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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 10th, 2015, 7:42 pm

kyhamil wrote:I only have the tuff green stuff on d glass to get rid of and im not seeing my tang eating it

nothing eats that.................. get the glass cleaner. the longer you wait the worse it gets. That's when the effort scratches your glass in cleaning. So take yuh time.
Longtime I used to leave it on the glass till I realize the headache in cleaning. Its actually better to clean your glass every 3-4 days. I get heavy coralline buildup on my glass because of the heavy dosing I do. When I working and the wife have to clean it, she gets pissed.
Last edited by HondaB20B on June 10th, 2015, 8:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 10th, 2015, 7:50 pm

Whats alyuh phosphate readings..................... Something alyuh using is feeding the algae. many factors feed algae...... too much light, high phosphates and nitrates, high TDS readings in your water(possibly from not changing your DI resin regular- a regular size cartridge only makes about 50-60gal of water before your TDS readings go above 1), or using the wrong water for topup like bluewaters

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 10th, 2015, 8:49 pm

Effective Algae Control

Effective Algae Control The appearance and growth of algae in an aquarium is not necessarily bad. In fact, it is the natural order of things. It shows that your aquarium is well balanced and healthy. Only when the algae is allowed to grow out of control and cover everything is it a problem. Left unchecked, it can cover the glass - in colors ranging from black to bright green in freshwater, or even pink, purple, or burgundy in saltwater - making viewing your beautiful inhabitants impossible. It can also quickly cover the decorations, diminishing the appeal of the entire environment.
Algae keeps things looking natural and provides a food source for fish and microorganisms. Thus, your goal should not be to eliminate all algae. Instead, it should be to manage its growth to keep the population at a desirable level.

Many aquarists who encounter hair or other tough algae treat the symptoms, not the problem. For example, they may bleach all their decorations and gravel and then treat the water with a dechlorinator, placing the health of their fish at risk, only to discover the algae making a fast comeback within days. Knowing what factors contribute to algae growth, and your control options, will help you keep a healthy, well-balanced aquarium.

First, test your water!
To avoid algae problems, it is good practice to test your aquarium water regularly, and your tap water before changes. If you already have an algae problem, your first step should be to test your tap water. If the test results show significant levels of phosphate, nitrate, or iron, your battle against algae will be futile until they are reduced.

Fight phosphate at its source
Most phosphate comes from three sources: tap water, fish food, and carbon. To avoid unwanted phosphate levels, make sure no uneaten food is allowed to remain in the aquarium. The most effective means to reduce or eliminate phosphate already present are a reverse osmosis (RO) unit or a tap water filter. Commercial phosphate removers or a combination Carbon-Phosphate Remover can also be effective.

Use high-grade filters and media
Effective Algae Control Algae thrives on excess nutrients, nitrate, and iron which result from a number of factors, including overstocking, overfeeding, contaminated tap water, and failure to do timely water changes. To help lower nutrients, use of a premium grade carbon will help reduce dissolved organics and metals, and slow the return of algae. However, if certain types of hair algae appear in your aquarium you may have a persistent problem that requires tougher measures.

The right choice of filter media can also make a big difference in phosphate levels: Poly Filters, which can be used to filter your aquarium and pre-filter tap water, will remove phosphate, iron, and heavy metals. These filters change color to indicate what they are removing.

Maintain good water quality
A partial water change, about one-fourth, every three to four weeks, helps remove excess organics. Ideally, for saltwater, use distilled water, or water purified through reverse osmosis (RO). If you are using tap water which contains chlorine, be sure to add a dechlorinator, and, if algae nutrients are present, run it through a prefilter. To minimize the amount of organic matter in the water, do not add any new fish while it has excess algae, and feed your fish only what they can consume in a couple of minutes.

Liquid algae controls such as AlgaeFix are safe and effective in freshwater aquariums. Once you have taken care of the root problem, you can use them to help clean up your aquarium and prevent new growth.

Serve the algae up for dinner
In freshwater aquariums, the addition of certain types of fish are a win-win strategy. You get to enjoy the fish, they get to enjoy the algae. Many varieties of freshwater fish, such as Plecos, include algae in their diet, as do saltwater fishes, including Tangs and most Angelfishes. Also, In salt water, macroalgae species can be cultivated in the aquarium to control unwanted pests types like slime, hair, fungus and bacteria forms.

