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Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 23rd, 2015, 7:33 pm

I have 6 or 7 in my sump over 8 mths now.
I had over 15 mollies live in one of my saltwater tubs for over 2 years. They lived great with my clownfish. the benefits are they eat algae and its a good fish to start your cycle. Its not like a damsel that kills others.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 23rd, 2015, 7:58 pm

Still havent gotten that damsel out... and I cld use a few mollies then... would they do well in the main display too?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 23rd, 2015, 8:14 pm

kyhamil wrote:Still havent gotten that damsel out... and I cld use a few mollies then... would they do well in the main display too?



If you want but then it would look rather strange and spoil the beauty. Even a lil child might say that mollies don't swim in the buccoo reef............... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Mine good in my sump eating the algae around my frags. I have 4 big tangs that deal with algae in my main tank. Have not had an algae outbreak in about 3 yrs.......knock on wood. And I aint use RowaPhos in way over a year.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 23rd, 2015, 8:15 pm

Then again, gopaul luck may not be seepaul luck........LOL

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 23rd, 2015, 8:29 pm

My tang doesnt eat my algae... or he is not enough to do it alone...

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 24th, 2015, 7:31 am

kyhamil wrote:My tang doesnt eat my algae... or he is not enough to do it alone...


Do you feed your tang nori? Different tangs eat different types of algae and it has a lot to do with what region they came from and the shape of their mouth. For example the yellow tang which is from Hawaii and the blue tang is from Fiji, Indonesia. And I have seen it before where their eating habbits are different. My powder brown (indian ocean) eats certain different algae on the glass that the other three wont really eat. I know some guys that have tangs that wont even touch the nori the put in the tank for them. All 4 eat it like crazy. that don't last too long. And to show how different tangs really eat different, all 4 will eat the green nori, 1 only will eat the red if I put it, and nobody will try the purple. 2 may barely pick at it and it will just remain there. So all I buy is the green one now. Always try to give your fish all different types of food. don't ever let them get dependent on the pellets. The day you run out of it, they will never eat anything new.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 24th, 2015, 9:54 am

^ gd to know... I've neber tried nori... I only have 1yellow tang atm... id like to get a cple more fish soon doh...

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 24th, 2015, 10:10 am

you can also get an algae blenny the only bad thing is when the lil algae is gone they usually begin to starve. They hardly eat pellets. you cant really add more tangs in your size tank unless they are like 1". The only tangs raj bring in that size are hippo tangs and they grow fast.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 24th, 2015, 10:29 am

Hippo tang (dory) doesn't usually have parasites and are harder to keep?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 24th, 2015, 10:30 am

Lmao... I think a blenny wikl do great in my tank I always complain about algae cuz its in the garage

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 24th, 2015, 10:48 am

yeah but when the algae gone, what you would do

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 24th, 2015, 10:52 am

Do research on what causes most parasites and increase in diseases................. its mainly water quality and health of your livestock. All fish can get sick easy

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 24th, 2015, 11:20 am

Idk probly place him in d sump for a cpl months

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 24th, 2015, 11:21 am

Hey I lost raj number... can any1 give me back it

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » May 24th, 2015, 11:44 am

Raj: 7448768

Anyone else ever tried feeding garlic or soaking their food in garlic extract? I did it some time ago when I saw some ich in the tank almost all the fish had ich and were looking far less healthy.
I soaked some pellets in fresh garlic extract fed them that for about 2 days and all the ich was gone. Really interesting. Also dosed Kent marine - marine C daily which would've helped to some extent.
I still feel them the garlic soaked pellets a couple times a week to help with immunity and still dose the marine C.
Just some experience I had battling ich thought id share.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 24th, 2015, 9:37 pm

