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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » February 22nd, 2015, 9:06 pm

I did some research and I think im gonna order this...


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3Y4YL ... PDKIKX0DER

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 22nd, 2015, 9:58 pm

ok cool. Don't know about them and if you decide to go corals, I doubt the 9 & 10,000K will work.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » February 22nd, 2015, 10:07 pm

Just for the hell of it... what would you use for corals?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 22nd, 2015, 10:28 pm

LED'S that run 3watts each. There are lots of brands out there but will cost a bit more. I am a T5 person. I running 8 - 12,000K daylights so that grows corals down to the sandbed. My tank is 30" deep.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » February 22nd, 2015, 10:44 pm

So something along this line might work? ....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009YHU3 ... +aquariums

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 22nd, 2015, 11:05 pm

More like this

http://www.amazon.com/Current-ACU01121- ... t+usa+nova

But you have to remember the bulbs need to be replaced every year.

If you going LED's, there are other brands other guys may recommend on the forum

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 22nd, 2015, 11:12 pm


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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby UML » February 23rd, 2015, 8:18 am

HondaB20B wrote:http://www.amazon.com/Maxspect-Razor-LED-Lighting-System/dp/B00AZMR0OC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1424661033&sr=1-1&keywords=razor+led+light

These work real great


Does Raj sell this?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 23rd, 2015, 6:03 pm

Yup.................... had the chance one day to fiddle around with one by him. He had now cleared them and he said go have fun................... real sweet...............LOL

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby bir123 » February 25th, 2015, 4:01 pm

Ok so I got a 18 by 18 by 18 aquarium want to do a nano reef can anyone give me a run down of equipment and anyone recommend specific items to buy.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 25th, 2015, 6:20 pm

bir123 wrote:Ok so I got a 18 by 18 by 18 aquarium want to do a nano reef can anyone give me a run down of equipment and anyone recommend specific items to buy.


Your tank calculates to 25gal.
* Sand to spread 2-3"
* approx 25lbs live rock (cured)
* 1 bottle bacteria
* Hood with 12,000K - T5 bulbs (daylights and actinics) or proper led's (3 watt)
* 1 good powerhead. this works great. - http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Nan ... ralia+nano
* A good brand hang on filter or canister filter. 5-10 times you volume
* 1 bag salt (usually does 50gal)
* 50gal RODI water (NOT TAP WATER OR ANY TYPE OF BOTTLED WATER)
* Test kit ( Amonia, PH, Nitrates, Nitrites)
* Additional test kit (Phosphates, Alkalinity, Calcium)

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby bir123 » February 25th, 2015, 6:42 pm

Thanks a lot doe u have any recommendation for the lights, led or t5s and do u think an aqua clear 50 would do the job .

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 25th, 2015, 7:21 pm

Buy the aqua clear 70 or 110. Remember you want turnover.
With the light I don't know your budget. Many many options.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby bir123 » February 25th, 2015, 7:31 pm

Ok well I already have a aqua clear 110 the only thing is the flow eater is a lot .And for the lights price does not matter but can u give me a cheap one an one that is a little more pricey that wud be best for that setup to do a reef aquarium just for some comparisons. Orrr and thanks

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » February 25th, 2015, 7:54 pm

Isnt the 110 over kill for a 30 gallon doh? Just asking

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 25th, 2015, 8:06 pm

Saltwater is different than freshwater. The more turnover you have the more efficient the system will be. Circulation is another thing that needs to be high. When you get into it you will understand more.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 25th, 2015, 8:10 pm

Basic Filtration
For a basic aquarium, two types of filters are required:

Mechanical filters, which remove particulate debris from the water, need to be checked and cleaned regularly. Even though these filters trap particulate waste and make your aquarium look cleaner, the mechanical media needs to be removed and cleaned, to physically remove the waste from your aquarium.

Biological filters enable bacterial colonies to propagate and break down wastes. Biological filtration is the action of bacteria in the tank breaking down dangerous ammonia, converting them to nitrites, and then the nitrites to the less toxic nitrates. Nitrates can be harmful to many invertebrates in high concentrations. The process of biological filtration, also known as the nitrogen cycle, involves the movement of harmful wastes through the filter. Biological filters should be checked regularly to ensure particles have not escaped the mechanical filters, clogging the biological filter and decreasing efficiency.