Modify your lighting
If algae growth is fast, your aquarium may be getting too much light, even if carefully positioned out of the sun's direct rays. You might need to block reflected light, or decrease the amount of time you use artificial light on your aquarium.

Since algae requires light and nutrients to grow, you may consider running your lights for shorter periods of time. It has also been shown that some algae appear to grow better as light intensity decreases. Consider changing bulbs as the intensity diminishes on aquarium bulbs over time. Effective Algae Control

Just wipe it away
The simplest control method is also the most economical. You can reach into the aquarium and scrub it away with an Easy Cleaning Algae Mitt. If you want to keep your hands dry, use a Mag Float to wipe your aquarium walls clean from the outside. You can also remove excess amounts by siphoning or filtration. Manual cleaning won't prevent the return of algae, but it helps make other control methods more effective. Whatever manual cleaning method you use, do not leave loose algae floating about in your aquarium where it will decay, increasing the amount of dissolved organic material and lowering the oxygen level.

Most algae problems can be controlled, especially if diagnosed early. Using a combination of the techniques above, you can keep your aquarium clean and colorful.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 11th, 2015, 11:46 am

WHAT ENCOURAGES AGGRESSIVE ALGAE GROWTH?

Aquarium aesthetics compromised by persistent algae is a common annoyance for most hobbyists. It is easy to regard algae as the problem, but aggressive algae growth is merely a symptom of a series of underlying water quality issues. Attempts at controlling algae are often unsuccessful if the root causes are not identified.
Algae are prolific and opportunistic organisms that take advantage of aquarium systems that are out of balance. Water quality issues including excess nutrients, poor water movement, and insufficient aeration create ideal conditions for algae. Alone, these water quality issues may seem minor, but when combined they create an imbalance that favors aggressive algae growth. Therefore, the most effective approach to algae control is a multifaceted one that properly addresses each water quality issue.

EXCESS NUTRIENTS

Begin your algae-control regimen by monitoring fish feedings. Your fish should be able to completely finish their food within a few minutes. If not, you are feeding them too much. Overfeeding is probably the most common source of excess nutrients. It may seem like a harmless oversight, but overfeeding triggers a series of events that affect water quality. As uneaten food breaks down, it releases a variety of algae-fueling nutrients including nitrogen compounds and phosphate. Large, well-fed fish produce more organic waste to further increase the food supply for algae.


OTHER NUTRIENT SOURCES

Nutrient sources for algae are not limited to just fish food. Many common algal nutrients may be lurking right in your source water. Depending on your source water, you may be inadvertently introducing nitrogen compounds (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), phosphate, silicate, or iron into your aquarium. Regular routine water changes are recommended to remove or dilute nutrient concentration in aquariums, but if these nutrients are present in your source water, you may be fighting a losing battle.

Use aquarium test kits to determine if your source water contains ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, silicate, or iron. If test results are positive, there are several steps you can take to remedy the situation. However, the most comprehensive and effective approach is to employ a Reverse Osmosis (RO) unit. RO units are designed to remove the majority of tap water impurities to produce pure water.

POOR WATER MOVEMENT

Aquariums with poor or inadequate water movement create protected areas where algae can establish. Waste materials settle and accumulate in these "dead spots" and create a nutrient-rich foundation for algae. Improving water movement through the use of powerheads reduces the buildup of waste materials and allows filtration devices to work more efficiently. The moving water helps transport more waste materials to the filter where they are mechanically removed from the water column. However, it is essential to clean or replace mechanical filter media on a regular basis. If not, the trapped organic debris will break down and release dissolved organic nutrients back into the aquarium.

INSUFFICIENT AERATION

Proper aeration plays a critical role in algae control. Aeration devices allow efficient gas exchange where carbon dioxide is released from the water and fresh air and oxygen is introduced. Since algae require carbon dioxide to thrive, reducing the supply of carbon dioxide limits algae growth. The powerful Tetra Whisper Deepwater Pump is designed to run multiple air stones or bubble wands making them a great choice even in deeper aquariums.

