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Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

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UML
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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby UML » August 9th, 2010, 4:34 pm

ok so I thinking about other options for NOT buying a RO/DI system....because my point is that once yuh tank full you dont need the "clean water" only for topping up...right?!!! so why buy a whole system that u will hardly use when u dont need it that much.

I reading distilled water is the same as reverse osmosis water.......so this brings me to ask....

Where can I buy distilled water? and in large quantities.

Any lab workers here? :mrgreen:

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UML
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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby UML » August 9th, 2010, 5:00 pm

Unless someone want tuh make some money on the side and sell water from their RO/DI system (make back ur money spent)...which I woulda do if I had one :wink:

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 9th, 2010, 5:11 pm

then all you need to buy is d salt. thats de reason why i buy 5gal bottles (bluewaters bottles) from raj that already mixed to the right salinity and everything.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 9th, 2010, 10:45 pm

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/Aquarium-chillers/

What is an aquarium chiller?

You have probably heard of aquarium heaters already; equipment that will heat up the water and make it possible to house species that require a higher water temperature than the air surrounding the aquarium. An aquarium chiller does just the opposite; it chills the water and makes it possible to keep species that need a lower water temperature.

To make it possible for you to set the optimum temperature for your particular aquarium, the aquarium chiller is equipped with a thermostat control unit – just like a heater. When shopping for a chiller, there is more than one solution to choose among. A single-stage controller will control only the chiller, while a dual-stage controller will control a chiller AND a heater. It might sound strange, but in many situations you may need to use a chiller as well as a heater to keep the correct water temperature in the aquarium and a dual-stage controller will help minimize variance and eliminate conflicts between the two.
When do I need an aquarium chiller?

You need an aquarium chiller when the ambient room temperature is higher than the desired water temperature. This can be due to many reasons, such as:

* You wish to keep cold water species indoor and decreasing your indoor temperature low enough is not an option.
* You live in an area subjected to seasonal heat-spells that increase room temperature and wreck sudden havoc in your aquarium.
* You live in a warm part of the world and decreasing your indoor temperature low enough is not an option.
* You have installed heat emitting equipment that increase the water temperature, e.g. pumps and lights.

Many people think that aquarium chillers are only necessary if you wish to keep species from temperate or arctic parts of the world, but this is very far from the truth. A subtropical species used to a water temperature of 18-25°C can for instance suffer if a sudden heat spell turns the air temperature in your house up to 30°C. Also keep in mind that the water temperature tends to drop sharply with depth and deep-water species can therefore require really chilly water even if they hail from the tropics.
Tips and aquarium chiller recommendations

* A common mistake is to unplug the aquarium heater when a chiller is used. This is usually not a good idea, because an unplugged heater can cause the temperature to drop too far, e.g. if the weather suddenly changes or if you live in a part of the world where the days are hot and the nights cooler. A properly working heater with a thermostat will shut off as soon as the water has become warm enough and it can therefore be used together with a chiller.

* The chiller itself will actually emit quite a lot of heat. It is therefore not a good idea to enclose the chiller or place it inside aquarium furniture unless the furniture is very well ventilated.

* When choosing between two chillers, go for the more powerful one. You will usually get more bang for your buck by purchasing a really powerful chiller. Even weak chillers tend to be quite expensive, and the price does not increase proportionally to capacity as you upgrade to a more powerful piece. By getting a chiller that is more powerful than the minimum recommendation for your aquarium, you will normally end up with a chiller that lasts much longer before it has to be replaced than a weaker chiller would.

* If noise is a factor, try to find out beforehand how much noise the chiller will make, e.g. by reading reviews, asking questions in aquarium forums, contacting your local fish club, or asking the seller to test-run several chillers in the store before you make a purchase. Chillers can be quite noisy.

Water chillers and marine aquariums

Water chillers are more commonly used by marine aquarists than freshwater aquarists, due to several reasons. To being with, a given volume of saltwater is capable of holding far less dissolved oxygen than an equal amount of freshwater at the same temperature. When the temperature starts to increase above recommended levels in an aquarium, it is not always the heat itself that causes a problem for the fish – many fish are instead harmed by a lack of dissolved oxygen in the water. The warmer the water, the lower its capacity for holding dissolved oxygen. This is true for both freshwater and saltwater, but since saltwater is capable of holding less dissolved oxygen to begin with the situation tend to become problematic sooner in a marine tank.

Another important reason why chillers tend to be more common in marine aquariums is that so many popular freshwater species are used to fluctuating temperatures and oxygen levels in the wild, or a permanently high temperature and/or a low level of oxygen. A fish that can survive under the scorching sun in a puddle on the African savannah or in a murky algae-infested South-East Asian ditch can usually handle a heat spell in the aquarium without much ado. Quite a few species, such as the Gouramis, has even adapted special organs that make it possible for them to breathe air directly from the atmosphere if the level of dissolved oxygen starts to plummet. In the ocean, a scarcity of oxygen is on the other hand not something that the species have be forced to learned how to deal with, especially not the popular reef species that are common among marine aquarists.

