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I share the same view as well but I usually use a half quart of transmission fluid in with the old oil ever so often. Drain and replace with correct oil after running it about half hour or so . Aint fail me yet on a Hyundai Matrix doing close to 300k on the original engineDave wrote:Let me echo the same sentiments being shared about diesel oil having more detergents.
When I do a service on a vehicle and sludge is an issue from missed changes, diesel oil works wonders in cleaning the engine up.
Don't allow it to remain for a regular change interval but as soon as the oil discolors, it should be changed not too soon after. A cleaning of the valve cover when using the diesel would also help remove some of the heaviness of the sludge and not make the engine work harder when all the crud has become loose.
All engines consume oil - all of them - but at different rates. Boxer and rotary engines have looser tolerances on piston rings and apex seals that allow a thicker oil film residue in the combustion chamber.agent007 wrote:It also depends on the vehicle you drive and the age of the engine. Some engines consume oil which is normal operation like some boxer and rotary engines.
Do some research so you would know if your engine is more at risk to oil burn or not. It is important to pour the correct viscosity/body as per manufacturer specs.
0W-20 and 5W-30 are common for most new/modern fuel injected, direct injected, forced induction and hybrid vehicles.
Recently a particular dealership poured 10W-30 in a new turbocharged engine doing 20,000kms. After 2 months, I decided to check the dipstick and saw that almost half the oil was burnt. The dealership's response to this was basically to doh hot yuh head cause if the engine mash up, they would replace it for free since I have evidence that they did the wrong thing.
Again I underscore, make sure the correct body is poured into your engine. These modern engines with sophisticated valve timing systems, twin cam heads and 4 valve per cylinder etc require proper lubrication and pouring thick oil into the engine would not help it at all.
Stop driving off as soon as you cold start the engine. Let the operating temperature regularize first and allow the oil to properly reach the head before you simply drive off hard or start to rev up etc.
If you're lucky enough to have a 4E-FE, 5A/4A-FE, 1G-FE, 1/2JZ-GE, GA15/16DE, SR18/20DE, RB20/25DE, 4G63, B16A and K20A then kindly ignore. We understand those engines can run like Swiss watches even if you pour sand and water in them lol.
aaron17 wrote:I always don't check it when it reaches operating temperature even though the manual says it. Only cold.
What is the purpose of checking it at operating temperature? Even if we are in a warm climate?
adnj wrote:All engines consume oil - all of them - but at different rates. Boxer and rotary engines have looser tolerances on piston rings and apex seals that allow a thicker oil film residue in the combustion chamber.agent007 wrote:It also depends on the vehicle you drive and the age of the engine. Some engines consume oil which is normal operation like some boxer and rotary engines.
Do some research so you would know if your engine is more at risk to oil burn or not. It is important to pour the correct viscosity/body as per manufacturer specs.
0W-20 and 5W-30 are common for most new/modern fuel injected, direct injected, forced induction and hybrid vehicles.
Recently a particular dealership poured 10W-30 in a new turbocharged engine doing 20,000kms. After 2 months, I decided to check the dipstick and saw that almost half the oil was burnt. The dealership's response to this was basically to doh hot yuh head cause if the engine mash up, they would replace it for free since I have evidence that they did the wrong thing.
Again I underscore, make sure the correct body is poured into your engine. These modern engines with sophisticated valve timing systems, twin cam heads and 4 valve per cylinder etc require proper lubrication and pouring thick oil into the engine would not help it at all.
Stop driving off as soon as you cold start the engine. Let the operating temperature regularize first and allow the oil to properly reach the head before you simply drive off hard or start to rev up etc.
If you're lucky enough to have a 4E-FE, 5A/4A-FE, 1G-FE, 1/2JZ-GE, GA15/16DE, SR18/20DE, RB20/25DE, 4G63, B16A and K20A then kindly ignore. We understand those engines can run like Swiss watches even if you pour sand and water in them lol.
kamakazi wrote:Rotaries inject engine oil directly into the combustion chambers from factory
Mercenary wrote:Phone Surgeon wrote:D bess time to check is when the the oil light come on and yuh see smoke coming from under the bonnet.
Zalos wrote:What oil change intervals yall use?
I really do have a sludgy engine that im trying to clean out, go try out these things too.
Dave wrote:Wynn's and Amsoil sell oil flushes that isn't kerosene in a bottle.
A 15/40 diesel oil with a quick change As it darkens can be useful.
Change interval is dependant upon brand and filter choice.
Btw I have used a chubby bottle of kerosene in an engine for a clean up. Don't drive it nor rev and drain about 10mins after. Kerosene is still cheaper than buying a flush that is kerosene.
agent007 wrote:I am willing to accept that the 2 QG's we owned for a collective period of 22 years were garbage. We apparently were the unlucky ones.
Dave wrote:Old man had a SGL from Massy and that was one of the best cars we ever had. Changed cam and crank and air flow as per recall. Owned for 14 years.
We also had a SS B14 Sentra from Massy and that could rival the GA16. They never went Massy btw for service apart from the 1k km free service.
Neither missed a beat as far as engine performance and response. Gas was also good when my father drove.
It all boils down to knowing what you have and to me I have zero faith in any and all dealership service bays.
Subaru was just added to a failure in terms of service with an XV that was purchased but doesn't surprise me quite honestly.agent007 wrote:I am willing to accept that the 2 QG's we owned for a collective period of 22 years were garbage. We apparently were the unlucky ones.
I just asking eh so don't kill mih but what wrong with Purolator filters? I wouldn't put a certain model Fram filter on my vehicle because of documented problems but Purolator? Not finding much info WRT issues with them.agent007 wrote:Mitsubishi really shined before they axe the Lancer yes. What a shame! Those INVECS 11 4AT transmissions were pretty reliable too.
My limited data (including anecdotal) suggests that these are the top tier brands when it comes to engine oil:
Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Idemitsu, Schaefer's, Motul, Valvoline, Mobil1, Pennzoil, Havoline and Liqui Moly.
I also learnt to stay far from Bosch, Purolator and FRAM oil filters. I always hear mechanics say to go oem or the only Fram they would recommend is the gold ultra synthetic.
*Fram = FrameDave wrote:Bosch workshop filters are very entry level.
However the ones above are of a very high grade.
Purolator units are good and I use the synthetic units in my servicing and oil packages. Wix is also another top notch filter. The silver and gold Frame units are great filters as well.
The issue with filters comes about when ppl use synthetic oils and run for over 5k km and expect a regular filter or an OE unit to also go the distance. OE filters are not synthetic and dealers need to stop sticking to that misguidance all for selling their parts.
I haven't sliced a Frame unit in pieces in years so not sure if they changed their internal construction but haven't heard any bad feedback in years and they seem to be on every shelf of every parts place so ppl are using them.
agent007 wrote:I also learnt to stay far from Bosch, Purolator and FRAM oil filters. I always hear mechanics say to go oem or the only Fram they would recommend is the gold ultra synthetic.