REGULAR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Simply put, there is no avoiding regular routine maintenance. Partial water changes (25% every 1-2 weeks) reduce and dilute the concentration of aquarium pollutants and excess algal nutrients. Use an algae scraper to physically remove algae from surfaces and whenever possible, siphon out the algae debris.

ADDITIONAL
ALGAE CONTROL TIPS


Supplement your existing algae control regimen with an ultraviolet sterilizer. - UV sterilizers emit UVC light to help prevent stubborn, free-floating algae from multiplying.
Enhance water quality with phosphate-removing chemical filter media. - These specialized media effectively remove phosphate and other dissolved aquarium pollutants.
Employ biological algae control. - Add live plants to naturally reduce algal nutrients. To clean up uneaten food, consider catfish and other bottom feeders. Better yet, stock your aquarium with herbivores and algae eaters. For marine aquariums, grow beneficial macroalgae in a refugium.
When trying to control algae, pay special attention to water parameters and fish health. - Don't be surprised to find out algae may actually be benefiting your aquarium by processing excess nutrients and providing supplemental oxygen and food for fish.

10 Ways to Say Adios to Algae

Feed Your Fish Sparingly!

One of the most enjoyable times for the new hobbyist is watching the flurry of activity in the aquarium after that pinch or two of fish food hits the surface. Sometimes we're tempted to repeat the show 2-3 times a day, which is fine if your fish consume all the food within a couple minutes. The problems start if there is excess food, which is defined as "overfeeding." Overfeeding is the most common source of the algal nutrients ammonia and phosphate. Algae thrive on both the nutrients generated from uneaten food and fish waste. Many experienced hobbyists who learn to resist the feeding frenzy and only feed once daily - or feed smaller portions 2-3 times daily - find it's much easier to keep the unwanted green in check.

Control the Lights

If you turn on your aquarium lights when you wake up and turn them off before bed, the extended light cycle may be encouraging extra algae growth. Put your lights on a timer to replicate a day/night schedule and stick to it. Keep lights on 10-14 hours per day for planted aquariums, 6-10 for ornamental setups. Also, change bulbs at least once a year. Aquarium bulbs lose their spectrum and intensity as they age; this weakened light will likely encourage algae growth.

Frequent Partial Water Changes

In nature, rain and water currents refresh water conditions by diluting and carrying away nitrate (a.k.a. algae fertilizer) before it can build up to excessive levels. Your closed aquarium system, however, requires regular water changes to remove excess nutrients. Ideal frequency is 10% weekly, but for a lightly populated aquarium, 30% monthly is sufficient. It's also a chance to siphon up all the sludge and dead plant matter in your gravel.

Test Your Tap

It is a good practice to test your tap water before changes, because it may contain algae-encouraging elements right out of the faucet. If the test results show significant levels of phosphate or other algae inducing elements, your battle against algae via water changes will be futile until they are reduced by an RO unit or a tap water filter.

Maintain Your Filter Media

Keep algae's favorite nutrient out of your aquarium with phosphate controlling media and biological boosters for your filtration system. The right choice of filter media can make a big difference in phosphate levels: Drs. Foster & Smith PhosPure® Filter Media will remove phosphate and heavy metals. Combination Carbon-Phosphate Remover products are also available. The carbon keeps your water crystal clear and removes dissolved organics, the phosphate disappears, and best of all, so does the algae. Finally, change your mechanical and chemical media once a month, because as it becomes exhausted and saturated, it may leach the bad stuff back into your aquarium.



Choose Your Weapons

Algae on glass or acrylic has no chance against convenient scrapers like the Mag-Float, the Drs. Foster & Smith Algae Scrubber or the Kent Pro series. What do you have under your aquarium cabinet?

Increase Competition with Plants

The more plants in your aquarium, the less chance algae has of taking over. Plants compete directly with algae for light and nutrients, and most often win if given proper conditions.

Stock with Algae-Hungry fish

Put some fish in your community to work on cleanup duty. This hardy worker seems endlessly busy, seeking out any plant or structure with a hint of algae.