I have had fish with ich in the past and tried all sorts of meds (ich away, ich be gone, Kordons ich guard.....and others) and spend real money in my first 75gal saltwater tank. I lost lots of fish and spent lots of money on meds. When I set up my present 250gal reef 4yrs ago, during the 5-6th mth I think, my hippo tang and some other fish got ich. I went into panic mode and that's when I decided to go with the Kordons ich guard again, When I checked it, a bottle at the time was $95TT and for my volume of water, it would only last 3 days. The course of treatment is to go on for 21days and if the ich was still visible, go another 21days. I even called the co to get better advice. Every week, I had to do 50gal water changes. I decided I wasn't spending that kinda money. So I went the normal way everybody tells you. I changed out 50gal of water every 3 days for 2wks and fed my fish well. I still have some of the same fish from inception. I have never even run a UV sterilizer or add any kind of meds for fish in this tank. Every once in a while when the hippo is stressed, you might see some lil spots but never on the rest of the fish. They always say that you always have ich in your system. Its just any time your fish under stress, they are likely to get it.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 24th, 2015, 9:58 pm

Actually raj sells the garlic spectrum that you can use. It works very good to boost your fishes immune system. Use of a skunk cleaner shrimp to clean and remove parasites is actually a myth. Scientists opened up 100 shrimp that were have said removed parasites from infected fish and not even one shrimp had the ich parasite in its stomach.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 25th, 2015, 2:42 pm

Good read.................


Stress is present in the lives of all living things and is the force that brings about physical change and adjustment. Small amounts of stress can be harmless or even beneficial, but high levels of stress or prolonged periods of stress can create severe health problems. Many people are aware of stress in their own lives and can name many of the causes as well as possible treatments. However, the stress that affects fish is different and much more widespread.
The nature of keeping aquatic species in confined environments generates many stresses that are unique to aquarium fish. To be successful in keeping healthy aquarium fish, you need to know what causes stress in fish as well as how to prevent it. Elevated stress levels are at the root of most health problems in fish and this article will help identify the causes of stress and give recommendations for treatment.

What is stress?
Stress is any condition that causes physical or mental discomfort that results in the release of stress-related hormones or results in specific physiological responses. For example, stressful events will cause an increase in heart rate, blood pressure, increased blood sugar, and the release of cortisol. Stress can be physical, psychological, or environmental. Stress can either be short and sudden, or long and chronic. Mild, short-term stress has few serious health effects, but long-term stress or severe, short-term stress contribute to many of the illnesses and deaths in aquarium fish.

The effect stress has on a fish's health
Short-term stress will cause an increase in heart rate, blood pressure, and respiration. The fish is reacting much as we do with the fight or flight mode. The fish can only maintain these altered states for a short period of time and then they will adapt or the stress will become chronic. Stress is accompanied by the release of the hormone cortisol, which is responsible for many of the negative health effects associated with stress. In addition to having a negative effect on growth, reproduction, and digestion, chronic stress will also lower the ability of the immune system to respond effectively and fully. This lowered immune response is what allows parasites, bacteria, and fungi to infect a stressed fish and cause disease and death.

The causes of stress
There are dozens of potential stresses to fish, but some of the more common causes are:



•Elevated ammonia
•Elevated nitrate
•Improper pH level
•Fluctuations in temperature
•Improper salinity
•Low oxygen levels
•Harassment from other fish
•Lack of hiding places
•Inadequate tank size
•Overstocking of tank
•Medications and water treatments
•Improper nutrition
•Disturbance of the tank
•Harvesting and shipping of fish
•Lack of enough fish to provide schooling


Elevated levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate all create deterioration in fish health due to stress. High levels can cause severe stress, whereas slightly elevated levels can contribute to chronic stress.

pH levels that change abruptly cause acute stress and continually elevated or lowered pH levels can cause chronic stress. Many fish adapt to long-term changes, but there are limits. pH changes of more than 1.5 points below or above recommended levels are going to have a negative effect over time and should never be considered acceptable.