There are naturally exceptions these generalizations; many freshwater species can only be kept within a very limited temperature span and may die if you allow the level of dissolved oxygen to plunge. There are also marine species that can cope well with an increased water temperature as well as a scarcity of oxygen.

Last but not least, marine aquariums tend to be more “equipment-demanding” than freshwater tanks and electric equipment generates heat. Marine aquariums usually require more potent filters and if you wish to keep live corals you are often required to install really potent lighting. When combined, all the equipment can make it necessary to invest in a marine aquarium water chiller.

Generally speaking, live corals should not be exposed to a water temperature above 84 degrees F / 29 degrees C, but the exact recommendation will of course depend on in which environment the coral grows in the wild. The same is true when it comes to fish; always research the preferred water temperature of your particular species and do not combine species used to very dissimilar temperatures.
Water chillers and freshwater aquariums

As mentioned above, freshwater fish tend to be more capable of handling increased or constantly high water temperatures in the aquarium; provided of course that you pick the right species. Always research your particular to find out their temperature preferences and how well they can cope with increased or constantly high water temperatures in the aquarium, as well as with oxygen depletion.

One of the factors that will have a major impact on how high a water temperature your fish can tolerate is the bio-load in the aquarium, i.e. how much waste that is produced and how much water there is to dilute the waste with. The higher the bio-load, the higher the risk of oxygen scarcity as the water temperature increases. Water risk of having to purchase a water chiller for a freshwater aquarium is therefore higher in the following situations:

* Your aquarium is crowded.
* You keep species that eat a lot and produce a lot of waste.
* You keep “messy-eaters”.
* You over-feed.
* You do not have and abundance of thriving plants that can bind organic waste and produce oxygen in the aquarium.
* You do not have efficient filtration (mechanical and biological).
* You are not carrying out frequent water changes.

Types of water chillers

Most types of water chillers for aquarium use fall into one of two broad categories: drop-in water chillers and in-line water chillers.
Drop in water chiller

A drop-in water chiller consists of coils placed in a sump. This type of water cooler does not require any plumbing.
Inline water chiller

An in-line water chiller is quipped with internal cooling coils. Water is pumped out of the aquarium, into the chiller where it is cooled, and then back to the aquarium (or sump). An in-line chiller can be placed away from the aquarium and is therefore easier to hide.
Cheap water chiller

Many aquarists are looking for cheap water chillers, but there are a few things that you need to keep in mind before you simply purchase the cheapest chiller you happen to find. If you want a cheap water chiller, it is important to first determine how much time you are planning on using your chiller. Are you buying a chiller as a back-up to be used for a few exceptionally hot summer days each year or are you planning on using it for longer periods, such as entire summers or even year round? A cheap chiller that might be perfect as a safety measure for sudden, but not very long lasting, heat-spells may very well be highly unsuitable for aquarists in need of long-term chilling. Constantly having to fix or replace cheap water chillers can be quite expensive in the long run, not to mention the hassle for you and the risk mal-functioning equipment poses to your fish. Instead of focusing on price only, it is better to focus on performance and durability and then try to find the cheapest possible water chiller that still fulfils all your requirements.

Trying to find the perfect water chiller can be tricky, so don’t hesitate to ask others for advice, e.g. by contacting your local fish club or asking questions in an online aquarium forum. When you have figured out roughly what you need, it is time to start shopping for a chiller. Ideally contact more than once aquarium supplier in your area and also do some online research. If you want to find a cheap water chiller without having to sacrifices quality, you should be prepared to contact quite a few vendors. In many cases, you can save yourself considerable amounts of money by ordering your water chiller online. In other cases, a local shop is to be preferred, e.g. if it offers attractive guarantees and speedy repairs if your chiller malfunctions. In a local shop you can also ask the vendor to test-run the chiller for you to check how loud it is.
Premium water chiller

Investing in a premium water chiller is an especially good idea if you use your chiller for more than just a few hot-spell days a year. Unfortunately, a high price does not equal a premium water chiller. Imagine how convenient it would be if all you had to do to get a supreme water chiller was to save up some money and then go for the most expensive chiller possible? The truth is however that you have to do your homework when purchasing a premium water chiller to make sure that you actually get your money's worth. Do not hesitate to ask other fish keepers about their experience with various water chillers in order to get as much unbiased advice as possible before you make a purchase. The Internet is a virtual gold-mine here since it makes it easy to compare opinions and advice from more than one online forum and review site. The Internet can also help you compare the price of premium water chillers from a myriad of different vendors. Before you start comparing prices, it is especially important to ask your fellow fish keepers about the longevity of their own premium water chillers, because a fairly inexpensive model can turn out to be really inexpensive in long run if it gives up the ghost as soon as the guarantee days are over. In addition to this, carefully check the various guarantees offers by different sellers and, if possible, obtain information about how complaining fish keepers have been treated by the seller when their premium chillers began to malfunction.
DIY aquarium chiller
How to make a homemade aquarium chiller

