Building a house in Trinidad

[GRIM]

this is what i meant by having the rebar end at the same place top and bottom

even worse if it ends in the middle of the beam span
and yes minimum 50x diameter of rebar for lapping as i showed in the drawing
50 x 5/8'' = 32 inches min lap.

[York]

this is what i meant by having the rebar end at the same place top and bottom

even worse if it ends in the middle of the beam span
and yes minimum 50x diameter of rebar for lapping as i showed in the drawing
50 x 5/8'' = 32 inches min lap.

Where you get this from pal? I think maybe it was drawn like that so as not to confuse the drawing with the lapping over the post. And it is not worse if it is in the middle because the load goes more towards the ends of the beam, thats why the stirrups are space 4" there and 6" in the middle.

[stang]

Good information in this thread for those needing guidance on constructing a home.

Thinking of building, but have no construction knowledge or experience and inquiring if an estimate can be provided on the following:

• A two story open floor plan with the dimension of 20x60 on flat stable land (can go longer if required and funds allow)—was informed of issues with TC
• A 12x12 porch in both downstairs and upstairs (might make it smaller)
• Three bedrooms upstairs with two baths and small study
• Living room, kitchen, dining room, washing room and toilet downstairs.

I really want to get an idea of construction for the foundation, walls, plumbing, electrical and roof as priority right now. Finishing off with tiles, suspended ceiling, doors/windows, kitchen, bath and fixtures will be done separate (estimate here is greatly appreciated also).

Thanks for any assistance.

why 20 feet wide?
60 feet will most likely give problems by T&C if its for a 50'x100' lot
maximum of 40%(i think) of total square footage allowed for residential lot

The proposed construction will be a separate attachment to an existing property resulting in a narrow but longer area to accommodate within the property boundary.

Can someone clarify the following:

If the new addition is attached to the existing premise then no new meter (electricity) can be associated with the property. To be able to get a new connection would require the property to be separate (walls not connected).

[GRIM]

the first drawing i posted is the correct orientation of main reinforcement, 5/8'' in this case.

http://forums.trinituner.com/upload/data/d7/pay%20me%20for%20this.jpg

the second drawing is wrong.

never ever place main reinforcement like this whether the bars lap at the center or close to the column. never let the rebar end and lap at the same place top and bottom. it is wrong and i've never seen a rc beam detailed like that by any competent structural engineer

oh and i draw these details as per the engineers design.
York what structural/civil engineering firm do you work for or have worked for?

[York]

I get the point but what consumers have to contend with is the practicality of the design and practise of local builders. My point is what makes your link correct? It has no accompanying load calculations or the like. it is just a drawing plus it seemed a bit comical that a drawing would tell you to fire your builder...

One drawing detail I have for 12 to 16 ft beams shows 3-T20 on both ends and 2-T20 in the middle ON TOP and 3-T16 ON THE BOTTOM (not shouting).

Another for 20ft max beams has 4-T20 on both ends and 3-T20 in the middle ON TOP and 4-T16 ON THE BOTTOM.

Both these drawing details have R10-4" and R10-8" as opposed to 6" in your drawing.

I would agree that less is only more at harris megastore so we need to know what is appropriate for our local designs and what is overkill!

[York]

Good information in this thread for those needing guidance on constructing a home.

Thinking of building, but have no construction knowledge or experience and inquiring if an estimate can be provided on the following:

• A two story open floor plan with the dimension of 20x60 on flat stable land (can go longer if required and funds allow)—was informed of issues with TC
• A 12x12 porch in both downstairs and upstairs (might make it smaller)
• Three bedrooms upstairs with two baths and small study
• Living room, kitchen, dining room, washing room and toilet downstairs.

I really want to get an idea of construction for the foundation, walls, plumbing, electrical and roof as priority right now. Finishing off with tiles, suspended ceiling, doors/windows, kitchen, bath and fixtures will be done separate (estimate here is greatly appreciated also).

Thanks for any assistance.

why 20 feet wide?
60 feet will most likely give problems by T&C if its for a 50'x100' lot
maximum of 40%(i think) of total square footage allowed for residential lot

The proposed construction will be a separate attachment to an existing property resulting in a narrow but longer area to accommodate within the property boundary.

Can someone clarify the following:

If the new addition is attached to the existing premise then no new meter (electricity) can be associated with the property. To be able to get a new connection would require the property to be separate (walls not connected).

For a new connection seek the advise of TTEC. It supposed to be separate, both buildings.

