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*$kїđž!™ wrote:Rory Phoulorie wrote:footing, columns and ground beams all to be done with ready-mix.
Request the ready-mix concrete supplier to prepare a set of four test specimens (cube or cylinder, depending on what is specified) for you to test at an independent testing agency (CARIRI, Geotech, Trintoplan, UWI, etc.). One specimen should be tested at 7 days (this test should yield at least 60% of the specified 28 day compressive strength), two specimens tested at 28 days and one specimen kept as a spare. Please ensure that you know what strength (cube strength or cylinder strength) you need for your concrete.
I know u mean well and this is prob the way to go....but srsly...do u think anyone actually does this?
ibanez wrote:Can the footing and column be poured at the same time?
It's a 3 ft column from the footing up towards the ground beam!
pete wrote:What if the sample they give you fails the 7 day or 28 day test, will the concrete supplier be liable for replacing all that had been poured as well as the labour to remove it?
Rory Phoulorie wrote:*$kїđž!™ wrote:Rory Phoulorie wrote:footing, columns and ground beams all to be done with ready-mix.
Request the ready-mix concrete supplier to prepare a set of four test specimens (cube or cylinder, depending on what is specified) for you to test at an independent testing agency (CARIRI, Geotech, Trintoplan, UWI, etc.). One specimen should be tested at 7 days (this test should yield at least 60% of the specified 28 day compressive strength), two specimens tested at 28 days and one specimen kept as a spare. Please ensure that you know what strength (cube strength or cylinder strength) you need for your concrete.
I know u mean well and this is prob the way to go....but srsly...do u think anyone actually does this?
Yes, people do actually test the compressive strength of the concrete. When you compare the thousands of dollars that you spend on a truckload of concrete to the hundreds of dollars that you spend to test the concrete, you realise it is a very worthwhile investment.
One thing I forgot to add to that list of things to be aware of in my previous post is that the OP should invest in a good quality concrete vibrator (locally known as a concrete poker).
He/she should not use reinforcing steel rods to "poke" the concrete in order to remove air voids from it. He/she should also not use the concrete vibrator to move the concrete in the forms/excavations. He/she should not allow the concrete to drop over a height greater than 1.5m (5ft). He/she should use chutes or tremie pipes to place the concrete in the desired location.
After the concrete has been placed and finished in the desired location, a sheet of polythene should be placed over the concrete to prevent rapid evaporation of water from the concrete (rapid water loss can lead to shrinkage cracks in the concrete). He/she should try and keep the concrete wet for at least three days after the concrete has been placed.
rfari wrote:Rory, any reviews on kalcrete wrt mix quality?
ibanez wrote:. . . .Foundation blocks next!
r3iXmann wrote:crazybalhead wrote:*$kїđž!™ wrote:ECIGTT wrote:Yes contact Elvis, he is best in construction. I had another contractor that built my house, i had a foundation crack that caused my house to shift. The foundation split in half, Elvis did a great job in saving my house by doing some major foundation repairs. He is also reasonable and yes Rahtid is his tuner name.
heard elvis tell this story.....
Interesting.
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1uhh
Rahtid wrote:cyah plz everybody tho,
ibanez wrote:The dirt is clayey soil, but really 'firm'! Will be adding 'sand dirt' or 'overburden' to complete the back-filling process!
Can someone explain what exactly is 'overburden', is a layer of red sand required on top of either?
Thanks
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