Know Your Enemy

Green Carpet Algae, which covers glass and structures is relatively easy to clean because we have the most weapons to combat it, including: algae scrubbers, and algae-eating catfish and invertebrates.
Green Hair Algae is more stubborn, and even catfish and plecos may avoid it. Your best bet may be to "spaghetti fork" it off your plants and structures with an Aqua Plant Clip. Again, your best protection starts with water quality so you don't have to roll up your sleeves later.
Beard Algae is the black scourge of planted aquarium hobbyists. A major takeover by this unsightly guest may only be remedied by pruning away covered leaves and removing affected driftwood.

Know When Some Algae is OK
Take a moment to sit back and look at your planted aquarium. Does it look natural? Is there a hint of green covering driftwood or rocks which makes the structures blend in with the underwater garden? If it's not covering your glass or choking out the leaves of your plants, there's little reason to panic. Algae may be unsightly, but it actually consumes excess nutrients and provides oxygen. No one "wins" the battle against algae. Success is finding a natural balance in your enclosed ecosystem.


Importance of Water Changes in Aquariums


Water quality determines the continued health and growth of aquarium inhabitants. Aquarium water quality is not merely an aesthetic concern but a fundamental part of fish health management. Simply put, maintaining clean, healthy water through routine water changes is the key to the well-being of aquarium inhabitants.

WHY CHANGE WATER - DOES IT MATTER?

As a general guideline, a monthly 25% water change is recommended. However, smaller, more frequent water changes (15-20% every 1-2 weeks) are preferable for heavily stocked aquariums or aquariums with large fish.


Routine water changes have always been a basic aspect of aquarium maintenance. However, with the development of efficient filtration systems and versatile chemical filter media, the emphasis once placed on routine water changes has waned. Further encouraging lax practices is the prevailing perception of water changes being laborious and time-consuming. Aquarium filtration helps extend water quality and slows down the buildup of harmful chemicals. However, filtration alone is not capable of completely offsetting the effects of declining water quality.

MAINTAIN BALANCE THROUGH WATER CHANGES

The basic dynamic that affects water quality is the on-going cycle of chemical import (addition) and export (removal). Whether through feeding, supplementation, or natural metabolic processes, a variety of chemicals is constantly being introduced into the aquarium. While certain chemicals are imported into the water column, others are biologically processed or removed through filtration. When the import and export of these chemicals reach a state of equilibrium, the aquarium system is balanced and tends to have good water quality.

However, aquariums are closed systems where concentrations of imported chemicals and nutrients steadily accumulate over time. It is not uncommon for the import of chemicals to exceed an aquarium's ability to export them. When the aquarium system is not in balance, many undesirable aquarium conditions begin to manifest due to poor water quality . To prevent the effects of declining water quality, the hobbyist should intervene by performing regular water changes.

DISTINCT BENEFITS OF WATER CHANGES

Water changes restore and maintain a balanced aquarium by physically removing and diluting harmful chemicals as well as replenishing vital elements. Whether you have a fresh or saltwater aquarium, it is good practice to perform routine water changes. Key water change benefits include:


REDUCTION OF NITROGENOUS POLLUTANTS

Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are nitrogen compounds harmful to fish. Biological filtration process ammonia, converting it to nitrite, and finally into nitrate. Most aquarium systems lack the ideal conditions to efficiently process nitrate. As a result, nitrate accumulation is extremely common in both freshwater and marine aquariums. While fish are more tolerant of nitrate, high nitrate levels place chronic stress on them. As a result, fish become more susceptible to disease and demonstrate poor growth and color development. For sensitive corals and invertebrates, even low levels of nitrate can compromise proper growth and health.

REMOVAL OF DECOMPOSING ORGANIC WASTE MATERIALS

The routine removal of decaying organics during water changes is important in many ways. As organic waste breaks down, they release nitrogenous products, phosphate, and other chemicals that can lead to poor water quality. In extreme cases, decomposing organic materials create an acidic environment that can compromise the buffering capacity of water and harmful pH change can occur. Maintaining high, stable pH is especially important for saltwater aquariums.

IMPROVED WATER CLARITY

Routine water changes help remove discoloration and odors from aquarium water. In addition to the aesthetic benefit, clear water plays a vital role in reef aquariums. Light intensity required for proper growth of photosynthetic corals and invertebrates is diminished by turbid water. Routine water changes help maintain clear clean water for optimal light penetration and healthy coral growth.

