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pugboy wrote:Boy you might end up with a well from the seepage of the old soakaway
air wick wrote:Lance wrote:I'm currentlypugboy wrote:We had put it when we changed our roof sheeting a long time ago,
Can't say yes or no, but I think it helped slightly.
A well vented ceiling is recommended in general
The best thing they say is to install ceiling exhaust fans to move the hot air out of the ceiling.Did you cast the base of the soakaway?air wick wrote:pugboy wrote:Nice long rubble drain
Any pics of inside soakaway ?
I'm currently dealing with soakaway headaches. Definitely not a trivial problem.
6 years into the initial one, it stopped flowing. I'm still unsure as to what caused it. It may be a combination of a few things - not cleaning the old tank soon enough and possibly the caving in of the side walls.
I'm digging a new one and noticing that the soil may not be best regarding penetration. But the new soak away hole might also be a little too close to the old one so the diggers are experiencing some caving in and a little seepage.
I bought some geotextile fabric but I'm not sure if that would be sufficient to prevent sediment filtering back into the stone.
Yes I cast the base for the soak away pit.
This is Travis btw. from boxer sup. group
cornfused wrote:Still, have 50 yards 3 x 35mm XLPE for sale rated to 130-5 amps
For outdoor or weather facing wall applications in over 15 years as a contractor, I would recommend two products:
1. Lanco Spakling. Application on weather facing concrete or gypsum walls mix a one to one with poly v the spackling would turn to a paste, apply as you would plastering.
2. Polly V and standard mud, I used this to cover concrete bricks getting weather painted over the final surface, still good.
These two applications have been taking the weather for more than ten years no problems.
pugboy wrote:Anybody know best way to cut a hole about 18” in corrugated roof sheet to install an extractor fan ?
Roof is a shed with gentle slope, I guess would need some kind of V flashing to direct water off
Jerry84 wrote:Wanted to find out what's the thinnest concrete board that's readily available and average pricing per sheet
pugboy wrote:I bought a sheet of 1/4” plycem by Agostinis
Friday for $147
Using it to replace celotexJerry84 wrote:Wanted to find out what's the thinnest concrete board that's readily available and average pricing per sheet
pugboy wrote:That easy
There are blue concrete screws you can use
Drill hole and they bite direct into brick or concrete
They come in counter sunk head
Jerry84 wrote:Where can I get them and the cost?? I plan on using approximately10 4x8 sheets to cover the area. Want to place the gypsum tape over them and mudding it ..hoping to cover seams and screw heads to give a smooth finish..Open to suggestions/ criticismspugboy wrote:That easy
There are blue concrete screws you can use
Drill hole and they bite direct into brick or concrete
They come in counter sunk head
rspann wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Where can I get them and the cost?? I plan on using approximately10 4x8 sheets to cover the area. Want to place the gypsum tape over them and mudding it ..hoping to cover seams and screw heads to give a smooth finish..Open to suggestions/ criticismspugboy wrote:That easy
There are blue concrete screws you can use
Drill hole and they bite direct into brick or concrete
They come in counter sunk head
I had the same problem last week and made them use a grinder to take off all the paint before plastering it over.
Jerry84 wrote:Wished it was that easy...there is approximately 10 years of paint on the walls....and its a large surface area...so looking for the easy way outrspann wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Where can I get them and the cost?? I plan on using approximately10 4x8 sheets to cover the area. Want to place the gypsum tape over them and mudding it ..hoping to cover seams and screw heads to give a smooth finish..Open to suggestions/ criticismspugboy wrote:That easy
There are blue concrete screws you can use
Drill hole and they bite direct into brick or concrete
They come in counter sunk head
I had the same problem last week and made them use a grinder to take off all the paint before plastering it over.
Jerry84 wrote:Wished it was that easy...there is approximately 10 years of paint on the walls....and its a large surface area...so looking for the easy way outrspann wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Where can I get them and the cost?? I plan on using approximately10 4x8 sheets to cover the area. Want to place the gypsum tape over them and mudding it ..hoping to cover seams and screw heads to give a smooth finish..Open to suggestions/ criticismspugboy wrote:That easy
There are blue concrete screws you can use
Drill hole and they bite direct into brick or concrete
They come in counter sunk head
I had the same problem last week and made them use a grinder to take off all the paint before plastering it over.
Agree with rspann: fiberglass tape and concrete plaster should be used on cement board seams. The blue screws are called "Tapcon" screws.rspann wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Wished it was that easy...there is approximately 10 years of paint on the walls....and its a large surface area...so looking for the easy way outrspann wrote:Jerry84 wrote:Where can I get them and the cost?? I plan on using approximately10 4x8 sheets to cover the area. Want to place the gypsum tape over them and mudding it ..hoping to cover seams and screw heads to give a smooth finish..Open to suggestions/ criticismspugboy wrote:That easy
There are blue concrete screws you can use
Drill hole and they bite direct into brick or concrete
They come in counter sunk head
I had the same problem last week and made them use a grinder to take off all the paint before plastering it over.
Sander is less work and less cost, plus longer lasting if you put a slick coat of mortar. If you go with the cement board ,dont use paper tape and mud. Use mesh tape and plaster it.
hong kong phooey wrote: you dont need to strip all the paint , just spot strip it and cut some grooves in the brick work .
hong kong phooey wrote:
spray the wall with poly V and mix some of the polyV in your mortar mix .
hong kong phooey wrote:
Add some of the porcelain tinset in your mortar mix to plaster the wall.
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