Equipment

* A hand drill
* A ½ inch or 5/16 inch drill bit
* Screwdrivers
* Knife or scissors for cutting tubing and pipes

Materials

* A small refrigerator with a freezer/ice cube tray section. A 1-1/2 cubic feet refrigerator is suitable.
* ½ inch thin-wall PVC pipe. You will need roughly 1 foot.
* Epoxy glue (5-minute)
* PVC fittings. It doesn’t matter if it is threaded or slip.
* 3/8 inch hard plastic tubing. You will need roughly 50-100 feet.
* Silicone sealant suitable for aquarium use.
* A pump/powerhead (powerful enough to pump water through the chiller fast enough)



Overview

DIY Aquarium Chiller

Everything is placed in the plastic box inside the refrigerator housing.

The turquoise square on the sketch symbolizes freezer compartment with temperature probe attached to the inside wall of the cooling box.

Point 1: This is where the water will enter from the pump.
Point 2: The water is transported through the 3/8 inch coiled plastic tubing. (The more coils, the better the cooling effect.)
Point 3: This is where the chilled water leaves the chiller.

How to make a homemade aquarium chiller

* Ideally remove the box that isolates the freezer/ice cube tray section from the refrigerator. (In some models, this will unfortunately be virtually impossible.) Leave the temperature probe as it is.
* Drill access holes for plastic tubing on the top. (You can also drill them in the sides; the important thing is to choose access points that are practical for your particular set-up.)
* Prepare two pieces of PVC pipe; roughly 4 inches each.
* Insert the PVC pipes through the access holes.
* Reinforce the pipes with epoxy glue at the access holes.
* Seal with silicon. It is important to seal well.
* Glue or thread the PVC fittings onto the pipes and connect the pipes to the 3/8 inch tubing inside the box (coiling) and outside the box (running from the pump to the chiller and from the chiller to the aquarium/sump).

Important factors to think about

#1: The pump must be powerful enough to keep the water fast flowing; otherwise it might freeze to ice inside the chilling box.

#2: When the water runs back from the chiller to your aquarium it will be heated up again by room temperature. Using a long piece of plastic tubing between the chiller and the aquarium is therefore not a good idea. If you have to use a long tube, insulate it properly.
How to make a homemade EMERGENCY aquarium chiller

If you need a quick emergency remedy for your over-heated aquarium while putting a more durable construction together or waiting for a ready-made one to arrive, you can try this emergency chiller.

What you’ll need

* A small canister filter with the motor on top
* A bucket
* Plenty of ice

What you’ll do

* Fill the bucket with ice.
* Immerse the lower half of the canister filter in the ice.
* Use the filter as you would use a normal aquarium filter.
* Replace the ice continuously.

As mentioned above, this is just a quick emergency solution– not something that you can relay on in the long run. You have to monitor the temperature in the aquarium closely because this type of emergency aquarium chiller can easily cause dangerous fluctuations in water temperature. DO NOT unplug your heater.
Different Aquarium chiller brands

Below you will find information on some of the aquarium chiller brands that are available on the market today. We list some of the benefits and drawbacks of different brands but we don't recommend any brand over the other as the best choice will depend on your specific situation.
Aqua Logic Aquarium Chillers

Aqua Logic is a San Diego based United State's company founded in 1989. It caters primarily for the live seafood and aquaculture industry, but its products are used by others as well, including hobby aquarists. According to their own company website, their chillers are
currently being used "in major public aquariums, the largest marine research labs in the world, and industry where corrosive fluids need to be cooled". This manufacturer is perhaps best known for its long-term development of titanium water chillers, but it produces other types of chillers as well.

As of 2008, Aqua Logic offers four main chiller lines: Delta Star (R), Cyclone (R), Trimline (R), and Multi Temp (R).

If you find it hard to decide between the various chillers, this chiller selection chart from Aqua Logic might be helpful. (It is a pdf-file so you need to have a program capable of opening pdf-files installed on your computer.)

USA Prime Aquarium Chillers

USA Prime offers highly flexible aquarium chillers that can be adapted to suit your needs trough a modular system. This means that you can buy a basic chiller and then modify it to suit your requirements by adding modules such as heaters and ultraviolet sterilizers to it. This will allow you to have the features you need in one stable unit without having to pay for functions you don't need. This system is also designed to save space as several functions can be included in one design.