I am not sure, a licensed electrician can advise better, but if the buildings were to join you may be able to get separate meters. This is if you put in a splitter for the one TTEC connection you already have. It may entail re-doing your main entrance cable to newly installed splitter with separate meters possibly adding inconvenience and extra cost of inspection for both buildings separately.

That's why some ppl who rent out apartments estimate the electricity bill and include it in the rent so they dont have all that to deal with and a set of separate bills.

It all depends on what you want to do, seek the advise of a licensed electrician and TTEC.

[GRIM]

the second drawing (the one with the read text and arrow) is comical because i used it only as a visual aid to what i was trying to describe.
its still wrong.
the first on with the column detail and cross section of the beam is the right way.
again what structural/civil engineering firm do you work for or have worked for?

[urbandilema]

Good information in this thread for those needing guidance on constructing a home.

Thinking of building, but have no construction knowledge or experience and inquiring if an estimate can be provided on the following:

• A two story open floor plan with the dimension of 20x60 on flat stable land (can go longer if required and funds allow)—was informed of issues with TC
• A 12x12 porch in both downstairs and upstairs (might make it smaller)
• Three bedrooms upstairs with two baths and small study
• Living room, kitchen, dining room, washing room and toilet downstairs.

I really want to get an idea of construction for the foundation, walls, plumbing, electrical and roof as priority right now. Finishing off with tiles, suspended ceiling, doors/windows, kitchen, bath and fixtures will be done separate (estimate here is greatly appreciated also).

Thanks for any assistance.

why 20 feet wide?
60 feet will most likely give problems by T&C if its for a 50'x100' lot
maximum of 40%(i think) of total square footage allowed for residential lot

The proposed construction will be a separate attachment to an existing property resulting in a narrow but longer area to accommodate within the property boundary.

Can someone clarify the following:

If the new addition is attached to the existing premise then no new meter (electricity) can be associated with the property. To be able to get a new connection would require the property to be separate (walls not connected).

For a new connection seek the advise of TTEC. It supposed to be separate, both buildings.

I am not sure, a licensed electrician can advise better, but if the buildings were to join you may be able to get separate meters. This is if you put in a splitter for the one TTEC connection you already have. It may entail re-doing your main entrance cable to newly installed splitter with separate meters possibly adding inconvenience and extra cost of inspection for both buildings separately.

That's why some ppl who rent out apartments estimate the electricity bill and include it in the rent so they dont have all that to deal with and a set of separate bills.

It all depends on what you want to do, seek the advise of a licensed electrician and TTEC.

Feel u cud do a sub panel..or u can run a nex meter.remember to check your electrican and tntec

[York]

A sub-panel will be limited as the load of a full 20x60 house will be too high for the existing panel especially if you going to put A/C (20A each) and water heater (30A) and dryer (40A).

[chevy3k]

The commission (T&TEC) will connect only to a single Consumer’s Entrance Cable at the Point of Supply to a building.

Where a supply is required to a building already wired with one or more metered Installation, one needs to consult the Commission before carrying out any work.
Buildings with accommodation for two or more Consumers,such as apartments etc. will not be supplied unless the Entrance Cable is of adequate size to supply the entire number of Consumers.
If the building is to have more than one separately metered Consumer’s Installation, a metal splitter box with a suitably sized Circuit Breaker for each Installation has to be installed between the Consumer’s Entrance Cable and the meter socket/s by the Consumer/s or Landlord & provision has to be made on the splitter box for the Commission to apply seals or locks. Each of the Circuit Breakers in the splitter box are to be properly identified as to which consumer is connected to it.

[urbandilema]

The commission (T&TEC) will connect only to a single Consumer’s Entrance Cable at the Point of Supply to a building.

Where a supply is required to a building already wired with one or more metered Installation, one needs to consult the Commission before carrying out any work.
Buildings with accommodation for two or more Consumers,such as apartments etc. will not be supplied unless the Entrance Cable is of adequate size to supply the entire number of Consumers.
If the building is to have more than one separately metered Consumer’s Installation, a metal splitter box with a suitably sized Circuit Breaker for each Installation has to be installed between the Consumer’s Entrance Cable and the meter socket/s by the Consumer/s or Landlord & provision has to be made on the splitter box for the Commission to apply seals or locks. Each of the Circuit Breakers in the splitter box are to be properly identified as to which consumer is connected to it.

Like u quote d wiring for light and power lol:grin:

[mamoo_pagal]

I am looking for a contractor who can take me from design to finish for renovation project, any recommendations for persons who are reliable?