REPLENISHMENT OF TRACE ELEMENTS AND ESSENTIAL MINERALS

In the ocean, there is a constant source of vital minerals, nutrients, and vitamins. However, in marine aquariums, trace elements and essential minerals are often removed through filtration or are depleted as corals and invertebrates use them to grow. Water changes provide a fresh supply necessary for proper growth, biological function, and coloration. Regular water changes also help maintain proper salt concentration.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby mojosodope » June 12th, 2015, 7:56 am

Just took the plunge into reefing.. Picked up an Rodi unit on bulk reef supply's daily deal last night and a refractometer.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby TheSpecialOne » June 12th, 2015, 9:51 am

Is it normal for your anemone to get small when the lights go off at night ?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 12th, 2015, 2:47 pm

mojosodope wrote:Just took the plunge into reefing.. Picked up an Rodi unit on bulk reef supply's daily deal last night and a refractometer.



did the RODI unit come with the pump?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 12th, 2015, 2:50 pm

TheSpecialOne wrote:Is it normal for your anemone to get small when the lights go off at night ?


Which type of anemone...............
Yeah but its normal. Some still remain open because they feed at night.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby mojosodope » June 12th, 2015, 2:53 pm

HondaB20B wrote:
mojosodope wrote:Just took the plunge into reefing.. Picked up an Rodi unit on bulk reef supply's daily deal last night and a refractometer.



did the RODI unit come with the pump?


A booster pump? No but I don't think I may need it

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 12th, 2015, 3:19 pm

There is a reason the pump is there. Your house pump is not sufficient. The pressure your house pump pushes water through the membranes is too slow. The water passes through at a particular rate and you end up with water that is wasted in passing through the DI resin. DI resin only makes a particular amount of water before the resin needs to be changed. With no RO pump, the water stays suspended in the membranes & DI resin longer and less water is made. I must look for the article on one of the reef sites.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » June 12th, 2015, 3:51 pm


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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 12th, 2015, 4:03 pm

check the reviews........................... just remember thats only the RO part. and that one is the one without the pump. You still have to buy the DI cartridge and all the fittings.
You need the iSpring RCC7P which has everything.
How much is this going to cost in shipping now.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby dgobo » June 12th, 2015, 4:21 pm

I bought my RODI from BRS and after shipping and taxes it wasn't that much more by Raj.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby thatlife » June 12th, 2015, 8:41 pm

soo..been a while since I posted

my tanks were going extremely well

lots of coral growth, zoas covered everywhere etc.

chaeto growing steady, removing every week, glass clean as ever.

then along came these things

Image

Image

[img]https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSQTJvV8ALWE7RWlYF0Ltsj_Ini5OoJB7RK-J-xAIWp7fnoiZzi
[/img]
my zoas are dying out quickly, 2 tanks with zoas have lots of them.
anybody have any experience with removing them?
they are nudibranch, identified them when I looked up "zoa pests"

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby UML » June 12th, 2015, 9:56 pm

Dem ting prettier than my coral.

I would mind them instead :shock:

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby mojosodope » June 12th, 2015, 11:35 pm

HondaB20B wrote:There is a reason the pump is there. Your house pump is not sufficient. The pressure your house pump pushes water through the membranes is too slow. The water passes through at a particular rate and you end up with water that is wasted in passing through the DI resin. DI resin only makes a particular amount of water before the resin needs to be changed. With no RO pump, the water stays suspended in the membranes & DI resin longer and less water is made. I must look for the article on one of the reef sites.



Thanks for the info.. I'm just buying supplies slowly and accumulating, hope to have it up by September, next thing I buy from BRS will be the pump then:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-aquat ... p-kit.html

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » June 13th, 2015, 12:13 am

HondaB20B wrote:There is a reason the pump is there. Your house pump is not sufficient. The pressure your house pump pushes water through the membranes is too slow. The water passes through at a particular rate and you end up with water that is wasted in passing through the DI resin. DI resin only makes a particular amount of water before the resin needs to be changed. With no RO pump, the water stays suspended in the membranes & DI resin longer and less water is made. I must look for the article on one of the reef sites.