USA Prime offers a wide variety off different chillers, from small cheap aquarium chillers for small aquariums to sizeable chillers for really large aquariums. The company manufactures several types of aquarium chillers including Nano, Mini, Drop-In, Inline and Tower chillers. All of them come with ABS cover and a digital temperature controller. Aquarium coolers from USA Prime are known to have fairly quiet motors and are fan cooled for good cooling effect and long life span.
Deltec Eco Cooler Aquarium Chiller

Deltec Eco is a line of aquarium chillers that are specially designed to be environmentally friendly and use as little electricity as possible. This makes the Deltec Eco chillers a not only green but also economical choice as they are considerably cheaper to run than many other aquarium chillers. They do not use environmentally dangerous chemicals and are more silent than aquarium coolers using refrigerant cooler.

In a Deltec Eco chiller, the chilling effect is produced by forcing water from the aquarium to evaporate which draws heat from it, thereby cooling it down. This process is much less energy intensive than refrigerant cooling and an Eco cooler system usually uses less than 10% of the electricity used by other chillers to achieve the same chilling effect.

Deltec Eco cooler aquarium chillers might be environmentally friendly and much cheaper to run than other coolers, but unfortunately they are also expensive to buy. They can often be a good investment in the long run but makes for a bigger initial investment.

Deltec Eco has aquarium chillers for both fresh and saltwater aquariums.
Coolworks - IceProbe Aquarium Chiller

The IceProbe chiller is an aquarium chiller produced by CoolWorks. It is designed to be fitted into sumps, overflows, prefilters, and aquarium walls. The IceProve chiller does not have a thermostat and chills as long as supplied with power. It is a cheap alternative for someone who wants to integrate aquarium chilling in a system they are building but don't want to build their own DIY aquarium chiller. It is highly recommended to add a thermostat that regulates power supply to the IceProbe if building a setup using this chiller. CoolWorks also produce and sell a proportional temperature controllers designed to be used with this chiller.

The IceProbe chiller comes with a 150W effect and several units can be used to achieve better cooling effect in your setup.

Coolworks also produces the MikroChiller aquarium chiller, a smaller chiller designed to be used in nano tanks where it chills the water and increase water movement. It can bring down the temperature in a 10 gallon aquarium up to 4-6 degrees.
Oceanic Aquarium Chiller

Oceanic makes high quality aquarium chillers that by many are considered among the most silent of all chillers. They are not the cheapest brand out there but they often have a long lifespan and have very accurate thermostats that make Oceanic aquarium chillers a good choice when it is important to keep the aquarium temperature very stable. It is possible to connect a heater to Oceanic water chillers turning them into complete climate controls for your aquarium. On the negative side, Oceanic chillers tend to have a sort of plastic look and they are best hidden away in a (well ventilated) cabinet or similar as the LCD displays generate a lot of light. Oceanic is a well-established brand within the hobby the natural choice for many when they want to buy an aquarium chiller, but not a given choice as other individuals prefer other aquarium chiller brands.
TECO SeaChill Chillers

Teco was founded in 1969 and is another very popular aquarium chiller brand that is recommended by many. Chillers from Teco are known to work well and can reduce the temperature in an aquarium quickly. They will usually maintain the temperature stable in an aquarium within 1 degree Fahrenheit. Add-on heaters are available turning the chiller into a complete climate system for you aquarium. UV sterilizations units are also available for Teco SeaChill chillers.

These aquariums chillers are generally speaking running quietly but they are not the most silent aquarium chillers on the market. All Teco SeaChill aquarium chillers have LCD displays. They are very easy to connect and operate.

Many aquarists have told me that these are the best aquarium chillers on the market. I am not going to say that, just that it is a popular brand and a favorite for many. You always have to take your particular preferences into account.
Tunze Aquarium Chiller

Tunze is a company with 45 years of experience selling and producing high quality aquarium equipment. Today they provide aquarium chillers with a low energy consumption and high cooling effect. Tunze aquarium chillers often use 30-50% less electricity compared to other aquarium chillers with the same cooling power. Their energy consumption is not as low as in Deltec Eco coolers but still considerably lower than most other chillers. Tunze aquarium chillers can be fitted with heaters turning them into complete climate control systems for your aquarium.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 9th, 2010, 10:50 pm

Protein skimmer


A protein skimmer or foam fractionator is a device used mostly in saltwater aquaria to remove organic compounds from the water before they break down into nitrogenous waste. Protein skimming is the only form of aquarium filtration that physically removes organic compounds before they begin to decompose, lightening the load on the biological filter and improving the water's redox potential. Although the process of foam fractionation is commonly known for removal of waste from aquaria, it is, in fact, a rapidly developing chemical process used in the large-scale removal of contaminants from wastewater streams and the enrichment of solutions of biomolecules.
Contents
[hide]

* 1 Function
* 2 Design
o 2.1 Co-current flow systems
+ 2.1.1 Air stone
+ 2.1.2 Venturi
o 2.2 Counter-current flow systems
+ 2.2.1 Aspirating: Pin-Wheel/Adrian-Wheel, Needle-Wheel, Mesh-Wheel
+ 2.2.2 Downdraft
+ 2.2.3 Beckett skimmer
+ 2.2.4 Spray Induction
o 2.3 Recirculating Skimmer Designs
* 3 References
* 4 Further reading

