Building a house in Trinidad

[AlphaMan]

Does having plenty plants and trees facilitate termite infestation inside the home?

[pugboy]

not necessarily
subterranean termites don’t eat trees so much
they like solid wood material
the big nests you see on trees are usually not subterranean termites but the kind with big tracks and live above ground so easier to get rid of

[theview868]

Hey tuners any advice in size and specs for a tank stand on my property.
Have a location and currently have one tank at the moment which is 600gal.
Current location is near the bound of the lot near the cesspit.

Thinking of repositioning it as I was working on construction of my home. Currently it is located to from as it was accessible to the main water line.
Water is connected to the home but only via wasa supply. Water source at my home is good but I preparing for next year.

Thanks advance for the advice

[adnj]

Hey tuners any advice in size and specs for a tank stand on my property.
Have a location and currently have one tank at the moment which is 600gal.
Current location is near the bound of the lot near the cesspit.

Thinking of repositioning it as I was working on construction of my home. Currently it is located to from as it was accessible to the main water line.
Water is connected to the home but only via wasa supply. Water source at my home is good but I preparing for next year.

Thanks advance for the advice

A base of 8'×8' for a single 1000 gal tank is a fairly workable minimum size for the base. Add six feet to the width (8'×14', etc.) for each additional tank.

If you plan on raising the pad to house the pump under the tanks, expect a pad height of 8' to 10' to allow for clearances and usable head space.

Use Trinidad & Tobago Bureau of Standards TTS 599:2006, Guide to the Design and Construction of Small Buildings, for the specifics on the structure itself. IIRC, there is an example of a plan for a tank stand in the standard.

There are also WASA requirements on the minimum allowable distances between potable water supply lines, waste lines, septic tanks, and soak aways, that you will want to be aware of before deciding on a final location.

[theview868]

Hey tuners any advice in size and specs for a tank stand on my property.
Have a location and currently have one tank at the moment which is 600gal.
Current location is near the bound of the lot near the cesspit.

Thinking of repositioning it as I was working on construction of my home. Currently it is located to from as it was accessible to the main water line.
Water is connected to the home but only via wasa supply. Water source at my home is good but I preparing for next year.

Thanks advance for the advice

A base of 8'×8' for a single 1000 gal tank is a fairly workable minimum size for the base. Add six feet to the width (8'×14', etc.) for each additional tank.

If you plan on raising the pad to house the pump under the tanks, expect a pad height of 8' to 10' to allow for clearances and usable head space.

Use Trinidad & Tobago Bureau of Standards TTS 599:2006, Guide to the Design and Construction of Small Buildings, for the specifics on the structure itself. IIRC, there is an example of a plan for a tank stand in the standard.

There are also WASA requirements on the minimum allowable distances between potable water supply lines, waste lines, septic tanks, and soak aways, that you will want to be aware of before deciding on a final location.

Wow thanks man I didn't know and yea I going Tru town n country as well regional to get my place passed so I will try n get the specs for it

[adnj]

Hey tuners any advice in size and specs for a tank stand on my property.
Have a location and currently have one tank at the moment which is 600gal.
Current location is near the bound of the lot near the cesspit.

Thinking of repositioning it as I was working on construction of my home. Currently it is located to from as it was accessible to the main water line.
Water is connected to the home but only via wasa supply. Water source at my home is good but I preparing for next year.

Thanks advance for the advice

A base of 8'×8' for a single 1000 gal tank is a fairly workable minimum size for the base. Add six feet to the width (8'×14', etc.) for each additional tank.

If you plan on raising the pad to house the pump under the tanks, expect a pad height of 8' to 10' to allow for clearances and usable head space.

Use Trinidad & Tobago Bureau of Standards TTS 599:2006, Guide to the Design and Construction of Small Buildings, for the specifics on the structure itself. IIRC, there is an example of a plan for a tank stand in the standard.

There are also WASA requirements on the minimum allowable distances between potable water supply lines, waste lines, septic tanks, and soak aways, that you will want to be aware of before deciding on a final location.

Wow thanks man I didn't know and yea I going Tru town n country as well regional to get my place passed so I will try n get the specs for it

Your LSC (plumber) must be the one to apply for WASA approvals, but until then, here are some of the offset requirements for your plumbing ...

[Nexus]

Hey guys,

Is there a calculator or guidelines for determining the amount of cement and sand I will need to lay some red blocks?

It’s an area 28 (one side) by 11 (2 sides) by 9 height. This works up to 540 sf or 675 red blocks (I think if I buy two pallets I can get away since I have to take out for two doors and 3 windows).

But I not sure how to work out the amount of cement I will need.

Appreciate any help, thanks

[matix]

Hey guys,

Is there a calculator or guidelines for determining the amount of cement and sand I will need to lay some red blocks?

It’s an area 28 (one side) by 11 (2 sides) by 9 height. This works up to 540 sf or 675 red blocks (I think if I buy two pallets I can get away since I have to take out for two doors and 3 windows).