Temperature fluctuations are a much underappreciated stressor of fish. Most tropical freshwater and marine fish do not tolerate temperature changes very well. Many tanks that are not set up properly will have over the recommended maximum of one degree of temperature fluctuation in a 24-hour period due to room temperature, lights, and equipment. The daily fluctuations will create chronic stress as will having a too low or too high of a temperature in the tank for the species of fish present.

Wild fish live within very specific salinity levels (levels of salt in the water). Their bodies work hard to maintain the osmotic gradient between themselves and their environment. If their environmental salinity is not specific to their needs and is not held at a steady level, they have to work harder to maintain their osmotic gradient, which generates chronic stress.

Oxygen levels that are below recommended levels can cause fish to 'breathe' faster than optimum and this can result in chronic stress. Obviously, very low oxygen levels can lead to severe short-term stress and death.

Harassment from other fish and lack of hiding spaces go hand in hand. There should be two suitable hiding spaces for every fish in the tank, otherwise, there are going to be fish that are stressed and bullied. Remember that unlike their environment in the wild, these fish are confined and cannot get away from aggressors. Aggression is a very real problem in many tanks that leads to many injuries, infections, and death.

Overstocking of the tank is a common problem that contributes to almost all of the stresses in the above list, from water pollution to oxygen depletion to harassment. Do not overstock your tanks. If you want to stress your fish, put too many in the tank and it will happen every time.

If you add something to the water to treat a disease or water condition, be aware that it can be stressful to your fish. Try to avoid treating the water if at all possible and always use a quarantine or treatment tank. Copper is an excellent treatment for ich or velvet, but it can be toxic and stressful to fish. Of course, using it is much better than letting a fish die from velvet, but it should never be used in a tank with healthy fish.

Improper nutrition is also a commonly overlooked stressor of fish. Many fish can live on minimal nutrition with old or stale flake foods, but this poor nutrition is a chronic stress. A variety of well-preserved dry foods as well as freeze-dried, fresh, and frozen foods specifically designed for individual species are necessary to prevent chronic nutritional stress.

Disturbing the tank through banging on the glass, constantly netting fish, or rearranging décor stresses fish and should be kept to the necessary minimum.

There is probably nothing that stresses fish more than bringing them from the wild or an aquaculture pond through the wholesaler to your home. In just a few days, the fish will be captured, held, packaged, shipped, sorted, handled, packaged again, and so on through the collector, exporter, importer, wholesaler, and retailer to your tank. Throughout this process they may be exposed to drastic changes in temperature, ammonia, pH, salinity, diet, medications etc. They often do not eat and arrive at your tank completely stressed. If they are not handled very carefully and are not placed in an optimum environment, their stress is going to continue and they will get sick and die. The reason that this stress is listed last is not because it is the least important, but because it is the most significant. You need to understand all the stress factors and how to eliminate them because these fish that arrive at your tank have been exposed to all of the listed stresses. The unfortunate truth is that the majority of fish mortalities occur at or near the time of entering a new tank and only through an appreciation of stress and its effect on fish can this problem be prevented.

How you eliminate stress
While it is impossible to eliminate all stress, we fortunately have the ability to limit or prevent many of the causes. Acute stress is more obvious and needs to be addressed very quickly. Chronic stress is often not visible. It can take weeks and months to develop. Your fish may appear to be doing fine, until one day one gets sick and dies, and then a few weeks later another one does and so on. If you have fish that are getting sick and dying, there is probably a source of stress on them that needs to be identified and remedied. The other big source of stress is bringing new fish into your aquarium. Buy only from the most reputable sources that move the fish in the most careful and humane manner. Acclimate your new fish properly, use a quarantine tank, and make sure your new fish are fed appropriately. Spend extra time on the new fish and be as careful as you can. Taking a little time here can make all the difference in breaking the chronic stress cycle and keeping these fish healthy and disease free.

