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:: The official TOOLS thread ::

this is how we do it.......

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Ted_v2
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » April 12th, 2014, 6:26 am

^ every time I'm there I always buy something I don't need. Pretty much one of the best places in south. That's where I got the rachet and Powerbar

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » April 12th, 2014, 10:57 am

Image

Image

so i hit a lil design flaw.....when the end of the bolt is welded onto the jaw....it gets stuck when trying to close it....its because the screw needs to turn to push forward but since its welded it cant turn freely

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby 3stagevtec » April 12th, 2014, 12:01 pm

The jaw you speak of is not shown in the pics? If you are attaching a moving plate / jaw to those threaded rods, you will need to make the end able to swivel.. similar to how the G clamp is designed..

A guide would also be recommended so the moving plates remain square when tightening,.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby [X]~Outlaw » April 12th, 2014, 12:06 pm

Hey X_Factor let me give you a little help with the design of your vise.

1. What you want is one fixed jaw and one moveable jaw
2. As you realized, you cannot fix the screw to the moveable jaw for obvious reasons
3. You need to design your bottom plate with a mechanism for the moveable jaw to slide on. This can be in the form of dovetail ways, t-slots or the simplest solution that requires no complex machining is steel rails.

Below are the vises I use in my shop for different jobs.

This vise I use for very quick jobs that do not require a lot of precision. This is the type of vise you are trying to design.



Image

As you see the screw is not attached to the moveable jaw
Image

The moveable jaw is attached to a brass T-Nut that slides within a T-Slot the length of the base
Image

Now the reason I do not use this for work requiring a high degree of precision is this. Because of the design of the moveable jaw and screw arrangement, when your work is clamped tight the screw pushes the moveable jaw up a bit and in turn moves the work up as well (on the side of the moveable jaw). This most likely will not be an issues for you because of the nature of your work.

Below are the two vises I use for very precise work.

These are commonly referred to as "screw less" vises because they don't have a screw driving the moveable jaw. The jaws slide freely back and forth. The screw on the moveable jaw is set at an angle and is only used to tighten the jaw against the work (usually just a half turn does the trick). Since this screw is set at an angle it pushes the moveable jaw down and in turn the work is pulled down together with it. The end result is that your work is held perfectly level.

This is how they are used in practice:

1. Hold the work between your jaws.
2. Slide the moveable jaw up to your work (resting on your parallels if required)
3. Tighten the screw on the moveable jaw
4. If needed gently tap the end of the work on the side of the moveable jaw to ensure it is in fact seated level.

I use this for small delicate work. The jaw plates are removable and can be machine for a specific job.
Image

Image

This vise is what I use for holding bigger jobs. The jaws are not replaceable and are ground to 0.0002" square and flatness.

Image

Vises are just one way to hold work and most times my work is held with a jig made for the job or cam clamps that screw into the threaded holes in my mill's work plate, this allows me infinite number of setups.

Keep us posted with your design.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby 1UZFE » April 12th, 2014, 1:21 pm

Fellas i need to get a new tool set for my car.
Tool set should have socet set and screw driver set.
Where can i get this at a resonable price?
Thanks.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby supercharged turbo » April 12th, 2014, 2:48 pm

Just came back from Allied Home Centre in sando.Would recommend you go there.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » April 12th, 2014, 7:50 pm

so i got a little 220v stick welder borrow (100amp max) ....it worked well enough

Image

Image

so i needed to complete the vise/clamp project so i can start this project
it held the end cap firmly in place with no movement..... so i can drill a 7/16 hole
and then run a 1/4" npt tap

Image

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby 1UZFE » April 12th, 2014, 9:07 pm

supercharged turbo wrote:Just came back from Allied Home Centre in sando.Would recommend you go there.

Thanks bro..

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » April 20th, 2014, 6:26 pm

Any recommendations for a mig welder.