Other Types of Filtration
Basic Filtration Chemical filtration involves using media such as activated carbon or filtering resin to remove pollutants and harmful wastes, as well as to clean the water. Chemical filtration can also refer to nitrate and phosphate removers.

There are many different brands and types of filters on the market making it easy to find one that meets your needs.

Which to buy depends on your choice of fish and water climate (i.e. freshwater or saltwater), what size tank you have, how many fish and, to some degree, personal preference. Ideal filters contain at least two of the three basic types of filtration. Chemical filtration is not always necessary.

External vs. Internal


What size?
How large a filter you need depends on the size of your tank. You'll want a filter capable of cycling all the water in your tank three to four times every 60 minutes. A 50-gallon tank would require a filter capable of cycling a minimum of 150 gallons per hour (gph).
Filters can be situated either inside or outside the tank. External filters require the use of a water pump and are referred to as power filters. These are easier to maintain than internal filters and may be more flexible in their ability to alter water chemistry by allowing room to use various media.
A wet/dry filter (a.k.a. trickle filter) uses gravity to syphon water from the tank through a hang on prefilter. It then directs tank water through a suspended biological filter media which is open to constant air contact (dry filter). They may also contain a submersed mechanical or biological filter (wet filter) and usually have extra space to add various chemical medias if needed. A pump then delivers the filtered water back to the aquarium. Since the biological media is in constant contact with air, it does not consume oxygen needed for the biological process from the aquarium water, allowing a higher level to be available for inhabitants.

Internal filters consist of undergravel filters, sponge filters, internal power filters, and box filters. The drawback is that more maintenance may be required.

Protein Skimmers
Protein skimmers are filters generally reserved for saltwater environments. Protein skimmers remove the proteins and other organic waste from the aquarium before being digested by the bacteria. This slows down the build-up of nitrates, lengthens the time between water changes, and prevents algae build-up, all of which contribute to better water conditions. By removing wastes prior to biological breakdown, more oxygen will be available to the inhabitants since it was not consumed in the biological process. Higher oxygen and lower waste levels add a great deal to the overall health of the aquarium making the purchase of a skimmer well worth it.

The Importance of Water Changes
The importance of water skimmers Partial water changes should at least be done monthly by removing and replacing approximately 15%-25% of the total water volume of your aquarium. Water changes may be performed more frequently (weekly, for example) by doing smaller amounts, but always remember to not exceed 25% during any individual water change. It is very important to make sure the new water for the aquarium is the same temperature as the water already in the aquarium, in order to keep the fish from suffering more stress.

Some organisms are good for your tank in low amounts. Algae serve as a food source for some fish; however, you do want to control its growth so it doesn't overtake your tank. Algae will grow as long as there is nourishment, so the key to control is monitoring food and light, and performing regular water changes. Do not overfeed your fish and never place your aquarium where it would be in direct sun.



More on biological filtration...
Today, most biological filters provide a separate area or wheel for the specific task of growing the necessary bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle. These good nitrifying bacteria will grow in other places in the aquarium and on other filter media but not with as great a number. It is hard to argue with the success of these new filters and their ease and success in providing high quality filtration. Regardless of which system you use to provide biological filtration, it is the most important part of maintaining the water quality. Remember that it takes weeks to properly grow the bacteria in a biological filter, so if you are setting up a new tank, wait several weeks between the introduction of your first fish, and the addition of subsequent fish.
In the case of a reef aquarium, your biological filtration may be in the form of live rock. This highly porous rock can filter an aquarium completely on its own, and should be the first inhabitant introduced into a reef aquarium.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » February 25th, 2015, 8:12 pm

[THUMBS UP SIGN] agreed
After getting into the hobby, that's when I learned 90% of what I do today.
Now I could never have enough water flow and turnover!

A chiller or cooling system may also be necessary eventually as you get into corals. Just something to keep in mind.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby bir123 » February 25th, 2015, 8:30 pm

That's very helpful thanks a lot.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » February 25th, 2015, 8:53 pm

Im looking into getting a chiller soon... summer time... and yeah I know about the turn over and tjings like protien skimmer... I haven't done mucj research on the calc or phosphate reactors or dosing for corals... I plan on staying fowlr fpr a year or two... but im always glad to get the info and do the research... iys really helpful just incase I decide to jump ahead... my idea tank would be cpl varieties pf tangs, a lion fish, puffer and of course keep my clown

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 25th, 2015, 8:56 pm

You know puffers are not reef safe right

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » February 25th, 2015, 9:16 pm

Common Aquarium Problems Troubleshooting Guide
Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff





Remedy Common Aquarium Problems: Water Quality Troubleshooting Guide
While it may seem like a passive endeavor, regular observation provides important visual cues, indicating changes in water quality and alerts you that something may be off balance in your aquarium. Fundamental water parameters that influence water quality, such as pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, are relatively easy to monitor through routine testing. However, many conditions associated with poor water quality develop gradually. Early signals may go unnoticed, leading to more serious or more persistent conditions. The following are some common "problems" or visual cues that indicate something may be off balance in your aquarium.