Stress is one of the most critical factors in fish health. Only by understanding the effects that stress has on fish, as well as being able to identify and prevent common stresses, can we eliminate this problem. As aquarists, we need to be responsible for the health and welfare of all of our fish. Provide the highest quality water, nutrition, and suitable tank environment. Introduce new fish carefully and always use a quarantine or treatment tank when necessary. If we work hard to reduce the stress in our fish, we can virtually eliminate disease and health problems in our aquarium.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 25th, 2015, 2:46 pm

Ich, short for Ichthyophthirius (pronounced "ick") is an external parasite often referred to as "white spot disease." Aquarium fish develop Ich due to stress or improper aquarium conditions. Most often, it is brought on by fluctuating aquarium temperatures.
The symptoms of Ich can start with fish holding their fins close to their body. Progressive symptoms include fish hanging at the surface, as though it's hard to breathe, or fish trying to scratch themselves on rocks. Eventually, the parasites grow large enough to be easily visible, and fish appear to be "salted." The white spots may first appear on fins or gills but can eventually cover the entire body.

Quick treatment is required to save the fish. However, prevention, in the way of proper fish husbandry including stable water temperatures, is much easier.




Saltwater ich (ick), or "white spot disease" is one of the most common diseases that infect marine fish in home aquariums. It is caused by Cryptocaryon irritans, and is similar to freshwater ich. Infection with Cryptocaryon is often confused with another common saltwater disease called Amyloodinium (velvet). Therefore, proper identification is necessary for correct treatment and prevention of this disease.
What is Cryptocaryon?
Ich, short for Ichthyophthirius (pronounced "ick") is an external parasite often referred to as "white spot disease." Aquarium fish develop Ich due to stress or improper aquarium conditions. Most often, it is brought on by fluctuating aquarium temperatures.
The symptoms of Ich can start with fish holding their fins close to their body. Progressive symptoms include fish hanging at the surface, as though it's hard to breathe, or fish trying to scratch themselves on rocks. Eventually, the parasites grow large enough to be easily visible, and fish appear to be "salted." The white spots may first appear on fins or gills but can eventually cover the entire body.

Quick treatment is required to save the fish. However, prevention, in the way of proper fish husbandry including stable water temperatures, is much easier.

Cryptocaryon is a fully ciliated protozoan that is present in all saltwater environments. It is prevalent in marine aquariums, aquaculture ponds, and in import and wholesale holding environments. This widespread protozoan penetrates the skin and gills of the fish. Depending on the immune status of the fish, it can cause symptoms as mild as just a few small white spots to more severe symptoms including severe irritation, loss of appetite, lethargy, severe respiratory distress, and death.
Why do fish get Cryptocaryon?
Most wild fish are exposed to low levels of this parasite but are able to effectively fight off the infection without becoming seriously ill. In contrast, due to a relatively small volume of water and a concentrated population of fish, the number of Cryptocaryon has the opportunity to explode in the home aquarium. High levels of stress caused by poor water conditions, improper diet, or aggression from existing tank mates can further aggravate the situation. As a result, even low, non-problematic numbers of Cryptocaryon protozoan can rapidly cause serious infections.

Identifying Cryptocaryon
Cryptocaryon is not too difficult to identify because of the characteristic white spots. The white spots are 0.5-2.0 mm in size and have a tendency to appear first on the pectoral fins. As a result, infected fish may swim with folded or clamped fins. As the disease progresses, the spots will become more wide spread and the eyes of the infected fish may become cloudy. A secondary fungal infection may also appear on the skin. If the infection is concentrated in the gills or is in the early stages, the fish may show irritation, respiratory distress, and lethargy without having any visual spots.

Treating Cryptocaryon
The treatment for Cryptocaryon is fairly straightforward provided the cause of the stress is corrected. By far, the most popular and effective treatment is copper. There are a variety of copper products available for use in the home aquarium. These copper-based medications will provide proper treatment, if used at the correct dose. Even at very low amounts, copper is very toxic to invertebrates and can never be used in reef aquariums or aquariums with invertebrates. To ensure proper treatment, move the infected fish to a bare bottomed quarantine or treatment tank. It is essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions and use a copper test kit to monitor and maintain therapeutic levels of copper. Other methods that are sometimes used to control both freshwater and marine ich are high wattage UV sterilizers and diatom filters. The very fine diatom filters can help strain Cryptocaryon out of the water during its free-floating stage. A properly sized UV sterilizer will also kill the free-floating Cryptocaryon.