[MD Marketers]

hey guys. how far apart are stirrups placed?
using 5/8" rebar and 3/8" stirrups (8"x8")

8"s closer to the center of the beam/column and 4"s as you near the end.

It may vary dependent on span and supporting weight, but not by much.
There are reasons for everything. If you're not sure ask an architect or hire a consultant (wink) to inspect/direct every stage before you allow them to move on to the next stage.

MD Marketers, with all due respect please get a copy of the TTBS publication TTS 599: 2006 - Guide to the Design and Construction of Small Buildings before you give people advice. You seem to have some construction experience, and this guide will supplement your knowledge so that you can give people more informed advice.

For an 8" deep reinforced concrete beam, the stirrups should not exceed 5" spacing anywhere along the length of the beam. Not knowing the span of the beam, concrete strength, location in the structure, and purpose of the structure (domestic or commercial/industrial), it is even difficult to comment on whether an 8" deep beam or the proposed reinforcement is even sufficient for your needs. The shallowest recommended beam given in TTS 599: 2006 for domestic use is 300mm (12"), not 8" (200mm).

People, I am sure that if you look properly, you can find a copy of the recommended publication free on the internet. I strongly recommend that people into small building construction (2 storeys and less) and/or people looking to hire someone to design and build a small building for them get a copy of this publication. It is written for the layman to understand so that the end product will be able to stand up to the loads to which structures in our region are subjected.

What the sugar beans did I write this for then:
"It may vary dependent on span and supporting weight, but not by much."
?

With all due respect please get a copy of Nelson's West Indian Readers. (first primer)

The stirrups are 8"x8" & not the reinforced concrete beam
Can you not read where I wrote "stirrups (8"x8")"

Who in the world would even think about using an 8"x8" reinforced concrete beam for support?
The rc beams would be 12"x12" in this case because we cater 2" of concrete between steel and the surface.
Rory I don't mind you trying to correct years of experience with your "technical expertise" but at least try to keep up with the conversation please.

I know what low-profile was asking because of experience. He got the correct answer and it is fully supported with the engineering text books. It was common sense for any builder.

Wisdom & Experience vs Textbook Knowledge let's go.

[MD Marketers]

this is what i meant by having the rebar end at the same place top and bottom

even worse if it ends in the middle of the beam span
and yes minimum 50x diameter of rebar for lapping as i showed in the drawing
50 x 5/8'' = 32 inches min lap.

Where you get this from pal? I think maybe it was drawn like that so as not to confuse the drawing with the lapping over the post. And it is not worse if it is in the middle because the load goes more towards the ends of the beam, thats why the stirrups are space 4" there and 6" in the middle.

York's right, Grim's wrong.
See the part i bolded out.
I'm happy this post was made so people can see some of the mistakes many builders make.

[MD Marketers]

Good information in this thread for those needing guidance on constructing a home.

Thinking of building, but have no construction knowledge or experience and inquiring if an estimate can be provided on the following:

• A two story open floor plan with the dimension of 20x60 on flat stable land (can go longer if required and funds allow)—was informed of issues with TC
• A 12x12 porch in both downstairs and upstairs (might make it smaller)
• Three bedrooms upstairs with two baths and small study
• Living room, kitchen, dining room, washing room and toilet downstairs.

I really want to get an idea of construction for the foundation, walls, plumbing, electrical and roof as priority right now. Finishing off with tiles, suspended ceiling, doors/windows, kitchen, bath and fixtures will be done separate (estimate here is greatly appreciated also).

Thanks for any assistance.

why 20 feet wide?
60 feet will most likely give problems by T&C if its for a 50'x100' lot
maximum of 40%(i think) of total square footage allowed for residential lot

The proposed construction will be a separate attachment to an existing property resulting in a narrow but longer area to accommodate within the property boundary.

Can someone clarify the following:

If the new addition is attached to the existing premise then no new meter (electricity) can be associated with the property. To be able to get a new connection would require the property to be separate (walls not connected).

For a new connection seek the advise of TTEC. It supposed to be separate, both buildings.

I am not sure, a licensed electrician can advise better, but if the buildings were to join you may be able to get separate meters. This is if you put in a splitter for the one TTEC connection you already have. It may entail re-doing your main entrance cable to newly installed splitter with separate meters possibly adding inconvenience and extra cost of inspection for both buildings separately.

That's why some ppl who rent out apartments estimate the electricity bill and include it in the rent so they dont have all that to deal with and a set of separate bills.

