawlessly after a second cleaning and a heavy coat of red oxide inside

Yeah. It's doing 5 years already so if it gives a year or two again I'm good

[VexXx Dogg]

That red oxide inside might firetruck up the smarthead. It’s very sensitive to particles and that dotish internal switch mechanism.

[wheelbarrow]

That Red Oxide might firetruck you or your skin.
I hope that’s not pumping water you are consuming or bathing with.

[viedcht]

Ah see Peakes carrying a Sealand brand water pump with Peakes smart head, any experiences with that brand?

Another question; does the smart head (like on the Leo waterpumps) prevent the pump from burning if there is no water supply as opposed to the pressure tanks? A plumber said that to me and I wasn't sure.

[maj. tom]

A smarthead is really called an Automatic Pump Controller.

In a properly working unit it cuts the current to the pump if it detects no water input above a certain pressure, and you have to hard reset it once you prime the pump again. So the pump won't burn out because the flowing water is what really cools the motor. The bigger and better built brand-name pumps could probably survive some motor heat, but those cheaper Chinese brand will burn out easy.

[pugboy]

the haitun smarthead which leo comes with reset automatically

[viedcht]

Thanks fellas was kinda worried...

After switching over to a Leo 3/4, replacing a hump head/solenoid Goulds half hp, after a few weeks of troubleshooting (whenever I got the chance) I found that both angle valves on the toilet tanks were leaking from valve itself. Leo was coming on regularly like every 5-20mins depending on how the valve rubber was seating between opening and closing. Tenant didn't realise, and only on a few visits I noticed pump activity. Don't know how that constant on/off affect pump.

[maj. tom]

I installed the quarter-turn close valve to all the toilets. I always close it after a flush and the tank refill. A little inconvenient, but it's just a safety thing for my peace of mind so the water doesn't waste. The wear and tear of the toilet rubber washers and seals over time can cost more than just the water, but the pump and light bill too.

In places where you pay by the cubic meter of water that slow drip adds up.

[VexXx Dogg]

A smarthead is really called an Automatic Pump Controller.

In a properly working unit it cuts the current to the pump if it detects no water input above a certain pressure, and you have to hard reset it once you prime the pump again. So the pump won't burn out because the flowing water is what really cools the motor. The bigger and better built brand-name pumps could probably survive some motor heat, but those cheaper Chinese brand will burn out easy.

If the smart head sticks in the run position, which happened to me with the last 4 brands, it will run continuously and eventually burst the pipe with thermal fatigue. The water literally boils in the pump since it does not have anywhere to flow and expands the pvc. Only once it ran long enough to do that,
The other times I was home to realize it failed and running continuously.

Failed models
Pentax old model head with the top cone (4 years)
Pentax new model head (3 ish years)
Hidromatic (2 years)
Haitun (faulty out the box, worked for 2 hours then stuck open)

After the last one, got fedup and I went to pressure tank and pressure switch.

[pugboy]

sometimes it’s the motor chassis getting hot from continuous running which heats any pvc fittings

[Jerry84]

Looking for some advice.

I have 2 water pumps from which I need to install one. One is a 1hp Leo stainless steel and the other is a Goulds 3/4hp.

The run is from the tanks where the pump will be situated in close proximity to them, then it runs upstairs (approximately 12ft high), then at that level for 30 feet before dropping back down to ground level and supplying the rest of the house.

Which pump would be ideal for this and what size of pipe/configuration should I used?

[VexXx Dogg]

both handling that comfortably. 12ft lift is nothing to talk about as long as suction side is not taking air from anywhere.
Run 1" from tank to pump inlet, and 3/4 for the main runs, then you can reduce rto 1/2 for the taps/faucet/supply entry

[Jerry84]

both handling that comfortably. 12ft lift is nothing to talk about as long as suction side is not taking air from anywhere.
Run 1" from tank to pump inlet, and 3/4 for the main runs, then you can reduce rto 1/2 for the taps/faucet/supply entry

Thanks for the feedback

Would you advise that a 1/2" pipe supply a shower, toilet, single vanity and a tankless water heater?

Or would I have to go 3/4 and break down at the points of use?

[VexXx Dogg]

both handling that comfortably. 12ft lift is nothing to talk about as long as suction side is not taking air from anywhere.
Run 1" from tank to pump inlet, and 3/4 for the main runs, then you can reduce rto 1/2 for the taps/faucet/supply entry

Thanks for the feedback

Would you advise that a 1/2" pipe supply a shower, toilet, single vanity and a tankless water heater?

Or would I have to go 3/4 and break down at the points of use?

I would go 3/4 and split to 1/2 at points.

1/2 with all those running would prob be low.

Disclaimer: not a plumber, just a diy fixer when needed

[Chimera]

So u does just play up with pipe

[adnj]

both handling that comfortably. 12ft lift is nothing to talk about as long as suction side is not taking air from anywhere.
Run 1" from tank to pump inlet, and 3/4 for the main runs, then you can reduce rto 1/2 for the taps/faucet/supply entry

Thanks for the feedback

Would you advise that a 1/2" pipe supply a shower, toilet, single vanity and a tankless water heater?

Or would I have to go 3/4 and break down at the points of use?

I would go 3/4 and split to 1/2 at points.

1/2 with all those running would prob be low.

Disclaimer: not a plumber, just a diy fixer when needed

What he said.

Generally speaking, the water supply pipes for a home are ¾ inch in diameter and the plumbing to each individual fixture is ½ inch in diameter.

[VexXx Dogg]

So u does just play up with pipe

As long as is meh own pipe