But I not sure how to work out the amount of cement I will need.

Appreciate any help, thanks

Plastering as well? It all depends on who is laying the blocks for you, their skill level, the quality of blocks you purchase.

[Nexus]

Hey guys,

Is there a calculator or guidelines for determining the amount of cement and sand I will need to lay some red blocks?

It’s an area 28 (one side) by 11 (2 sides) by 9 height. This works up to 540 sf or 675 red blocks (I think if I buy two pallets I can get away since I have to take out for two doors and 3 windows).

But I not sure how to work out the amount of cement I will need.

Appreciate any help, thanks

Plastering as well? It all depends on who is laying the blocks for you, their skill level, the quality of blocks you purchase.

Yes plastering as well. I would say a skilled labourer for the plastering and using regular 4” clay block.

I haven’t called in a builder yet cause I wanted to work out a rough budget before.

[matix]

Hey guys,

Is there a calculator or guidelines for determining the amount of cement and sand I will need to lay some red blocks?

It’s an area 28 (one side) by 11 (2 sides) by 9 height. This works up to 540 sf or 675 red blocks (I think if I buy two pallets I can get away since I have to take out for two doors and 3 windows).

But I not sure how to work out the amount of cement I will need.

Appreciate any help, thanks

Plastering as well? It all depends on who is laying the blocks for you, their skill level, the quality of blocks you purchase.

Yes plastering as well. I would say a skilled labourer for the plastering and using regular 4” clay block.

I haven’t called in a builder yet cause I wanted to work out a rough budget before.

Call the builder, you have to consider ring beams, lintels, steel, boxing board, straight edge, nails.

[adnj]

You need about 5.5 cu ft of mortar for every 100 blocks with 3/8 - 1/2" joints.

[worksux101]

Concrete, steel structure with brick walls or Steel-framed (such as AP Scott) - persons with experience in multiple, which would you recommend and why? How do they compare with cost in particular (2 storey house)

[VexXx Dogg]

Concrete, steel structure with brick walls or Steel-framed (such as AP Scott) - persons with experience in multiple, which would you recommend and why? How do they compare with cost in particular (2 storey house)

I called them in 2022 and it’s more expensive per sq ft than traditional construction. They said the time to construct is the main advantage.

[matix]

Concrete, steel structure with brick walls or Steel-framed (such as AP Scott) - persons with experience in multiple, which would you recommend and why? How do they compare with cost in particular (2 storey house)

Concrete cheaper, more time to do, won’t really get open concept if looking for that.


Steel 1.75 times cost of concrete, much faster build time, long term issues.

Concrete and steel mix - solid foundation, ground level will be steel structure, top floor will be blocks. Open concept can be stained with structural steel beams. 1.3 times cost of concrete.

[*KRONIK*]

Concrete, steel structure with brick walls or Steel-framed (such as AP Scott) - persons with experience in multiple, which would you recommend and why? How do they compare with cost in particular (2 storey house)

I called them in 2022 and it’s more expensive per sq ft than traditional construction. They said the time to construct is the main advantage.

Agreed

I also looked into this and the maths wasnt mathsing at all

Plus you only gettin the outside shell
You still have to do the whole inside

If you need it fast, then yes

But consider you still have to prepare a base/foundation for it

[pugboy]

from builders i have spoken to they all said the same thing

[dtopshottas]

Hey all,
Any tips for paints underside of a decking pan? Persons say just paint it with flat black some say etch and add any enamel paint on it. Don't want to waste resources

[Jerry84]

Hey all,
Any tips for paints underside of a decking pan? Persons say just paint it with flat black some say etch and add any enamel paint on it. Don't want to waste resources

I was enquiring about the same thing some time ago. Advise given was to use a paint called DTM (direct to metal) as no priming, etching would be required. Of course it's more costly than regular oil paint. Better to spray on than paint on.

I was told that using regular oil based paint on the decking pan without using etching primer would result in peeling/flaking in the near future. But I could be wrong as experienced guys out there may know better.

[Strugglerzinc]

Hey all,
Any tips for paints underside of a decking pan? Persons say just paint it with flat black some say etch and add any enamel paint on it. Don't want to waste resources

I was enquiring about the same thing some time ago. Advise given was to use a paint called DTM (direct to metal) as no priming, etching would be required. Of course it's more costly than regular oil paint. Better to spray on than paint on.

I was told that using regular oil based paint on the decking pan without using etching primer would result in peeling/flaking in the near future. But I could be wrong as experienced guys out there may know better.

Deck pan will need etching (etch primer) first as regular paint will peel from a galvanized surface eventually. A paint with built in etch capability as mentioned above will work as well.

[Jerry84]

Hey all,
Any tips for paints underside of a decking pan? Persons say just paint it with flat black some say etch and add any enamel paint on it. Don't want to waste resources

I was enquiring about the same thing some time ago. Advise given was to use a paint called DTM (direct to metal) as no priming, etching would be required. Of course it's more costly than regular oil paint. Better to spray on than paint on.