PROBLEM
LOTS OF WHITE OR TAN WORMS IN YOUR FRESHWATER AQUARIUM

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Population boom of planarian due to overfeeding or excess organic debris. May also be due to fish overpopulation, filter malfunction, or inadequate filtration. While generally considered harmless, large numbers of these worms indicate poor water quality.

RECOMMENDED SOLUTION: Avoid overfeeding and promptly remove uneaten food with a siphon or fine mesh net. Perform regular water changes and siphon out debris from the substrate. Use bacterial additives to supplement existing biological filtration and use water conditioners that actively process and break down organic waste. The planarian population will decrease as water quality improves and the food source for the worms diminishes. Verify filtration is working properly and perform maintenance per manufacturer's recommendations.

PROBLEM
WHITE, CLOUDY WATER

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Bacterial bloom triggered by high levels of ammonia. Nitrifying bacteria that consume ammonia reproduce rapidly to the point that they are visible, creating what looks like clouds of swirling, white smoke. Adding too many fish at one time, overfeeding, overcleaning with chlorinated water, and the use of antibiotic medications are common triggers. If bacterial blooms occur without these triggers, it may indicate inadequate nitrifying bacteria or biological filtration.

RECOMMENDED SOLUTION: Use an air pump with airstones to introduce additional oxygen. The air bubbles help release toxic gasses from the water and the added oxygen helps nitrifying bacteria process the ammonia more efficiently. Use bacterial additives to replenish or re-establish beneficial bacteria depleted by medications or large water changes.

PROBLEM
RED OR RUST-COLORED WATER

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Discoloration due to mineral-rich source water containing iron (i.e. well water). Aquariums with high oxygen levels may experience a more pronounced discoloration (redness) due to the oxidization of dissolved iron particles. High levels of minerals, such as iron and silicate, not only discolor the water but also provide nutrients that spark aggressive algae growth. Water with high mineral content (hard water) also has a greater buffering capacity and makes pH adjustments difficult.

RECOMMENDED SOLUTION: Chemical filter media such as Poly Filter removes specific pollutants such as iron and silicate and is a good choice. Peat or similar water softening chemical media can be used to help stabilize pH to desired levels. However, if the mineral content of the source water is very high, avoid using pH decreasers to adjust pH. The minerals in the hard water will buffer the water, making it difficult to successfully lower the pH. A water purification system such as a reverse osmosis unit provides the most reliable, long-term solution for problems resulting from hard water conditions.

PROBLEM
FISH GASPING OR BREATHING HEAVILY AFTER A WATER CHANGE

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Chlorine or chloramine in tap water. These chemicals are commonly added to municipal tap water for their disinfectant qualities. Even small quantities of chlorine and chloramine can be detrimental to fish. Chlorine can severely stress fish by attacking their gills, causing them to gasp and breathe heavily. At higher concentrations, chlorine kills. Unfortunately, chlorine and chloramine will not only harm aquarium fish but can affect the entire aquarium system. These chemicals also kill beneficial bacteria and impair biological filtration. As a result, a series of water quality problems, including harmful ammonia spikes, can ensue.

RECOMMENDED SOLUTION: Commercial dechlorinators (chlorine removers) are available to help remove chlorine from tap water. When used as directed, they instantly remove chlorine from tap water to make it safe for aquarium use. However, not all dechlorinators will remove chloramine so it is important to know what chemicals are used to treat your tap water. Our Drs. Foster & Smith Chlorine Neutralizer addresses both chlorine and chloramine to effectively neutralize these harmful chemicals. Reverse osmosis (RO) units are a good choice for serious hobbyists who require large amounts of pure water for sensitive reef aquariums. RO units can remove up to 99.9% of tap water impurities including phosphate, nitrate, minerals, and heavy metals for contaminant-free water.