[edit] Function

Protein skimming removes certain organic compounds, including proteins and amino acids, by using the polarity of the protein itself. Due to their intrinsic charge, water-borne proteins are either repelled or attracted by the air/water interface and these molecules can be described as hydrophobic (such as fats or oils) or hydrophilic (such as salt, sugar, ammonia, most amino acids, and most inorganic compounds). However, some larger organic molecules can have both hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions. These molecules are called amphipathic or amphiphilic. Commercial protein skimmers work by generating a large air/water interface, specifically by injecting large numbers of bubbles into the water column. In general, the smaller the bubbles the more effective the protein skimming is because the surface area of small bubbles occupying the same volume is much greater than the same volume of larger bubbles[1]. Large numbers of small bubbles present an enormous air/water interface for hydrophobic organic molecules and amphipathic organic molecules to collect on the bubble surface (the air/water interface). Water movement hastens diffusion of organic molecules, which effectively brings more organic molecules to the air/water interface and lets the organic molecules accumulate on the surface of the air bubbles. This process continues until the interface is saturated, unless the bubble is removed from the water or it bursts, in which case the accumulated molecules release back into the water column. However, it is important to note that further exposure of a saturated air bubble to organic molecules may continue to result in changes as compounds that bind more strongly may replace those molecules with a weaker binding that have already accumulated on the interface. Although some aquarists believe that increasing the contact time (or dwell time as it is sometimes called) is always good, it is incorrect to claim that it is always better to increase the contact time between bubbles and the aquarium water[2]. As the bubbles increase near the top of the protein skimmer water column, they become denser and the water begins to drain and create the foam that will carry the organic molecules to the skimmate collection cup or to a separate skimmate waste collector and the organic molecules, and any inorganic molecules that may have become bound to the organic molecules, will be exported from the water system.

In addition to the proteins removed by skimming, there are a number of other organic and inorganic molecules that are typically removed. These include a variety of fats, fatty acids, carbohydrates, metals such as copper and trace elements such as iodine. Particulates and other detritus is also removed, along with phytoplankton and bacteria. This removal is highly desired by the aquarist and is often emphasized by the placement of the skimmer before other forms of filtration; lessening the burden of the filtration system as a whole. There is at least one published study that provides a detailed list of the export products found in protein skimmer skimmate[3].
[edit] Design

All skimmers have key features in common: water flows through a chamber and is brought into contact with a column of fine bubbles. The bubbles collect proteins and other substances and carry them to the top of the device where the foam, but not the water, collects in a cup. Here the foam condenses to a liquid, which can be easily removed from the system. The material that collects in the cup can range from pale greenish-yellow, watery liquid to a thick black tar.


Alpha 170, designed by Klaus Jensen

Consider this summary of optimal protein skimmer design by Randy Holmes-Farley[4]:

For a skimmer to function maximally, the following things must take place:
1. A large amount of air/water interface must be generated.
2. Organic molecules must be allowed to collect at the air/water interface.
3. The bubbles forming this air/water interface must come together to form a foam.
4. The water in the foam must partially drain without the bubbles popping prematurely.
5. The drained foam must be separated from the bulk water and discarded.

Also under considerable recent attention has been the general shape of a skimmer as well. In particular, much attention has been given to the introduction of cone shaped skimmer units. Originally designed by Klaus Jensen in 2004, the concept was founded on the principle that a conical body allows the foam to accumulate more steadily through a gently sloping transition. This reduces the overall turbulence, resulting in more efficient skimming. While research into the specific benefits of the design are still being measured, early reviews of many conical skimmers have been positive overall.[5]


Overall, protein skimmers can be classed in two ways depending on whether they operate by co-current flow or counter-current flow. In a co-current flow system, air is introduced at the bottom of the chamber and is in contact with the water as it rises upwards towards the collection chamber. In a counter-current system, air is forced into the system under pressure and moves against the flow of the water for a while before it rises up towards the collection cup. Because the air bubbles may be in contact with the water for a longer period in a counter-current flow system, protein skimmers of this type are considered by some to be more effective at removing organic wastes.[6]
[edit] Co-current flow systems
[edit] Air stone

The original method of protein skimming, running pressurized air through a diffuser to produce large quantities of micro bubbles, remains a viable, effective, and economic choice, although newer technologies may require lower maintenance. The air stone is most often an oblong, partially hollowed block of wood, most often of the genus Tilia. The most popular wooden air-stones for skimmers are made from limewood (Tilia europaea or European limewood) although basswood (Tilia americana or American Linden), works as well, may be cheaper and is often more readily available. The wooden blocks are drilled, tapped, fitted with an air fitting, and connected by air tubing to one or more air pumps delivering at least 1 cfm. The wooden air stone is placed at the bottom of a tall column of water. The tank water is pumped into the column, allowed to pass by the rising bubbles, and back into the tank. To get enough contact time with the bubble, these units can be many feet in height.

