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shake d livin wake d dead wrote:the most you would spend is on fertilizers...and that is probably every 6 months or so
adnj wrote:Go old school: 4 strands of barbed wire instead of chain link.
adnj wrote:You said that you had about a 1.33 acre lot. Pace off the your boundaries and see how big it is. I would guess that it's about 250 to 300 feet on a side. What you have is called an "80 rod roll" because a rod is 16.5 ft. That should be enough to go all the way around your lot with some left over.
If you have four 80 rod rolls, that's all you need to put up a 4-strand barbed wire fence. For posts, you can either use rot resistant wood or metal. If you use metal you can try to find T-posts and just drive them in like you would a grounding rod; no need to dig, except at the corners, transitions, and the gate posts.
Your father must have known what he was doing.
HSA wrote:remember you have to crab the bottom of the post eh....
posts could be 10 or 12 ft apart...once u have a solid base
yvan300 wrote:Anyone can inform me on the proper equipment to wear when spraying swiper herbicide? Thinking I might need a respirator. Not sure of the type though.
hong kong phooey wrote:yvan300 wrote:Anyone can inform me on the proper equipment to wear when spraying swiper herbicide? Thinking I might need a respirator. Not sure of the type though.
yvan . you can get all sort of stuff from respirators, gloves, rubber boots , rubber apron
or you can spray early in the morning before the wind starts blowing, spray staying with your wand downwind. try to limit your body exposure- dont walk where you spray already
francis1979 wrote:Fellow tuners - need some advice on agricultural land lease - when the lease is up or expired- what is the process for getting it renewed
Is their any risk of it now being renewed
Zetski wrote:Wear yuh safety equipment yvan so yuh don't get sick off ah bioaccumulation..
EFFECTIC DESIGNS wrote:I use the blue eagle respirator that cost me $50 at the local garden shop but I am not sure if this is safe.
When I spray an acre or more with the mist blower I could still taste the herbicide poison in my throat. Wondering if its maybe an issue with the respirator strap not being tight enough or the actual filter etc.
ALSO how much urea goes into a 2 year old coconut tree? what is the correct measurement? considering buying a 100lb bag and its 160 trees. I am assuming maybe 1/2 pound urea per tree? so the 100lb bag should comfortably do the whole land.
adnj wrote:A balanced slow-release fetilizer is what you should be using, not urea. Urea is best used for vegetables crops and grass.
Trees and shrubs will usually not benefit from urea because of the way that it reacts with the soil to become free nitrogen. You'll want a sulfated nitrogen that can get to the roots. Stick with a 2:1:1 ratio for most coconuts or use a 1:1:1 ratio with some urea buried near the drip line of the tree if you want to save money by using urea.
Coconuts use about 1.5 lbs of nitrogen per 100 sq ft of canopy. You will get some from the soil but you can't know unless you soil test first or pay close attention to the color of the leaves before and after fertilizing.
As I said before, for herbicides you need an organic vapor cartridge. A cartridge has a life expectancy measured in hours of use. If you smell odors or have an after-taste then that's an indicator that the carbon cartridge has been used up and needs to be replaced.
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