Water pump

[alfa]

A clogged port will prevent the pump from seeing pressure to cut off. However it's a normally closed switch so supposed to come on regardless

[Skillys]

Save yourself some stress and buy a goulds waterpump it’s the best.

[Strugglerzinc]

A clogged port will prevent the pump from seeing pressure to cut off. However it's a normally closed switch so supposed to come on regardless

You would think so, but the same rust that prevents pressure from getting to the switch mechanism also traps the pressure in there after it slowly seeps in and presto, empty pressure tank and that mofo still not turning on for 20 mins.

[goalpost]

Hi Tuners, I have a Pentax CA200/00 2hp. It recently started to intermittently fail to power on.

Each time I'd open the pressure switch to see it making contact yet the motor is not turning. I would then flip the contacts opening the circuit & it would then close the circuit and power on the motor.

I replaced the pressure switch & set it to a 50 / 70 cut in / cut out pressure... As how it was set up before & worked great but now still get the problem of motor not turning with pressure switch contacts being in closed position.

Advise greatly appreciated

Anyone knows if this issue was resolved? Currently experiencing the same thing.

[INDAVID WORKSHOP]

Guys,

The issue with the motor is either burnt windings or the capacitor failure (cheaper to try replacing the capacitor).

[Jerry84]

So my pressure tank is accumulating water in it, causing the pump to come on for a shorter period of time/cycle. I changed this pressure tank in November of 2024. I realized that there is a plate to the bottom of the tank and the plumber indicated that the bladder could be changed. Pressure tank is rated at 24L

My questios are as follows:

1. Are replacement bladders readily available?
2. Where can I get it?
3.. Average cost?

Looking to see how feasible it is to repair. Thanks

[pugboy]

you have to find a seller of the bladder for your particular tank, find out who the sellers of that brand pressure tank
eg water source, peakes

if that tank only last 3 months something ain’t right

So my pressure tank is accumulating water in it, causing the pump to come on for a shorter period of time/cycle. I changed this pressure tank in November of 2024. I realized that there is a plate to the bottom of the tank and the plumber indicated that the bladder could be changed. Pressure tank is rated at 24L

My questios are as follows:

1. Are replacement bladders readily available?
2. Where can I get it?
3.. Average cost?

Looking to see how feasible it is to repair. Thanks

[VexXx Dogg]

Haitun or wa?
It’s popular but dunno how good it is

[richiepooh]

Call me 268 4275

[Jerry84]

Haitun or wa?
It’s popular but dunno how good it is

That name familiar...it's grey in color

[timelapse]

I recently bought a Total 3/4 HP as a trial of sorts.Two weeks and no complaints

[Skillys]

I recently bought a Total 3/4 HP as a trial of sorts.Two weeks and no complaints

Good luck, nothing better than goulds.

[pugboy]

those chinese pumps are peripheral pumps
good for rapid high pressure but lower volume moved
you can see by the small size of impeller housing

put plenty volume demands and then the delivery performance will be noticeable.
catch with them is they usually work with smartheads which are hit and miss

I recently bought a Total 3/4 HP as a trial of sorts.Two weeks and no complaints

Good luck, nothing better than goulds.

[Jerry84]

So my pressure tank is accumulating water in it, causing the pump to come on for a shorter period of time/cycle. I changed this pressure tank in November of 2024. I realized that there is a plate to the bottom of the tank and the plumber indicated that the bladder could be changed. Pressure tank is rated at 24L

My questios are as follows:

1. Are replacement bladders readily available?
2. Where can I get it?
3.. Average cost?

Looking to see how feasible it is to repair. Thanks

So the brand is Haitun.
Who is the local dealer for this brand?

[team 394]

https://www.southernwholesalestores.com ... -tank.html

[Jerry84]

Advice needed:

So my tank stand has a 2 1000 gallon tank at the base and a 400 at the upper level. We tend to use the 400 gallon as our main supply as we get water via gravity feed whenever we want and on hot days the water is warm at night not to use the hot water reserves. Therefore less current is being used for the water pump constantly coming on as well as power for water heater

My hurdle is I must pump the water up to the upper tank manually ie a secondary pump. I am ok with having a secondary pump but is there I way I can install it so that it automatically comes on when water from the main is detected, pumps the water to the tank and automatically cuts off?

Any advice welcomed.

