Water pump

[Defiant]

recently installed a 1HP GOULDS pump with 30/50 switch and a 2gallon pressure tank.........the tank is way to small for the pump............ i know, when they say a 2gl tank its really .6 gallon of water the tank accutally holds (the rest is air this pressure should be set 2PSI lower than your cut in pressure) so every time you use .6 gallon of water the tank empties and the pump trips on.......this is bad for the motor espacially while bathing the .6 gallon from the tank empties quickly.........avg 12-15seconds.........so my pump trips on and of being a 1HP MOTOR........ i need to maintain a flow rate of 24gpm.......... so fellars when choosing a pump bigger isnt always better............i will be supplying water to 5 full baths, plus........kitchen etc......so i wanna convert my 1HP goulds pump to run like a smart head........ by using a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) and moving the pressure switch from the pump, installing it in front of the PRV............i know i can just put a smart head unit on it............but i want to try another way..........will be updating........

I know you already bought your fancy valve, but wouldn't a larger tank cut your cycle times down?. Your pump response in filling the small tank while in use would cause it to cycle fast, because unless you open all 5 showers to max that pump once running will go past 30psi and hence the issue. So please do update us to how the unit you bought works out.

[daron]

$70usd or TTD eq

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CYCLE-STOP-VAL ... ctupt=true

it is a 60psi version, so you need a 60psi cutoff pressure switch i think.
you still need a pressure tank but can use the smallest one, it will be stressed less as less on/off cycles
It has to be installed before the pressure tank, ie between the pump and the pressure tank.

it does run the pump a little more like a smarthead but it throttles the volume pressure at 60psi max so pump will be running in a steady state with less current load than a pump running with full bore volume flow.


Cycle stop valves are great for installs with many users/bathrooms where a large pressure tank would have to be used
however pressure tank prices go up exponentially.

btw I have an extra one to sell at online price if you interested.
Rotoplastics is the agent but might be twice the price.

also if you used a 40/60 pressure switch you might get better results as with a 50psi cutoff that big pump will run up to 50 fast.

Asking price, does this require a pressure still to operate

Whats the best tt price on unit?

[200sx]

Yep 1 1/4” inlet with 1” poly out no 90* bends.......smooth bends with the poly for abt 20-30 feet then break down to 3/4”...........


Supply 1000gl tank and 400gl linked

[200sx]

recently installed a 1HP GOULDS pump with 30/50 switch and a 2gallon pressure tank.........the tank is way to small for the pump............ i know, when they say a 2gl tank its really .6 gallon of water the tank accutally holds (the rest is air this pressure should be set 2PSI lower than your cut in pressure) so every time you use .6 gallon of water the tank empties and the pump trips on.......this is bad for the motor espacially while bathing the .6 gallon from the tank empties quickly.........avg 12-15seconds.........so my pump trips on and of being a 1HP MOTOR........ i need to maintain a flow rate of 24gpm.......... so fellars when choosing a pump bigger isnt always better............i will be supplying water to 5 full baths, plus........kitchen etc......so i wanna convert my 1HP goulds pump to run like a smart head........ by using a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) and moving the pressure switch from the pump, installing it in front of the PRV............i know i can just put a smart head unit on it............but i want to try another way..........will be updating........

I know you already bought your fancy valve, but wouldn't a larger tank cut your cycle times down?. Your pump response in filling the small tank while in use would cause it to cycle fast, because unless you open all 5 showers to max that pump once running will go past 30psi and hence the issue. So please do update us to how the unit you bought works out.

I researched buying a bigger tank.......... say I bought a 20gl tank.......on avg it’s 2/3 air pressure 1/3 water which gives me avg 6gl of water discharged from 50psi to 30psi before the pumps trips on then back up to 50psi............ that steady pressure drop from 50-30psi will be noticeable hence the purpose of the “fancy valve” having a pump running is better for the motor than the start stop.........

This valve senses when there’s more than 1gpm flow and more or less fools the pump by causing a steady back pressure not harming the impeller of the pump causing it to keep running until the water is shut off which allows the pump to build back up tank pressure to the set 50psi

It’s a mechanical smart head set up more or less

I’ll let u’ll know abt the valve........should arrive next week.........

[wheelbarrow]

Hmm. Alot of advice in here.


Once you have a minimum 18liter Pressure Tank on your 1/2 to 1 HP Jet Pump you can set your pressure switch to cut off at 60PSI or even 70 psi to ensure that the pump stays on while water is in use. (This cut off pressure depends on if your plumbing can handle the code of Max 150PSI)
This way you don't get short-cycling of the pump. No need to put yourself in added expense for a CSV for those pumps below 1HP.
If you can afford it tho, by all means go ahead.



The older model Smartheads (the one with the blue upside down cone) is better than any other. This model has replacement parts available.
The Hidromatic has issues. The others from China has issues.