Air stone protein skimmers may be constructed as a DIY project from pvc pipes and fittings at low cost [1] [2] and with varying degrees of complexity [3].

While this method has been around for many years, many regard it as inefficient for larger systems or systems with large bio-loads.
[edit] Venturi

The premise behind these skimmers is that a venturi pump, or aspirator, can be used to introduce the bubbles into the water stream. The tank water is pumped through the venturi, in which fine bubbles are introduced, then enters the skimmer body. This method was popular due to its compact size and high efficiency but venturi designs are now more likely to be included in other skimmer designs rather than as a simple venturi design.
[edit] Counter-current flow systems
[edit] Aspirating: Pin-Wheel/Adrian-Wheel, Needle-Wheel, Mesh-Wheel

This basic concept is more correctly known as an aspirating skimmer, since some skimmer designs using an aspirator do not use a "Pin-Wheel"/"Adrian-Wheel" or "Needle-Wheel". "Pin-Wheel"/"Adrian-Wheel" describes the look of an impeller that consists of a disk with pins mounted perpendicular (90º) to the disc and parallel to the rotor. "Needle-Wheel" describes the look of an impeller that consists of a series of pins projecting out perpendicular to the rotor from a central axis. "Mesh-Wheel" describes the look of an impeller that consists of a mesh material attached to a plate or central axis on the rotor. The purpose of these modified impellers is to chop or shred the air that is introduced via a venturi apparatus or external air pump into very fine bubbles. The Mesh-Wheel design is fairly new and, while providing excellent results in the short term because of its ability to draw in more air and create finer bubbles with its thin cutting surfaces, it is still being developed and will likely continue to evolve over a few more years.

This style of protein skimmer has become very popular and is believed to be the most popular type of skimmer used with residential reef aquariums today. It has been particularly successful in smaller aquariums due to its usually compact size, ease of set up and use, and quiet operation. Since the pump is pushing a mixture of air and water, the power required to turn the rotor can be decreased and may result in a lower power requirement for that pump vs. the same pump with a different impeller when it is only pumping water.
[edit] Downdraft

The Downdraft skimmer is both a proprietary skimmer design and a style of protein skimmer that injects water under high pressure into tubes that have a foam or bubble generating mechanism and carry the air/water mixture down into the skimmer and into a separate chamber. The proprietary design is protected in the United States with patents and commercial skimmer products in the US are limited to that single company. Their design uses one or more tubes with plastic media such as bio balls inside to mix water under high pressure and air in the body of the skimmer resulting in foam that collects protein waste in a collection cup. This was one of the earlier high performance protein skimmer designs and large models were produced that saw success in large and public aquariums.
[edit] Beckett skimmer

The Beckett skimmer has some similarities to the downdraft skimmer but introduced a foam nozzle to produce the flow of air bubbles. The name Beckett comes from the patented foam nozzle developed and sold by the Beckett Corporation (United States), although similar foam nozzle designs are sold by other companies outside the United States (e.g. Sicce (Italy)). Instead of using the plastic media that is found in downdraft skimmer designs, the Beckett skimmer uses design concepts from previous generations of skimmers, specifically the downdraft skimmer and the venturi skimmer (the Beckett 1408 Foam Nozzle is a modified 4 port venturi) to produce a hybrid that is capable of using powerful pressure rated water pumps and quickly processing large amounts of aquarium water in a short period of time. Commercial Beckett skimmers come in single Beckett, dual Beckett, and quad Beckett designs. Well engineered Beckett skimmers are quiet and reliable but the powerful pumps used in larger Beckett skimmer designs can take up additional space, introduce additional noise, and use more electricity than less powerful pumps. Unlike the Downdraft and Spray Induction skimmers, Beckett skimmer designs are produced by a number of companies in the United States and elsewhere and are not known to be restricted by patents.
[edit] Spray Induction

This method is related to the downdraft, but uses a pump to power a spray nozzle, fixed a few inches above the water level. The spray action entraps and shreds the air in the base of the unit, which then rises to the collection chamber. In the United States, one company has patented the spray induction technology and the commercial product offerings are limited to that single company.
[edit] Recirculating Skimmer Designs

