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any 120Hz or 240Hz TV should work.pyromaniax wrote:I'm looking around for a LED Smart TV 40-46", looking for one that wouldn't produce much motion BLUR, will be used more for heavy gaming rather than watching movies. Don't really want to spend more than $6000 any recommendations around that price range?
can't beat the price, but not sure how fast it is - Might be better of with the Fire TV box or a Roku 3dredman1 wrote:Didn't see it posted before - Amazon Fire TV Stick, just $19 for Prime members for a limited time.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG/ref ... _i=desktop
What you guys think? Worth getting it at that price for someone who isn't a Prime member to use for Netflix, Crackle, PBS, Vevo, etc?
Pros/Cons?
Aimar wrote:Hey Anton How is the Jamo's doing?
could be a number of reasons, but it could be because the TV does not have the ability to properly decode the audio from a HD video but the more powerful processors in the laptop can.searchingone wrote:Question:
I have a 55" LED Samsung TV (non-smart). When I run a movie from a USB drive directly into the USB port, the video is CRISP (just like those previews you see at price smart etc) but the audio is poor. However, if I run those same movies through a laptop via HDMI, the video quality isn't as crisp but the audio is significantly better. Why is this? It's so convenient to just plug in a USB drive and watch..
seems to be Samsung LED H Series, with the flagship being the H8000Morpheus wrote:Quick question. What is the latest series of Samsung LED Smartvs?
Like how Vizio's latest is the Mseries
http://www.cnet.com/topics/tvs/best-tvs/led-lcd/Morpheus wrote:Thanks man. Looking to get a one soon. Want an up to date one.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:could be a number of reasons, but it could be because the TV does not have the ability to properly decode the audio from a HD video but the more powerful processors in the laptop can.searchingone wrote:Question:
I have a 55" LED Samsung TV (non-smart). When I run a movie from a USB drive directly into the USB port, the video is CRISP (just like those previews you see at price smart etc) but the audio is poor. However, if I run those same movies through a laptop via HDMI, the video quality isn't as crisp but the audio is significantly better. Why is this? It's so convenient to just plug in a USB drive and watch..
There are a number of factors to consider. What is the format of the video? MKV, MOV, AVI, WMV? What compression? what audio codec?
HD video with HD audio will be 1080p with a HD audio format such as Dolby TrueHD or dtsHD MA. More than likely a TV will not be able to decode the massive bandwidth of this audio properly so you will get a thinned down stereo version as best as the small processor in the TV can manage with it.
The sound card in the laptop however may be able to handle it or convert that audio to a better sounding stereo signal. Since the laptop is doing the sound processing, it means the TV processors aren't needed so it's more of a pass-through to the TV speakers and so it sounds better.
The poorer video could be a similar issue where the TV video processors are better than the video card in the laptop.
This is why it is best to use a HD audio/video receiver (AVR) that has the processing power to handle both the audio and video. It also helps to have a good media player like an OPPO that can handle the files required to get perfect quality.
Instead of plugging the USB stick with MKV files into my Samsung TV, I plug it into a Roku 3 connected to a Pioneer AVR and it plays with HD video and HD audio perfectly.
Morpheus wrote:Thanks man. Looking to get a one soon. Want an up to date one.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:http://www.cnet.com/topics/tvs/best-tvs/led-lcd/Morpheus wrote:Thanks man. Looking to get a one soon. Want an up to date one.
you might be surprised what is topping the charts right now
an AVR is the center of any home theater setupsearchingone wrote:Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:could be a number of reasons, but it could be because the TV does not have the ability to properly decode the audio from a HD video but the more powerful processors in the laptop can.searchingone wrote:Question:
I have a 55" LED Samsung TV (non-smart). When I run a movie from a USB drive directly into the USB port, the video is CRISP (just like those previews you see at price smart etc) but the audio is poor. However, if I run those same movies through a laptop via HDMI, the video quality isn't as crisp but the audio is significantly better. Why is this? It's so convenient to just plug in a USB drive and watch..
There are a number of factors to consider. What is the format of the video? MKV, MOV, AVI, WMV? What compression? what audio codec?
HD video with HD audio will be 1080p with a HD audio format such as Dolby TrueHD or dtsHD MA. More than likely a TV will not be able to decode the massive bandwidth of this audio properly so you will get a thinned down stereo version as best as the small processor in the TV can manage with it.
The sound card in the laptop however may be able to handle it or convert that audio to a better sounding stereo signal. Since the laptop is doing the sound processing, it means the TV processors aren't needed so it's more of a pass-through to the TV speakers and so it sounds better.
The poorer video could be a similar issue where the TV video processors are better than the video card in the laptop.
This is why it is best to use a HD audio/video receiver (AVR) that has the processing power to handle both the audio and video. It also helps to have a good media player like an OPPO that can handle the files required to get perfect quality.
Instead of plugging the USB stick with MKV files into my Samsung TV, I plug it into a Roku 3 connected to a Pioneer AVR and it plays with HD video and HD audio perfectly.
Some are mkv and some are mp4. The bit rate of the audio in some of the videos ~93kbps with 2 channel stereo audio.....so I think you hit the nail on the head. Thanks.
Never even heard of an AVR. Will look into it. I do plan to get a Roku 3. Just waiting on Black Friday for any deals on it.
I take it by "re-wire" you mean there is existing conduit and you are pulling out all the wires and replacing with proper wires according to code? Otherwise if you are now wiring the house there are a million things you can do.Kenjo wrote:I have to rewire and entire house. Could anyone make suggestions as to any technology to add to my electrical system such as if there are newer breakers that also add voltage/ surge protection one time, versus the usual stand alone surge protectors. Dimmers for lights or any other recommendations would be cool
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:I take it by "re-wire" you mean there is existing conduit and you are pulling out all the wires and replacing with proper wires according to code? Otherwise if you are now wiring the house there are a million things you can do.Kenjo wrote:I have to rewire and entire house. Could anyone make suggestions as to any technology to add to my electrical system such as if there are newer breakers that also add voltage/ surge protection one time, versus the usual stand alone surge protectors. Dimmers for lights or any other recommendations would be cool
check out Control4.com for home automation, though there are many new wifi based systems coming out now.
of course you should try to run cabling for networking, POE security cameras and your alarm system. Also try running isolators for AC units.
There are whole-house surge suppressors and voltage regulators - your electrician will know what you can use based on what you have in your panel.
Most modern home automation dimmers are wireless and either run on RF or wifi and don't require additional wiring. Quirky has some interesting stuff coming out that works with your smartphone https://www.quirky.com/shop/quirky-ge
Belkin WeMo are also cool. http://www.belkin.com/us/Products/home- ... utomation/
I personally used Lutron IR and RF dimmers and switches in my home
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pa ... rview.aspx
As they work with Logitech smart remotes too.
if you want to use these new smart switches etc, you would want to add more 4x2 cans, one for each switch. IN T&T we tend to put up to 3 switches in one 4x2 can, but in the US they put one switch per can, so if you want to use those switches you will need to break the wall and add a can for each switch.
Morpheus wrote:Sweet!
Won't mind getting back a lil vintage reciever at all nah
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