Square D/Pumptrol pressure switches are best.
Again, any other brand is not as good,

You can buy the brand of pump you want from a hardware of your chosing where you will get it as cheap as possible. Jus keep the warranty document. This document is the most important thing, no warranty document=no warranty.

Follow the warranty conditions:

-If you have a pressure tank/pressure switch controlled system, make sure you have a float switch installed or else the warranty is voided.
-Make sure you have a discharge checkvalve installed. No checkvalve=no warranty.
- Nothing electrical is covered under the warranty of most of the pump brands. So ensure that it has a proper and permanent electrical supply. No extension cords. If possible install a voltage monitor/Breakermatic
- Check the air at least every 3-6 months on the pressure tank. Checking that air is essential to the long life of a pump. Once that pump starts to short cycle ur damaging the pump.


Please read ur warranty carefully as there is fine print as to what has "X" amount of years coverage and what has less.


Cost to install is based on how your plumbing and place is set up.
Jus ensure you get someone who has knowledge and experience in these things to install as it will save you alot of headache and expense in the long run.

[200sx]

Well said wheelbarrow

[pugboy]

my smarthead with upside down cone died very early o clock
smartheads should be banned

[pugboy]

remember to put pressure switch after cyclestop valve and pressure tank.
Mine is a 40psi
and pressure switch 40/60

so with multiple taps open, it will keep pump running but choked to 40 psi
if only one tap the volume runs it up a little higher like 50 but constant and only when tap closed runs up to 60 then switches off pump.
generally taps run at 45-55psi on avg rather than swings between 40-60 many times with start stops

Yep 1 1/4” inlet with 1” poly out no 90* bends.......smooth bends with the poly for abt 20-30 feet then break down to 3/4”...........


Supply 1000gl tank and 400gl linked

[scabs]

Great advice here. Any recommendations for a good plumber in south? Im currently building but would require the services of a good plumber and electrician soon.

[nervewrecker]

I think DAF was the brand I saw by a tuner house. Thing quiet as f**k.

Didnt read much on it as I aint even gunna question him, he seems to be a guy that does his HW when buying stuff so i'd trust its good stuff.

[rspann]

remember to put pressure switch after cyclestop valve and pressure tank.
Mine is a 40psi
and pressure switch 40/60

so with multiple taps open, it will keep pump running but choked to 40 psi
if only one tap the volume runs it up a little higher like 50 but constant and only when tap closed runs up to 60 then switches off pump.
generally taps run at 45-55psi on avg rather than swings between 40-60 many times with start stops

IMG_9031.JPG

Yep 1 1/4” inlet with 1” poly out no 90* bends.......smooth bends with the poly for abt 20-30 feet then break down to 3/4”...........


Supply 1000gl tank and 400gl linked

What breed of pump is that. Large chain required.

[rspann]

my smarthead with upside down cone died very early o clock
smartheads should be banned

...............or call them chupid heads.

[Bosse]

Fellas am having a problem with a Pentax 3/4 hp pump with a smart head.

It was bought in 2010 and is working pretty well changed smart head board once.

The problem now is that the pump won’t cut off when it reach the cut off point, there is no leak, changed the check valves but still it won’t cut off.

I noticed thou that when I turn off the ball valve at the water exit it does cut off.

Any idea what can be the issue?

[wheelbarrow]

SmartHeads come on and off based on flow, not pressure. If you lock off the discharge valve and it cuts off, you have a leak somewhere after that valve.

[pugboy]

Agreed, I would suggest if you could install a pressure gauge somewhere
E.g. Screw it on to a garden tap in the system, leave the tap on and then turn on pump system
The pump should pressure up the lines and you will see a reading on the gauge.
Make sure all other taps, toilets etc are locked off.
Then lock off the pump outlet and watch the gauge you installed.
If it starts to go down then you def have a leak somewhere.
Check your toilets, they could be overflowing and you don't know because some toilets overflow into the bowl and hard to see unless you out food coloring in the tank.

[adnj]

Agreed, I would suggest if you could install a pressure gauge somewhere
E.g. Screw it on to a garden tap in the system, leave the tap on and then turn on pump system
The pump should pressure up the lines and you will see a reading on the gauge.
Make sure all other taps, toilets etc are locked off.
Then lock off the pump outlet and watch the gauge you installed.
If it starts to go down then you def have a leak somewhere.
Check your toilets, they could be overflowing and you don't know because some toilets overflow into the bowl and hard to see unless you out food coloring in the tank.

Agreed

Flapper toilet mechanisms, faulty check valves (or installed backwards) or a cracked underground pipe.

[j-honda-civic]

For any problems call 799-7043 he will sort out any problems

[RedVEVO]

^^

Peaks Trading Store - Cocorite .

Stop buying all those cheap brands !!

[adnj]

^^

Peaks Trading Store - Cocorite .