I was told that using regular oil based paint on the decking pan without using etching primer would result in peeling/flaking in the near future. But I could be wrong as experienced guys out there may know better.

Deck pan will need etching (etch primer) first as regular paint will peel from a galvanized surface eventually. A paint with built in etch capability as mentioned above will work as well.

Is this the same DTM paint I mentioned??

[Strugglerzinc]

Hey all,
Any tips for paints underside of a decking pan? Persons say just paint it with flat black some say etch and add any enamel paint on it. Don't want to waste resources

I was enquiring about the same thing some time ago. Advise given was to use a paint called DTM (direct to metal) as no priming, etching would be required. Of course it's more costly than regular oil paint. Better to spray on than paint on.

I was told that using regular oil based paint on the decking pan without using etching primer would result in peeling/flaking in the near future. But I could be wrong as experienced guys out there may know better.

Deck pan will need etching (etch primer) first as regular paint will peel from a galvanized surface eventually. A paint with built in etch capability as mentioned above will work as well.

Is this the same DTM paint I mentioned??

You would need to check the specific brand. DTM may not mean it can specifically etch the metal surface. A galvanized surface needs etching before paint unless it is an old weathered surface.

[sekhar_777]

A newbie question but would appreciate some guidance. A general contractor who inspected my home constructed 6 years ago by another contractor, informed me that there are no roof tie-ins between the garage front pillars and roof. What exactly would this look like. Is it the highlighted?

[VexXx Dogg]

Who did the original work and who inspecting?

Right now it have scammers on top of scammers operating as cUntractors.

[pugboy]

post question on fb trinidad used construction materials
you will get plenty answers there

[maj. tom]

ask Bilda Boyz Construction on fb.

[pugboy]

boy that fb group had real bacchanal with that
real airing of dirty laundry

but you will get a lot of good answers there also

ask Bilda Boyz Construction on fb.

[maj. tom]

This post get meh. Other contractor quote $90k and he did it for $18k. Nice quotation template.
He self promote his channel of course, but I watching his stuff for a while and he seems to know what he doing and he seems honest and professional. I wonder if he is a civil engineer because he does quote some rel knowledge and experience.

https://www.facebook.com/BildaBoyzConstructionServicesLtd/posts/pfbid02qed9LFdHPC4cicKXRFUEz1SBRU5mmMugkhftL6wX2X7U8ENwKVhfXr8NtoMT27aHl

[pugboy]

that link working?

This post get meh. Other contractor quote $90k and he did it for $18k. Nice quotation template.
He self promote his channel of course, but I watching his stuff for a while and he seems to know what he doing and he seems honest and professional. I wonder if he is a civil engineer because he does quote some rel knowledge and experience.

https://www.facebook.com/BildaBoyzConstructionServicesLtd/posts/pfbid02qed9LFdHPC4cicKXRFUEz1SBRU5mmMugkhftL6wX2X7U8ENwKVhfXr8NtoMT27aHl

[adnj]

[quote="sekhar_777"]Screenshot 2024-01-18 063958.pngScreenshot 2024-01-18 064657.pngA newbie question but would appreciate some guidance. A general contractor who inspected my home constructed 6 years ago by another contractor, informed me that there are no roof tie-ins between the garage front pillars and roof. What exactly would this look like. Is it the highlighted?[/quote]

Your arrows point to the exposed reinforcing bar of the two columns. So, yes. You highlighted it.

Local code requires that the rafters be fixed to the ring beam (also called a roof beam in some countries).

The jack rafter supports (on the corners) look as if they were either cast in with the beam or were bolted to the beam. They also appear to be outside of the RC cage. Because of the roof configuration (about 25 ft wide, half-pyramid hip) wind resistance should not be a problem.

If you want to be extra safe, place a U-shaped piece of rebar over the jack rafters and weld them to the exposed column rebar to prevent possible lift in case of a hurricane.

[quote][img]https://i.imgur.com/gSMa3uW.png[/img]

The rafters shall be securely fixed to the ring beam at the top of the walls on a wall plate and to the ridge board at the crown of the roof.[/quote]

[sekhar_777]

Your arrows point to the exposed reinforcing bar of the two columns. So, yes. You highlighted it.

Local code requires that the rafters be fixed to the ring beam (also called a roof beam in some countries).

The jack rafter supports (on the corners) look as if they were either cast in with the beam or were bolted to the beam. They also appear to be outside of the RC cage. Because of the roof configuration (about 25 ft wide, half-pyramid hip) wind resistance should not be a problem.

If you want to be extra safe, place a U-shaped piece of rebar over the jack rafters and weld them to the exposed column rebar to prevent possible lift in case of a hurricane.

The rafters shall be securely fixed to the ring beam at the top of the walls on a wall plate and to the ridge board at the crown of the roof.

Thank you very much for your detailed response.