Purpose -
Welding of I beams for roof.
Welding of small body works.
Welding of possible roll cages.
Custom engine mounts.

For those tasks above a mig welder would be able to work?
Or would a arc welder be needed.
I'm seeing them ranging from 16-2500$ for a Lincoln

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby 3stagevtec » April 20th, 2014, 7:15 pm

sound boy 64 wrote:Any recommendations for a mig welder.

Purpose -
Welding of I beams for roof.
Welding of small body works.
Welding of possible roll cages.
Custom engine mounts.

For those tasks above a mig welder would be able to work?
Or would a arc welder be needed.
I'm seeing them ranging from 16-2500$ for a Lincoln


180A Lincoln MIG can work. Use flux core welding for the heavier gauge materials (I beam, engine mounts etc) and MIG for body work etc.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » April 20th, 2014, 7:19 pm

Welded up a couple cable reels today.

Arc welder is more powerful and suited to ibeam and heavier work.
More flexible is using in physically out of the way places.

Mig with co2 is more suited for thin metal like autobody.

Those cheap mig welders tend to be extremely low power.

I started welding with a 180amp mig welder and it is a good starting power.
I recently bought a chinese 160amp inverter arc welder and it is working good so far.
Can weld 1/8 steel easily. Learning to strike arc required some technique but not hard.
This inverter welder is literally the size of a shoe box.
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » April 20th, 2014, 8:17 pm

If I can recall properly I saw it for 2200$ for a 110 v 180A Lincoln
There's the 160a for less

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » April 20th, 2014, 8:25 pm

a 110v mig machine would never do 180a,
they normally max out at 140a which is barely good enough for rhs.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » April 20th, 2014, 9:37 pm

Well I guess I saw wrong.

Will go back and take pictures this time.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » April 21st, 2014, 5:37 am

a 180a mig welder will cost $8k or there about.

you can get the 160a inverter stick welder for $1200 locally

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Sanctifier » April 21st, 2014, 7:30 am

sound boy 64 wrote:Welding of I beams for roof.
Welding of small body works.
Welding of possible roll cages.
Custom engine mounts.
IMHO you need a VERY good quality dual-voltage unit (at a MINIMUM) if you want to weld a roll-cage, I-beams or engine mounts properly.

USA Weld has a dual-voltage HTP welder that is hard to beat for value for money.
The output @ 110-volts = 140A... and @ 220-volts = 160A... allowing it to weld "light gauge sheet metal to 5/16" steel".
They have one of the best wire-feed mechanisms in the business (to prevent "bird-nesting") and the US $1,300 "Sale" price + FREE Shipping in USA (normally retails @ US $1,800) is pretty good these days.

Link--> HTP 160DV MIG.

BTW I bought their largest 220-volt HTP 2400 unit a few years ago. That one will weld almost anything. 8-)

My $0.02¢

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby 3stagevtec » April 21st, 2014, 7:47 am

Dansteel had the 220V 180A for around $6xxx last I saw.. that was a really good price!

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby 3stagevtec » April 21st, 2014, 7:48 am

pugboy wrote:Welded up a couple cable reels today.

Arc welder is more powerful and suited to ibeam and heavier work.
More flexible is using in physically out of the way places.

Mig with co2 is more suited for thin metal like autobody.

Those cheap mig welders tend to be extremely low power.

I started welding with a 180amp mig welder and it is a good starting power.
I recently bought a chinese 160amp inverter arc welder and it is working good so far.
Can weld 1/8 steel easily. Learning to strike arc required some technique but not hard.
This inverter welder is literally the size of a shoe box.


Is that cable for the welding plant? 6mm square wire?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Firewall » April 21st, 2014, 12:28 pm

Hey...