Stop buying all those cheap brands !!

The correct name is Peake Trading: The Home Store

[Dave]

I see Mepco has 1/2hp Westinghouse with pressure tank for $1295. Not bad. Westinghouse has name but not sure about the name with pumps.

[streetbeastINC.]

Smart heads are crap

[RedVEVO]

^^

Peaks Trading Store - Cocorite .

Stop buying all those cheap brands !!

The correct name is Peake Trading: The Home Store

Yes

Cheap water pumps are destroying our society .

[The_Honourable]

Ok tuners need some advice on noise reduction.

Have a goulds pump on the side of my house bolted to the ground. It's surrounded by a concrete enclosure attached to the house and a gate so it's sheltered from rain and protected from theft. Problem is when the pump turns on, the noise travels along the walls of the house where the pump is located.

I believe the bolts had rubber washers. I guess during the recent removal, maintenance and re-installation of the pump, the plumber did not put on any rubber washers hence the noise and vibration.

Just go to the hardware and simply buy rubber washers? or get something specific for noise and vibration reduction?

[pugboy]

Best u use something thick like piece truck tire retread u find on highway.
But u sure the bearings not going bad and causing that noise?
I have a pump not bolted down next to my bedroom.

Try an old slippers first and see, make sure the pipes can take the additional height.

Ok tuners need some advice on noise reduction.

Have a goulds pump on the side of my house bolted to the ground. It's surrounded by a concrete enclosure attached to the house and a gate so it's sheltered from rain and protected from theft. Problem is when the pump turns on, the noise travels along the walls of the house where the pump is located.

I believe the bolts had rubber washers. I guess during the recent removal, maintenance and re-installation of the pump, the plumber did not put on any rubber washers hence the noise and vibration.

Just go to the hardware and simply buy rubber washers? or get something specific for noise and vibration reduction?

[VexXx Dogg]

Best u use something thick like piece truck tire retread u find on highway.
But u sure the bearings not going bad and causing that noise?
I have a pump not bolted down next to my bedroom.

Try an old slippers first and see, make sure the pipes can take the additional height.

Ok tuners need some advice on noise reduction.

Have a goulds pump on the side of my house bolted to the ground. It's surrounded by a concrete enclosure attached to the house and a gate so it's sheltered from rain and protected from theft. Problem is when the pump turns on, the noise travels along the walls of the house where the pump is located.

I believe the bolts had rubber washers. I guess during the recent removal, maintenance and re-installation of the pump, the plumber did not put on any rubber washers hence the noise and vibration.

Just go to the hardware and simply buy rubber washers? or get something specific for noise and vibration reduction?

Might be bad bearings like pugboy said.

[The_Honourable]

Thanks for the advice, i'll get the rubbers or a pad first and see. If nothing gives, then have to investigate the pump.

[Ted_v2]

who is the goulds dealer, my pump housing is starting to get very rotten externally, No leaks as yet but looking to get one before it starts to leak. Or anyone have a burnt/damaged pump to sell, that would work too.

pugboy setup looks very correct from what im seeing.

[pugboy]

the main body is cast iron, I have not seen those parts selling, better to just clean it up and paint primer.

there is a chap who advertises on fb does pump servicing for a few hundred dollars,

he also sells goulds pumps he fixed up for around $1200 which is quite reasonable

of course they are not new and would have rust areas that he cleaned up.
I bought one from him last year as a backup and it works well
it was also the more expensive model which normally goes for around $3k nowadays.

[shake d livin wake d dead]

the main body is cast iron, I have not seen those parts selling, better to just clean it up and paint primer.

there is a chap who advertises on fb does pump servicing for a few hundred dollars,

he also sells goulds pumps he fixed up for around $1200 which is quite reasonable

of course they are not new and would have rust areas that he cleaned up.
I bought one from him last year as a backup and it works well
it was also the more expensive model which normally goes for around $3k nowadays.

Any contact for him?? Recently we decided to start doubling up on certain stuff. Bought fridge number 2 right before covid lockdown. A second pump may not be a bad idea

[pugboy]

786-1381
Dwayne
from diego martin i believe

If he dont have he will probably be able to work/source one soon.
There are many many pumps out there presumed to be dead or not working for a variety of reasons but easily fixed back to working order.

If you buying extra fridge etc you should also have a lil generator too in case.

the main body is cast iron, I have not seen those parts selling, better to just clean it up and paint primer.

there is a chap who advertises on fb does pump servicing for a few hundred dollars,

he also sells goulds pumps he fixed up for around $1200 which is quite reasonable

of course they are not new and would have rust areas that he cleaned up.
I bought one from him last year as a backup and it works well
it was also the more expensive model which normally goes for around $3k nowadays.

Any contact for him?? Recently we decided to start doubling up on certain stuff. Bought fridge number 2 right before covid lockdown. A second pump may not be a bad idea