A recent trend is to change the method by which the skimmer is fed 'dirty' water from the aquarium as a means to recirculate water within the skimmer multiple times before it is returned to the sump or the aquarium. Aspirating pump skimmers are the most popular type of skimmer to use recirculating designs although other types of skimmers, such as Beckett skimmers are also available in recirculating versions. While there is a popular belief among some aquarist that this recirculation increases the dwell or contact time of the generated air bubbles within the skimmer there is no authoritative evidence that this is true. Each time water is recirculated within the skimmer any air bubbles in that water sample are destroyed and new bubbles are generated by the recirculating pump venturi apparatus so the air-water contact time begins again for these newly created bubbles. In non-recirculating skimmer designs, a skimmer has one inlet supplied by a pump that pulls water in from the aquarium and injects it with air into the skimmer and releasing the foam or air/water mix into the reaction chamber. With a recirculating design, the one inlet is usually driven by a separate feed pump, or in some cases may be gravity fed, to receive the dirty water to process, while the pump providing the foam or air/water mix into the reaction chamber is set up separately in a closed loop on the side of the skimmer. The recirculating pump pulls water out of the skimmer and injects air to generate the foam or air/water mix before returning it to the skimmer reaction chamber -- thus 'recirculating' it. The feed pump in a recirculating design typically injects a smaller amount of dirty water than co/counter-current designs. The separate feed pump allows easy control of the rate of water exchange through the skimmer and for many aquarists this is one of the important attractions of recirculating skimmer designs. Because the pump configuration of these skimmers is similar to that of aspirating pump skimmers, the power consumption advantages are also similar.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby sharkman121 » August 9th, 2010, 11:20 pm

i read this same info online yesterday, great post.

Keep em comin, ill add as i see fit as well.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby UML » August 10th, 2010, 9:12 pm

Two more questions:

What do you feed you saltwater fishes, where do you get it, quantity and price?

How do you quarantine/isolate new fishes before putting them in my tank? Do I have to set up another small aquarium with protein skimmer and chiller and all the equipment from my display tank or can they survive in water with some aeration? What minimum requirement would they need? How long do I quarantine them for?

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 10th, 2010, 10:13 pm

There are alot of marine fish food selling in petshops. (petshopboys and natures world in sando, Nu-image petshops both in atlantic plaza and valpark, funkypets, raj, satoo....... and d lists goes on and on) Some foods are also for freshwater fish. i buy like krill, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, veggie flakes and pellets. I interchange foods daily so they wont get accustomed to one type of food. (so the day you run out of one particular food, it has other foods for them to fall back on)

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 10th, 2010, 10:20 pm

Raj and santoo quarantine their fish for a min of 2wks in copper and anti-biotic medication so you can place in your tank one time. there are other guys that import fish and sell you it same day. thats when you have problems. medication aint cheap

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby UML » August 10th, 2010, 10:32 pm

check this out guys

http://www.lafishguys.com/

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby 2NR Smurf » August 11th, 2010, 12:35 am

Looking for someone to build me a wet/dry trickle filter for my freshwater tank...
anybody knows anybody? :?:

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 11th, 2010, 7:29 am

2NR Smurf wrote:Looking for someone to build me a wet/dry trickle filter for my freshwater tank...
anybody knows anybody? :?:




Why not just get a canister filter or you can use one of those pond filters. there are alot of DIY projects online

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Fishman » August 11th, 2010, 7:52 am

HondaB20B wrote:Raj and santoo quarantine their fish for a min of 2wks in copper and anti-biotic medication so you can place in your tank one time. there are other guys that import fish and sell you it same day. thats when you have problems. medication aint cheap



Even though they quarantine their fish its a good idea to still do a further quarantine just in case. This is just a preventative measure that I believe in as I have seen one fish bring down a whole tank already. Most of the time the two week period of medicating is fine to get rid of any disease or parasite but there is always that odd occasion so I prefer to err on the side of caution to not lose a lot of money already invested in fish.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Fishman » August 11th, 2010, 7:59 am

UML wrote:Two more questions:

What do you feed you saltwater fishes, where do you get it, quantity and price?

How do you quarantine/isolate new fishes before putting them in my tank? Do I have to set up another small aquarium with protein skimmer and chiller and all the equipment from my display tank or can they survive in water with some aeration? What minimum requirement would they need? How long do I quarantine them for?


My quarantine tank is a small 30 Gallon with a hang on the back filter. I use a powerhead for water circulation. Of course this may be too small depending on the size of fish that you quarantine so use your judgment. I quarantine for 4-6 weeks and I do not treat for anything. This is more of an observation period to see if there is anything wrong with the fish.

If the fish shows any signs of disease then i treat. If not it goes into the display tank.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby UML » August 11th, 2010, 8:05 am

Fishman wrote:
UML wrote:Two more questions:

What do you feed you saltwater fishes, where do you get it, quantity and price?

How do you quarantine/isolate new fishes before putting them in my tank? Do I have to set up another small aquarium with protein skimmer and chiller and all the equipment from my display tank or can they survive in water with some aeration? What minimum requirement would they need? How long do I quarantine them for?


My quarantine tank is a small 30 Gallon with a hang on the back filter. I use a powerhead for water circulation. Of course this may be too small depending on the size of fish that you quarantine so use your judgment. I quarantine for 4-6 weeks and I do not treat for anything. This is more of an observation period to see if there is anything wrong with the fish.