I've always read this and heard it, but I don't use any booster pump. My system comfortably makes 50gals overnight. Before I added the float valve to the barrel if I turned the system on at 7am when I got home at 4:30pm the barrel was overflowing.
My DI usually lasts me about 100gals to 120gals before the TDS changes to 1. RO usually is around 4 to 6 TDS and TDS in is average 85 - 93.

Been this way a couple years now and it works for me but my friend recently installed his RODI system and it worked well off the house pump for a while, eventually he had to install a booster pump.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 13th, 2015, 1:22 pm

So at what stage do you change your DI resin. When it reaches like 1 or 3

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » June 14th, 2015, 8:48 am

When it reads one i change it, once it went up to 3 and I didn't notice but once it reads one I change out the resin

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby ziggy_dappa » June 14th, 2015, 9:09 am

^^ Try this. When you tds starts to read above zero fill a bucket and let it sit for about 3 days then re test it. Mine always fall back to zero even from an initial tds of 3, I believe it could be from dissolved carbon dioxide in the water that evaporates in a few days. This could just be the case with my unit and water supply buy its worth a try.
Although 2-3 tds should not harm any corals.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby meccalli » June 14th, 2015, 9:29 am

Or it could be settling of suspended particulate.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby ziggy_dappa » June 14th, 2015, 10:06 am

Could be, but tds is a measure of total dissolved solids so am not sure how much suspended solids would have a effect on the reading since they should not add to the conductivity of the water and even after stirring the water after it has dropped yields the same 0 on the meter. Someone should give it a try and see of it works, if so we are throwing out our di too quickly.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » June 14th, 2015, 10:12 am

I'll try that for sure, doing a watch change later and after filling the barrel again the do should be due to change. I'll post whatever results I get

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby thatlife » June 14th, 2015, 5:42 pm

UML wrote:Dem ting prettier than my coral.

I would mind them instead :shock:


when i first started seeing them i thought they were nice and left them
then the zoas started dieing off, when I googled then I identified them.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby dgobo » June 15th, 2015, 8:02 am

^^ I think blue velvet nudibranch eats flat worms and I think aiptasia. If that's the one you have, you selling?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » June 15th, 2015, 5:03 pm

Raj brings those?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 15th, 2015, 10:16 pm

dgobo wrote:^^ I think blue velvet nudibranch eats flat worms and I think aiptasia. If that's the one you have, you selling?



The blue velvet only eats flat worms, not aptasia.
Raj was bringing in the Berghia Nudibranch which eats aptasia and all end up dying. Bad thing is if you have wrasses, you in trouble. Most of the wrasses eat them. Years ago I had 2 of the purple and yellow Nudibranch. Got two from a guy in la romain. Real nice and only eats algae..............only downfall is that they only live about 6mths. So picture when you get it, its already a few mths old. One got minced by the powerhead and the other went MIA. I asked raj a few times to bring but he says they really don't live long so it doesn't make sense. He said he will be bringing the Berghia though.

thatlife
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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby thatlife » June 17th, 2015, 7:33 pm

^ lol i assumed all were the same, just take different colours to hide in the different colour zoas

i killed organgish ones, purpleish ones, reddish ones
last week had a huge one on the glass, like the size of a small snail, killed it too

i got fedup though, i'm leaving them to do whatever, let it take its course, even if that means having to put back zoas in the tank after a few months

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » June 17th, 2015, 8:00 pm

Theses are some of the wrasses that they say eat them:

1. Yellow Corris
2. 4, 6 or 8 Line
3. Lunar
4. Possum
5. Orange Striped
6. Christmas
7. Pink Striped
8. green corris wrasse
9. leopard

Heard the yellow corris works the best

Question : you picked up zoas from down the islands or toco?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby thatlife » June 18th, 2015, 8:52 am

everything from my tank came from by raj, except the sand which is caribsea fuji

spoke to raj about it, he said he never saw them before by him.

i had it in both display tanks, managed to get rid of them in one tank, zoas doing fine there
the other tank zoas are dieing and falling off, and theres a few now and then crawling around.

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