Preventing Cryptocaryon
The old saying that "prevention is the best form of medicine" is very true of all marine disease. It is especially true of Cryptocaryon. All new fish should be placed in a quarantine tank for at least ten days to make sure they are eating, free of disease, and are able to recuperate in a stress-free environment. Properly treat any sick fish before introducing them to the main display aquarium. Keep in mind that the quarantine tank must be clean, appropriately sized with efficient filtration, and have proper water parameters. Provide adequate hiding places to further decrease fish stress.

Remember, stress is the enemy of fish health. Cryptocaryon will target stressed fish with lowered immune systems. Reduce fish stress to decrease disease incidence. Good husbandry practices such as maintaining water quality, correct nutrition, stable temperature, and meeting habitat requirements contribute to the overall health of your aquarium inhabitants.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » May 26th, 2015, 8:55 am

Feel like I real a whole text book yes lol but a good read though didn't know a lot of that stuff. I'll check Raj for that garlic extract hate grating up that garlic.

On another note, I bought a sun coral from Raj last weekend and didn't open up yet anyone has experience with these? Salinity, alk, cal everything within range. The only thing I suspect is maybe too much light or not enough flow didn't get to read up any other forums just thought I'd ask here. Any thoughts?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 26th, 2015, 9:21 am

Lol yeah I read more here than at school... and im a teacher

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 26th, 2015, 11:34 am

[quote="greenlime100"]Feel like I real a whole text book yes lol but a good read though didn't know a lot of that stuff. I'll check Raj for that garlic extract hate grating up that garlic.
quote]


http://www.amazon.com/Kent-Marine-Garli ... rlic+guard

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-GarlicGua ... rlic+guard

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 26th, 2015, 1:48 pm

Vitamin C is also good for corals & fish

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » May 27th, 2015, 12:15 am

Yup I dose vitamin C in my tank every other day.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby UML » May 31st, 2015, 6:47 am

Didn't know about vitamin c

Will do some reading on it.

1433069198003.jpg


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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 31st, 2015, 8:43 am

greenlime100 wrote:Yup I dose vitamin C in my tank every other day.



I have been dosing close to a year maybe. I dose every day actually.
Whatever is recommended every other day I jus cut it in half. You really cant dose too much of it. Health wise my fish look better and if they get any kind of scratches from rocks it has healed way faster than before. Sometimes when those tangs have their lil squabbles, fins get slashed and in no time they are healed. That and feeding them........... all my fish are real pigs. I feed them whole day :mrgreen: :mrgreen:



WOW............forgot what a protein skimmer looks like. :roll: :roll:

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » May 31st, 2015, 10:06 am

Yeah its recommended to dose it everyday. I don't know if its just me but I feel like since I started dosing that last year sometime they eat a lot more and are notably more active in the tank. And yeah you can see the difference in terms of recovery and healing even ich.

Was reading up on the garlic soak, apparently freshly ground garlic is better than the bottled soak so I guess I'll just stick to grating up the garlic lol.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » May 31st, 2015, 10:38 am

How do you do the garlic soak?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 31st, 2015, 10:52 am

[quote="greenlime100"]Yeah its recommended to dose it everyday. [color=#BF0000]I don't know if its just me but I feel like since I started dosing that last year sometime they eat a lot more and are notably more active in the tank.[/color] And yeah you can see the difference in terms of recovery and healing even ich.

quote]


Yup it true. I keep feeding my fish whole day once I home

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » May 31st, 2015, 10:55 am

I aint think Raj bring in Garlic food in a bit. I must bring in one day or see when he bringing again. Its a taste they have to acquire. Some fish take long to adjust to liking it. Mine was the same

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