If the fish shows any signs of disease then i treat. If not it goes into the display tank.


no skimmer necessary? :?

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby Fishman » August 11th, 2010, 8:17 am

UML wrote:
Fishman wrote:
UML wrote:Two more questions:

What do you feed you saltwater fishes, where do you get it, quantity and price?

How do you quarantine/isolate new fishes before putting them in my tank? Do I have to set up another small aquarium with protein skimmer and chiller and all the equipment from my display tank or can they survive in water with some aeration? What minimum requirement would they need? How long do I quarantine them for?


My quarantine tank is a small 30 Gallon with a hang on the back filter. I use a powerhead for water circulation. Of course this may be too small depending on the size of fish that you quarantine so use your judgment. I quarantine for 4-6 weeks and I do not treat for anything. This is more of an observation period to see if there is anything wrong with the fish.

If the fish shows any signs of disease then i treat. If not it goes into the display tank.


no skimmer necessary? :?


Nope. If you have one it does not hurt, but not necessary. I do a 10% water change every one to two weeks on a quarantine aquarium which keeps the water quality good. Also test for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates to do water changes as necessary. Ive been quarantining my fish with this process for a long time and have never had a problem.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby ryan99tt » August 11th, 2010, 3:00 pm

yup, chillers are very expensive...got a friend to ship a 1/2 hp oceaic for me, costing me TT$5600....

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby 2NR Smurf » August 11th, 2010, 5:46 pm

HondaB20B wrote:
2NR Smurf wrote:Looking for someone to build me a wet/dry trickle filter for my freshwater tank...
anybody knows anybody? :?:




Why not just get a canister filter or you can use one of those pond filters. there are alot of DIY projects online


The bio-load is going to be kinda heavy...and i find canister filters just dont hold the amount of bacteria that wet/drys do...

seeing some vids on youtube here...it not looking too difficult...DIY really soundin like a plan

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 11th, 2010, 9:33 pm

2NR Smurf wrote: The bio-load is going to be kinda heavy...and i find canister filters just dont hold the amount of bacteria that wet/drys do...

seeing some vids on youtube here...it not looking too difficult...DIY really soundin like a plan


i made one with a pigtail bucket (5gal) and use pvc fittings on the top and bottom. i put in bioballs, mesh, filterfloss, charcoal and some rocks. once you have a good pump to turn the tank over multiple times per/hr, you should be good.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 11th, 2010, 10:55 pm

ryan99tt wrote:yup, chillers are very expensive...got a friend to ship a 1/2 hp oceaic for me, costing me TT$5600....



that 5600, is that just the cost to purchase? Or is that shipping/handling. duties and d license inclusive.

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 11th, 2010, 11:46 pm

ok, now check. most places it for about 900US. which is about 5600TT

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby AGENT RORO » August 12th, 2010, 12:01 am

HondaB20B wrote:ok, now check. most places it for about 900US. which is about 5600TT

Eh, More bottles or wah? :lol: :|

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby UML » August 12th, 2010, 11:42 am

BTW wah going on with the saltwater tank in the petshop/agristore upstairs in Gulf?

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby ryan99tt » August 12th, 2010, 11:43 am

HondaB20B, daz d cost to ship and everything...

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 12th, 2010, 12:37 pm

ryan99tt wrote:HondaB20B, daz d cost to ship and everything...




That not right?? :?
ah 1/2 hp in that brand costing US900 or TT5600. give or take a few $$$. its weight is about 30-40lbs, d unit is about L 15.75 x W 20.63 x H 18.88, so d box ah bit bigger.
you have contact with laparkan, fedex or something? link me up nah 8-) 8-) 8-)

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby ryan99tt » August 12th, 2010, 3:13 pm

yea boi, he bringing it down in ah container for me but dat already shipped...i guh talk to him and see if he guh do it fuh yuh...

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 12th, 2010, 9:18 pm

ryan99tt wrote:yea boi, he bringing it down in ah container for me but dat already shipped...i guh talk to him and see if he guh do it fuh yuh...



I need friends like dat yes :lol: :lol:


i have friends like RORO and smalls.

:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby AGENT RORO » August 12th, 2010, 9:26 pm

HondaB20B wrote:
ryan99tt wrote:yea boi, he bringing it down in ah container for me but dat already shipped...i guh talk to him and see if he guh do it fuh yuh...



I need friends like dat yes :lol: :lol:


i have friends like RORO and smalls.

:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby sharkman121 » August 12th, 2010, 9:37 pm

cycling,cycling,cycling,cycling,cycling,cycling,cycling,cycling tank :|

empty aquarium gettin to me

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Re: Trinituner Fish Keepers, Aquarists & Aquascapers...

Postby HondaB20B » August 12th, 2010, 10:10 pm

hahahah..................... some people have rock gardens, you have a rock aquarium

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