[pugboy]

a pump uses around $20-30 $40 if heavy usage
you could rig up some kind of float switch to do a transfer but it would end up using current to keep having to replenish the 400 as it’s water level drops down.

i have an installation where the wasa pressure is very low, so low it barely reaches up to a 1000 tank height
i let it fill a blue barrel with a float switch which fires up a small total pump which moves the barrel water up to the 1000gal

Advice needed:

So my tank stand has a 2 1000 gallon tank at the base and a 400 at the upper level. We tend to use the 400 gallon as our main supply as we get water via gravity feed whenever we want and on hot days the water is warm at night not to use the hot water reserves. Therefore less current is being used for the water pump constantly coming on as well as power for water heater

My hurdle is I must pump the water up to the upper tank manually ie a secondary pump. I am ok with having a secondary pump but is there I way I can install it so that it automatically comes on when water from the main is detected, pumps the water to the tank and automatically cuts off?

Any advice welcomed.

[alfa]

Also pumping directly from the WASA line is illegal

[Jerry84]

Also pumping directly from the WASA line is illegal

Oh...well I guess I'll have to go back to the drawing board. Thanks man

[VexXx Dogg]

Advice needed:

So my tank stand has a 2 1000 gallon tank at the base and a 400 at the upper level. We tend to use the 400 gallon as our main supply as we get water via gravity feed whenever we want and on hot days the water is warm at night not to use the hot water reserves. Therefore less current is being used for the water pump constantly coming on as well as power for water heater

My hurdle is I must pump the water up to the upper tank manually ie a secondary pump. I am ok with having a secondary pump but is there I way I can install it so that it automatically comes on when water from the main is detected, pumps the water to the tank and automatically cuts off?

Any advice welcomed.

Run a cheap peripheral pump that pulls from ground floor 1000g tank. No pressure switch or smart head on this unit.

Control it via a float switch wired to cut off when the 400g full. Those tuff float switches can be wired both ways, and it’s like 150.


The downside is that if the 1000g empty the pump will still run if the 400g not full. Not sure if you can wire a separate float switch on the 1000g tank to cater for this scenario, as you will potentially have one pump controlled with two float switches. Should be possible in theory but let a proper electrician guide you there.

With this setup the peripheral pump will run constantly if the 400g isn’t full, or there is constant demand like a pipe burst or something.

Not an optimal setup but maybe you can just power this off during the day and leave it active at night.

[pugboy]

buy the peripheral pump with a smarthead
the smarthead will do the work of cutting off when the 400gal is full and also protects if the 1000gal runs dry

Advice needed:

So my tank stand has a 2 1000 gallon tank at the base and a 400 at the upper level. We tend to use the 400 gallon as our main supply as we get water via gravity feed whenever we want and on hot days the water is warm at night not to use the hot water reserves. Therefore less current is being used for the water pump constantly coming on as well as power for water heater

My hurdle is I must pump the water up to the upper tank manually ie a secondary pump. I am ok with having a secondary pump but is there I way I can install it so that it automatically comes on when water from the main is detected, pumps the water to the tank and automatically cuts off?

Any advice welcomed.

Run a cheap peripheral pump that pulls from ground floor 1000g tank. No pressure switch or smart head on this unit.

Control it via a float switch wired to cut off when the 400g full. Those tuff float switches can be wired both ways, and it’s like 150.


The downside is that if the 1000g empty the pump will still run if the 400g not full. Not sure if you can wire a separate float switch on the 1000g tank to cater for this scenario, as you will potentially have one pump controlled with two float switches. Should be possible in theory but let a proper electrician guide you there.

With this setup the peripheral pump will run constantly if the 400g isn’t full, or there is constant demand like a pipe burst or something.

Not an optimal setup but maybe you can just power this off during the day and leave it active at night.

[pugboy]

but you may run into a problem if the small pump is coming on and there is water in the line up to the 400gal and struggle to pump against they head of water to start

[Jerry84]

But out of curiosity, is there a way for the secondary/peripheral pump to come on /off based on water in the main line? So automatically when water is detected, pump comes on to pump from the 1000 gallon which in turn is being replenished from the main line?

[pugboy]

if you are willing to rig up a pump to transfer water from one tank to the next then why not just let the pump supply the house
it’s the same current being used

[Jerry84]

if you are willing to rig up a pump to transfer water from one tank to the next then why not just let the pump supply the house
it’s the same current being used

So my area normally has low pressures, but most times the 2 1000 gallons at the base receives the minimal line pressure to be filled. I'm actually trying to not be dependant on the pump for everyday supply instead, using the supply from the 400 for everyday use. The pump will only be used to fill the 400 when water is in the line. Only then would the pump be in operation.
My issue is having the pump come on automatically when water is detected in the main line. Water in the main line will be filling the tanks at the base but currently I have to manually pump water to the 400 gallon.