PROBLEM
FREQUENT AMMONIA SPIKES

POSSIBLE CAUSE: A decrease in your aquarium's beneficial bacteria population. These bacteria are necessary to the nitrogen cycle, in which ammonia is broken down. Ammonia spikes are most commonly associated with newly established systems where too many fish are added before a suitable bacteria colony is established. However, ammonia spikes can also occur in mature home aquariums, after gravel substrate or bio-media is cleaned or replaced.

RECOMMENDED SOLUTION: Bacterial additives, such as our Drs. Foster & Smith Live Nitrifying Bacteria help replenish beneficial bacterial populations. Simply add the correct amount to your aquarium while setting up a new system or on a regular basis after routine cleaning in established systems. Also, minimize the amount of beneficial bacteria removed from your aquarium with each cleaning. To do so, use Lee's Ultimate GravelVac Kit to clean aquarium gravel in sections with each water change instead of cleaning the entire substrate floor in one marathon session. Similarly, do not clean or replace all of your filter media at once or when performing water changes. Replace filter media in stages to allow biological and mechanical media to retain existing beneficial bacterial population.

PROBLEM
WHITE FUZZY CLUMPS ON AQUARIUM SUBSTRATE

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Overfeeding can often result in the accumulation of uneaten fish food. If excess food is not removed promptly, it can decay and encourage mold or fungus growth. The decaying food is soon covered in unsightly tufts of fuzzy fungus. While this growth may not directly harm aquarium fish, the presence of fungal growth is an indication of poor water quality. As a precaution, it is a good idea to measure water quality with a test kit and, if necessary, perform a partial water change to remove pollutants and improve water quality.

RECOMMENDED SOLUTION: Remove uneaten food and monitor feedings with automatic feeders. These programmable devices offer an easy and convenient way to prevent overfeeding. Automatic feeders reliably dispense appropriate amounts of fish foods whether you are home or away on vacation. Fill these feeders with a variety of flake or pellet food to ensure proper fish nutrition. Controlled feeding not only encourages healthy fish growth, but also plays an important role in maintaining water quality for the overall health of the aquarium.

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby greenlime100 » February 25th, 2015, 10:39 pm

^^Nice info there man, good read

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » March 3rd, 2015, 3:55 pm

Hey the oil kegs that you get from raj... how much gallons is that? I think I miss average bad... I finally got my new tank and I calculated my total tank and sump setup to be about 75 us gallons... so my old tank was about 30 gallons... so to my surprise almost all of my old water fit into my sump only....:-o ... I had 2 of the kegs with saltwater ready to go, 2 kegs of rodi water and I went and bought 2 more kegs of salt cuz for some stuoid reason I guessed the kegs were 5gallons each... after everything I lose bout 10 gallons of old water to the cleaning of the sand and live rocks etc... and now im bot even half way to the overflow in my new tank... have bout 15 inches of water to go again... novice first try of upgrade

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » March 3rd, 2015, 4:03 pm

Lmao... look how far I have to goo... sorry bout not taking pics in the sump set up I did a make shift filtration for the while qnd cycled the overflow back into the sump for the while just to keep stuff in check and parameters
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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » March 3rd, 2015, 7:04 pm

what are the measurements of your tank and the sump

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » March 3rd, 2015, 7:19 pm

Tank is 36x18x24high , sump is 36x12x18 high... max height in the sump is bout 16 though

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » March 3rd, 2015, 7:53 pm

kyhamil wrote:Tank is 36x18x24high , sump is 36x12x18 high... max height in the sump is bout 16 though



Tank works out to 67gal.
sump is 30gal.
You still have to deduct for displacement by sand and rocks. How much rocks you using.

You said the max height in sump is 16". Is this calculated after current goes and the water level in the overflow drains and fulls the sump?

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby kyhamil » March 3rd, 2015, 8:19 pm

Havent filled the main tank yet... I might cycle it before I hook up the return n sump line... and I have to check the level incase of a power outage

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Re: Trinituner Reefers, Saltwater Aquarium Fish Keepers

Postby HondaB20B » March 3rd, 2015, 8:44 pm

you shoulda do that first. Hell of ah mess if you wait till after the fact and then the sump overflows or you get leaks on lines. This is not a rush project. Hook up everything and put normal water in.
If you cycle the tank without the sump hooked up and running, when you do start to run that extra 30gal, there might be the possibility that you can get another mini cycle which just pushes you back. remember its extra water and rocks

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