Anybody know where I could get some 5mm aluminum or steel bent into a shape?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » April 21st, 2014, 1:18 pm

what kinda shape?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Firewall » April 21st, 2014, 1:37 pm

Excuse the high precision sketch, but pretty much this shape. Don't really want to build a brake if I can avoid it
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » April 21st, 2014, 1:48 pm

Tbh i am not sure but i got the cable from an electrical place and they sized it for me.
It is fairly thick and a pia hence the reels.

3stagevtec wrote:
pugboy wrote:Welded up a couple cable reels today.

Arc welder is more powerful and suited to ibeam and heavier work.
More flexible is using in physically out of the way places.

Mig with co2 is more suited for thin metal like autobody.

Those cheap mig welders tend to be extremely low power.

I started welding with a 180amp mig welder and it is a good starting power.
I recently bought a chinese 160amp inverter arc welder and it is working good so far.
Can weld 1/8 steel easily. Learning to strike arc required some technique but not hard.
This inverter welder is literally the size of a shoe box.


Is that cable for the welding plant? 6mm square wire?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » April 22nd, 2014, 6:25 pm

latest contraption........

Image

Image

Image


finally i can have some order to sockets all over the place!!
Image

been lookin for this for sooooo long....it can be used by ur fingers or a 1/4" ratchet
Image

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Strugglerzinc » April 22nd, 2014, 7:37 pm

What is that contraption? Portable air?

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Firewall
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Firewall » April 22nd, 2014, 7:41 pm

So pretty much this.....but with a higher degree of accuracy and repeatability.

Anyone?
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » April 22nd, 2014, 8:01 pm

Strugglerzinc wrote:What is that contraption? Portable air?


DIY injector cleaner!!

was gonna order the OTC injector cleaner but it was sold out
saw the diy version off youtube....didnt cost much to build
about 65USD

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » April 22nd, 2014, 8:38 pm

X, you can build one of those air cannons,
same type of construction, using large air tank exiting to smaller bore for more pressure/speed

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby X_Factor » April 22nd, 2014, 8:41 pm

doh give me ideas now....

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Xplode » April 23rd, 2014, 8:36 am

Xplode wrote:
dirtyjames wrote:
dirtyjames wrote:Where can I find this to buy?

Image


used this many times $60 TTD for the oil filter tool and $150TTD for the short stubby double headed 1/2'' & 3/8'' ratchet ,"it's so cute and very strong" :lol: pm if you need one heading Miami month end,always buy a next set,only good for Fram PH3593A ,med. and large size oil filters not the small PH6607 Tiida/Almera



Got this for my Easter holidays in Ft. Lauderdale Sears and Walmart

Drill bit set & screw driver kit

Fram adjustable oil filter wrench @ "dirtyjames " :wink:

10 quart oil drain container

20v black & decker matrix with jig saw attachment , real power

clean and rinse washer nozzle

Schumacher 400 amps jump starter and Battery charger

some Mechanix gloves mpact & a craftsman
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Rovin » April 23rd, 2014, 10:36 am

pugboy wrote:Tbh i am not sure but i got the cable from an electrical place and they sized it for me.
It is fairly thick and a pia hence the reels.

3stagevtec wrote:
pugboy wrote:Welded up a couple cable reels today.

Arc welder is more powerful and suited to ibeam and heavier work.
More flexible is using in physically out of the way places.

Mig with co2 is more suited for thin metal like autobody.

Those cheap mig welders tend to be extremely low power.

I started welding with a 180amp mig welder and it is a good starting power.
I recently bought a chinese 160amp inverter arc welder and it is working good so far.
Can weld 1/8 steel easily. Learning to strike arc required some technique but not hard.
This inverter welder is literally the size of a shoe box.


Is that cable for the welding plant? 6mm square wire?



to me that looking 4 square , i have 6sq 80ft extension & its about a garden hose size thick

according to several electricians & electrical places ppl i spoke to 10sq is really what welders shud be using but for portability\light weight on d job when u have about 200ft+ runs welders choose to go 4sq , also cost is a big factor for some ppl , to be on d safer side i still went 6sq ...

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