My objective is some what of an automated system. Basically for the pump to come on when water is detected in the line and/or when the top tank runs low and to cut off when the top tank is full.

Not sure how possible my goals are. I'm just thinking about an installation that works to my advantage where I don't have to physically be turning on a pump to transfer the water and at the same time eliminating the use of a water pump supplying the house.

Like I stated previously the top tank supplies the house and all our fixtures excellently via gravity feed so I'm looking to capitalize on that.

[Jerry84]

I should also mention that the bottom tanks are used to clean and supply a small area containing some livestock without the use of a pump, so this will remain like this hopefully.

[matix]

if you are willing to rig up a pump to transfer water from one tank to the next then why not just let the pump supply the house
it’s the same current being used

So my area normally has low pressures, but most times the 2 1000 gallons at the base receives the minimal line pressure to be filled. I'm actually trying to not be dependant on the pump for everyday supply instead, using the supply from the 400 for everyday use. The pump will only be used to fill the 400 when water is in the line. Only then would the pump be in operation.
My issue is having the pump come on automatically when water is detected in the main line. Water in the main line will be filling the tanks at the base but currently I have to manually pump water to the 400 gallon.

My objective is some what of an automated system. Basically for the pump to come on when water is detected in the line and/or when the top tank runs low and to cut off when the top tank is full.

Not sure how possible my goals are. I'm just thinking about an installation that works to my advantage where I don't have to physically be turning on a pump to transfer the water and at the same time eliminating the use of a water pump supplying the house.

Like I stated previously the top tank supplies the house and all our fixtures excellently via gravity feed so I'm looking to capitalize on that.

I understand what you want. Basically once you have a pump to feed the 400 gallon tank from the 1000 gallon tanks, it will still work all the time. If you install a float on the 400 gallon tank, once water is used from that the pump will come on to replenish what’s used.

[pugboy]

correct, using a float/switch activated method will have it running each time the level drops and the stem valve in the 400 is free and the float switch in the 1000 allows it to come on and replenish.
A method like described here will keep the 400 full all the time once the 1000 can supply and will run the pump very often
which is what I have with wasa filling a blue barrel which then sends water to a 1000gal which wasa cant supply enough pressure to reach that height.

Your other option is to simply use a timer to have the pump come on periodically, eg have it on for an hour at a time a few times a day. Hydroponic places sell timers which they use for this to feed nutrients.
Ideally you should buy the pump with a smarthead as it provides dry run protection.

[Jerry84]

if you are willing to rig up a pump to transfer water from one tank to the next then why not just let the pump supply the house
it’s the same current being used

So my area normally has low pressures, but most times the 2 1000 gallons at the base receives the minimal line pressure to be filled. I'm actually trying to not be dependant on the pump for everyday supply instead, using the supply from the 400 for everyday use. The pump will only be used to fill the 400 when water is in the line. Only then would the pump be in operation.
My issue is having the pump come on automatically when water is detected in the main line. Water in the main line will be filling the tanks at the base but currently I have to manually pump water to the 400 gallon.

My objective is some what of an automated system. Basically for the pump to come on when water is detected in the line and/or when the top tank runs low and to cut off when the top tank is full.

Not sure how possible my goals are. I'm just thinking about an installation that works to my advantage where I don't have to physically be turning on a pump to transfer the water and at the same time eliminating the use of a water pump supplying the house.

Like I stated previously the top tank supplies the house and all our fixtures excellently via gravity feed so I'm looking to capitalize on that.

I understand what you want. Basically once you have a pump to feed the 400 gallon tank from the 1000 gallon tanks, it will still work all the time. If you install a float on the 400 gallon tank, once water is used from that the pump will come on to replenish what’s used.

I need the pump to come on only when there is water in the main line. It will automatically shut off via the float switch when the 400 is filled.

[Jerry84]

correct, using a float/switch activated method will have it running each time the level drops and the stem valve in the 400 is free and the float switch in the 1000 allows it to come on and replenish.
A method like described here will keep the 400 full all the time once the 1000 can supply and will run the pump very often
which is what I have with wasa filling a blue barrel which then sends water to a 1000gal which wasa cant supply enough pressure to reach that height.

Your other option is to simply use a timer to have the pump come on periodically, eg have it on for an hour at a time a few times a day. Hydroponic places sell timers which they use for this to feed nutrients.
Ideally you should buy the pump with a smarthead as it provides dry run protection.

I appreciate the advise. The timer may be a solution. Smarthead is the pump of choice.