It all depends on what you want to do, seek the advise of a licensed electrician and TTEC.

Came across this a few times.
If the Armour Cable from the meter box is thick enough (40mm) you can feed a sub-panel in the new building from the main panel using a 20mm armor cable. Run it underground.
Don't tell anyone
Sells for around $120 per foot

[GRIM]

im wrong??
since york didnt answer when i ask him i'll ask you also
MD Marketers which civil/structural engineering firm you are/have worked for?
whether in the middle of the beam or where the column meets the beam never have both top and bottom rebar lap at the same place.


i said before the first drawing is correct
this one
http://forums.trinituner.com/upload/data/d7/pay%20me%20for%20this.jpg
the bottom rebar is the one to lap nearest to the column and the top rebar is the is to be lapped in the middle of the beam span

[York]

1. which engineering firm do most builders work for?

2. which engineering firm builds most residential houses?

theory and practise often don't coincide because draughtsmen draw what "supposed" to be done but builders do what they "know" which quite often is not the right thing. However, due to safety factor / overdesign it often (but not always) is not a major problem.

[Rory Phoulorie]

People in this thread cannot take constructive criticism.

With respect to the drawing that seems to be generating conflicting opinions with respect to the reinforcing steel lap/splice locations, basically, for a beam that is continuous over supports (columns, load bearing walls, and the like), the main load carrying steel (I am trying to explain this for the layman) is located at the bottom of the beam at the centre of the span of the beam. So you would lap/splice the top steel at the centre of the beam since the top steel in this location carries no tensile load. At the locations where the beam is structurally supported by a member underneath, the main load carrying steel is located at the top of the beam. So you would lap/splice the bottom steel at the locations of the supports since the bottom steel at this location carries no tensile load.

You have to find a balance between the cut lengths of the steel to minimise wastage and positioning the splices at the optimum locations. The first drawing GRIM posted (pay me for this.jpg) is detailed correctly. The drawing that he posted with the splices in the top and bottom steel shown at the same locations is a poor design as he indicated.

[pugboy]

I did not follow the debate in detail but looking at the drawing, common sense would dictate(as indicated) that
the steel joins should be staggered and not have one join directly above another

[bikerchic]

Hey does anyone know the floor area ratio (FAR) that t&c limits us to? I know you can put your floor area on only 40% of the land. I read the FAR is 65%. It this accurate and is there a different allowed value for 1,2,3 story house?

[brakefluid]

Hey does anyone know the floor area ratio (FAR) that t&c limits us to? I know you can put your floor area on only 40% of the land. I read the FAR is 65%. It this accurate and is there a different allowed value for 1,2,3 story house?

Huh? 40%?

Buddy the house has to be 15ft from the main road boundary and 4ft from the back and sides. Just confirm with a surveyor over the phone.

[pugboy]

4ft from boundary walls ?

[sMASH]

Last time I check, 16' from any road, and 8' from any other boundary.


And big up to Rory pholourie for explaining better how the loads dictate the splicing.

[MD Marketers]

4ft from boundary walls ?

In China maybe.
Trinidad 8' on sides/back and 25' from front boundary if it's a major road & 15' from front boundary if it's a minor road.
You won't find this in any engineering text books. Comes with knowledge of your country

P.S. You can't cheat with the cantilevers any more. (miss the old days)

[York]

12' from the rear boundary, 8' side, 15' front. 4' may be for commercial buildings??

FAR 0.39 for flat. 1.36 for 2-storey, 2.06 for 3-storey. The floor areas are added for the various levels and divided by the lot area.

65% = percentage of site covered by building and paved areas.

[MD Marketers]

12' from the rear boundary, 8' side, 15' front. 4' may be for commercial buildings??

I confirmed with a retired building inspector who now does drawings for a living.
Trust me it's as i said above.

[Rory Phoulorie]

Minimum Building Setbacks for Residential Areas (as taken from the T&CPD publication "Guide to Developers and Applicants for Planning Permission (1989)):

[urbandilema]

Nice Info rory I learned sometime dey..blessings

[konartis]

Anyone can recommend a good person in south to get an estimate to take to TTMF? Thanks.

[pugboy]

i recently did a leasehold renewal for a Woodbrook property,
A long drawn out process including change of use etc.

It is almost complete, I will outline the steps taken along the way
Mind you this process took a few years(via the normal channels)

Maybe others who have done similar or done approvals for land from scratch can also outline,
Woodbrook is unique as it is leasehold and controlled by the pos city corp